HEXHEAD Tech - R1200XX - Rocker Arm End Play Adjustment - All Years

[SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.[/COLOR][/B]

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[B][COLOR="Red"][FONT="Arial"][SIZE="5"][U]Disclaimer - Caution[/U]: This procedure is usually done by the dealership at the 600 mile check. It should only need to be done once. To that point the Rocker Arm gap tolerance should only need to be checked to confirm it is in specification.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]

[B][COLOR="Red"][FONT="Arial"][SIZE="5"][U]Disclaimer - Caution[/U]: It is critical that the engine be at TDC (Top Dead Center) for the measurements to be made.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]

[B][COLOR="Red"][FONT="Arial"][SIZE="5"][U]Disclaimer - Caution[/U]: If you do need to do this adjustment it is critical that the engine be at TDC (Top Dead Center) for the adjustments to be made.[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/B]

This article, text and photos are Copyright of the individual authors and the BMW MOA, any copying or redistributing is permitted only by prior written authorization.

[B]Rocker Arm Clearance Check[/B]

Please refer to the Valve Adjustment DIY for information in how to get the bike to this test state, i.e. plastic removed, valve covers off, spark plug(s) removed, etc. This can be found at:

[url]http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33462[/url]

First - we should check is to confirm if the rocker clearance is in specification or requires adjustment.

To check the CLUTCH Side (left) put the TDC marker in the following position:

A fast clearance check can be done during a valve adjustment when the rocker arm is in position for the valve clearance to be adjusted.

Try moving the rocker up and down, and rocking it. If you hear a "clack" when it moves up/down, it is too loose. It should make a small click noise or no noise at all.

It should also "rock" (rotate around the shaft) with no resistance within the range allowed by having the cylinder at TDC/valve adjust position.

A final confirmation is done by measuring the gap.

[B]The specification is 0.05mm to 0.40 mm[/B]

If the measurement falls within this range you are good on this cylinder and you can now check the Throttle side (Right Cylinder next)

To check the throttle side rocker arm clearance, bump the engine in the drive direction until you reach this mark and place at the 3 o'clock position.

Check in the same manner as was done on the clutch side.

[B]Specification is the same 0.05mm to 0.40mm[/B]

If in spec - continue with valve adjustment, if out of tolerance - continue to adjust.

[B]To adjust the rocker[/B], you need to have the engine at TDC for the appropriate cylinder to adjust.

Refer to the previous images to set the engine to TDC for the cylinder you want to adjust.

The three bolts and one nut are loosened (NOT REMOVED) for this adjustment.

The Yellow Torx are T-45

The Green Nut is a 15mm

[B][COLOR="Red"]IMPORTANT NOTE [/COLOR][/B]- it is [B][U]normal and correct [/U][/B]for the highlighted stud bolt to stick out further than the other stud bolts. Refer to [B][COLOR="Blue"]BLUE[/COLOR][/B] Highlight
[B][U]DO NOT [/U][/B]thread this in further as there is a engine oil passage behind the bolt and you will cause engine damage if the stud is threaded in too far. There is NO NEED to touch this nut/bolt during the following procedure.

[B]Adjustment[/B]

To adjust the rocker clearance the bolts and nut should be snug, not loose, else you will not be able to retain the adjustment.

Also note that once you have reached your desired value and tighten the rocker to specification you need to double check your measurement value as it can change during the torque sequence.

Shown below is adjusting the gap if it is too large.

The hammer used is the smallest I have (8 oz.) and I [B][I][COLOR="Blue"]LIGHTLY[/COLOR][/I][/B] tap it up to close the gap.

I can not emphasis [B][U]light[/U][/B] tap enough.

Tap down if it is too tight

Again [B][U]light[/U][/B] tap with your smallest hammer

[B]Tightening and Final Torque[/B]

When tightening - the clearance almost always changes, so it may be necessary to make the adjustment more than once if the clearances change as the bolts are tightened down.

In general - the smaller Torx bolts holding the bridge to the head should be tightened first, and the final head bolt torquing saved for last.

The Torx Bolts - the three green highlighted bolts get torqued to [B]18 Nm[/B]. After tightening them - make sure the clearance you just adjusted didn't change.

[B]The Head Bolt/Nut Tightening.[/B]

The nut on this head bolt is tightened in 3 distinct steps because the final sequence is a Torque-Angle. Highlighted in purple below

1 - tighten with a torque wrench to 20Nm

2 - using a normal wrench tighten it an additional 90 degrees

3 - tighten the head bolt again for 90 degrees (for a total of 180 degrees.)

4 - recheck the clearances

[COLOR="Blue"]This completes this cylinder (clutch side), now do the exact same thing for the other cylinder ([U][COLOR="Black"]if needed.[/COLOR][/U]) [/COLOR]-
[B]make sure you set [U][SIZE="3"]TDC for the other cylinder first[/SIZE][/U][/B] [B]before conducting adjustment[/B]

Once that is complete you can continue with the valve adjustment