View Full Version : tank removal on r1200r 08

04-14-2009, 08:54 PM
actually doing front and rear spring/shock replacement. wife wanted her bike lower so i ordered new complete set from hyper pro. is there anything crazy i should watch out for? i have not done much work on this bike (only 1000 miles) but have turned a few wrenches on almost everything else. any insight would be great.

04-14-2009, 10:38 PM
Craig - check this link for removing the tank.


I did it on my bike an RT but the fittings and connections should be very much the same.

You need to support the front of the bike if you take the front shock out - scissor jack or something to that effect under the engine.

I also swapped out the shocks on my wifes bike R1200ST, and the only thinng to be aware of is being able to retighten the top nut of the front shock, as it tightens onto the shaft of the shock so it will spin.

The rear is real easy.

04-15-2009, 02:55 AM
Luckily - the R1200R tank is a snap - and doesn't have to be fully removed to install the front shock.

First remove the two black plastic trim bits that dress up the bike between the tank and the throttle bodies. Both are held on by 2 T-25 screws going into odd rubber-mounted nuts that connect to the bottom lip of the fuel tank. They also have a single rubber covered pin that goes upward into the plastic trim around the base of the seat.

Remove the seat.

Next remove the screws for the plastic trim around the seat where it fastens to the tank. You can remove all the screws and remove the entire plastic bits (good time to clean/wax them,) or just the front screws attaching them to the tank.

Now remove the 4 screws (T-25 again) that hold the plastic cover across the front of the tank (sort of behind the steering head.) Two screws go in from the front, two from the bottom. Pull the plastic forward (not necessary to remove it - but you can if you want.) Be care of the throttle cable which goes through the plastic piece in a slot with a grommet. If removing the plastic - wiggle the grommet out and slide the throttle cable up the slot.

Finally - remove the tank to frame retaining bolt - it's on the left (clutch) side behind the first plastic panel you removed - and from memory is a T-45 bolt.

Finally - at this point, you can lift the rear of the tank slightly, and move it backwards far enough to reveal the top mounting point for the front shock. It's not necessary to disconnect any hoses or wiring. I move it about 2" back.

IF your bike still has the charcoal cannister - replacing the shock will be MUCH easier with the cannister and mounting out of the way. The mount bolts to the frame with several Torx screws. Mark the hoses for reassembly.

Before removing the shock, you must support the weight of the front of the bike, using a jack under the engine. You'll find it easier to remove the shock if you lift the front end a few inches (using the jack under the engine) once the upper nut is off the shock mounting. Do not loose the rubber mounts for the shock - you'll reuse them on the new shock - and make note of how they were fitted.

The bottom shock bolt has Loctite holding it into the paralever wishbone assembly. This means the bolt must be heated before trying to remove it - I use an industrial heat gun, being careful not to burn the paint on the wishbone. It's best to break this bolt loose before lifting the front end of the bike - and only remove the bolt fully once the bike is lifted.

On reinstallation, I carefully clean the bolt and use medium strength BLUE Loctite(tm) for reinstallation.

Mount the bottom of the shock first, first making sure the rubber bushings are located on the top mount of the shock. Torque the bottom bolt to BMW's specification.
Next lower the jack slowly whilst guiding the upper shock mount through the hole in the frame it belongs in.
Put the rest of the rubber bushings and washers in place, and tighten the top nut to the manufacturer's specifications.

Finally replace the charcoal cannister (if originally equipped.)

The rest of the reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

QUICK Edit: the HyperPro front shock has a hex section on the top for holding the shock body to keep it from turning while tightening the top mounting nut. The special spring adjusting wrench has an open-end wrench end that is made to fit this hex section.

I don't have any photos handy - but if you'd care to take some during the process - we can make a DIY/FAQ out of this!

04-17-2009, 01:06 AM
Thanks for the reply, im sure i will have no problems with this job now. I just have to wait for them to be made. The wife will be so happy when its done. When she's happy im happy.:dance