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stpadd
02-15-2009, 08:22 PM
I'm hoping for some clarification on the power available through the powerlet socket to run a heated liner.

The owners' manual states that the "Electrical rating of onboard socket" is "Max 10 A"

I thought I'd read that the CANbus only allowed 5 amps through the socket and that heated clothing with a higher draw than that would have to be wired directly to the battery.

Any help would be appreciated....

Steve

marcopolo
02-15-2009, 08:43 PM
I've got a 2006 R12RT and I've been running a Widder heated vest connected to the accessory socket without any problems whatsoever. I believe the rating for the accessory socket differs, depending on the bike model. I thought I read that it was only 5A on the GS, for example, but I stand to be corrected.

What's the rating on the item you plan to plug in?

stpadd
02-15-2009, 09:42 PM
I've got a 2006 R12RT and I've been running a Widder heated vest connected to the accessory socket without any problems whatsoever. I believe the rating for the accessory socket differs, depending on the bike model. I thought I read that it was only 5A on the GS, for example, but I stand to be corrected.

What's the rating on the item you plan to plug in?

I've ordered a Gerbings liner which draws 6.4 amps, but I'd like to be able to have the option to add gloves later if needed.

I also realize after further reading here, that it's not correct that the canbus controls this function.

SilverRT
02-16-2009, 03:14 AM
I could operate my Gerbing jacket at about half power before it lost power on my '07 RT. Based on that result, I assume you have around 5 amps. There have been a number of posts on this topic. Like many, I just wired direct to the battery and eventually added a fuse block. I'm using heavier wire and a 20 amp fuse.

GKSullivan
02-16-2009, 03:27 PM
+1 to direct battery wiring or a fuse block.

My understanding is that the outlet is controlled by the canbus. It shuts down the circuit when it senses too much current. If it weren't this way a fuse would be needed and there is no fuse to the outlet or to anything else for that matter.

If I were you I would hook the pigtails provided by the manufacturer directly to the battery as you would then have no concerns as to when or if the canbus shuts down the outlet and thus, your heated clothing. There is nothing worse than needing a little more heat from your clothing, cranking it up a bit, having the canbus sense too much current and then having everything go cold.

The best solution is to install a fuse box. But it will take a little research and the ability to do some wiring. Easternbeaver.com is a great place to start. Good people and excellent products. (I don't work for them, just a very satisfied customer.)

Gael

akbeemer
02-16-2009, 04:40 PM
I've got a 2006 R12RT and I've been running a Widder heated vest connected to the accessory socket without any problems whatsoever.

+1 on my 07 RT with a Widder.

Semper_Fi
02-16-2009, 06:23 PM
In my manual - section 10 page 148 - max electrical rating of on-board socket is 10A.

I have a centech fuse panel with the Gerbing controller attached to it - no issues.

ZFE computer monitors the bike, when over/under voltage or over current it sensed it communicates thru the Canbus to shut off affected area until problem is resolved.

Also i re-wired my rear acc. socket to be able to run my compressor - else it would always shut off. Rewired meaning heavier gauge wire and to a 15A fuse tape on the Centech.

You have at least two choices for fuse panels, one is by Centech and another is by Fuzeblock.

Check out their sites for information, also there is a write up in the current ON magazine reviewing the Fuseblock.

dmilan
02-16-2009, 08:58 PM
I'm hoping for some clarification on the power available through the powerlet socket to run a heated liner.

The owners' manual states that the "Electrical rating of onboard socket" is "Max 10 A"

I thought I'd read that the CANbus only allowed 5 amps through the socket and that heated clothing with a higher draw than that would have to be wired directly to the battery.

Any help would be appreciated....

Steve

I've owned an '08 GS. Owners manual stated 5 amps for OBSocket. Would not power my Gerbings jacket liner (for long).

I own an '05 RT. Owners manual states 10 amps for OBSocket. Have not tried my Gerbings Jacker liner

FWIW
Dmilan

reimerdavid
02-16-2009, 11:15 PM
In my manual - section 10 page 148 - max electrical rating of on-board socket is 10A.

I have a centech fuse panel with the Gerbing controller attached to it - no issues.

ZFE computer monitors the bike, when over/under voltage or over current it sensed it communicates thru the Canbus to shut off affected area until problem is resolved.

Also i re-wired my rear acc. socket to be able to run my compressor - else it would always shut off. Rewired meaning heavier gauge wire and to a 15A fuse tape on the Centech.

You have at least two choices for fuse panels, one is by Centech and another is by Fuzeblock.

Check out their sites for information, also there is a write up in the current ON magazine reviewing the Fuseblock.
I want to rewire my rear acc. socket to power my air compressor. Am currently researching Centech & Fuzeblock options. So far this is what I found. Fuzeblock states not to exceed 10 amps on any one circuit. Does centech have such a limitation ? My pump draws 10 to 15 amps

Semper_Fi
02-16-2009, 11:26 PM
The Centech has a seperate fuse for 5, 10, 15 and 20 amp applications.

The total current for the Centech, if i rememeber correctly is 60A - don't quote me

The way I have mine hooked up is a follows:

15 A for the Gerbing

5 A for the Autocom

20 A for the compressor.

I am also controlling the centech via the Centech AP1 relay kit.

The function of this device is that it controls power to the fuse panel when I turn the bike on.

The way I have it set up is I take a +V tap off of the bike to trigger the relay, the relay once activated brings battery power to the panel and off you go.

Once the ignition is shut off it will stay on for a minute or two until the ZFE computer shuts things down.

This set up works very good for me and how i want to drive/control my accesories.

Penforhire
02-16-2009, 11:42 PM
The Canbus can be programmed for different current allowances and it might have been raised over the years? I read about 5 A myself but my '08 RT owners manual says what yours does, 10 A. I have had no problems running my Gerbings liner and G3 gloves cranked pretty far up (dual controller, maxed out the gloves on a very cold day).

Semper_Fi
02-17-2009, 10:28 AM
Checked the Gerbing site - max draw for the liner is 6.4A and the max for the glove is 2.2

Total would be 8.6.- so there should be no issue being driven off of the acc. socket.

The reason I got mine set up for 15A is that i also have the pants and socks for the full ensemble - in that case max would be at 15A, but you can not leave it on for long because you would roast, but the socket would not be able to provide that level of power.

john1691
02-17-2009, 11:43 AM
Powerlet also has the adapter to go from the back of the factory plug directly to the battery, with a water tight, inline fuse holder. If you aren't adding lighting and other items, this is an easy and cheap way to go.

ojhengen
02-25-2009, 05:28 PM
The front power outlet on my '07 RT seems to run my Gerbing's vest and gloves just fine. It has never shut down, that I've noticed.

PDOGGER
02-26-2009, 01:57 AM
My experience has been that the powerlet outlet will run vests smaller that XL but not XL. Install a Powerlet bypass from the company that goes directly to the battery, problem solved. Just unplug the existing powerlet and replug with bypass. I taped off the existing plug and tucked it away.

ojhengen
02-26-2009, 03:50 PM
My experience has been that the powerlet outlet will run vests smaller that XL but not XL. Install a Powerlet bypass from the company that goes directly to the battery, problem solved. Just unplug the existing powerlet and replug with bypass. I taped off the existing plug and tucked it away.


What company do you refer to for the bypass?

aauais
05-25-2009, 06:38 PM
tried my gerbing's liner on both the front and rear acc sockets of my 09 RT - no issues! I cranked up to max for 10 minutes on each socket.

on my 07 F800ST the jacket liner would only work for about 3 minutes or less then shut down.

Dutchman
05-25-2009, 07:11 PM
The 1200RT aux power circuit can have up to three outlets:1 socket front left fairing, 1 socket rear left tail panel & 1 'hidden' gps outlet by the headstock. All on one circuit rated 10 amps total.

I can run Zumo and one heated waistcoat with no problems but a second heated garment usually trips the circuit protection.

Handbook could be clearer, I think.

Dutch

swall
05-25-2009, 09:52 PM
I gave up on the standard CANBUS outlet on my R1200R and installed one of the old Airhead types wired directly to the battery.

sellis
05-26-2009, 12:20 AM
I could operate my Gerbing jacket at about half power before it lost power on my '07 RT. Based on that result, I assume you have around 5 amps. There have been a number of posts on this topic. Like many, I just wired direct to the battery and eventually added a fuse block. I'm using heavier wire and a 20 amp fuse.

I have a 2007 RT, my experience is the same, anything over about half power for a Gerbing liner trips the circuit. I went with the Powerlet socket option and installed an additional socket on the right side at the back of the bike, wired direct to the battery. If you go to the Powerlet site, you'll see the kit, I think it was around $35-$40, I'm too lazy to look it up.


Steve