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Thread: sanity check please: switched wiring for accessories

  1. #1
    ** newbie ** griffin738's Avatar
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    sanity check please: switched wiring for accessories

    Hello,

    I'm hoping to install a couple accessories on my '02 1150GSA. I'd like them all to be switched such that when I turn off the ignition, power shuts off to them all. From reading a bunch of posts everywhere, I think the answer is to use a relay and a distribution block (aka dual pair block, aka dual row barrier strip (I think)) with two jumpers.

    I've attached a schematic of what I'm thinking to do. Can anyone give this an overall sanity check? I also have a few specific questions, as follows:
    1) Is grounding to battery okay?
    2) Is 15Amp fuse okay?
    3) Any concerns with using ÔÇ£topÔÇØ of barrier strip as positive & ÔÇ£bottomÔÇØ as ground?
    4) Is using a Quick Connect to switched power okay?
    5) Is 18 gauge wire for all connections okay?
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    Paul

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    Focused kbasa's Avatar
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    Paul, Touratech sells a gizmo called a CanBus helper that can do exactly what you propose. It's got a built in relay and a series of spade connectors. I think it's $50 or $75. It's got a fuse inline, too.
    Dave Swider
    Marin County, CA

    Some bikes. Some with motors, some without.

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    Braz J Brase's Avatar
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    I'd like to see you to have appropriately sized fuses for each device. Instead of the terminal block, you could use a fuse block. I use this one on my bike.

    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...allpartial/0/0

    John

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    depending on where you locate your fuse block, you can also pull switched power for the relay off of the bikes existing fuses (horn fuse makes a good one) with a piggypack on the existing fuse.


    Using one of these:


    Another option for a fuse block is the Centech. Not waterproof but small enough to tuck away in a waterproof location.


    I use the a Centech to power smaller accessories out of my tank bag (V1, satellite radio, autocom, cell phone, electric jacket) so I can move it from bike to bike. YMMV.
    Last edited by wuli959; 01-16-2007 at 10:55 PM.

  5. #5
    Rider turned manufacturer lewisec's Avatar
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    You will want to make sure each accessory has its own fuse between your barrier strip and the accessory. You can fuse the relay input (we do on our Power Plates) for extra safety as you show. On your Gerbings, do you have the total wattage on your setup?

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    FNG halfmarathondon's Avatar
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    I also used the BlueSea that John listed; I got a 30amp relay from RadioShack. Put the relay in the OEM fuse box and screwed the BlueSea to the top of the Air Box. I also added a Noise Suppressor up line from the BlueSea. I used an Add-A-Circuit off the horn fuse to power the relay.

  7. #7
    Slowpoke & Proud of It! BRADFORDBENN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by griffin738 View Post

    I've attached a schematic of what I'm thinking to do. Can anyone give this an overall sanity check? I also have a few specific questions, as follows:
    1) Is grounding to battery okay?
    2) Is 15Amp fuse okay?
    3) Any concerns with using ÔÇ£topÔÇØ of barrier strip as positive & ÔÇ£bottomÔÇØ as ground?
    4) Is using a Quick Connect to switched power okay?
    5) Is 18 gauge wire for all connections okay?
    Here are my non warranted opinions...

    Grounding to the Battery is fine
    a 15Amp fuse might be okay, what are you planning on connecting to it? This depends on Ohm's Law. The easiest way to put it (in layperson's terms) Watts = Volts * Amps. So if you know the wattage and you use 12VDC for the calculation you can derive amperage.
    I like going alternating pairs for the wiring, it makes it easier to dress the wire and easier to use a multimeter.
    A quick connect is okay if it is rated for the power current and voltage.
    The 18 AWG wire will be okay for most items and not others. I do not have my reference sheet with me, but it depends on what you are connecting with it. iPod that takes 7 Watts, heck go with 22AWG.
    -=Brad

    It isn't what you ride, it is if you ride

  8. #8
    ** newbie ** griffin738's Avatar
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    Thanks! wiring plan v2. . .

    Thank you all very much! Input fully appreciated (and mostly understood!). New "schematic" at bottom. . .

    Quote Originally Posted by KBasa View Post
    Touratech sells a gizmo called a CanBus helper that can do exactly what you propose.
    I took a look - it looks like a great solution, except now I'm spooked that I should have different fuses for each accessory. Also, they're on backorder!

    Quote Originally Posted by John Brase View Post
    I'd like to see you to have appropriately sized fuses for each device.
    OK, will do. Any idea what fuse if any I should use for the Autocom Active Plus? (none came with the unit and there is no specific mention in the materials).

    Quote Originally Posted by wuli959 View Post
    depending on where you locate your fuse block, you can also pull switched power for the relay off of the bikes existing fuses (horn fuse makes a good one) with a piggypack on the existing fuse.
    That sounds like the way to go, thanks. Maybe I'll go with a Tapa-Circuit so that I don't mess with the fit of the horn fuse in the fuse panel?

    Quote Originally Posted by lewisec View Post
    On your Gerbings, do you have the total wattage on your setup?
    Jacket liner @ 77-107 watts + Gloves @ 22-27 watts. The Gerbing's "kit" comes with a 15A fuse. Sufficient?

    Quote Originally Posted by donaldb View Post
    I also added a Noise Suppressor up line from the BlueSea.
    Thanks, something tells me I should remember this in case things sound a little funky after the install. . .

    Quote Originally Posted by BradfordBenn View Post
    The easiest way to put it (in layperson's terms) Watts = Volts * Amps. So if you know the wattage and you use 12VDC for the calculation you can derive amperage.
    Ah! so if the total gerbings wattage is between 99 & 134 watts, then a fuse that trips at 15 amps is about right. (?) I also looked through the Autocom materials - no mention of wattage. Perhaps I'll pick up the phone. . .

    Quote Originally Posted by BradfordBenn View Post
    I like going alternating pairs for the wiring, it makes it easier to dress the wire and easier to use a multimeter.
    Makes total sense, but each pair is already bridged, so I can't see how that would work, at least on the terminal I picked up (wrong item?): http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...983&kw=2103983
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    Paul

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  9. #9
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    Power Distribution

    Just a quick note on what I have done in the past on a couple of my bikes.

    First, the Touratech device is for bikes with the Canbus system. I do not think your 02 GSA would qualify. On my 1150 GS and on my 1200GT (03) I use a power distribution panel from electricalconnection.com. Additionaly, I also use their grounding block.

    The distribution panel is simular to the Cen Tech, as you are adding additional fused circuts. The panel itself is fuse and via a relay, is only hot with the key in the on position. So everything you wire up to this panel is only on with the key. If you need something powered with the key off, it would be a seperate issue.

    The use of a grounding block is also a very neat installation. As you add circuts that require a ground, the grounding block allows this to be done in a very neat order. You do not end up with a stack of connectors at your battery terminals.

    So just figure out what you want powered with the ignition and what you want hot all the time. Example, I powered my Gerbings though the distribution block. Works ok, but I would rather have it powered all the time. That allows heat with out running the bike. At least for a while. Same with my XM. Additional lighting is run off the distribution block, as I only need it when operating the bike.

    It is very easy to do, and using the distribution panels out there in the market make it a neat installation.

    good luck

    bob still

  10. #10
    Registered User DERAIL412's Avatar
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    We did you get the black box you put the autocom unit and other into it?
    Last edited by derail412; 09-03-2007 at 03:43 AM. Reason: didn't need the quote

  11. #11
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    I recall he used a VHS case when I saw this earlier in year
    Steve Henson
    SABMWRA MOA Club#62's Flat Fixer/ current forum moderator
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  12. #12
    ** newbie ** griffin738's Avatar
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    Yep, an old VHS case. On my 1150 GS Adventure w/ tall Sargent seat, the case fits perfectly where the tool kit would otherwise go (tools, tools and more tools ride along in Jesse bag, muffler side).

    I like the case b/c it provides a "shell" for the autcom & accessory power items. It's easy to cut a few holes through which to pass wires. I also cut a couple holes on the low side of the case (it sits on an angle) to allow water to escape - but so far there's no evidence that water has ever gotten in.

    Paul

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    LINK: Support the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute

    those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind

  13. #13
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by griffin738 View Post
    I also have a few specific questions, as follows:
    4) Is using a Quick Connect to switched power okay?
    5) Is 18 gauge wire for all connections okay?
    4) It is if you don't mind splicing into factory wiring. I just don't like them and installed all of my stuff using non-destructive methods.

    5) That depends on your current draw. I'd use 16 or 14 ga for the heated clothing circuit...less voltage drop, not that you have any real wire lengths to deal with.

    This is how I tapped into a circuit...AutoSwitch and relay installation going to my auxilliary fuse block on my GS.

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