R75/5 Restoring Tool Tray?

Anyone have suggestions on restoring a tool tray? I know it seems inconsequential. I've removed the old gasket and cleaned all the old adhesive off of the tray. Its got some scratches/dings/etc on it. Was considering wet sanding at least an initial coat to remove the lighter marks in the tray (and any left over adhesive) and then polishing it up slightly.

Has anyone do anything to (at the very least) bring the color/darkness back on their tool trays for an r75/5 at all?


Also there is a slight crack in the front of the tool tray. Was wondering if there was a reasonable way to fix crack so that it is not noticeable (without having to paint/etc)



Cheers,

Jonathan

My /7 tool tray has never been cleaned in any manner...it hardly sees the light of day. The original rubber cushion around the edge is still in good shape. That is the only thing that would be important to keep water out. A crack needs to be fixed, but I suspect any general glue like a JBWeld product or even Gorilla Glue might do a good job...typically you're just sealing for moisture rather than trying to make structural repair.

You might try ABS cement for the cracks. I got some at my local home improvement store. Pretty cheap and it has seemed to work so far. If you have problems finding ABS cement, let me know.
As far as the scratches, you could always try wet sanding it with some super fine paper. I see that your probably in a different boat than me. But i just fixed the crack and figured that no one was ever going to see my tool tray. But i get the feeling your after a more concourse winning restoration than i was.

Good Luck

Chris Palmer
1982 R100RS

A small hijack, just to round-out the discussion. . .apologies ahead of time.

For those with a worn out tool-tray "nose" rubber, which I don't think can be bought at any price, this:

If you use some black RTV silicon, you can tastefully "coat" an otherwise roached-out rubber bit, and prolong its' life. I've used this trick on the very end of an Oilhead rubber footpeg, and have stood on it for over two years (yes, I get out on the edge a lot) and it has held up just fine even with this significant stress. Clean well with acetone (or similar solvent), and this stuff will stick like grim death.

Also - and I can't believe I disagree with Kurt, here. . .Gorilla Glue isn't as strong as a two-part product. I'm also a woodworker, and saw a magazine test of Gorilla Glue, right AFTER using GG to build a set of kitchen drawers (yikes). GG had it's simian ass kicked by Titebond III. Yes, this was on WOOD joints, but it made me look hard at GG, and I don't use it any more, for anything. Better choices out there.

GG TAPE is - by far - the best TAPE I've ever used - also saw a test of it against Duct Tape, etc., and it outstripped the competition by a long way.

Serious hijack: I need a tool tray for a '78 R100RS, with or without rubber, cracked or not.

Walking Eagle

I took the beat up one from my /7 and patched the big holes with JB weld and afetr a good sanding and smoothing with 600 grit I put Dupli-color DIY liquid bed-liner on the inside and used some VFR spray paint on the outside let it sit and cure for two or three. It looks great and will last another 30 years

have not tried it on my tool trays, but I did use 303 Aerospace Protectant Spray (I am a kayaker, and use it on rubber drysuit gaskets) on my Krauser Bags, which were getting all dried out and pale looking...sprayed it on and let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then wiped it down...amazing results....they look new now....same for the inner surfaces of my RT fairing....I bet it would really restore that plastic tool tray...

regarding the cracks...if they are on the edges or corners, ++ on the GG black tape...if on a flat surface, try some 1/8" or 1/16" adhesive-backed closed cell foam sheeting...cut to fit and peel and press to apply........I use the black high density stuff from North Shore Industries in Hood River, OR ([url]http://www.northshoreinc.com/[/url]) for all kinds of uses (padded the inside edges of my fairing where my knees contact...much better) now that I think of it, a layer in the bed of the tray would also help cushion the tool roll from rattling, etc...I will try it myself this winter as I catch up on my wrenching....

They're still available new for $33.

Anyone know the trick to getting a new gasket to STAY on the top edge of the tray?

I screwed up the first replacement gasket. I used glue and tried to do the whole gasket in one go. The gasket pulled away from those sharp corners in the back. My second time I took 3 or 4 days, gluing a section, clamping it with clothespins, letting it dry overnight, then moving on. Took some time, but worked.

Barron

I have used 3M super weatherstrippping glue with great success. It is yellow and works great. I even use it on my shoes when the sole separates from the shoe. It is available in any auto supply store.

[QUOTE]They're still available new for $33.[/QUOTE]

Northwoods Airheads was selling them for $33, but discontinued them in favor of a product made in the Vaterland. But the price is now $80 (no pics available yet).

I've done enough fiberglass work to know that they had to be losing money selling their tray for $33 ... not bigger than it is, that would have been a hellacious layup.

The old "new" tray:

[IMG]http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/sitebuilder/images/IMG_1297-1-426x307.jpg[/IMG]

I also used 3M Weather Strip Adhesive. I placed the joint on one side (so it wouldn't be flexing) and used quite a few strips of "blue" masking tape around the perimeter to hold that gasket down ... for a full [I]twenty-four[/I]hours ... just to be safe.

Keep in mind, patience is a virtue.

That's a great idea, one which never crossed by mind, lay it up yerself!

[QUOTE]That's a great idea, one which never crossed by mind, lay it up yerself! [/QUOTE]


There ya go 98! Truly the Renaissance Man! The old tool trays were compression molded fiberglass. I "repaired" mine by simply laminating a single layer of cloth (not mat) into the inside with epoxy laminating resin. The outside maintains it's original dimensions, and the interior... no one sees. Or jus' [I][B]whang[/B][/I] it out of T6062!!

Compatibility-wise, you can laminate against just about anything with epoxy, [I]and[/I], it doesn't shrink as much.

Evercoat makes a good one, and you can get it at most national hardware stores in quart sizes.

[IMG]http://static.acehardwareoutlet.com/225/products/1/1037043_071609i_rh.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=Lmo1131;828565]Northwoods Airheads was selling them for $33, but discontinued them in favor of a product made in the Vaterland. But the price is now $80 (no pics available yet).[/QUOTE]

The /5 tool tray is still available from BMW:
52 53 1 230 396 TOOL BOX 0.96 1 $89.90

The /6, /7, T, RS, RT, S, etc tool tray is also still available (and thankfully cheaper):
52 53 1 232 640 TOOL BOX 0.66 1 $33.32

Can't wait till my tooltray gets busted so I can make meself a new one out of what's laying around. Thanx Lew.

[QUOTE]Can't wait till my tooltray gets busted so I can make meself a new one out of what's laying around. [/QUOTE]

Never put off until tomorrow, what you can do today... . .. game on Brother! [img]http://boards.core77.com/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif[/img]