short fuse

[subconscious]

I have a 1974 R75/6. One fuse has met it's end. The other looks suspect. I have looked through Clymer, but I cannot find the specifications on the type of fuses to install.

What should I buy?

Could I get them at a NAPA/ Walmart, etc.?

Thanks.

[lorazepam]

Put on your reading glasses and there should be a value on the end of the fuse, on the metal end. Sometimes it is hard to see.

[Steve]

I'm fairly sure they are both 8 amp fuses. Fuses aren't generally considered "wear items" what makes you think one is "on the way out"?

[subconscious]

Thanks for the feedback.

On the way out:
Primarily because it is discolored. I suspect that the fuses have been in the machine for a while, it is just the first time that I have tried to address the situation. Plus, it woul dbe a benefit to have a few more on hand.

So, from what I gather, I can go to about any store with automotive parts and get a matching 8 amp fuse that will work?

[KBasa]

I'm pretty sure you need the little torpedo shaped ones, not the standard canister style.

They used to use them in old VWs too.

[lkchris]

Originally posted by Steve
I'm fairly sure they are both 8 amp fuses. Fuses aren't generally considered "wear items" what makes you think one is "on the way out"?


Au contraire, good buddy.

The euro-style plastic fuses indeed wear out.

[donkey doctor]

Hello; I have an 87 BMW 535i, as well as one of they're fine motorcycles. It has an entire fuse box of those ceramic fuses. As they cycle heat cool heat cool they do wear out and fail, another thing that happens is that the spring arms that hold the fuse in position lose they're springyness after a few million heat cool cycles, and won't squeeze the fuse anymore. I have been soldering in blade type fuse holders in place of the BMW original ceramic fuse as they go, I now have 6 of them in the fuse box.

If I had any problems with them on my Motorcycle, I would definately solder in blade type fuse holders. They will be available in any auto parts place.

I also have an 86 VW Vanagon, which also has those ceramic fuses, I haven't had ant pro9blems with them on that unit though.

[sgborgstrom]

Originally posted by donkey doctor

I also have an 86 VW Vanagon, which also has those ceramic fuses, I haven't had any problems with them on that unit though.

I have the same in my Westy...they don't seem to mind being connected to a 2.2l Subaru motor

Would you mind describing in a bit more detail how you solder the blade type fuses into the headlight bucket? The ceramics are undoubtedly going to go the way of the dinosaur one of these days.

[donkey doctor]

Hello; I soldered the wires to the metal tangs that used to hold the fuse. I used my soldering gun, on the 165 watt setting, I would tin the wires with resin solder, not acid core solder. smear a little soldering paste on the metal tangs and hold the tinned wires against the metal tang with the soldering gun heating the tang until the solder in the tinned wire starts to melt then take the gun away and hold it still while it cools.

It's easier to do then it is to explain.

I have one of those butane torchs that would do the job just as easily and maybe even faster.

I leave 2 inches or so hanging and push it out of the way when you close the headlight bucket.

[lorazepam]

Just a note, Autozone carries a full supply of the ceramic fuses for your electronic plesure....

[YB in IN]

Motorad Elektrik also would have any thing electrical that you would need. Good folks to work with and talk to.

[Brownie]

Donkey Doktor has the best plan, methinks.......get the newer type fuse receivers that accept the "blade" type fuses. They seem to be VERY durable. My 535 suffered MANY electrical burps over the years from these funky ceramic types.

[lkchris]

White ones!