HEXHEAD Tech - R1200X - Valve Adjustment - All Years

Shown below are the gaskets associated to the valve cover.

These parts will later be cleaned and properly mounted during re-assembly.

Highlighted is the circular gasket for the spark plug shown earlier

REMOVING THE SPARK PLUG

I use an extended socket I obtained from Harbor Freight - there are different solutions to this I opted for this one.

Socket information below:

Plug Removal.

In preparation for the valve adjustment, it is a good idea to have both covers off and the spark plugs out.

At this point you can continue to the valve adjustment section - [COLOR="RED"][U]The next step, removal of the secondary spark plug is optional.[/U][/COLOR]

Detailed next is the location and removal of the Secondary spark plug.

Note - it is not required to remove the secondary plug to adjust the valves.

Location of spark coil for the secondary plug is shown highlighted in green.

You remove this cover to remove the spark coil

Please note that one of the screws is missing as that is also used for the Cylinder cover.

Once cover is removed you have full access to the spark coil and you can pull it off.

No special tools needed to remove this spark coil, grasp it and pull down gently.

Final point of secondary plug.

The plug is not vertical in the head - something to note for re-assembly

VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

1 - set respective cylinder to TDC

2 - adjust valve to specified gap

3 - repeat for other cylinder

Once complete with item 3 the valve adjustment procedure is complete and this is followed by a TBS - Throttle Body Sync.

4 - reassemble bike

[B]Setting the cylinder to TDC.[/B]

[COLOR="Red"]It is [B]CRITICAL [/B]that the respective cylinder to have it's valves adjusted be at [B]TDC (Top Dead Center)[/B]
To do so you need to position the drive train in two specific locations by "bumping" the transmission for each respective cylinder.[/COLOR]

[COLOR="blue"]It is[/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"][B]CRITICAL[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR="Blue"]that when the transmission is bumped the "[B]bumping[/B]" is done with the rear wheel going in the [B]Drive direction[/B].[/COLOR]

[B]How to bump:[/B]

1 - Turn ignition on but DO NOT start bike

2 - With the Instrument Panel illuminated watch the gear indicator and put the transmisson in 6th Gear

3 - Turn ignition off

Now bump the rear wheel [B][U][COLOR="Red"]in the direction of travel [/COLOR][/U][/B]until the required alignment mark is reached to adjust the specific valve train.

[B]Adjusting the [B][COLOR="Blue"]CLUTCH SIDE [/COLOR][/B]Valves[/B]

Bump the bike in gear until you see the following alignment mark shown below.

[B]It needs to be at the 3 o'clock position[/B] - if you missed it - bump the engine around until you get it - [B]DO NOT BUMP BACKWARDS[/B]!

Please note the alignment marks are only visible from the Throttle-side cylinder

It does not matter which valves you adjust first - I selected the Exhaust.

[COLOR="Blue"][B]SPECIAL PROCESS NOTE[/B] - before you loosen the lock nuts make sure that the valve train has some minor movement. Meaning that you can grab a set of valve followers and move them up and down and you will hear and feel some clicking as the valve train moves - this is an other supporting indication for TDC[/COLOR]

With the engine in the correct position to adjust the Clutch side valves - gently loosen the 10mm lock nuts as shown, you want them so they are just loose - not unscrewed.

The exhaust valves require a 0.30mm clearance.

Below shows the placement of the feeler gauge.

I use BMW gauges

[B]Adjustment process[/B]

Get's a little busy but what you do is:

- with the feeler gauge checking the drag

- adjust the 3mm hex to get a nice steady drag

- tighten the 10mm wrench and check the drag again - [B]DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN [/B]- as you can strip out adjuster;[COLOR="Blue"] Using three fingers and a short grab on the wrench will be enough[/COLOR]

Please note the addition of the second feeler gauge - this is placed to ensure that the rocker does not move during the adjustment.

When complete swap positions and repeat.

Repeat as neccesary until the drag tension on each exhaust valve is as close to each other as possible.

May take a few minutes - do not rush - take your time.

Once complete with the step above do a double check by simultaneously checking the drag with both hands; confirm the tension of the feeler gauges are equal – if neccesary adjust, else you have completed the exhaust side clutch valves and can proceed to adjust the clutch side intake valves.