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Thread: Temperature rising (K1100LT)

  1. #1
    Registered User 111865's Avatar
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    Temperature rising (K1100LT)

    I picked up a 93 K1100LT on the 21st of this month and have put 200 miles on it. I seem to have a coolent problem of some sort that i cant seem to put my finger on. Crusing along at 70 and comming to a stop the temp light goes on and the temp gauge is sitting just short of the red mark. Fan is running, I can feel a warm breaze comming out of the flaring, coolent level is normal, all hoses are warm. once under speed again the temp falls back to normal and the temp light goes off.

    the same thing happens if i am driving on the highway and enter a town that has speeds around 35 or less. the temp will rise and then go down again after i leave the town and pick up speed.

    here is the kicker.... i can drive around the city all day and never have the temp rise.


    This is happening when the temp out side is less then 50 (hasn't been warmer then that yet). Now next friday i leave for key west and it wont be 50 any more.

    Do i have a problem or is this normal? If i do have a problem... what the heck is it?

    Thanks in advance for your support

  2. #2
    YO YO! LICK MY BRICK's Avatar
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    Question

    hey SLY sounds kind of normal to me,my k1100rs runs hot. On the highway my temp gauge is in the middle and when I come into slower traffic I watch the temp gauge just about hit red mark on the temp gauge,and then the fan kicks in,then watch the needle go back to the middle.It will keep doing this until I speed up again getting the coolant flowing and air over the motor.however My temp light never comes on.

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    One Hot K

    Check the anti freeze to see how strong it is and if it needs to be changed. If that isn't the problem, then the thermostat might be sticking. Next place to check would be for a clogged radiator.

    I'd backflush the radiator, and put in a new thermostat and antifreeze. JON

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    Focused kbasa's Avatar
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    Re: One Hot K

    Originally posted by Dark Cloud
    Check the anti freeze to see how strong it is and if it needs to be changed. If that isn't the problem, then the thermostat might be sticking. Next place to check would be for a clogged radiator.

    I'd backflush the radiator, and put in a new thermostat and antifreeze. JON
    I'd probably do the same as JON. Without an idea of how long the coolant has been in there, I'd want to swap it out. Inspecting the thermostat wouldn't be bad idea either. You'll need a candy thermometer and a pan of water. I'm not sure what temperature the thermostat is supposed to open at. Does anyone know?
    Dave Swider
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    Some bikes. Some with motors, some without.

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    YO YO! LICK MY BRICK's Avatar
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    thermostat should open at about 176-185 degrees

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    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Re: Re: One Hot K

    Originally posted by KBasa
    I'd probably do the same as JON. Without an idea of how long the coolant has been in there, I'd want to swap it out. Inspecting the thermostat wouldn't be bad idea either. You'll need a candy thermometer and a pan of water. I'm not sure what temperature the thermostat is supposed to open at. Does anyone know?
    Starts to open at ~180F, not fully open until about 200F. 180F is just about center on the temperature gauge (did some extensive testing of this last year..)

    The behavior the original poster is seeing is somewhat unusual.. but could be explained by either a slow thermostat or a gummed up radiator. It heats up after a good run 'cause the engine has more residual heat in it. Puttering around town - you don't generate as much heat so it doesn't heat up. Also - running lean will make the engine run hotter. If the bike has an O2 sensor might be time to think about changing it.

    Oh - the antifreeze - you ideally want a 40/60% solution unless you live in Alaska (40% antifreeze) - that's about optimum for thermal transfer and reasonable freeze protection. Go higher than that and it doesn't transfer heat as well - meaning the engine will run hotter. Case of where more isn't better.

    Best,
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  7. #7
    Gary99
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    When running at highway speeds, then slowing down, or stopping, the motor enters a stage called "heatsoak" by engineers, and the temp will dramatically rise. My LT temp rises very quickly, even in town, if stopped at a red light for a few minutes, but the fans kick on and keep it out of the red. I would do the routine checks listed here, but as long as the fans keep the temp out of the red in town, I wouldn't worry about it.

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    Registered User 111865's Avatar
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    more info

    Yesterday i put another 100 miles on it and paid very close attention to the temp gauge and lite.

    from a cold start the temp rises to the middle of the dial. temp light off. drove 20 miles at 70 temp between middle and next mark. Stop at light temp rises to the 3/4 mark, fan on, temp falls between 1/2 and 3/4 then the temp light comes on. begin moving again and the temp rises (speed less then 50) temp light goes off and temp falls back to the middle. next stop light temp stays in the middle but the temp light came on. got back on the highway at 70 temp light between 1/2 and 3/4 and temp light went off in about a min. or so. rode about 5 miles got off the high way and enterd town. stop and go traffic temp light would come on and go off but temp never made it to the 3/4 mark, stayed between 1/2 and 3/4. drove around town for about an hour and still the temp gauge never made it to the 3/4 mark but the temp light would come on from time to time with the temp gauge very close to the 1/2 mark.

    After reading responses here i believe that the thermostat is slow to respond and should be R&R .

    So...... where is it?

    Thank you for all your responses. will post the outcome of the thermostat changes as soon as i get one and get it replaced.

    Thanks

  9. #9
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    Gene I think the thermostat houseing is on bottom left hand side of the radiator if you were standing in front of the bike.I'm sure Don will respond to your question more thoroughly.


  10. #10
    What's that noise...? basketcase's Avatar
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    Sly, I can't add anything technical to what as been said, but will make a general observation about getting acquainted with a bike.

    Individual bikes all have a bit of variation in their performance -- resulting in what is sometimes called "personality." All of my bikes have had a discernable summer time personality, and a winter time personality.

    It will take a full cycle of seasons before you have a take on all of it.

    Next, a friend where I live recently bought a '94 L11LT that had sat up for a while. As he has put more miles on it, it has begun to run better and better, and the "kinks" are working out. I.e., the fuel guage has settled down, squeaks have stopped, etc. Meanwhile, we're swapping notes on our different K's. For example, my fuel guage "wobbles" constantly after it comes off of full, and always has. So wobbly is annoying, but normal.

    Anyway, I think what you are seeing is the routine get acquainted curve. And the cure for that is ... TA-DA! You guessed it -- ride the daylights out of it!

    But I would still make a point of changing the coolant ... nothing would ruin a day quicker than a fried engine, you know?
    '98 BMW Z3 Roadster, '00 R1100RT

    If you insist on exercising a right to burn our flag, first be so kind as to wrap yourself in it and then douse yourself with gasoline just before you strike the match.

  11. #11
    Registered User 111865's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Problem solved

    Well thanks to all the great input the problem is now solved. I went to flush the cooling system today and when i removed the thermstat very little collent came out. the raditor had to be about 1/4 full. Filled via the top hose input and now the temp doesnt go above the 1/2 mark!

    Thank you very much for all the help.

  12. #12
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Re: Problem solved

    Originally posted by sly
    Well thanks to all the great input the problem is now solved. I went to flush the cooling system today and when i removed the thermstat very little collent came out. the raditor had to be about 1/4 full. Filled via the top hose input and now the temp doesnt go above the 1/2 mark!

    Thank you very much for all the help.
    Sly - glad to hear this solved the immediate problem - now the question is - where did the missing coolant go?

    I'd suggest checking the weep hole behind the water/oil pump to see if the pump seal has gone south, then look around all the hoses - check the clamps are tight and there isn't a buildup of white powder - if you see white powder - the hose has been leaking around the aluminum fittings. Get new hose - remove, clean fitting and reinstall.

    And finally - I'd suggest getting a new cap, and a replacement hose for the hose to the overflow tank. The caps eventually plug up - sometimes open - sometimes closed (depends on what part of it plugs up) - and if the coolant hose has any cracks in it (and one older than about 6 years old does) - coolant is sent down the hose and never returned to the cooling system.

    It's good when it's the simple things - but I would want to know where the coolant went.

    Best,
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  13. #13
    Registered User 111865's Avatar
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    Re: Re: Problem solved

    Originally posted by deilenberger
    Sly - glad to hear this solved the immediate problem - now the question is - where did the missing coolant go?


    i was wondering the same thing. there was coolant in the over flow. i could find no leaks and i have refiled it with coolant and checked for leaks. The person i got it from said that they had to reassemble the bike before i could buy it. Maybe he was in a hurry and didnt fill it full or expected the any coolant needed would come from the reservoir. I dont have a clue.

    It looks like i'll have to remove the tank to replace the hose and i will order a cap.

    Thanks

  14. #14
    Registered User 111865's Avatar
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    weeping coolant

    I have now put over 1000 miles on trying to make sure this bike is ready for the trip to key west tomorrow. Last night after taking a break when i strated the bike coolant was weeping from a hole by the water pump. once i increaced the rpms the weeping stoped but when i reduced them again to an idle it weeped!

    Driving down the road the tmp rose a little and the fan kicked in and temp stayed below the 1/2 way mark.

    What was this and was it normal? i have about 30 hours to solve this problem.

    thank you

  15. #15
    What's that noise...? basketcase's Avatar
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    Ok. I've seen that one before

    The oil pump and water pump on the K operate off the same shaft. In other words, the shaft runs through the middle of a two-sided pump: one side of the pump handles the oil, and the other the coolant. What has happened is the seal is deterioating.

    Before I purchased my 1995 K75, it had been parked (with only 1,150 miles on it) for over a year. And it started this routine at about 10,000 miles.

    It was only a few drops of coolant, and the tech was not worried about it. But when I had it in for the 12K service, I had the seal replaced. (Keep in mind that because of the way the bike is built, it is also possible to get an oil drip from the same place).

    The seal replacement is not that difficult a chore. If you are comfortable wrenching, you can do it yourself. And it is not expensive to have done at the dealership -- more time comsuming than anything else.

    Now -- should you take the trip? When I finally get a chance to make a trip now and then, I hate like the dickens to cancel. So if it was me, I would call ahead and schedule the replacement (and parts availability) with the nearest dealer along the way, and then hit the road. But that's me.

    If I remember correctly, it would hold you up for three or four hours -- most is which is spent allowing the engine to cool.
    '98 BMW Z3 Roadster, '00 R1100RT

    If you insist on exercising a right to burn our flag, first be so kind as to wrap yourself in it and then douse yourself with gasoline just before you strike the match.

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