[QUOTE=DennisDarrow;892861]I really DO NOT understand the need to diminish other folks' advice, knowledge and recommendations; but each to their own needs.
Yes, it is understood quite well about the learning capabilities of various types of individuals and the various styles of completing various
"hands on" tasks. There are MANY ways to skin that particular cat. Next year will be the 40th year of the /6 750 and above engines that are equiped with carbs that have the capability of using vacuum guage equipment to adjust and synchronize. The method that YOU insist that all MUST use is a valid and real method that has been used on small engines of all types, cylinder configuration/number, and level of displacement. It is valid and real. All that I am trying to point out is that there are MANY ways to accomplish a task and NONE is wrong........
No one is suggesting to bring in some kind of device to move air over the engine that is in a decible range that will drown out what the engine is doing. Here on our farm we have several "fans" that are in the 3' to 4' range that move LOTS of air. There is no way that they "drown" out the subtle sounds that are required to adjust the idle and sync by feel, touch, sight, and sound. WHAT is important is the need to keep that engine cool while one "learns" the various methods required to tune carbs or engines. Again, there is NO right nor wrong about this "tuning" business. It's just what works best for YOU, the situation, and machine...........God bless..........Dennis[/QUOTE]
To quote Ronald Reagan, "There you go again!"
Talking about Dels, I gave up vacuum gauges, mercury sticks, water stacks and the like and simply went back to basics, as a member suggested couple years back. First very important that all air connections carb to cylinder head are air leak free. Any air leak will effect the mix. Cracked hoses and the like. I seal the cable to carb tops too with a wrap of silicone self sticking tape. Hopefully no air into mix except through the carb.
Next all jets and carb internals, stock as per manufacturer. figure that's what the engine guys came up with. Assuming valves are in adjustment, valves guides are good, rings are good, timing is spec, electrics are spec, valve seats are spec, and that's a lot to assume, move on to owner's manual.
Next check carb slides are exact same height check with the click method, check cables properly seated in their ends with no binding either end, this exact slide height is where the engine operates on the main jet over 3K rpm, same height?, very smooth. For idle adjustment start at owner's manual settings and as stated by others, I use the ear and hand since we don't don't idle down the road.
I think that we need to find someone who will sell expensive BMW Divining rods. Not only can they find underground water lines/streams, but they could double as carb adjustment tools. Just sit on the bike while it is running and the rod will "jiggle" on the side that the carb need the adjustment.
Sell them with a fancy name and people will buy them! Some people just can't resist buying something!
That's just me![/QUOTE]