Since the last time I posted a 6K pictorial, I have notice that it was a bit thin on substance. So, when I went to do my 24K on Friday I decided to beef it up.
This is very picture heavy, but a decent step-by-step. I forgot a couple pictures, but you can figure it out from what I have here.
Hope this is useful to those who donÔÇÖt have access to a tech day.
The valve cover just getting started.
Pop off the plug wire cover. Just pull from the wire end. I use a screwdriver and it just popÔÇÖs right off.
Then remove the spark plug wire. I use a screwdriver to simply pry it out. (I will try to take a picture of this later. I forgot here).
Loosen the valve cover bolts. The come loose, but do not come out all the way.
Then pull off the valve cover. Mine needed a little tap with the heal of my hand to break it loose.
The Valve Cover removed. The drip pan is a cheap plastic one from the dollar store. I have been known to use a cookie sheet.
Note the small amount of oil. That is all that normally falls out when removing the valve cover.
This is a special plug wrench. Actually a trimmed down Craftsman. It makes it easier to get the socket in and out.
Loosen the plug with the ratchet, then pull it out.
At this point you need to do the same for the other side. Take off the valve cover and remove the spark plug.
With the engine in 6th gear rotate the engine by turning the rear wheel until the arrow on the cam sprocket is pointing straight out.
Check the rocker arms for looseness. Both must be loose.
If not check the other side. Whichever side is loose is the side you start on.
In my experience the arrow correlates to the right side.
Before getting started with valve clearance, check the rocker arm end play with feeler gages. It should be between .05mm and .40mm.
Note, if not, you need to adjust the gap by loosening the head and associated bolts, and tapping the rocker arm mounts until the gap is correct.
Using a .15mm feeler gage, and a .30mm feeler gage, I am ready to check valve clearance.
Note the .15mm gage is cut short for clearance of the head bolts.
I use a modified version of valve adjustment. It is much simpler, and allows for very quick, but very accurate adjustment of the valve gaps. The book way is finicky, and frustrating.
First I place both feeler gages in behind the valve and rocker arm. Notice how they are covering both valves. The .15mm on the intake, and the .30mm on the exhaust valves. Covering both at the same time helps with accuracy, and makes checking them after adjustment easier.
Here is a close-up of how they go in.
Loosen all four adjuster nuts.
Make sure they are at least one full turn loose.
Start on either intake or exhaust, it doesnÔÇÖt matter.
Place a 3mm Allen wrench in as shown. Make sure it is at about 2 OÔÇÖclock and moves smoothly.
Hold it with your finger, them let it go. It should move about 40?? or so.
See it at the natural stopping point. This point varies, so do this several times to determine its natural stopping point. This tensions the adjuster just right, and allows you to be consistent.
Now here is the tricky part. Hold the Allen wrench at its natural stopping point.
Then spin the nut down, and tighten it gently with a wrench. Do the other valve adjuster.
At this point, sorry no picture, place your thumb and forefinger on the center of the feeler gage and pull then push the gage in place. You should feel even drag on the feeler gage. If one valve is tighter than the other the gage will pull out crooked. Redo the tight valve. It should feel pretty easy to slide the feeler gage in and out.
When done, tighten all the adjuster nuts, and retest the tension on the feeler gages.
Note: If you like you can use a torque wrench at 8nm, but wait until you get all the adjustments done, tighten the adjuster nuts gently by hand, or with a torque wrench, then retest for proper adjustment.
Remove the feeler gages.
Now rotate the motor until you see this lug on the right side cam chain sprocket.
Check the looseness of the rocker arms. Both intake and exhaust should be loose. If not, rotate the engine until the lug comes around again and check.
Follow the same procedure for the left side of the engine.