I've been following this subject on various boards since I bought my '94 a couple of years ago. Some early gearboxes last a very long time. Glad yours did, I hope mine does ! It seems that most...
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I've been following this subject on various boards since I bought my '94 a couple of years ago. Some early gearboxes last a very long time. Glad yours did, I hope mine does ! It seems that most...
Relax, they all do that. Some owners use thicker gear oil to reduce the rattle, others don't bother. The first symptom of something really wrong will be when it begins to feel as if the clutch...
I think you will find that there is too high a resistance in the low-fuel indicator circuit. The easy thing to check is for corrosion in the external electrical connector located under the tank and...
If the "crackling" is "pinging", that's definitely NOT a good thing. Something is wrong and needs to be fixed, persistant pinging can lead to all sorts of bad ( i.e. expensive) things.
I'm not familiar with the ST, but on the /6 I had, the spring loaded retraction "feature" could be eliminated in about 5 minutes. With the stand in the down position, if the LH engine mounting bolt...
Electrical tape is a whole lot better than masking tape, duct tape or Scotch tape !! Not everyone knows how to solder or use heatshrink-tubing.
Or in less technical lingo, cut both wires anywhere easily accessable, twist together the two bare ends, wrap with black tape, done !!
Don't be messin' with sealer !! A dry pressfit is all that is needed, sealer can only lead to a mis-fit and more leaks.
I think you will find that the pump is NOT always running. It runs at startup for a few seconds in order to buildup fuel pressure and then the pressure regulator shuts it off. I believe it cycles...
Back to the original post, my RID always reads about 2 bars low. When full, the top two bars do not come on. When the last bar goes off, I can put about 4.5 US Gal into the tank. The low fuel...
I think you are hearing the fuel pump in the gas tank.
The sight glass assembly is simply press fit into an opening in the engine case. Replacement is only a matter of pulling the old one out and pushing a new one in. The hardest part is deciding...
When you say "remove the calipers", I hope you mean only to unbolt the calipers from the fork tubes. The brake lines can be left intact with the calipers supported with wire ties to anything...
There is nothing difficult at all in replacing the bulbs. There are are lots of easy to remove parts that have to come off in order to get access but there are no special tools required, no special...
The guys over on the RT board sure devote a lot of bandwidth discussing issues of spline lube-ing RT's
:laugh
Just what is "loose" ? Loose like in loose steering head bearings, loose like mayber the front wheel kicks side to side going over a bump ? Underdamped maybe ?
K bikes are not really any...
Generally slower over a dialup connection, certainly not noticably faster, with more security wickets than my bank account site including ( I think ) TWO userID's and TWO passwords and at least one...
I recently had my first Z6 installed on my '94 18 inch rear by a M/C tire shop that I trust. There are three 7 gram weights and the valve stem is lined up with the tire dot marks.
All I can say is that in my case, I carefully disassembled all the parts after the "new" cable broke. All the moving parts were dirt free and well lubed and there was no sign of interference wear...
A couple of years back now, I was getting the bike ready for a week long trip and one of the "preventative maintenance" things I did was replace the clutch cable with a brand new one. The old one...
I find it curious that when most bikes went from two shocks to one, the average price per shock doubled.
Remember, you only need ONE shock ... ;) As for installation, it's trivially simple. Nothing else has to be removed except the RHS bag mount (if so equipped) and it can be done with the tool kit...
I have to agree with mikethebike. Most of the changes in motor oil in the past 10 years have been mandated by the EPA and the EPS's goals have nothing to do with prolonging engine life. Car...
If you had bent the rim while riding, you would absolutely know it. It takes ALOT of impact to bend a rim. That being said, its also hard to see how a tire change machine could produce enought...
What you describe is a classic bad clutch but I suspect that the slippage is due to oil contamination, not wear. K75 clutches are known to last darn near forever. Splines are a possibility however.