Once there was a Tavern
Another late entry
From MIKA's post this morning:
At 1.4 pounds and 5.1 ?ù 3.6 ?ù 2.8 inches, the K100D is one of the lightest, smallest digital SLRs. Despite its diminutive dimensions, it makes room for a comfortable handgrip, large control buttons and knobs, and a generous 2.5-inch LCD screen.
Got jittery hands? Gyroscopic sensors detect camera shake and send signals to magnets inside the K100D. The magnets stabilize the free-floating image sensor plate to counteract your motion, keeping the CCD still while the camera body moves around it.
A custom image processor effectively eliminates most pixel noise ÔÇô those fuzzy-looking artifacts caused by amplifying weak light signals. But the chip is slower than others at processing photos and getting the camera ready for its next shot.
Many SLRs come with a low-end lens to get you started, but the PentaxÔÇÖs included 18- to 55-mm lens captures razor-sharp pics with minimal geometric distortion, the common bending of straight lines at wide-angle settings.
COMMON CARDS, CELLS
Just like your entry-level pocket cam, the K100D accepts SD cards. (But they arenÔÇÖt included.) The K100D also takes a lithium-ion battery or four AAs, so you can substitute disposables when your planet- and money-saving rechargeables run dry.
While touring Canada this past summer we took a Canon AF540 digital camera. Far from high tech, and not an SLR, but it served us quite well. Most of our pictures were taken while riding, and if we did drop or loose the camera the reaonable price of $300 CAD wasn't too hard to swallow.
Tom Moran's post #57 summed it up so well, I've nothing to add in that digital direction. But for my own travel photo gear I march to a different drummer. Probably not for everybody, but it can be done....
Right now, film gear is really cheap (used). And I've ended up with a collection of about a dozen 35mm and medium-format units. Rolleiflexes, a Widelux with a panoramic (swinging) lens, a weather-resistant 35mm Olympus Stylus.
Generally, I'll have at least 3 cameras. The 35mm p&s weather-resist Olympus absolutely goes, in a little fanny pack, outside my 'Stich. Always handy, and able to hand it to strangers so they can take decent photos of me and my partner Sharon. Lens is decent, but not great. Best not to use the zoom. But the camera is cheap and robust, has a flash, and an idiot can use it. It takes an odd battery, a 123 model, so I buy an extra ahead of time and put it in the same padded fanny-pack.
Next, I'll pack the same big Lowepro camera bag that Kbasa posted on waaaaaay back, and it goes in my tankbag. Seems the smoothest best-protected spot on the bike. Then my favorite gear for moto trips (assuming the trip is not all dirt roads) is my 1950s-era Rolleiflex or Rolleicord, a medium-format twin-lens camera where I view the scene on a non-electric 2" square viewscreen on top the camera. I can compose and shoot w/o removing my helmet using that camera, there's no batteries to die, and when the big negatives are scanned they produce Jpeg images in the 20 mega-pixel range. I also have some macro lenses that are very compact that I'll toss in, too. So now I'm covered for tiny shots and normal-view shots.
Next the Widelux panoramic camera, which just takes 35mm film, for the "big picture." Excellent in big sky country, small towns (one shot shows the whole town), and many other places where you're up close but want to capture a wide area. Those negs easily produce 10 mega-pixel images if desired.
Then add film and a cheap light-meter (since only the modern Olympus has a built-in meter), and a couple extra batteries for the meter (SR-44, about the size of under-bucket valve adjust shims). They last a long time, and odds are I won't need a new one, but if I do, I'm ready.
With the above setup, I'm unlikely to ever lose all 3 cameras due to accident / theft / old age. If all the batteries did die, two of the three cameras are still fully functional by using a light-meter spreadsheet on my PDA, or by my own memory of how much light requires what exposure. In daylight, I generally don't use a meter, as I don't need it. But in trickier lighting (long exposures indoors, for instance, such as in a mine or a bar), I'll use the meter. The only camera I'd be really busted up about losing is the Widelux, a good one is sorta pricey for a 50 y/o camera (a grand or so). The other two cameras aren't really worth much at all.
Oh, I also take a tripod. Size depends on how much room I can spare.
Back home, I'll have the negs scanned when processed, and go from there.
I like the robust, proven nature of the group above. They seem quite resistant to vibration on the GS, or my DR-350, or even in my Jeep. I like the redundancy, ie, neither battery failure nor even 1-2 camera failures would cripple my ability to come home with good stuff.
I'm actually looking at a 50 y/o 4x5 press camera and a Polaroid back, as well as conventional 4x5 sheet film, for the times when I really want detail. I figure with a Polaroid back on the press camera, I might even enter some long-distance rallies. Depending on the model, several of them have a wire-frame view finder, and I could shoot w/o taking off my helmet.
My 12 y/o son shoots digital on trips, a little 6 mega-pixel Nikon P&S, as well. Pocketable, gives decent results with no experience at all. But shutter lag is a pain if you've grown used to not having shutter lag.
Original 1973 LWB R75/5
Bought one of these 'GORILLAPOD' tripods at a local store in July for $25.00 (CDN). Clings to tree limbs, fence rails, handlebars, foot-long hotdogs and garbage pail covers. Amazing little critter! Should be one in every photo bag.
Don't leave home without the little feller.
A GorillaPod news blurb.
And GorillaPod themselves.
~ ~ ~ /5 Express
Have Train? - Will Travel!
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http://www.imaging-resource.com has excellent in-depth reviews and plenty of other useful info to help you decide what to get.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/index.htm has terrific practical info about taking pictures.
I just picked up a Canon SD900 after a long line of Sony digital cameras and it's very impressive so far, but I'm not yet up to speed on the menu system. That will take a awhile, but the automatic settings have given me most of what I want.
camera doesn't matter digi, film, DSLR, or P&S... I used to carry a Pentax 6x7 cm or a Fuji X-Pan (24x65mm) but nothing now I'm looking for a new one.
This is a good secure set up Just don't leave it up for a long time Vibration will loosen it as you go. The Flex Arm will absorb some vibrations unlike a rigid mount
Bogen / Manfrotto 2896HD Heavy-Duty Flex Arm - for Super Clamp
This is a type of flexable goose neck that will mount in the super clamp
and a Bogen / Manfrotto 2915 Super Clamp without Stud. The super clamp will fit on frame or handlebars
see it at:
for a different angel use a monopod to put the camera out to the side of you. Mount the camera to the monopod than sit on the monopod so the camera sticks out to the side of the bike.
An electronic remote release can be taped to the handlebars, jacket or hung around your neck till needed . These will breakaway I.C.E.
for some different views look at http://www.panoramicimages.com and search using two words ... motorcycle motion
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I can do panorama on my new Canon SD900. Looking forward to an image worth recording!
Originally Posted by aprarye
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You're essentially right about the camera not mattering, though if your composition skills are good, some cameras make it a whole lot faster and easier to get what you see. I gave two of my dotters Canon A540's for Christmas and I'm blown away how easy it is to get really great shots from a $150 camera.
Originally Posted by aprarye
And THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! for the link on that flex arm. I've been looking for something like that for a couple of months!
This year I got rid of all of my Hasselblads, but I am interested in scanning past negatives. What scanner do you use to scan the Rollei's negs?
Originally Posted by DougGrosjean
Thanks in advance, Doug.
Retired and riding my RTs, the '87 K100 & the '98 R1100 !
Treasurer of the Forest City Motorrad Club #159
Knights of the Roundel #333
Here's my $.02 cents worth on what is already an exhaustively posted topic.
I have two cameras - both a few years old. The Canon D60 DSLR is the big bad daddy. Include the three lenses, cleaning equipment, extra batteries, filters, remote shutters, tripod mounting plates, etc. and it's a big load to schlep around. I have a Pelican/Lowepro combo (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...o-20/ref=nosim) that fits in one of my side cases. The waterproof/bulletproof (okay - no emprical evidence to support the bulletproof claim) case has been down the Grand Canyon in a boat twice (288 miles down the Colorado length-wise, not width-wise) and on many a kayak expedition. It keeps EVERYTHING out of your camera - as long as you keep the lid closed
Not so great for taking photos while on the bike, but a great way to protect the camera while in route to your destination.
My other camera is an older Canon PowerShot S400. The cool thing about the tiny Canon digital point and shoot cameras is that you can almost always get a waterproof housing for them. (http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/co...derwater_photo) While the housings are generally for underwater photography, it also makes the camera great for simply hanging around your neck, even if you get stuck in a rain storm. These waterproof housings ain't cheap, and you need to get a new housing if you upgrade the camera, but for me the photos are priceless, so I'll spare no expense when it comes to safely getting the camera and the exposed "film" back home.
My suggestion for a friendly case for a point and shoot are the small electronics cases sold by REI. (http://www.rei.com/online/store/Prod...cat=REI_SEARCH)
These little pouches have velcro straps that will attach to just about anything - the velcro strips on your Roadcrafter, around your mirror stem, to your tank bag - whatever - and your camera is always right there, somewhat protected from a brief shower or getting bumped. And you can't beat the price!
Originally Posted by Paul_F
I don't pop in here every day, so that's why the delay.
I use a Epson Perception 2400, IIRC. It's got a backlight in the lid for lighting the negs, but didn't have a fixture for 120 film. So there's a guy out of Atlanta (Doug Fisher or Doug Mason) who makes a 120 filmholder.
But point is moot, because it's about 4 years old now, and there's better stuff out there now. But I tend to buy and keep stuff a long time, so I don't have any reccomendations on current gear.
However, a search of www.photo.net archives would point you in the right direction for 120 negative scanning.
Pano cameras rock, even if film. Fun to do in 1/250 second what it'll take a digital user a bit of time back at the terminal.... Hey, I've got to enjoy the few moments of superiority I get anymore.....
If you ever want way TOO much information on any digital camera ever made, check out http://www.dpreview.com for digital camera reviews, photography tips, latest prices, etc. Again, the site has way too much information for my amateur photographer needs, but too much information is always better than too little information, unless of course you're talking about your parent's sex lives!
By the way the images at & on http://www.panoramicimages.com were shot using FILM. Film formats vary but never cropped from a 35mm (24x36mm). 90% were with were shot with 6x17cm (2.25x 5.75") film most of the rest range from 24x65mm to 4x10" film.
scanning your film... best scanner is a drum type scanner. But that is a totally pro piece of eqiupement. Spend as much as you can and get a wet mounting adapter. Take a look at http://scanscience.com. Other than that a film scanner for film Nikon has two 35 mm scanners both which
produce outstanding results, same performace but different kinks and
add ons. You can do fluid scanning on the Nikon very economically,
and with a more technically advanced implementation that avoids
A flatbed for doccuments and flat art.
The epson V750 is a nice flatbed that will also do film as most flatbeds. But when doing film wet mouting will get you the best performance.
one other tip just shoot it and as large as you can (digi file) and edit later
aka Papa Yams
Humble camera but good results
I've got a small Nikon Coolpix 2100 (yes, 2.1MP resolution) that I bought 3 years ago. It fits in most shirt pockets and fits nicely in my tank bag. I've got a small case that attaches to the belt on my jacket so it can be carried there too.
I've taken some photos with it while riding (see attached for an example) that I reduced in resolution in order to post here. It can be a lot of fun but I will only do it out on an open road with no traffic around.
The mirror shot is my favorite. It's of a buddy on a Yamaha cruiser-style bike and he's where he belongs (BEHIND my BMW) on the ride. You can see the small size of the camera in the mirror. My hands are small for a guy and the camera fits nicely.
2000 R1100RT Opal Blue, 35820 miles