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acehosedme
06-19-2004, 08:17 PM
I took the instrument cluster out and have it on my desk. It appears to be one with gore-tx vents, there are two appx 9/16 holes, one on each side with a white screen type fabric.

When I pulled the plug off the back of this cluster there was 1 crushed female connector that was 3rd from the top on the right side of the 22 pin large plug. The wire colors for this are yellow w/brown stripe. This crushed one is on the side that connects to the tach side of the instrument cluster. Could this have anything to do with the speedo playing dead even tho it is on the opposite side of the cluster ?

Is there an easy way to remove just the one crushed connector from the plug without buying a $60.00 extraction tool ? Ca I just cut off the wire and push the crushed one through and solder another connector to the wire assuming i can find the correct size?

Thanks for any suggestions,
Bob

volkmare
06-19-2004, 08:47 PM
My old (83-87) k75 schematic shows that the yellow wire is the speedo input. If they added a brown stripe sence then, i don't know.

I've never needed special toos to get the instrument cluster off.

acehosedme
06-19-2004, 09:12 PM
the connectors look like they are about .080 and there are 11 on eahc side of the plub. I am asking about a problem with only one of these female connectors being crushed, probably from being worked on by the shop where the bike was originally purchased.

Bob

volkmare
06-19-2004, 09:39 PM
well...
My schematics do not show a yellow wire with a brown stripe.
But, the speedo input is a yellow wire with no stripe. It is entirely possible that your yel/brn wire is the speedo.
To verify, find the inductor on the final drive unit. Follow the wire to where it connects to the main harness under the tank. if the main harness wire at that connection is yel/brn, then you have found your speedo problem.
Then it's either, repair the pin, or find something to replace it with.

acehosedme
06-20-2004, 06:38 PM
This morning I cleaned all 22 pins on the back of the instrument cluster and took a female socket cutoff from an old wiring harness and spun it on all pins. I plugged the cable back in and while on the center stand put 0.5 miles on the odometer and up to 70mph, yes it all happened quick. I screwed averything back together and took the bike for a test ride. Exactly 1 mile later the speedo quit working.

I am now going to take the speedo apart using the help found on
IBMWR site.

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/speedo-repair3.shtml

Annyone have any thing else to offer to solve the $peedo problem short of buying a new one ?

Thanks
\Bob

volkmare
06-20-2004, 06:53 PM
stabilant22

acehosedme
06-20-2004, 06:58 PM
Where do I go to purchase this? What kind of store?
Thanks.
Bob

volkmare
06-20-2004, 07:04 PM
I "borrow" it from the hospital i work at.

you could go to http://www.stabilant22.com/stabilant/html/

I have never done business with them myself, but you can read about it, understand it's purpose, and I can say from my own experience that it is everything they say it is, and more

There are a lot of contacts inside the instrument cluster that desparetly need it.

That is, ASSUMING contact resistance is your problem. From my experience, it probably is.

acehosedme
06-20-2004, 08:54 PM
Anyone know how to get the black knob for the resettable trip counter back on? this is the biggest pita i've had thru the whole speedo adventure so far. 1 knob 1 spring 1 washer & 1 retaining clip. I'm almost ready for 1 bourbon 1 scotch and 1 beer if this keeps up.
Thanks,

Bob

kioolt
06-20-2004, 09:56 PM
The knob doesn't need to be removed to get the speedometer apart. It just needs to be pulled out slightly. I did the same thing and removed it when I took my speedometer apart only to find out I didn't need to. Put the knob back on with the circlip before inserting the guts. Pull out slightly on the knob while inserting the guts.

acehosedme
06-20-2004, 11:01 PM
I did try that, the clip keeps coming off before the shaft is retracked enough to let the speedo assembly drop into place. I think I was over enthusiastic pulling it out the very first time I took this apart today. I think the end of the knob is worn enough to hold the spring and clip on but not strong enough to allow me to retrack it as far as needed. I know I am not the only one that has been into this cluster beacuse i found an extra washer exactly the same size as the one on the knob, that i found after hearing a rattle BEFORE I took the cluster apart.

The good news is that the speedo worked again, at least for 5 miles and I'll finish putting the windshield on tomorrow and test it a little more.

Thanks for everyone's help.

I ough to head over to the IBMWR site and make a donation for the tech help gained .

Bob

deilenberger
06-23-2004, 11:14 PM
Originally posted by acehosedme
I did try that, the clip keeps coming off before the shaft is retracked enough to let the speedo assembly drop into place. I think I was over enthusiastic pulling it out the very first time I took this apart today. I think the end of the knob is worn enough to hold the spring and clip on but not strong enough to allow me to retrack it as far as needed. I know I am not the only one that has been into this cluster beacuse i found an extra washer exactly the same size as the one on the knob, that i found after hearing a rattle BEFORE I took the cluster apart.

The good news is that the speedo worked again, at least for 5 miles and I'll finish putting the windshield on tomorrow and test it a little more.

Thanks for everyone's help.

I ough to head over to the IBMWR site and make a donation for the tech help gained .

Bob

Epoxy will fix the clip that doesn't want to hold. BTDT a number of times. I'd also recommend Staibant22 - if you go to their site you can track down a NAPA auto-parts number for it.

It is unGodly expensive. About $45 for 15ml. But a tiny bit goes a long way. When I replaced my harness - every connection on the bike got treated. Haven't had any problems since then.

Best,