Gerbings or Warm-n-Safe question
Both of these companies pretty much insist that the controller needs to be hard wired to the battery. I'm wondering why. 12vDC to the controller is 12vDC to the controller as long as the wiring is heavy enough. I have a Fuzeblock that's getting power via 10ga wires. I'm thinking there's no reason I can't cut the wires to fit and route directly to my Fuzeblock. Yes, I'm aware that it voids the warranty. The only possible reason I can think of is that the length of the wires have some impact on impedence or voltage drop but this ain't no space shuttle we're talkin' about. Anyone know for sure what the reason is?:scratch
heated clothing wiring, etc
BJ_CT...I echo the welcome. Per other comment, using the Fuze Block, or another related product, as the source for the heated clothing power is not a big issue...as long as the respective circuit on the device is rated for the load, typically 15A or so, with the Gerbings harnesses.
I use different power distribution devices and all have one or two circuits dedicated or used for the 15A heated clothing service, via direct harness to the standard co-axial connector, which then connects to the heated clothing directly or via a controller, or from the power distribution device to an accessory plug (typically Powerlet) with a 15A minimum rating. This provides options where multiple connections might be needed as well.
For example the original newer generation Beemers are limited to 5A on the CANBus accessory outlets, whereas many of the new models now have a 10A rating on the accessory outlets, so they are viable for direct use with more heated clothing garments. But I always add one or two 15A circuits for the full load or heavier draw garments.