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I did mention the fact that I had blocked the crank, and a picture is sure helpful. I have the white plastic block from Cycleworks ( [url]www.cycleworks.com[/url] ) he has some great tools! One end has threads on it the other bolt head, just screw it into the alternator hole until it is snug.
Now we all know that the battery has long ago been disconnected!!! Put the front cover back into place, or nearly so, I start the two top allens enough to hold the cover, then the bottom shorter one. As you can see in the picture the top just about closes but nearer the bottome there is a gap and that is because the blocking screw/bolt is extended a bit, that is okay. Just snug the bolts.
I feel it is the attention to detail that can make the difference in a good running bike and a great running bike that is reliable as well. When you remove the cover to take out the blocking screw/bolt make sure the rubber hose that protects the wire coming down from the condenser is properly in place. The rubber is slotted to fit perfectly into the engine case making a watertight seal. While a slash 5 does not have a vented front cover it may be less important. Slash 6's and slash 7's have a vent for cooling. This vent is also a way for water to enter during a heavy rain storm. If the rubber is not exactly in the slot then water can make its way into the points area. No need to go into the usual result of water and electrical connections, it usually means you will be looking for a ride. The picture shows the rubber piece pulled away from the engine case, this can easily happen when you remove the front cover. As you are re-installing the cover just use a light to shine in the tiny area before pushing in the cover, to must resistance and it is probably not seating right. Take your time, do it right and you will probably not be back in there for a couple of years or many thousands of miles. That is one cool thing about these airheads, do the job right and with care to detail and that job is done for perhaps a decade of riding.
Awesome and informative. Thanks for posting.
Thanks! Very good photos and advice. Nice to see how these tools are used also. I hope to be doing all of this soon. Still trying to remove screws from the clutch -4 of 6 so far.
A suggestion for next time - Assemble the clutch release lever etc onto the back of the transmission before the transmission-to-engine bolts are snugged up. Then release the clutch & tie the clutch handle to the pulled in position so that the clutch disk is free to move radially around the flywheel and the engine transmission can be "floated" into position.
This is to minimize any alignment error between the transmission and engine - just in case the clutch disk alignment tool doesn't give you a perfect alignment. This is probably most important for those of you who are just eyeballing the initial alignment.
I'm suspicious that poor alignment may be causing some of the clutch spline alignment and strip out problems - especially in the R11XX and higher bikes.
A really good set of explanations and pictures!
Nice write-up and pics... the only thing I would have mentioned is that, once the transmission is bolted up, place the swingarm with driveshaft as you have done, but PRIOR to installing swingarm bolts, re-attach the driveshaft. This is much more easily done with the swingarm housing slid aft as far as possible. Once bolted, THEN install the swingarm pivot bolts etc. Do the final torque on the four drive bolts later, when wheel is installed and everything is nicely blocked up.
Found this out when I was dis-mantling, after having read that it gives so much more clearance for the Four Buggers on the driveshaft!
:whistle
Great thread & timely as I'm in the throes of doing same procedure - still working on removing stuck flywheel - letting her sit with PB Blaster - next step is installing bar on flywheel to pull it off.
Maybe I'll service the swing arm bearing - looks like fun! You've definitely got some nice tools!
You don't really need the swing-arm tool, it is really cool to use and I have used it on another bike, my 1977 R100/7, plus some friends bikes so it is fun to have. But you can carefully pull the seal out without any damage. Then you will see just how old the grease looks in there! Once you do it that will be it for our lifetime, well just about. It is worth it especially since it's cold out side and what the heck else are you doing on the bike! Fun and rewarding project that should not get you into trouble. I always consider that.
You are welcome to shoot any concerns out and I will help.
kurt
Thanks Kurt - this is where I go to school to get my education - if you've got @14 minutes and want to see a video on removing a stuck flywheel check out bavarianmotortech - he's got a slew of DIY videos on You Tube - youll love his sense of humor:
Check out this video on YouTube:
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0GwMcAHWw8&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/url]