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Thread: Trouble installing front shock on 1150RTp

  1. #1
    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Question Trouble installing front shock on 1150RTp

    Hello All,
    IÔÇÖm in the middle of installing a set of new ohlins on my R1150RT-P. IÔÇÖve just run into a bit of trouble on the front shock. Do the regular RT's have this weird little cross support ? IÔÇÖm concerned that it might only exist on my RT-P and that IÔÇÖll have to remove it to install the front shock. Not looking like fun. Darn
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  2. #2
    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Closer view

    Cross bar
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    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Another view
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    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Has anyone else ran across this before? I'm about to start stripping down the subframe for the crashbars, but wanted to check incase anyone had another time saving measure.
    Thanks
    DJStephens
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  5. #5
    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Unhappy

    I used to feel good about turning my own wrenches, but this little project is getting to me. It took less than 45minutes to do the rear shock. I've been fooling around with the front for over a day.
    Last edited by Djstephens; 10-14-2006 at 11:48 AM.

  7. #7
    25-MPH NEXT 1OO MILES PacWestGS's Avatar
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    Dj, that's some kind serious of crash protection, must be unique to the RT-P. Is the problem getting the rotation out of the shock body to remove it with the forks and telelever fully extended?

    I'm thinking that you may have to remove the bolts at the top of the fork tubes and let everything hang lower. Or,

    Another old time shock trick is to compress the shock spring all the way then tie it closed (with string or zip-ties) makes the whole shock body several inches shorter for install/removal.

    I don't see any clearence problems though, so you'll just have to figure out, out with the old in with the new.

    Good luck

    Keep us posted on the outcome.

    Doc
    Russ
    "If you took the time to really get to know me...you'd be wasting your time, because I'm exactly who you think I am"

    (Life comes at you pretty fast "Pay it Forward" - Have no regrets when the end happens)

  8. #8
    K12KOOP
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    Quote Originally Posted by Djstephens
    Hello All,
    IÔÇÖm in the middle of installing a set of new ohlins on my R1150RT-P. IÔÇÖve just run into a bit of trouble on the front shock. Do the regular RT's have this weird little cross support ? IÔÇÖm concerned that it might only exist on my RT-P and that IÔÇÖll have to remove it to install the front shock. Not looking like fun. Darn
    Get the rear end back together so it can sit on it. Jack the bike up in the center so the front wheel is about 4-5 inches off the ground. Support the front wheel with a strap or another jack. Loose the lower bolt on the front end and lower it down all the way and you should be able to slide it out the front. It is tight and you have to cant it a little but it worked for me.

    Two keys to remember support that front wheel or it will drop and could damage the pivot point and have some plan for picking it back up to install it. with a small floor jack it is a solo job. With out some way to raise it it is a two person job and one of you better be pretty strong.

    Hope that helps...

    Koop

  9. #9
    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SFDOC
    Dj, that's some kind serious of crash protection, must be unique to the RT-P.
    I'm thinking that you may have to remove the bolts at the top of the fork tubes and let everything hang lower. Or,
    Another old time shock trick is to compress the shock spring all the way then tie it closed (with string or zip-ties) makes the whole shock body several inches shorter for install/removal.
    Doc
    upon closer inspection, it seems that the crash bar sub frame is not allowing the lower part of the shock support to drop as far as it should.

    Ok, this helps a lot. Didn't realize I could compress this spring. I've got a 'make do' spring compression devise that I use on cars sometimes. Maybe I can make some forward process with this. Will zip-ties really hold this? Thanks for the great ideas guys. I'm off to scrape some skin off the knuckles!
    Last edited by Djstephens; 10-14-2006 at 10:58 PM.

  10. #10
    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Smile Made progress

    Thanks for your help Doc and Koop. Based on advice from you guys, I decided that the subframe needed to come apart. After romoving the mounting bolts in the photo, I had just enough room to get teh old shock out.
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  11. #11
    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    This is the bolt that allowed me to lower the bottom part of the sub frame, and give the clearance needed to lower the lower A-arm of the shock. Also had to loosen the exhaust primary pipe to get clearance to lower the sub frame enough to get the new shock in.
    Wow this was a much bigger job than anticipated.
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  12. #12
    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Don't know where I found this, but it really helped for removing the subframe if anyone else out there has an RT-P
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  13. #13
    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Here it is with the sub frame back together, not a lot of clearance though. I was able to fit a 6mm hex all the way around. Is 6mm enough?
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    Last edited by Djstephens; 10-15-2006 at 12:36 AM. Reason: forgot photo

  14. #14
    Dashpush DJSTEPHENS's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Thank you!

    Thanks for your help Doc and Koop!
    I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it.

  15. #15
    K12KOOP
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    Quote Originally Posted by Djstephens
    Thanks for your help Doc and Koop!
    You will love the new shocks. Take time to dial them in. It took me 3 days on Deals gap to get them just right.

    OK... I was more than happy to spend 3 days on the Gap!!!

    Koop

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