Rebuilding Forks - Yet a New Adventure

[r65lsk75c]

So, I removed and disassembled both front forks from the '82 R65LS in order to determine why the axle could not be inserted. The liquid that came out of the left fork was a mixture of fork oil and chunks of what appeared to be black rubber. A review of the parts diagram indicated that an item called a "stop ring" was missing from the damper rod. The right fork had said stop ring and it does appear to be a black rubber piece. Could this indeed be responsible for the black chunks and the cause of the mis-aligned axle holes on the lower sliders?

One other thing that I noted was that the springs seemed to be in different orientations - one had the rings closer together at the top of the fork, the other at the bottom. I assume that one of these configurations is preferred?

Just one other question - do I need to remove the damper piston from the top of the damper rod in order to clean everything prior to reassembly? If so, what is the preferred method for holding the rod while unscrewing the piston?

Thanks, :bottle
Rick T

[88bmwJeff]

One other thing that I noted was that the springs seemed to be in different orientations - one had the rings closer together at the top of the fork, the other at the bottom. I assume that one of these configurations is preferred?


I just finished rebuilding the forks on my bike (88 R100RT), and replaced the springs with Progressives. Progressive indicated the forks will work the same regardless of which way they are installed, but indicated placing the side with the tight coils near the bottom may reduce fork/spring noise. I hope this helps you.

[The_Veg]

I think that missing stop ring is a very reasonable guess. Also, I read somewhere (trying to remember in my tired/ intoxicated fog just where...) tht while spring action is not affected by which side is up, one orientation gives less air-space at the top and less air-space means a slightlyfirmer ride due to the fact that air is compressable and fork oil is not. Firmer or softer is your choice of course, and the difference is not critical.

[R100RS]

All the parts diagrams I've seen show them at the bottom. Replace them both, sounds like you've found the problem. I had the same issue with the forks in the /6 I'm working on. The rubber spacer came out in 50 million pieces.

[Boxerkuh]

Remember to take your time, don't rush! You already saw what good trouble shooting lead you too... And I guess this is not an isolated incident... :violin
Good Luck!

[lkchris]

Don't ask me how I know ...

When replacing fork seals, don't pound them in with fork vertical and resting on ground.

You'll close up the axle holes.

[AntonLargiader]

Nice point. Let me add to that. When I change Oilhead fork seals, I push them in with the open end down. I heat the fork leg, loosely place the seal, and then invert the assembly onto a suitable mandrel (seal installer, a socket, whatever) and push down with my body weight. Seal goes in nicely. I'm sure you could screw something up if you tried but if you're aware of what's happening (WRT the mandrel scratching the bore or crushing a fragile part of the seal) it's a great way to go. And you won't have to hammer anything. The most I have to do is rock the leg slightly.