R11GS Problems

[wespatterson]

I've got a '95 R11GS with ~31K miles on it. Since I bought it this past spring I've put 7K miles on it. Now it is developing lots of little bothersome gremlins. Maybe someone out there can comment on a few of these problems.

1. When the gas tank is removed, it doesn't want to go back to the original position where the bolt can be put back in. I have to use a wratchet strap to pull it back into position. It appears that the fairing pieces in the front are prohibiting the tank from going forward enough.
   
2. I've been noticing a lot of engine ping when really hammering down on the throttle. So I used some Sea Foam yesterday with a refill of 93 octane gas. Now the fuel sensor on the RID doesn't seem to be moving and I still have the engine knock.
   
3. Went on a group ride yesterday and was told that my brake light was always on. I found that the front brake lever was not returning to the fully out position leaving the brake light switch on. I tried some WD40 on the hinge point but this did not help. I have to remember to push the front brake lever back out.
   
4. Finally, my gear position-neutral switch seems to be going out as the position on the RID is all over the place while riding. This seems to be a very difficult replacement. Anything I can easily check before pulling the swing arm?

Any suggestions to all or any of the above will be greatly appreciated. Feel free to separate out the individual items. Thanks!!

[DARKCLOUD]

You need to get your bike to a good BMW mechanic familiar with your bike and have it gone through. The brake problem is probably a cable seizing up that needs replacing, it could be other things. The RID problem with the gear shifter, that is a common problem with that generation of BMW's. The engine knock, could be in the TB synch - special trick to pre 96 oilheads, then again what gear and rpm does it start knocking at? Tons of answers for that. Sea Foam, Chevron total fuel system cleaner works a lot better for me. If you have oil that you can see through on the sight gauge and after using the cleaner it turns the oil "BMW BLACK" you need to change the oil its full of crud. The tank, something must be wrong with the mounts. A good BMW mechanic can find all the faults, plus some more. Grease in the driveshaft may have turned to wax, the throttle bodies are sucking air through age cracks, etc.

Been there done that, probably do it again

Crazy JON

[CHARLES960]

Wes,
The other poster is correct, if you don't have a club member familiar w/ the gs, a bite the bullet trip to the technician is worth it.

The throttle bodies can start to cause poor running;where the butterfly valve pin goes through the casing, it wallows the opening and allows air to enter. I forgot what to spray on them that would make the engine hicup if this were a problem. Darn. Also, did you take off the emissions canister? Could it be clogged?

I don't think you should have to ratchet your tank on. Is something binding underneath? I know its a pain to wiggle the rubber buffers onto the plastic and the tank at the same time, another pair of hands can help there.

The brake is hydrolic of course, perhaps you have some corrosion due to a small leak at the master cylinder. I would take a careful look there. While discussing brakes, once you have one rubber line fail, just buy the speigler line kit and replace them all. I found out the expensive way that deterioration comes in stages! Still with the brakes, you can easily rebuild callipers with a kit from the dealer, don't be intimidated. Also, don't get your fingers in the way when cleaning out the passages with compressed air!!!!

My neutral light has a mind of its own.

Check over on advrider.com for lots of free advice.

Charles

[KEV95GS]

Hi Wes,

I've had a few of your issues as well.

With the tank I've found that the "u" bracket on the frame gets pulled in when tightening the bolt. I've had to spread it back out a few times and the dog ear on the tank usually will slide right in then. Also check to make sure your vent lines aren't hangin' things up. I also usually put the black rubbers on the tank, instead of trying to keep them on the plastic, before trying to put it back on.

The engine... I'd start with a good valve adjustment and throttle body sync. Also, like Charles mentioned, the knock could be the butterfly shaft in the right hand TB. I just rebuilt mine and wonder why I waited till 81K. You can check if it has play and "knock" by holding the bell crank on the back (where the thottle cable wraps around), while the bike is running, and see if it quiets down you'll be able to feel it slappin' around too.

You can spray WD40 around the boots to see if there are any air leaks. If the engine revs up then you got air leaks.

The brake light... There is a switch in the front brake lever the actuates the brake light. It could be misadjusted. But it could also be the piston in the master cylinder. I just rebuilt that as well and it had a lot of crud in it. It could cause it to hang and not return. I couldn't really see any of the crud or the switch for the brake light until I took off the handgards and the cover under the MC.

The neutral switch is a common problem. Mine works when she feels like it. I just got used to it and pull in the clutch to start anyway. If the gear indicator is showing random stuff it's probably the same thing. I believe the neutral switch and the gear indicator switch are all in the same place.


Hope this helps.
Let us know what you find out. Also get you a good manual they are a big help.

Kevin