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Thread: oil change, rebuilt motor

  1. #1
    tricyclerob
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    oil change, rebuilt motor

    OK, here goes, although I feel like I could be opening a can of worms. I have a rebuilt engine in my '59 R69. Cylinder bore, pistons, rings, brngs, valve job, valves, springs, other parts too numerous to mention. Work was done by Vech. Runs great, and now with about 600 miles on it, seems to be breaking in nicely. After first 100 miles the heads were re-torqued and valves set. In the last 100 miles, smoothed out a bit, and seems to have more power now that it has loosened up a little. Is it too early for first oil change? Does anone run synthetic? And if so, I'm thinking 1 or 2 changes w/dino prior to synthetic, to insure complete break in. In regards to the dino oil, straight 30,40? 10-40?, 20-50[it's summer now] I hear a rocker "ticking" a little and, prior to about a 200 mile ride this wkend, am getting ready to do the valve adjust again, and was think this would be a good time for the oil change. Don't be shy, lets hear your opinion. thanks, rj

  2. #2
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    I did about the same thing on an R69S...slingers and top end overhaul. I might be somewhat anal about things, but here's what I did. I changed oil after the first 20 mile ride...check the torque/valves the next day. Ran it out to 200 miles post-rebuild...changed oil and check torque/valves. Got to 500 miles this past weekend...you got it, oil and check of torque and valves. I had initially set the valves loose, maybe 0.0085 exhaust or maybe even 0.009. At 500 miles, I set the valves back to nominal 0.006/0.008. Check torque but in all the checks, I haven't really seen any movement. I'll probably go at least 500 miles maybe 1000 before I change/check again.

    I'm using 10w40 (BMW brand) here in S. Texas. I think the manual calls for 30w winter and 40w summer. I figure 10w40 works for both. I'm not a synth man...I prefer dino.

    My bike also seems to be showing a little more oomph as the miles go by...maybe my death grip is loosening, realizing that it looks like I didn't screw anything up!!
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Registered User RINTY's Avatar
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    rebuilt motor

    Since Vech rebuilt the motor, I'd get his advice on what kind of oil to put in, and at what intervals, at this stage of the break in. He's done more than a few of them.

    Enjoy your new motor.

    Rinty
    Last edited by rinty; 06-06-2007 at 04:52 PM. Reason: add something

  4. #4
    tricyclerob
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    Rinty, I did call Vech, and they recomend the first oil change at 500 mi., using straight 40 wt. in the summer and 30wt. in colder weather. I did find Valvoline at one supplier, but the selection of straight viscosity oil is very limited, if fact that was all they had. It was very hard to walk past all the syn. and syn.blends, esp. after the rather extensive review of oils done by "Motorcycle Consumer News", where syn. did better in almost every catagory. But, I would not switch to syn.On the other hand, I see ads in "Hemmings " for oils designed for older and antique vehicles, that should not be using detergent oils. I read somewhere, but have not had a chance to investigate further, that w/the slingers, and no filter, you really don't want particals to remain in suspension, but rather to settle to the bottom of the pan, to be cleaned out where the pan is removed and cleaned every so many miles. what to do, what to do? rj

  5. #5
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Age old question which no definitive answer...we all have to find something that "works for us." About the only thing that I think is important enough to consider is the API rating of the oil. Typical oils off the shelf are meant for vehicles with catalytical converters and with tolerances meant to extract the most energy from the engine (recent "energy saving" oil). To accomodate that, the ratings have gone to SL/SM etc., and the net results is some of the anti-corrosion features (ZDDP for one) of older rated oils have been removed. BMW's oil, supposedly made by Spectro, is SG and still contains good additives for our bikes. I've recently seen Castrol oil in 20w50 with this same rating.

    As for in suspension or not, I don't really see how the oil has that much time to "come to rest" so the stuff could settle out. I just got my slingers cleaned in my R69S...done at 30K miles and they were 3/4 full. I figure I'll never put 30K miles on it in my lifetime, so it's someone else's problem.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  6. #6
    Registered User RINTY's Avatar
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    vintage motor

    Rob:

    I agree, the straight grade oils are not as readily available as the newer multi grades and specialty oils. But if I had a '59, I think I would just stock up on straight grade and keep using that.

    Rinty

  7. #7
    '99 '03 '06 National Co-Rally Chair Friedle's Avatar
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    oil change

    special order single viscosity oil------------------cheap

    motor rebuild...again-------------------------------expensive


    Friedle
    rider of old bikes
    Ride fast safely

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