HEXHEAD Tech - R1200RT - Brake Fluid Change, 2007-current

[SIZE="3"][B][COLOR="Red"]The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.[/COLOR][/B]

[COLOR="Green"][B]Lastly, please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner. Most Auto Parts stores and service stations will accept used oil and lubricants, tires and batteries, please check for your local availability.[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]

[B]NOTE -[/B] you will be generating up to a pint or so of waste brake fluid, please ensure you dispose of in an environmentally responsible manner.
[B][COLOR="Green"]RECYCLE NOTE[/COLOR][/B]: for proper disposal of waste fluid please refer to this link to find approved recycling centers in your area [url]http://earth911.com/[/url] - special thanks to Ted for providing the link.

[B]NOTE -[/B] you will be working near and with brake dust, recommend that you use gloves to protect your hands and a dust mask to protect your lungs.

[B]NOTE -[/B] brake fluid DAMAGES paint - please ensure all work areas are properly protected in the event of a spill

This article, text and photos are Copyright of the individual authors and the BMW MOA, any copying or redistributing is permitted only by prior written authorization.

Tools Needed:

Referencing the picture below and starting from the top:

- 3/8" drive click type torque wrench

- 3/8" drive T spanner (optional)

- 8mm Combination wrench

- 6 mm Combination wrench

- 3/8" drive flexible rachet

- T45 Torx Socket

- 3" 3/8" extention

- small straight blade screwdriver

- 6" straight blade screwdriver

- 2 3/8" extensions (optional)

- #2 Phillips

- 1 can of DOT 4 Brake Fluid

- Mighty Vac, or equivalent

- 2mm id tube with adaptor - used for the Front Brake Master Cylinder

[B] Note -[/B] purchased tubing at pet store - used commonly for fish tanks

[B]Brake Fluid Replacement Procedure Overview.[/B]

This procedure addresses replacing the fluid in 4 specific locations.

Following the order as indicated in the repair CD you

- Fluid replacement of the Front Brake Reservoir

- Fluid replacement of the Right then Left Front Calipers

- Fluid repacement of the Rear Brake Reservoir

- Fluid replacement of the Rear Caliper

[B]FLUID REPLACEMENT - [COLOR="Blue"]FRONT RESERVIOR[/COLOR][/B]


Place bike on centerstand in a smooth and level location.

Prep the area to be worked on - as brake fluid can damage paint, i use a full towel and cover the whole area as shown

Set the brake lever to maximum span.

First write down the orginal span setting

Push lever forward and then adjust the wheel to the Number 4 positon

The number 4 position is the maximum span setting

Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove these four screws

Once the screws are removed, remove the cover.

Note - you may find the cover difficult to remove especially if this is the first time taking the cover off.

What I did to remove my cover was to use a small straight slot screwdriver and very gently twist to pry up, it did not take alot of force - just enough to break the seal.

Remove the cover and set aside.

I also seperated the rubber inner gasket from the back of the cover to be able to clean it prior to re-assembly

Nasty fluid - this is about year and a half old fluid

[B]IMPORTANT NOTE[/B] - if you are not replacing your brake pads at the same time of this fluid change - remember how much fluid the reservior has.

It is important at the final refill portion - so as not to overfill the reservior.

Remove the fluid using a mighty vac or similar device.

Please note that i did not completely remove all the fluid, as i did not want the fill hole to be uncovered.

Now the actual fluid replacement process begins.

Using an UNOPENED bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid fill the reservoir (most mechanics will not use fluid from a bottle that has been opened previously. They feel the fluid starts to go bad as soon as the seal on the bottle is broken.)

Note - brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture once exposed to air. As water is absorbed it lowers the boiling point of the fluid. Keep the bottle tightly capped when it's not being used.

Below is what I used. DO not use DOT-5, its silicone based and not recommended for ABS equipped brake systems. Some people use DOT 5.1 - which is a better version of DOT-4 and is fully compatible with DOT-4. DOT 5.1 has a higher boiling temperature. BMW suggests using DOT-4.

Once you have refilled the front reservior with fresh fluid it is time now to bleed the reservior.

Note - the bleed nipple on the reservior is smaller than the ones on the brake calipers, therefore I needed to get smaller tubing than I had. I went to my local pet store and in the Fish deprtment I selected some 2mm ID tubing.

I then used one of the assorted couplings in the mighty vac and created this section of tubing.

There are other solutions - this is what I had on hand

To bleed the reservior, connect the small ID tubing to the reservior nipple.

Using a 6mm combination wrench, open the nipple a little bit and apply vaccum to draw the old fluid out.

Set up shown below: