Printable View
[b]1954 R68
<img border=1 width=750 src=http://bmwdean.com/r68-792.jpg>
1954 R51/3
<img border=1 width=750 src=http://bmwdean.com/ts-r51.jpg>
1955 R67/3
<img border=1 width=750 src=http://bmwdean.com/r67-792.jpg>
1967 R69S
<img border=1 src=http://bmwdean.com/r69s-left.jpg>
1967 R60/2
<img border=1 src=http://bmwdean.com/scarlett-right-750.jpg>
1967 R60/2
<img border=1 width=750 src=http://bmwdean.com/iowa-tucson.jpg>
[/b]
[IMG]http://kbasa.smugmug.com/photos/217568298_c6cWK-XL.jpg[/IMG]
:D :D :D
1967 R60
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j290/b14ny/mcy/DSC_4822.jpg[/IMG]
The fleet
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j290/b14ny/mcy/DSC_4840-1.jpg[/IMG]
[img]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j290/b14ny/mcy/DSC_4835.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j290/b14ny/mcy/DSC_5065.jpg[/img]
66 R69S
<a href="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j290/b14ny/mcy/?action=view¤t=sj.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j290/b14ny/mcy/sj.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
My other "airhead"
1953 R51/3
[img]http://darryl.crafty-fox.com/mcpics/2007/R51-3/slides/P3054039.JPG[/img]
Another view
[img]http://darryl.crafty-fox.com/mcpics/2007/R51-3/slides/P3054036.JPG[/img]
1928 R52
[img]http://darryl.crafty-fox.com/mcpics/2008/LotM/Lars/2464476440_cae78bfe01_o.jpg[/img]
Love this old girl... runs like a champ, has had great care over the years... original paint on the fenders and tank, some "touching up" and repaint of frame, etc etc. All in all, a real keeper!
Bob Peckham
Vero Beach FL
1966 R50/2
Sorry, cannot get photo to load...
Bob Peckham
This is my 1966 R50/2.....glamour shot!
Here's my '66. Almost finished with a basic resto. Needs fine tuning. Awful hard to get those carbs balanced, even with my $4 carb balancer tool!
I visited the Sinsheim (Germany) Technical Museum last week and, among all the planes, trains, cars and bikes, I found this...
[QUOTE=lbrackr756;335882]Here's my '66. Almost finished with a basic resto. Needs fine tuning. Awful hard to get those carbs balanced, even with my $4 carb balancer tool![/QUOTE]
How are you able to use the $4 tool on those early carbs? You must have a vacuum takeoff port specially machined into them. My /2 carbs don't have any such port...I've seen pictures of carbs with this done, but I'm not too sure I want to mess with original equipment.
[QUOTE=20774;336093]How are you able to use the $4 tool on those early carbs? You must have a vacuum takeoff port specially machined into them. My /2 carbs don't have any such port...I've seen pictures of carbs with this done, but I'm not too sure I want to mess with original equipment.[/QUOTE]
I bought a pair of special carb to head gaskets that had ports glued into them by the guy making and selling them. I think it was on EBay but not sure. They work but the suction on both sides agitates the oil in the gauge tubes so much that readings are almost impossible. Maybe I should use heavier oil in the gauge tubes?
[QUOTE=lbrackr756;336263]I bought a pair of special carb to head gaskets that had ports glued into them by the guy making and selling them. I think it was on EBay but not sure. They work but the suction on both sides agitates the oil in the gauge tubes so much that readings are almost impossible. Maybe I should use heavier oil in the gauge tubes?[/QUOTE]
Interesting... I've heard people mention the bouncing of the liquid...I believe some kind of snubber or restriction in the lines is needed to reduce the pulsing. I have an electronic balancing unit, the TwinMax. It's a differential measurement system and shows when the two sides are not equal or a deviation from 0.
[QUOTE=20774;336929]Interesting... I've heard people mention the bouncing of the liquid...I believe some kind of snubber or restriction in the lines is needed to reduce the pulsing. I have an electronic balancing unit, the TwinMax. It's a differential measurement system and shows when the two sides are not equal or a deviation from 0.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I'm thinking of a bolt shank with a small hole drilled thru it that's just the right size to slide up inside the hose on each side. This should restrict pulses but still let the gauge work. I'll let you know....
Put an adjustable needle valve in the hose close to the carb. As you close down the valve, it will allow less of the pressure pulse into the end of the tube containing the oil. There's a trade-off between having small pulsations and quick response to manifold vacuum changes.
I'm ready for more pics.