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marchyman
02-25-2009, 01:26 AM
Nice!

One minor nit, though. I'd blow out the spark plug channels before removing the valve cover as I wouldn't want any crap that comes out to contaminate the valve train. It's unlikely, but still....

// marc

Semper_Fi
02-25-2009, 02:18 PM
Marc - i understand your perspective, I did it with the cover off to maximize insertion of the blow gun.

I may want to get an extension for future adjustments.

Luis

akbeemer
02-25-2009, 05:19 PM
Thanks to those are making the DIY work. Great stuff in there for the less experienced of us.

grapeman
02-26-2009, 12:55 AM
For those of us NOT in the know, this will work the same way for a r1200r right?

henzilla
02-26-2009, 01:39 AM
For those of us NOT in the know, this will work the same way for a r1200r right?

correct

valvman1
03-02-2009, 03:35 AM
I recently took my '08 r1200rt in for the 6K service but would like to start doing more
of the service myself. Looked over your DIY on valves and thought it to be very
complete and concise w/ clear pics. I'm sure I'll have no problems with this work.
My next concern is syncing the TB's. Can this be done w/out the use of the motorad
computer that the dealer uses. The dealer says that the computer locks the idle
actuators and that it's impossible to sync w/out doing so.

Ride Safe,
Dave Bogue
'08 R1200rt

marchyman
03-02-2009, 04:09 AM
There is nothing you can do about the idle sync save making sure there are no air leaks and that the valves are correct. You can adjust the throttle cables for off idle. The BMW specs call for

0.5 mm play cable play regardless of the position of the handlebars
max 25 mbar diff at idle. If more then that check for air leaks and valve settings
max 15 mbar diff at 1400-1800 RPM
right and left side should rise and fall together. Any off-idle mismatch should be constant across the rpm range.

At least that's what I read for my '05 GS. It's rumored that someday the GS-911 folks will add the needed function to their device to lock the idle actuators. Until that day I just adjust throttle cables at the recommended 1400-1800 rpm.

// marc

deilenberger
03-02-2009, 04:28 PM
As //marc pointed out - the idle adjustment really can be ignored. You don't ride at idle, at least I don't. The size of the hole in the idle-balance circuit is small, so once the throttle starts to open, it has very little effect on balance.

The off-idle adjustment is the critical one - and I should point out that I've never had to adjust mine. If my valves are set correctly - the off-idle TB sync has been perfect.

Rule is - adjust valves first, then check sync after the engine has warmed up. The much simpler and direct cable runs on the R1200/hexhead engines seems to help keep the sync correct much longer than airheads or oilheads ever did.

cookie
03-03-2009, 07:12 PM
This is quick and easy, I broke the little lip off the plug wire cap (or is that the coil on plug?) anyway I appreciate the thread,:whistle alot easier to get to TDC than the Chilton way.

ghostrider1964
03-04-2009, 09:18 PM
No mention of endplay????:scratch Might not be a problem for most until 12,000 mile service, but should be checked while your doing the valves...

flars
03-06-2009, 01:00 PM
"No mention of endplay????"
I guess I better check mine.
1998 R1100RS, 138,000 miles. Never checked the end play. YMMV

deilenberger
03-06-2009, 03:00 PM
No mention of endplay????:scratch Might not be a problem for most until 12,000 mile service, but should be checked while your doing the valves...
If you mean "rocker-arm" endplay adjustment - the DIY is in the works. Our author is temporarily sidelined due to a crabby appendix..

IMHO - this is a once-in-a-lifetime adjustment. It is supposed to be done at the 600 mile service when the head bolts are retorqued. Problem is - I think a lot of mechanics don't feel it's necessary. So far - on bikes I've checked (oilheads and hexheads - the procedure is the same) - not one was adjusted correctly IMHO.

But - once done - I've never found it necessary to do it again. It's not a high-wear situation. Maybe at 100k miles - but certainly not needed (or desirable) to do at every valve adjustment (risk of pulling out the head-stud due to repeated retorquing.)

It IS certainly worth doing once on the bike - 'cause in my experience - getting the endplay adjustment right greatly smooths out the engine.

Semper_Fi
03-06-2009, 03:07 PM
yeah - what he said - thanks Don.

indycar
03-14-2009, 08:43 PM
Great write up! Thanks!!

As cousin Eddie would say - "That's really nice, Clark."

lvermiere
03-20-2009, 03:36 PM
Ditto on the great write up

In a couple of weeks I'm headed down to help out my friend set his valves and doa TB synch. I've done this on the air and oil heads for the last 35 years but I have 2 questions for the hexhead.
1. Does the oil head spark plug wrench work on the primary plugs of the 1200 which is 5/8"?

2. Does the 1200 have a window to show the 'ot' TDC mark on the flywheel or is the arrow on the right side of the bike the only way to find TDC?


Can anybody help me out with some answers here?

deilenberger
03-20-2009, 03:46 PM
Ditto on the great write up

In a couple of weeks I'm headed down to help out my friend set his valves and doa TB synch. I've done this on the air and oil heads for the last 35 years but I have 2 questions for the hexhead.
1. Does the oil head spark plug wrench work on the primary plugs of the 1200 which is 5/8"?

2. Does the 1200 have a window to show the 'ot' TDC mark on the flywheel or is the arrow on the right side of the bike the only way to find TDC?


Can anybody help me out with some answers here?

Sure.

1 - Yes

2 - Dunno 'cause the arrow/lump are so much easier than the window was on my oilrhead (which always wanted to lose the plug for the hole inside the clutch housing.) I can't recall seeing a window, doesn't mean I've looked for it (I haven't.)

lvermiere
03-20-2009, 04:24 PM
Sure.

1 - Yes

2 - Dunno 'cause the arrow/lump are so much easier than the window was on my oilrhead (which always wanted to lose the plug for the hole inside the clutch housing.) I can't recall seeing a window, doesn't mean I've looked for it (I haven't.)

Thanks Don,

on point #2 - I've always felt that seeing the 'ot' mark centered in the window gave me a better comfort level than using the arrow. I always wonder if the arrow is lined up perfectly horizontal or not. Maybe it is just a feeling as I said and other than using a chop stick to give me the comfort level or exactness I guess I'd rather stay with the old method. Old habits die hard I guess.

Cheers,

deilenberger
03-20-2009, 05:59 PM
Thanks Don,

on point #2 - I've always felt that seeing the 'ot' mark centered in the window gave me a better comfort level than using the arrow. I always wonder if the arrow is lined up perfectly horizontal or not. Maybe it is just a feeling as I said and other than using a chop stick to give me the comfort level or exactness I guess I'd rather stay with the old method. Old habits die hard I guess.

Cheers,If you look at the profile of a cam lobe - you'll see there is actually a wide portion of the lobe where the valve could be adjusted - anyplace off the ramps (up/down to the tip of the lobe) is OK. Getting it within a degree or so really isn't critical.

marchyman
03-20-2009, 11:53 PM
2. Does the 1200 have a window to show the 'ot' TDC mark on the flywheel or is the arrow on the right side of the bike the only way to find TDC?

Window? No. There is, however, the access hole on the the right side where you can install the handy-dandy L shaped tool that fits into a hole in the flywheel to lock the engine at TDC. It's not in a place where you can see anything, though. You'll find it with your fingers behind the right air intake, about 4" up and 30 degrees clockwise from the transmission fill plug.

One of these days I'll make the tool just to see how hard it is to find the TDC hole in the flywheel. :stick

// marc

BMWRich58
03-21-2009, 02:55 PM
Window? No. There is, however, the access hole on the the right side where you can install the handy-dandy L shaped tool that fits into a hole in the flywheel to lock the engine at TDC. It's not in a place where you can see anything, though. You'll find it with your fingers behind the right air intake, about 4" up and 30 degrees clockwise from the transmission fill plug.

One of these days I'll make the tool just to see how hard it is to find the TDC hole in the flywheel. :stick

// marc

I use the "lock pin" device. And yes it's a bugger to find unless someone shows you..
There seems to be only one spot on the "fly wheel" where it locks.
And,..this "one spot" will put only the left side at TDC for valve adjustment. No other spot on the fly wheel to lock in for the right side.
When you adjust the right side,it has to be aligned with the cam sprocket arrow.

By the way,9000 miles on the last adjustment and still in spec!!:clap

Look for images of the cam sprocket positions here for valve adjustments....Courtesy of Jim Von Baden
http://www.jimvonbaden.com/page2.aspx

ricknut
03-22-2009, 10:05 PM
There is nothing you can do about the idle sync save making sure there are no air leaks and that the valves are correct. You can adjust the throttle cables for off idle. The BMW specs call for

0.5 mm play cable play regardless of the position of the handlebars
max 25 mbar diff at idle. If more then that check for air leaks and valve settings
max 15 mbar diff at 1400-1800 RPM
right and left side should rise and fall together. Any off-idle mismatch should be constant across the rpm range.

At least that's what I read for my '05 GS. It's rumored that someday the GS-911 folks will add the needed function to their device to lock the idle actuators. Until that day I just adjust throttle cables at the recommended 1400-1800 rpm.

// marc

current beta version 903.9 will fix Idle Actuator Calibration function for all CAN-bus R-Series motorcycles. The software beta to lock of the stepper motors will be out in a next beta. read road map link.

http://www.hexcode.co.za/hex/products/gs-911/roadmap.:thumb

marchyman
03-23-2009, 12:59 AM
current beta version 903.9 will fix Idle Actuator Calibration function for all CAN-bus R-Series motorcycles. The software beta to lock of the stepper motors will be out in a next beta.

Except it doesn't work with my laptop for some reason. :cry

I've been running tests for the folks at hexcode and have so far determined that the problem is laptop specific (the code works fine when I tried a different laptop) and rare (I think I'm one of two beta testers that are having problems).

Ain't I lucky :laugh

// marc

Semper_Fi
03-23-2009, 03:46 PM
Look for images of the cam sprocket positions here for valve adjustments....Courtesy of Jim Von Baden


BTW - if you refer to the DIY http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33462 and look at "Page 11" and "Page 14" The alignment marks are clearly identified for the adjustment of the appropriate valve train