BMW MOA - Flying Brick K-bikes

BMW MOA - Flying Brick K-bikes http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/ 3 and 4 cylinder longitudinally mounted engine, 1985-2004 plus all K-LT models to present. en Wed, 16 May 2012 14:02:28 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/images/approx/misc/rss.jpg BMW MOA - Flying Brick K-bikes http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/ 87 K100RS headlight bulb replaced http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60579&goto=newpost Wed, 16 May 2012 13:06:28 GMT Decided to replace my 60w 55 Bosch bulb since it seemed to be very dim. Replaced it with a 100/80w. took her for a 30 minute spin after dark and what a difference! After reading about all the dangers of running higher wattage bulbs without relays and heavier wiring I changed it out for the 60/55w... Decided to replace my 60w 55 Bosch bulb since it seemed to be very dim. Replaced it with a 100/80w. took her for a 30 minute spin after dark and what a difference! After reading about all the dangers of running higher wattage bulbs without relays and heavier wiring I changed it out for the 60/55w Sylvania SilverStar Ultra which is as bright as the the 100/80. It says Osmar Sylvania on the package which I guess is a good thing. Very happy with the new upgrade. ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes birddogone http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60579 K75 high beam switch burn out http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60551&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 10:43:35 GMT I've heard that the high beam switch can burn. If true, is this because the wiring for the high beam goes through the handlebar switch and it gets too hot? If so, would it be a good idea to add a high beam relay? ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes walterK75 http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60551 New to me 2001 K1200RS http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60543&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 01:18:26 GMT Hi Everyone, I have just moved to my first BMW K model from a Kawasaki 900 Classic MC. The bike came with all the maintenance stamps listed for the 600, 6000, 12,000 and 18,000 mile check-ups and has 21,400 miles currently showing on the clock. I would consider this to be low miles based on... Hi Everyone,
I have just moved to my first BMW K model from a Kawasaki 900 Classic MC. The bike came with all the maintenance stamps listed for the 600, 6000, 12,000 and 18,000 mile check-ups and has 21,400 miles currently showing on the clock. I would consider this to be low miles based on what I have viewed in the market place over the last 6 months or so. I intend to take it in for the 24000 mile check at the dealer where she has been regularly serviced, but wonder if there is something I should be looking at before I put another the additional 3600 miles on her to get to the 24000 service interval. I've put about 600 miles on her since picking up, and probably will have the additional miles by the end of June. I usually do my own wrenching, but want to get a base line before digging into her....Any suggestions....?

]]> Flying Brick K-bikes weschmann http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60543 1985 K100 Low Speed Hesitation http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60539&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 00:59:32 GMT *Issue: * At constant throttle below 2500 rpm the bike will buck. It does not occur on acceleration or deacceleration. Above 2500 rpm the engine performs very well and pulls strong all the way to redline. Also, over the past 10,000 miles the fuel mileage has dropped from 41mpg to 36 mpg. (I... Issue: At constant throttle below 2500 rpm the bike will buck. It does not occur on acceleration or deacceleration. Above 2500 rpm the engine performs very well and pulls strong all the way to redline. Also, over the past 10,000 miles the fuel mileage has dropped from 41mpg to 36 mpg. (I calculate every tank. There have been no changes in my riding style or commute route.) The only problem with the bike is the bucking below 2500 rpm at constant throttle. It occurs in any gear but is most noticable in 1st and 2nd. At idle there is an occasional drop in idle speed of 200 rpm every 20 seconds or so.
Background: I purchased my 1985 K100 two years ago. According to the inspection tag it had not run in 10 years. Based on the paperwork that came with the bike and the bike’s condition I believe the current mileage to be around 20,000. (I’m aware of the common odometer failures.) I performed the following items before putting the bike back on the road: new fuel pump, new fuel filter and strainer, replaced gas tank, cleaned the fuel injectors, swapped batteries from my R80RT and installed new tires. The bucking issue was not obtrusive when I first started riding the bike. I believe it has become worse over the last 10,000 miles.
Attempted Solutions: Valve adjustment, new fuel injectors, new fuel filter and strainer (again), new crack case breather hose, new air filter, new spark plugs, I cleaned out the gas tank, and I’ve checked for vacuum leaks with small amounts of WD-40 around the throttle bodies. I even purchased a Sync-Pro Vacuum gauge to balance the throttle bodies. The vacuum was fairly balanced. The vacuum adjustments I made did not seem to help. I did notice that the throttle dips at idle seem to affect the vacuum on the number four throttle body the most.
Additional Note: I’m having trouble adjusting the idle and choke so that there is free play in the choke cable yet enough tension to open the choke fully during cold starts.
Does anybody have any ideas on a remedy? What do I check next?

Thanks! ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes dinandan http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60539 K series luggage mounting rack bolts http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60537&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 00:19:32 GMT I've just bought a left side "Z" luggage mounting rack and I think it came with the wrong fasteners. There's a total of four bolts, the top two I've got figured out but could someone with experience tell me what size and style the bottom two are supposed to be (the ones next to the footpeg)?. RealOEM only confused me http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/images/smilies/dunno.gif

The two bolts I have are partly threaded M6 40mm's, but because of the partial threading they "bottom out" before being fully seated in the indent. In the attached pic (sorry for the blurriness) the right bolt is as tight as it's going to get and it's not flush by about the length of the head.

TIA!

Jason
1995 K75

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]]> Flying Brick K-bikes jcorkum http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60537 1991 K100RS - Brake Problems, Help! http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60530&goto=newpost Mon, 14 May 2012 20:19:46 GMT I recently purchased a 1991 K100RS with ABS from a private owner. While riding it home after purchase, I noticed that the front brake lever would feel really stiff when I pressed it. Furthermore, it feels like the front caliper would bite the rotor when the brake is squeezed, but is very slow to... I recently purchased a 1991 K100RS with ABS from a private owner.

While riding it home after purchase, I noticed that the front brake lever would feel really stiff when I pressed it. Furthermore, it feels like the front caliper would bite the rotor when the brake is squeezed, but is very slow to release the rotor. In some instances, if I use the front brake, then pull in the clutch, the front brake seemed to continue braking, even though I was not pressing the front brake.

Thought some clean brake fluid to the front end would fix it. Bled the front brakes with a pressure bleeder, added fresh fluid… but still having same problem. Friends and family are suggesting it's either ABS problem or calipers need to be rebuilt.

Well, today I was riding the bike and another fellow biker flagged me down. Told me that my rear brake light was always on. Bad news. So now it looks like there could be 2-3 different things going on causing this front brake problem. Before I go and take it to the BMW dealer and pay them too much money… anyone have any ideas what could be causing this, or what needs to be fixed?

Any insight here would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks so much all! ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes charlesdonahue http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60530 <![CDATA['93 K75 Front Brakes locked!]]> http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60498&goto=newpost Sun, 13 May 2012 15:11:49 GMT Last week I went on a two day trip with the K and it performed flawlessly. Two days after returning I washed the bike in the driveway then returned to garage and put it on the centerstand. That was two days ago. Just now, tried to move bike and I can't even get off center stand because front brakes are locked - front tire won't move AT ALL. Tried to move a few times and nothing. Pulled in front brake handle and it feels completely normal - usual resistance, etc. No idea what's going on but the calipers are definitely locked down.

Any ideas what happened/how to fix? I don't know much about brakes so I'm not sure where to start. I can't even get the bike off it's centerstand to take to shop because of the locked front wheel! Pic below (but likely of no help)...

]]> Flying Brick K-bikes Recker1 http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60498 <![CDATA[Swap a K75RT for K75S Final Drive& Drive Shaft?]]> http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60468&goto=newpost Sat, 12 May 2012 13:00:36 GMT Can you put the final drive and driveshaft from a '95 K75RT with ABS into '94 K75S with ABS? :confused:
During my yearly spline lube on my '94 K75S I found the ''male' final gear drive quite dry and all the Honda moly that I applied last year seemed to have flung off and splattered around the cavity and turned from gray to a rusty red. Needless to say they are quite worn and so is the driveshaft. Any ideas what happened? The tranny and gear drive fluid levels haven't gone down. I've used the Honda Moly for years and never had it do this before and it stayed put on the tranny end of the driveshaft. Could it be a torn boot and moisture getting in?
Off it goes to Brunos for repair but to limit my down-time I was wondering if I can use a driveshaft and final drive from a '95 K75RT while I wait to get mine back? I also have an old non-ABS K75S would that usable?
Thanks for any help ya'll can provide! ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes 128465 http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60468 <![CDATA[HELP save it or let it DIE! (85' k100rs)]]> http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60460&goto=newpost Fri, 11 May 2012 22:38:57 GMT Ok peeps, it's up to you now, I have reached the end of the road with my much loved brick.

It has a starting gremlin ... no one in my part of the country seems to be able to sort this...won't spin... losing 2-4amps between the starter and the batt...I assume this is due to broken/bare leads inside the harness...or maybe those pesky relays.( anyone know how to test the buggers?) starter is good, batt is a new gel unit. I have a used harness that appears to be in better shape (maybe) than mine and I am now trying to decide if I want to invest another nickle or hour in this puppy or just PART OUT THE DAMN THING OUT and be FREE OF IT MWHAHAHAHAHAH! (....sorry, it's getting to me.)

btw....the bike is in PERFECT mechanical condition, only 70K on the speedo...I really hate to chop it up, but currently it is an oversize boat anchor.

If ANYONE has done a total harness transplant PLEASE give me a step by step. I am a decent wrench but electronics baffle me. As you know the the '85 is a true BASTARD (mostly analog with just enough digital to make it incomprehensible)

What I would LOVE to do is eliminate the Instrument cluster and simplify the entire system but I have NO idea where to separate out the EFI from the basic ignition/starting circuit. Anyone done this?

So, help me out people...or make me an offer 'cause it's getting resolved this summer! A brick is a terrible thing to waste.

jbrooks ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes 2old2rockNroll http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60460 <![CDATA[Barn Find '95 K75]]> http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60368&goto=newpost Mon, 07 May 2012 00:28:37 GMT I just bought (but have not yet brought home) a '95 K75 for $500. It has been stored in a shed on a farm for the past three years. It has 45k miles and looks to be in excellent condition. It comes with two sets of BMW bags (one regular and one city bag set), a stock seat and a Corbin seat, two sets of handlebars, and some tools, manuals, and a few parts. The former owner said he started it about a year ago. He said it was hard to start. He changed plugs, and it started. I believe it has Sta-bil in the fuel tank.

Is there anything I should look for in a situation like this? I hope to restore the bike, and perhaps sell it someday. I presently have an '08 R1200RT and a '78 R80/7. K- bikes, especially the early ones, are new to me. ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes tlcoulter http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60368 K75S 1990 windscreen http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60347&goto=newpost Sat, 05 May 2012 21:26:40 GMT The standard screen is pretty small, so I bought the AeroFlow screen for the K75. Not really happy with it. Still loud and bumpy at around 70 mph. Not as good as the standard screen on my former R850R. I'm only 5'9" and I thought this would do it. Should have written this post before I spent the money...

What would I like? less buffeting on the helmet. A little quieter and calmer at highway speeds. Something that isn't huge.

Anyone have experience with Parabellum or other screens? Would it help to put on a Lamar lip?

thanks ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes plehman http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60347 1986 k75t http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60316&goto=newpost Fri, 04 May 2012 11:59:59 GMT Hello. I just acquired an '86 K75T and I gotta say it's awesome. I've owned a K100RS & a K1100RS and I wanted to see what the fuss was about the K75. Now I see. I love it. Low mileage and well taken care of over the years. Really, really comfortable. I just bought some highway pegs to mount on the crash bars and a new OEM windscreen. Maybe fork boots and an injector cover? Any words of wisdom about the bike? Recent work includes: new front springs & rear shock, new tires, new "fuel deliveries", injectors professionally redone, valve adj., tune up & fluids, splines lubed, new front brakes, new battery.

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]]> Flying Brick K-bikes BBKME http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60316 Size of rivets in type3 Integral body latch http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60282&goto=newpost Thu, 03 May 2012 01:38:20 GMT Greetings,

Does anyone know what size rivets are needed to re-attach the latches onto a type3 pannier? If it makes a difference it's the latch that secures the bag to the mounting frame. TYIA

Jason ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes jcorkum http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60282 <![CDATA['85 K100RT Cruise control?]]> http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60280&goto=newpost Wed, 02 May 2012 22:53:24 GMT Any experience with after market cruise control for older K bikes? Is one even available that is worth putting on? Thanks Any experience with after market cruise control for older K bikes? Is one even available that is worth putting on?

Thanks ]]> Flying Brick K-bikes oldnslow http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60280 <![CDATA['92 k75rt top box ?]]> http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60250&goto=newpost Tue, 01 May 2012 20:16:40 GMT Anyone know of a supplier for a fiberglass topbox, rough dimensions 18" wide,
13"high, 17" front to back? Mine has been patched so many times it's suffering from asbestosis !
Thanks,
Ian

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]]> Flying Brick K-bikes scoobs http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60250