98 R1100R Two Mode running
I have posted on this bike before. My new to me R1100R starts fine, runs a minute to 4 minutes then cr@ps out, by that I mean it goes into a mode where it emits smoke, soots the plugs, drops out ignition completely, then surges forward when throttle is opened. It may stop this and run good for 10 minutes then it returns, it is not rideable. The change in ride-ability is like a switch being thrown.
I have had suggestions: Oil temp sensor failure (no- Thanks rxcrider for the loaner), sync (no -spot on), valve adj (no -spot on), not fuel filter (replaced), not bad gas (removed and rinsed out), not hoses, not injectors, not hall sensors, not timing, not wiring (visual inspection and wiggle test), probably not wiring connectors (unplugged and replugged), new spark plugs, clean air filter and not anything two separately working former BMW master techs can find. BTW both have donated their time as they can't get it going, but I am gifting them a reward for effort.
Tuesday it goes into the local BMW dealer. The service manager asked if I had done a leak down test! I doubt this is the reason as when it runs it is strong, smooth, and accelerates like a gazelle in front of a lion. I guess I have to let them do one at $85/hr. I hope their diagnostic machine can find the problem.
Untested is the Engine Management Unit and the Throttle Position Sensor. I have both coming via ebay ($69 and $40- wow so cheap!) as the combined price new is $1600 (MaxBMW fiche). It looks like the EMU is an easy swop out, but the TPS would need to be set with the diagnostic machine and it will be in the shop anyway.
Could the Evaporative Emissions canister be the cause of this? I have read the Canisterectomy postings on .ADV forums and I am considering removal as I am desperate. I'll probably wait until the dealer has a go.
The bike is at one of the former tech's shop now. I haven't checked: grounding suggestion. It only has 6K on it and nothing outside of the bike looks even remotely warn, no chafed wires, no scuffs, no corrosion, it seems perfect.
I even called the 2nd owner and introduced myself to ask about its rid-ability in the past (it got a great review).
Anyone been through anything like this? What does the dealer's diagnostic machine tell? What am I missing here?
Picked my bike up this morning.
The ex-tech did the following and perhaps more as he had it for 9 days which were 50-65 degrees and rain! The bike was not next in line at his shop so 5 of those days were scheduling/weekend. I did miss it but probably would not have ridden much even if I had it back in a day. Here is what I know was done:
TPS adjusted... It was .405 volts and adjusted to .395 volts. (not quite on but would that be the issue?)
Replaced Yellow coding plug with Pink (which MaxBMW fiche lists as correct for R1100R). (again probably not a big enough change to explain the fix)
Swapped out exhaust for a another catalyst equipped one. (This surprised me as the old one seemed to be exhausting but it could cause a lot of issues)
Checked the Bowden cables (are 1998 cables teflon lined?)
Adjusted the fast idle lever- not really a choke
Tested bike with spare O2 sensor installed (no difference=O2 sensor is good)
Pulled the tank and "checked the wiring and connectors under there"
Checked air temp sensor, hall effect sensor(s), timing and in the tech's words "everything else"
Reset the EMU, unplugged fuse #5 for 5 minutes (perhaps not necessary as coding plugs are read on each startup)
Things that had previously been done (see above):
Valve adjustment (very good anyway-one slight adjustment)
Oil Temperature sensor swap
Fuel tank checked, filter replaced, hoses checked and found good, new gas.
-At this point it acts like a normal bike (thank goodness) starts right up, idles high or low consistent with fast idle, rideable in seconds, good acceleration and best at 3,500 rpm and above. It seems to me like it may be a bit rich-running but I do not have a CO tester and have little experience with this age bike so I may be wrong, and this is based on 15 minutes of riding so far.
-I don't think anything we have done by itself could explain the drastic change. Perhaps a wiggled wire or a bad connection was corrected inadvertently. The tech reported the coding plug and reset was the thing which brought the bike the big change and the exhaust change was to improve the response as the bike was being "held back" by something which he reported the exhaust change fixed. BTW he was very fair in his bill with time and parts. I would have spent as much at the dealer in about 3 1/3 hours time no saying their cost with parts.
-I plan to do the following:
Remove the still suspect evaporative canister and reroute the hoses to allow drainage of water and vapor.
Take a good long, mid-high speed ride and check the plugs for richness.
Reset the motronic 2.2 before the ride and then read out the stored codes after the ride.
Check/renew the chassis/engine grounds.
-I hope this repair holds. Thanks to all who replied and to the sites that have info on the coding plugs, TPS zero=zero, hall sensor repair, evaporative canister removal, motronic 2.2, and others.
I'd appreciate feedback.