Voltmeter install

[d_day_6]

Any words of wisdom before I start drilling holes and cutting wires to install a Signal Dynamics single LED voltmeter on my R1100GS? Where is the best place to mount the LED, tap into power and hide the meter itself? Thanks.

[wmubrown]

Any words of wisdom before I start drilling holes and cutting wires to install a Signal Dynamics single LED voltmeter on my R1100GS? Where is the best place to mount the LED, tap into power and hide the meter itself? Thanks.

Mount it wherever you want. As for wiring, it shouldn't matter a whole lot... the most accurate reading would be directly connected across the battery, but that's likely inconvenient, so the main wire to the fuse panel is a good alternative. The longer the run of wire, the more voltage drop you will encounter, so keep it as short as possible (on the order a tenths of a volt or so). Using heavier gauge (thicker) wire gives a more accurate reading (16 gauge would be preferable over 24 gauge).

[deilenberger]

Mount it wherever you want. As for wiring, it shouldn't matter a whole lot... the most accurate reading would be directly connected across the battery, but that's likely inconvenient, so the main wire to the fuse panel is a good alternative. The longer the run of wire, the more voltage drop you will encounter, so keep it as short as possible (on the order a tenths of a volt or so). Using heavier gauge (thicker) wire gives a more accurate reading (16 gauge would be preferable over 24 gauge).

John - I wonder if something that draws as little current as an LED based voltmeter needs a heavier gauge wire..

[d_day_6]

I believe the meter and light have 18 ga wiring.

[j-budimlya]

Any words of wisdom before I start drilling holes and cutting wires to install a Signal Dynamics single LED voltmeter on my R1100GS? Where is the best place to mount the LED, tap into power and hide the meter itself? Thanks.

I bought the model that is self contained and just attached it with velcro to the bottom of the guage cluster on my 1150GS....the important thing is to be able to see it plainly day and night....but not have it be directly in your line of sight......My mind just knows that a green light is good and anything else is to be watched for...

I ran my wiring to a connection right near the battery, so the reading would represent what the battery is delivering.....not what the voltage is at the headlight or somewhere else...down that line....

Mine has worked well for a number of years now and I'm pleased with it...

[wmubrown]

John - I wonder if something that draws as little current as an LED based voltmeter needs a heavier gauge wire..

Not necessarily for the meter itself... I always worry about fine gauge wires on the bike... they don't hold up well to abrasion, tension, or any "wiggling" at a mount point.

[d_day_6]

My voltmeter came with the fast-on wire crimps. I have never used these and was wondering if I understand their correct installation. It looks as if when you splice into the bike's wiring you strip it without cutting the wire, put it in the channel of the fast-on, strip the end of the voltmeter's wire and put that in the fast-on channel and then crimp. Correct? Seems pretty simple, but having no MC wiring experience I don't assume anything. Has anyone ever used these wire crimps, and if so, do they hole up well? Thanks....

[wmubrown]

My voltmeter came with the fast-on wire crimps. I have never used these and was wondering if I understand their correct installation. It looks as if when you splice into the bike's wiring you strip it without cutting the wire, put it in the channel of the fast-on, strip the end of the voltmeter's wire and put that in the fast-on channel and then crimp. Correct? Seems pretty simple, but having no MC wiring experience I don't assume anything. Has anyone ever used these wire crimps, and if so, do they hole up well? Thanks....

I'm not sure what you are describing exactly and a quick search on-line reveals only fast-on ring terminals. Something like this works great, no stripping involved. You slide it around the source wire (no cutting involved), then insert your tap wire, crimp it closed and done! It puts two cuts through the insulation on opposing sides of the wire to make electrical contact, can be removed too!
http://www.tessco.com/products/displ...08&eventPage=1
You can find these in most hardware or auto-parts stores.
These are very good too, but form a 'T' junction which takes up more room:
http://www.posi-lock.com/instructions1.html
These are available at Wal-Mart typically. I use the former mostly on my bike, mostly in the fuse block area, and never had trouble with the connection.

[deilenberger]

What you're describing as "ScotchLoc" type connectors.. http://www.crlaurence.com/productpag...40::2770::7298

IMHO - these are an abortion. They are wiring failures wating to happen. They have no place on a bike. None.

Problems with them:

They weaken the mechanical properties of the wire without adding any compensating reinforcement. Insulation not only "insulates" wire - it helps protect it from vibration induced fatique. It protects it from environmental attack from water.. These also cause corrosion of the wire they are attached to through electrolytic action of dissimular metals. plus water will wick it's way up the wiring from the broken insulation and start corrosion inside the wire - and I've seen this travel many inches up the wire, hidden from sight.

If you can't solder a good joint - then learn to make a good crimp and use a crimp connector with shrink wrap over it.

I've replaced more than one wiring harness on a bike due to the use of the pieces of crap.

These get a BIG THUMBS DOWN from me..

[cjack]

What you're describing as "ScotchLoc" type connectors.. http://www.crlaurence.com/productpag...40::2770::7298

IMHO - these are an abortion. They are wiring failures wating to happen. They have no place on a bike. None.

Problems with them:

They weaken the mechanical properties of the wire without adding any compensating reinforcement. Insulation not only "insulates" wire - it helps protect it from vibration induced fatique. It protects it from environmental attack from water.. These also cause corrosion of the wire they are attached to through electrolytic action of dissimular metals. plus water will wick it's way up the wiring from the broken insulation and start corrosion inside the wire - and I've seen this travel many inches up the wire, hidden from sight.

If you can't solder a good joint - then learn to make a good crimp and use a crimp connector with shrink wrap over it.

I've replaced more than one wiring harness on a bike due to the use of the pieces of crap.

These get a BIG THUMBS DOWN from me..

I think you're being a little hard on these. I don't like them much but can see how they might be useful. Some of these are pretty well made and are stuffed with dielectric grease. As to soldering, most automotive applications require crimping because of the propensity of the solder soaked wire up from the joint to break from bending and vibration. Although BMW does (or has) soldered wire bundles, I notice they use a bare minimum of solder to do the job. And sometimes not enough. Their soldering is in places where the wire bundle can't flex as well.
I want to say that any joint is only as good as the quality of the job done and the material, crimp, Scotchloc, or solder, and if some of the obvious pitfalls have been addressed.

[d_day_6]

What you're describing as "ScotchLoc" type connectors.. http://www.crlaurence.com/productpag...40::2770::7298

IMHO - these are an abortion. They are wiring failures wating to happen. They have no place on a bike. None.

Problems with them:

They weaken the mechanical properties of the wire without adding any compensating reinforcement. Insulation not only "insulates" wire - it helps protect it from vibration induced fatique. It protects it from environmental attack from water.. These also cause corrosion of the wire they are attached to through electrolytic action of dissimular metals. plus water will wick it's way up the wiring from the broken insulation and start corrosion inside the wire - and I've seen this travel many inches up the wire, hidden from sight.

If you can't solder a good joint - then learn to make a good crimp and use a crimp connector with shrink wrap over it.

I've replaced more than one wiring harness on a bike due to the use of the pieces of crap.

These get a BIG THUMBS DOWN from me..

yes, these are the scotchloc.....and even with my limited knowledge, they looked questionable...

Thanks for everyones input. It has been very helpful.

[deilenberger]

I think you're being a little hard on these. I don't like them much but can see how they might be useful.

The being hard is the result of having to replace 3 wiring harnesses that former owners had butchered with these POS's.. there was extensive corrosion of the wiring inside the insulation.. BMW uses bare copper wire on their harnesses - not tinned wiring (which is used in marine environments just for this reason..) Combined with the dissimular metal of the PosiLoc a very nice scenerio is setup for electrolytic corrosion once the joint gets wet... and the corrosion then travels up the wire.

Some of these are pretty well made and are stuffed with dielectric grease.

The majority aren't though.. most are made to a price, and purchased by price.

As to soldering, most automotive applications require crimping because of the propensity of the solder soaked wire up from the joint to break from bending and vibration.

A properly done solder connection doesn't rely on the wire for mechanical resistance to vibration.. it should be correctly supported by insulation around the joint - I prefer shrink-wrap, sometimes multiple layers of it. Doing it this way, I've never had a connection fail, and I've never had corrosion problems. I tend to be somewhat anal about electrical work on my bikes (and others that people ask for help with...)

The big reason for crimped connections is simply automation of construction, and making a reliable joint isn't so dependent on a skill such as knowing how to solder. Problem is - most DIY'ers aren't going to spend the $100 or so for the professional tool to do crimping (and a different tool for each crimp size/type) - they'll do it with the $1.98 tool from the autoparts store bin.

Although BMW does (or has) soldered wire bundles, I notice they use a bare minimum of solder to do the job. And sometimes not enough. Their soldering is in places where the wire bundle can't flex as well.

Which is the correct way to do it.. I've also seen them combine tinned/soldered wire ends and crimps - especially in the large ground connection joints.

I want to say that any joint is only as good as the quality of the job done and the material, crimp, Scotchloc, or solder, and if some of the obvious pitfalls have been addressed.

True enough - but the long term failure rate of the ScotchLoc connector joints that I've seen have convinced me that these are a BAD IDEA on a motorcycle. Jim Davis (www.easternbeaver.com) sells a number of good alternatives in the PosiLock line - which at least provide some mechanical support, and do minimal damage to the insulation of the wire..

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Ma...posi-lock.html

At worst - if you're goinig to go ahead and use the ScotchLoc connectors - when done - use electrical tape to provide some mechanical and environmental protection for the connection... and don't be surprised if there is a wire failure at that point down the road.

[wmubrown]

I think you're being a little hard on these.

I agree. I use them, I have no problem with them. I use them where they remain dry, and where they don't move around (if I have to tie wrap them, I do)

As to soldering, most automotive applications require crimping because of the propensity of the solder soaked wire up from the joint to break from bending and vibration.

The shrink tube Don mentioned eliminates this problem - it acts as a strain relief so bending stresses don't get to the joint - if enough shrink tube is used, and if it's of good quality (RadioShack stuff is terrible IMO). I buy double walled shrink tube, the inner wall is glue so it waterproofs and forms a more durable bond. A properly soldered and shrink tube protected joint should not fail.

[mjuskiw]

I prefer a good solder joint myself, just simply the most reliable if done right.

My reccomendation would be based on your skill level. if you are comfortable with soldering do it : you will get the best joint.

If your not: use the crimp ons - but add the joint to your maintenace /inspection routine at least annually.

I spent a few years working for a commercial/military electric equipment and all these joints have a place and use. All will fail if done wrong or used improperly.

These days since I dont solder that often and dont want any issues. Ill solder four or five joints on scrap wire first and pull them apart. That way Im sure me and the tools are right.

However

I think that BMW reccomends the crimp on connectors.
I think this is due to the can-bus system and heat damage.
The factory is concerned about damage to the signal wire ect.
This most likely isnt an issue on an R1100GS.


mjuskiw
05 R1200GS
Akron Oh