Big Bend Country

[Voni]

Paul and I have run away from home - and snow and cold - to visit the desert. Sure is a change from the usual summer weather here.

Since yesterday was a little chilly, Paul took the time to compose this:
http://web.bigbend.net/users/glaves/texastrip.htm

Voni
sMiling

[StevieWonder]

Looks like you've discovered a SMALL part of the reason that Texas IS God's country !!!

[alien_hitchhiker]

Voni & Paul, nice travelogue. Thanks!

I've ridden across the Texas panhandle but have never made it to West Texas. You're helping to keep alive my scheme to eventually get there.

[SHawn_P]

Great writeup! Big Bend is on my short list - this just makes me want to go all the more!

Hope you have a great escape and enjoy your time together!

[RebeccaV]

Big Bend is on my 'to do' list and now more than ever. Thanks for posting the link - great report and pictures!

[PGlaves]

Glad y'all liked the page. If you have the time, follow the "click here" links, and the the links from those links. You can spend quite a bit of snowed-in time browsing if you want to. Some of this stuff fascinates me.

[riderR1150GSAdv]

Very cool write-up! :thumb Waiting for more :lurk

[Mudbug]

I highly recommend Big Bend during the winter months. The temperature during the summer is hot, sometimes very hot.

I recommend going to Marathon, TX, Lajitas, TX, and a half day trip to Terlingua, TX. Also, while you are in that part ot Texas, visit Langtry, TX, home of Judge Roy Bean.

[Kbrick]

Glad y'all liked the page. If you have the time, follow the "click here" links, and the the links from those links. You can spend quite a bit of snowed-in time browsing if you want to. Some of this stuff fascinates me.

Thanks for taking the time to share some of your adventure.

Now know where all the F650's have gone...the're on the road!

I guess that is Larry McMurtry country you are passing through, he is one of my favorite authors, enjoy your respite from your Kansas winter.

On your way home don't forget Archer City and its famous Dairy Queen (McMurtry's, Walter Benjaman at the Dairy Queen).

[StevieWonder]

Here are some similar shots ...

Ft. Clark (Brackettville, TX) where the original movie "The Alamo" was filmed. Among other notables, Gen George Patton was stationed here.

[StevieWonder]

Judge Roy Bean plaque

[StevieWonder]

Ft Davis was named for Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War and later President of the Confederate States of America. It was built to provide quarters to troops who were to protect travellers on the road from San Antonio to El Paso.

[StevieWonder]

The Davis Mountains surround the area around Ft. Davis. They offer a cool respite from the hot weather in the summer (about 10-20 degrees cooler than the surrounding lowlands).

[StevieWonder]

The scenic loop out of Ft Davis offers great scenery and some great curves too. This shot is approaching the mountainous part of the loop.

[username]

i liked fort davis.

http://leetonium.com/new_mexico/nm_37.jpg

[username]

when there, be sure to ride up to the observatory.

http://leetonium.com/new_mexico/nm_87.jpg

then head for the guadalupe mts.

http://leetonium.com/new_mexico/nm_106.jpg

http://leetonium.com/new_mexico/nm_120.jpg

[RebeccaV]

i liked fort davis.

http://leetonium.com/new_mexico/nm_37.jpg
Omigosh - is that a chile relleno on a BUN? :eat

[StevieWonder]

No ... chile relleno is battered.
This looks like a green chile on a hamburger ... with cheese.

You mean THIS observatory ... ??? :brow

[Visian]

I highly recommend Big Bend during the winter months. The temperature during the summer is hot, sometimes very hot.

I recommend going to Marathon, TX, Lajitas, TX, and a half day trip to Terlingua, TX. Also, while you are in that part ot Texas, visit Langtry, TX, home of Judge Roy Bean.

My favorite movie! "This may not have been the way things were... but the way they should have been."

Voni and Paul - you all camped in the same place we did during our visit to Big Bend... what a great place to spend New Year's eve... not another soul in sight.

http://www.visian.nu/images/stillwell_texas.jpg

Thanks for the report!

Ian

http://www.visian.nu/images/gspd_plus.jpg

[username]

No ... chile relleno is battered.
This looks like a green chile on a hamburger ... with cheese.

You mean THIS observatory ... ??? :brow

is that the same as this one? ;)


http://www.leetonium.com/new_mexico/nm_88.jpg

[Mudbug]

Eastern part of Big Bend, December 2005. Rio Grand river with Chisos Mountains in the background. Rio Grand Village in Big Bend Park, on the right.

[Voni]

This all just keeps me sMiling!

Great pictures and I can see them every day first hand

Green Chilies are my favorite!

And cool we found your campsite Visian.

Voni
sMiling in the sunshine

[Kev95GS]

Thanks for the report. Fantastic!

How 'bout Marfa,

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022571-M.jpg

or Hwy 170 from Presidio to Terlingua?

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343071-M.jpg

Hwy 170 is a must if your within a couple hundred miles.

I really like Big Bend.

Kevin

[Voni]

I love Marfa! Yesterday I was in Marfa Book Company
http://www.marfabookco.com/marfabk_coffee.html
to pick up some special tea Robbie Ray had served at dinner Saturday night when I heard, "Are you Voni?"

It was Keller Doss, a fellow BMW rider who was a friend of Chuck Wetzel. He told me the real riding was here,
NOT in the Hill Country. He compared that to middle Ohio but with a few more hills.

He's got a point. ;)

But I'm glad I've ridden both. :brad

Voni
sMiling

[RustyJC]

I rode to work here on the northwest side of Houston this morning. If y'all keep this conversation up, I'm going out and climb on the bike and head for the Big Bend and the Davis Mountains. I wonder if I'll be missed? :evil

Rusty

[Voni]

If you don't, we'll miss you.

Voni
sMiling :dance

[mistercindy]

I love that part of Texas. And its true that Ft. Davis gives something of a respite from the hot weather around it during the summer. Ft. Davis also has some fine B&Bs and day hiking. The Marfa lights are cool, and still a mystery, and Alpine has one of the best restaurants around: The original Reata (sadly, the highrise Ft. Worth Reata was destroyed in a tornado). And the Gage Hotel in Marathon is very cool. I've never been to Big Bend, though. Shameful, really, as I've lived in Texas for over 30 years.

[Voni]

Here's another way to visit. One of the best links from our web page:

http://virtualguidebooks.com/Texas/WestTexas.html

Stunning photography!

Voni
sMiling and getting ready to go see Willie Nelson at the local college

[PHMarvin]

Harriet and I had gone to Alpine to help celebrate Paul's XXth birthday a few days ago and we had made plans for me to come back on Friday to ride with him and Voni. We decided to ride from Alpine to Lajitas, then along the Rio Grande river to Presidio, then to Marfa where we'd split, me for home and them back to Alpine.

I left El Paso on the '95 K1100LT at 5:00am. It was cold - high 20's or low 30's. The Weather Channel had lied; it was colder than what they had predicted and the wind was blowing hard - probably up to 30mph from the side (North). Nonetheless, I persevered, turning my electric vest to high and switching on the heated grips as my legs froze while fighting the wind and cold. I stopped for gas in Van Horn, but had no time to go into the truckstop to warm up. I covered the next 74 miles to Marfa in an hour or less. The abandoned "town" of Lobo has a sign, "Kinky Friedman for Governor" along the route. "Fat Albert", the radar carrying balloon used to track low-flying drug-smuggling planes was on the ground, probably because of the wind. Going through Marfa, gas was the cheapest I'd seen for weeks ($2.319 for premium unleaded), so I topped up and rode the rest of the way to Alpine.

Paul and Voni were waiting for me at the Holland Hotel dining room, which has a large picture of a BMW bike over the bar. We had a great breakfast and multiple cups of hot coffee (I had to thaw out), then left the restaurant for "home" - their motorhome parked 6 miles south of Alpine. I met Sarge, their (large) dog and received Sarge's "Lick of Approval". Sarge was warm, and that was what mattered to me!

Riding south toward Terlingua was uneventful (nice road for a while before turning flat and straight) until going up a hill, Voni's right bag comes open and a pair of gloves falls out. Since I'm last in line, I stop and retrieve the gloves. I meet Paul and Voni coming back to see why I'm no longer following behind them. The gloves are put back into the bag and the bag is closed and, later on, strapped down with a bungie. After passing many mountain bikes (there is a mountain bike convention/race/whatever), we arrive in Lajitas to see Henry Clay III, the beer-swilling goat at the Lajitas Trading Post. There we meet a couple of riders from Houston (I don't remember their names but the BMW carried the TX license plate "OBERST" - Hi, Colonel) who had already bought a beer to give to the goat. The goat obligingly drank the beer and waited for more.

We rode west along the river to Presidio - 67 miles of up/down/curve, up/curve/down, curve/up/down, etc. And the rock formations (mostly on the Mexican side) are fantastic. If you get a chance, it is a "must" ride.

We gassed in Presidio ($2.379 for regular unleaded) and headed north toward Marfa after stopping at Subway for lunch. Just north of the Shafter ghost town, we stopped and viewed the flat prairie. Here, I told Paul and Voni, a couple of months ago I drove through here and saw a dromedary (1-humped camel) just a hundred yards or so off the highway. Alas, it was not to be today as the only thing we saw in the field was a yellow airplane taking off. We passed the Border Patrol checkpoint (Citizenship? - U.S!) and arrived in Marfa uneventfully. I again stopped at the $2.319 (premium) gas and filled the tank and said good-bye to Paul and Voni.

The ride was FUN. I hope to be able to go for another ride with them while they are still in the area. For me it was 210 miles to Alpine, then 207 miles with Paul and Voni, then 185 miles home, total 602 miles. It was a nice day's ride.

Respectfully Submitted,
Phil Marvin - El Paso, TX
'96 K1100LT (his) FOR SALE
'95 K1100LT (his too)
'95 K75 low seat (hers) FOR SALE
'94 K75A/3 low seat (hers too)

[StevieWonder]

Sweet ... except for that cold thing. At least it wasn't wet AND cold !! :thumb

[Voni]

I'm glad Phil shared our wonderful ride yesterday. We were willing to wimp out to save him but he would have none of that.
As it turns out the day was gorgeous!

Sorry there are no pictures of the River Road. We were having too much fun to stop ; )

Go here: http://photobucket.com/albums/a326/VoniGlaves/River%20Road%20Ride%20with%20Phil/

And if you want pictures of the River Road, guess we'll just have to go back and take some this time.

Voni
sMiling

[PHMarvin]

Hi, Stevie Wonder,
Yeah, it was sweet. And as far as the cold, it's my own fault. I believed the Weather Channel (lows in the high 30's and wind not more than [as I remember] 15mph or so) and decided to wear my electric vest and not bother with the electric chaps nor electric gloves. BIG MISTAKE :doh But, even with the cold, I'd do it again in a New York Minute!! :bikes And besides, riding with Paul and Voni (and listening to the stories) is great.

[Voni]

Seems we had a few too many visitors to our Texas Trip part of the web site. But, Earthlink gave us some clues and Paul got to work moving the content to:

NEW SITE: http://web.bigbend.net/users/glaves/texastrip2.htm

We'll continue to update now and then . . .

Thanks for coming along.

Voni
sMiling

[Slablog]

Nice write-up Voni. And the photos were just what I needed today.

My wife grew up in Marfa Texas during the late 50s and 60s. We have been to visit a few times since she still has family in San Angelo and Alpine areas.

Absolutely beautiful country. I envy you guys being able to take it in this way.

We're planning on tying my bike onto the bed of my truck in April and heading out there together. I want to ride around west Texas and she wants to visit family, so it'll work out for us both.

[Voni]

Good for you! The best of both worlds for each of you.

Marfa is a town that is in an exciting growing phase. Most of the changes have brought vitality but I'm sure some would like it to stay the same as it ever was. The art scene is incredible.

What does your wife think the Marfa lights are?

Voni
sMiling

[PHMarvin]

Voni asked Harriet and me to come to Alpine, TX a few weeks ago to help celebrate Paul's XXth birthday. We did, and HE PAID THE BILL! So I promised I'd take them to one of my favorite restaurants - El Borrego II in Delicias, Chihuahua. Last Thursday I did just that!

I left home at 4:00am so I could pick them up around 8:30. I brought the car because I already had the Mexico temporary import sticker on it and it would be a hassle (and expensive) to cancel it, get stickers for all 3 bikes, cancel them at the end of the trip, etc., so I made an "executive decision" and we went in my Honda Accord.

Arriving at the border about 10:00, we went to Immigration to get them their required paperwork. It was handled in 5 minutes by a friendly, efficient Immigration officer, who told me (in Spanish) that for a visit of only a day, they did not need to pay the (about $20) fee (each) normally collected for the tourist forms. We thanked him and I contributed to the Immigration officers' coffee fund, a PURELY VOLUNTARY gesture on my part, not necessary nor asked for by anyone. He was, though, a nice guy and they aren't paid a lot.

A couple of miles into the interior of Mexico (legal term - we had passed out of the frontier zone into the interior) we stopped at a military checkpoint and were waved on. This is probably due to my being recognized by one of the soldiers, as I used to pass this way frequently up to a month-and-a-half ago. We continued on, down a 2-lane well paved and maintained road for a bit over 150 miles, covering the distance in a little less than 2 hours. You do the math! At Camargo we turned northand headed for Delicias, about 40 miles away. After paying 2 different $4 tolls (Mexican toll roads are EXPENSIVE), we arrived in Delicias and went to the restaurant. Paul and Voni had 6 tacos each and I modestly had 8. That plus 3 drinks set me back less than $15 (dollars, not pesos).

We left the restaurant and I took them sightseeing. Since my (ex)boss told me on January 23 that my position was eliminated - effective immediately, I have been hunting for another job. And since I used to work with Mexican contractors in Mexico, I wanted to visit one of the ex-contractors and leave a resume. So I dragged Paul and Voni along and took them to a large commercial laundry while I talked to the owner. We then left and headed back the way we came, but not before stopping at a supermarket and buying a couple of quarts (yes - quarts, not litres) of Bacardi rum ($9 each) to take as an offering to Harriet, who couldn't come even though El Borrego II is her very favorite restaurant in Mexico.

Upon our arrival, again, at the military checkpoint, they checked us out this time. Finding nothing except 3 gringos who had spent the day in Mexico, they smiled, said sorry for the delay, and bade us farewell. We turned in Paul and Voni's Mexican paperwork and had their passports stamped going out (important if they stamped the passports coming in, which they had done) and crossed the bridge to the US after paying the 20 peso ($1.95) toll. Texas charges a tax on all liquor, wine, beer and cigarettes brought across the border. Isn't it too bad that we crossed after the tax-collector had gone home for the day? We headed north to Marfa, passing through a Border Patrol checkpoint a few miles south of Marfa. In Marfa, I turned east toward Alpine to return them to their motor home and Sarge, their large, friendly dog.

We stopped in Alpine for dinner and then went to the RV park, where it being 9:30pm, they twisted my arm to stay the night in the RV. Sarge didn't snore; I hope I didn't. I awakened about 6:30 and got dressed and let Sarge out. Paul then came into the kitchen/dining area and we started talking. Shortly afterward Voni joined us and, again, twisted my arm to stay for breakfast. And for all you who know the Lady in Red, I am here and now reporting that she also wears red pyjamas as well as red leathers and red jeans.

After breakfast I said my good-byes to Paul, Voni and Sarge and headed back to El Paso. We had a great time as well as great tacos!

Respectfully submitted,

[Voni]

We've been having too much fun to update the website but since Phil posted his update, we thought we'd better add the pictures.

And our gratitude for a really WONDERFUL day. Phil was a gracious host - in two languages.

Go here:
http://web.bigbend.net/users/glaves/texastrip3.htm

Next up. New tires for the RED F650. And a visit from my big bro, Mike Cornett .. .

To be continued.

Voni
sMiling

[Voni]

We're loaded up like the Beverly Hillbillies to head for our new home in Big Bend Country. Winter there. Summers we'll travel the world.

http://web.bigbend.net/users/glaves/adobe.htm

Out the door now.

Voni
sMiling

[BradfordBenn]

Coolio. So when is the house warming party? :heart :kiss

[Timba]

Congratulations! I remember seeing that place on the way back from our off road adventure!

We'll have to drop in and say "hi" sometime!

PS, has anyone mention the tarantula migration that takes place around October? The road looks like it's flowing, with all the little fuzzies headed in one direction. :D

[Polarbear]

My daughter and I on my R1100GS did this same trip on the way to Fredricksburg Rally years ago. I remember the Park Ranger telling us the Park was the least visited one in the USA. Way south! I guess many never take the plunge into the Rio Grande area and are truely missing some good stuff,huh! We were there in July(rally month) and the heat was there alright(over 100), but storm came along while there and temp. dropped big time to 80's. We enjoyed the area and more Beemerphiles should get this one done...If one remembers this particular year, the Texas Hill Country was nearly flooded out. The grasses were very green in West Texas, too and this ride to the "Big Bend" country was spectacular ride. Thanx again for the pics and memories. Randy moa13233. PS;my daughter was about 14 years old that year and won't forget the memories either, I'm sure.

[swaanimal]

Welcome to Texas, Paul, Voni and Sarge! :clap

What a great winter report. Gives me a goal for retirement, when that day comes, many years from now. Yes, I'm a tad jealous :lol

Here's another web forum for you to check out if you haven't already: www.twtex.com

[cjack]

We're loaded up like the Beverly Hillbillies to head for our new home in Big Bend Country. Winter there. Summers we'll travel the world.

http://www.mindspring.com/~paul.glaves/adobe.htm

Out the door now.

Voni
sMiling

Wow. That's an interesting move. The house looks really nice, all the stone work, etc.
What a great place for Ham Radio antennas. I know what I would do with that windmill tower. Build a couple more, taller.
I kept thinking you would find Burt Monroe's cot inside the shed.
Good luck on your winter quarters.

[Voni]

Coolio. So when is the house warming party? :heart :kiss


In the fall.

We're back in Kansas now planning for my son's wedding. And finishing our 49 state ride. And . . .

[Voni]

Congratulations! I remember seeing that place on the way back from our off road adventure!

We'll have to drop in and say "hi" sometime!

PS, has anyone mention the tarantula migration that takes place around October? The road looks like it's flowing, with all the little fuzzies headed in one direction. :D

Hope you do. :wave

Tarantulas? Um. No. I've just been stressing about the snakes and the lizards and the scorpions . . .

Thanks ; (

Voni
sMiling :dance

[Voni]

My daughter and I on my R1100GS did this same trip on the way to Fredricksburg Rally years ago. I remember the Park Ranger telling us the Park was the least visited one in the USA. Way south! I guess many never take the plunge into the Rio Grande area and are truely missing some good stuff,huh! We were there in July(rally month) and the heat was there alright(over 100), but storm came along while there and temp. dropped big time to 80's. We enjoyed the area and more Beemerphiles should get this one done...If one remembers this particular year, the Texas Hill Country was nearly flooded out. The grasses were very green in West Texas, too and this ride to the "Big Bend" country was spectacular ride. Thanx again for the pics and memories. Randy moa13233. PS;my daughter was about 14 years old that year and won't forget the memories either, I'm sure.

Amazing country! Saturday night - our first night in the adobe - we had thunderstorms and then a huge rainbow - ending at our neighbor's TEXAS flag. What a welcome!

[Voni]

Welcome to Texas, Paul, Voni and Sarge! :clap

What a great winter report. Gives me a goal for retirement, when that day comes, many years from now. Yes, I'm a tad jealous :lol

Here's another web forum for you to check out if you haven't already: www.twtex.com

Thanks!!
:wow

I'm blown away by the fun of retirement. Sure glad I did it early. Sure don't miss work. Well, maybe some of the kids, but not the work.

Thanks for the forum. I will check it out. When I get caught up again . . .

[Voni]

Wow. That's an interesting move. The house looks really nice, all the stone work, etc.
What a great place for Ham Radio antennas. I know what I would do with that windmill tower. Build a couple more, taller.
I kept thinking you would find Burt Monroe's cot inside the shed.
Good luck on your winter quarters.

It is even more amazing than I'd remembered. LOTS of work to do but fun too!

Love the windmill. Not into ham radio. Yet.

The only radio station we get is the brand new Marfa Public Radio. Sweet.

Burt would sure be welcome here. And the road out front would be great for time trials . . .
:wow