Gas Tank Rust removal and reseal

[rkildu]

On this forum and the Airheads list there have a number of postings about tank cleaning and resealing. After removing my petcocks for rebuilding I have found that I have rust in the lower seams of my 1982 R100.

I have researched several of the suggested cures from both lists, This one appeals to me as it is a complete package, and has been around a long time:

http://www.hirschauto.com/acb/showde...t_ID=8&CATID=3

Does anyone have any experience with it? I'd appreciate any comments.

Thanks
Rod Kilduff
82 R1100Lufty
97 K1100LT

[GRANTMACEACHERN]

google POR 15 tank relining kits. very similar. most of the boxerworks group seem partial to it.

[TGHSMITH]

+1 on the por 15, you need to get the kit with the stripper also so you remove the factory lining.

[rkasal]

For my Puch restoration, my local BMW shop recommended I use Rust-All from Sudco International Corp. This is what they use for removing rust from tanks for restorations.

Ph. 323.728.5407
F. 323.728.8060

Regards,

Randy Kasal

[GRANTMACEACHERN]

+1 on the por 15, you need to get the kit with the stripper also so you remove the factory lining.

Find as much feedback as you can on the liner removal technique i.e. here, boxerworks, other forums. Some have had no problem removing their liner. Myself, it was not as easy as others made out. There is careful prep work involved in that you need to take the time and set up a place to work on it. Masking to protect your paintjob, plugging the petcocks (I used two modified corks), protective gear for yourself. I noticed it was better to gently roll the solution around inside the tank. I tried to agitate it more vigorously and it generated gas and pressure and "popped" on of the corks and almost hit me. It can be a messy job, just be careful. The two most common remarks I have heard are 1.) the stripper took the liner out in no time 2.) it took two cans to remove the liner and then it still had bits of liner inside.

The kit has a metal preparation solution that I believe neutralizes any surface rust. If you are already showing rust in the seams it may be too deep or extensive to repair chemically.

Finally, you have to make sure the inside is bone dry. It took me over a day with a hairdryer and compressed air to get all the moisture out such that I couldn't see any residue, moisture or drops. Bone dry!

Good luck.

[GRANTMACEACHERN]

ps...that tank job was for my 83 RS also!