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View Full Version : 1150GS left front blinker fails


delhonrock
02-10-2006, 02:33 PM
A new bulb will work for a short time and then fail. The only test I've conducted found continunity from ground to both sides of the bulb. First I thought a bad bulb; but now, I'm wondering. What else should I try?
Thanks

CustomSarge
02-11-2006, 08:35 AM
Very screwy problem!
>Just to isolate/get a different view: maybe swap front & rear right to left?
>Is the left front mount loose/over tight? Would shake the bulb more.
Hard to imaging an electrical issue only affecting 1 of 4. Good Hunting <<<)))

PUDGYPAINTGUY
02-11-2006, 09:06 AM
I just checked mine and what I found was:

It worked, it didn't, it worked, it didn't, it worked, it didn't, it worked, it didn't...... :jester Sorry couldn't resist it.

PUDGYPAINTGUY
02-11-2006, 09:12 AM
A new bulb will work for a short time and then fail. The only test I've conducted found continunity from ground to both sides of the bulb. First I thought a bad bulb; but now, I'm wondering. What else should I try?
Thanks


Another thought on this, did you check the insert the test lamp across the wires further down the wires by the connector to the lamp? I was wondering if the lamp base is going bad? There is a disconnect that you could tap into. If it works fine then you could look closer at the lamp unit?

kbasa
02-11-2006, 09:39 AM
I'm having a similar problem with our RS. I think what is happening is that the little spring that holds the contact against the bulb connection point is getting weak. I'm going to go mess with it today. When I've pulled "failed" bulbs out, they've tested fine with my multimeter, which leads me to believe it's a socket issue of some type.

BradfordBenn
02-11-2006, 09:57 AM
I'm having a similar problem with our RS. I think what is happening is that the little spring that holds the contact against the bulb connection point is getting weak. I'm going to go mess with it today. When I've pulled "failed" bulbs out, they've tested fine with my multimeter, which leads me to believe it's a socket issue of some type.

Did you actually get light or were you just measuring resistance/continuity. Not all bulbs fail to open.

jcpearce
02-12-2006, 02:55 PM
I remember a caller to cartalk had the similar with her car, they mentioned
a) Overvoltage (you could check the voltage across it when blinking, sounds unlikely though)
b) excessive vibration (something loose)
c) Crack? Is rain getting in there?
d) Not using gloves when putting it in and oil from the hand getting it too hot.

As Kbasa mentioned checking the spring and socket would be a good avenue to pursue as well.

mullerjd1
02-13-2006, 08:17 AM
Maybe this would help :laugh

DarrylRi
02-13-2006, 12:32 PM
I've had this problem, too, with my R1150RS. Whatever metal BMW is using for the contacts in the sockets, it's not your grandfather's spring steel. It feels like lightweight aluminum. Anyway, it hasn't got much spring in it, it bends easily. If you replace a bulb and push it all the way into the bayonet socket before turning it, you could easily bend this metal enough that it doesn't make contact.

That's the problem I had with my right rear signal. It was close enough that sometimes it did work, and often it would work (for a while) if I dope slapped it.

The fix was to remove the bulb and disassemble the socket enough to bend the center contact in, towards the bulb. Then, when replacing the bulb, only push it -- gently! -- in far enough to be able to turn the bulb. It worked for me, but it was pretty fussy.

Good luck!

PUDGYPAINTGUY
02-13-2006, 12:36 PM
I've had this problem, too, with my R1150RS. Whatever metal BMW is using for the contacts in the sockets, it's not your grandfather's spring steel. It feels like lightweight aluminum. Anyway, it hasn't got much spring in it, it bends easily. If you replace a bulb and push it all the way into the bayonet socket before turning it, you could easily bend this metal enough that it doesn't make contact.

That's the problem I had with my right rear signal. It was close enough that sometimes it did work, and often it would work (for a while) if I dope slapped it.

The fix was to remove the bulb and disassemble the socket enough to bend the center contact in, towards the bulb. Then, when replacing the bulb, only push it -- gently! -- in far enough to be able to turn the bulb. It worked for me, but it was pretty fussy.

Good luck!


What? Germans produce something inferior? Say it ain't so please, say it ain't so...lol

kbasa
02-13-2006, 01:53 PM
Did you actually get light or were you just measuring resistance/continuity. Not all bulbs fail to open.

I got continuity when I tested the bulbs. Also, if I wiggled the socket a bit, I could get the flash to work normally.

DarrylRi
02-13-2006, 08:47 PM
What? Germans produce something inferior? Say it ain't so please, say it ain't so...lolI'm sure there's an excellent design reason for this... but it hasn't yet been revealed to me.

Actually, I'll bet the Germans didn't produce this. I sure wish they'd find a different supplier, however.

CustomSarge
02-15-2006, 08:21 AM
The socket button spring sounds right, I've seen cheap sockets do that. How about running a line of solder down the length? I'm presuming the metal on these is solderable. On a bad day, back it with a strip of brass? G.H. <<<)))

PUDGYPAINTGUY
02-15-2006, 12:01 PM
I'm sure there's an excellent design reason for this... but it hasn't yet been revealed to me.

Actually, I'll bet the Germans didn't produce this. I sure wish they'd find a different supplier, however.

I would guess the reason would be the same for many countries in the EU.

The old apprenticeship programs that bred and trained the craftsmen of old, the same folks that built that German reputation for quality and engineering, those programs were discontinued in Germany in the early 80's due to the cost of running that level of training. Not just my opinion, if simple research is done it can be verified, and there have been TV shows to make it officially true too...lol.

Sadly the training standards in Germany currently are often worse than in the US, although the "Euro-myth of quality" is still alive and well, albeit without the product differentiation they once had in Germany. The recent products are a culmination of engineers in the global markets, rather than the Germans alone. After all BMW is a global company now with R&D in each location at varying levels.

Luckily for us they still build a heck of a product even if it is not the same quality as in the good/bad/not so bad old days....lol

DarrylRi
02-15-2006, 08:09 PM
Luckily for us they still build a heck of a product even if it is not the same quality as in the good/bad/not so bad old days....lolYou mean, a product like the 1928-29 "tube frame" bikes (R52/62/57/63), that tended to crack the final drive case because the design and/or castings were not up to the stresses there?

Or the "pressed steel" frame R12, which the German army continued to buy over BMW's newer R51/61/71 models? And then discovered that the headstock had to be reinforced because the commercial product didn't do well plowing mud with a sidecar?

Or... well, I could continue. Every generation of BMWs seems to have it's little "quirks". ;-) I don't see that it has changed much over the years.

And I really doubt that the turn signal socket has anything at all to do with apprenticeship programs. BMW doesn't make turn signal sockets. It comes from accountancy, marketing and choosing a price point for suppliers to meet.

The only time in its history BMW has not acted like the big business it is, was when the Quandts decided not to sell to hated rival Daimler Benz in 1959, who was low balling them because they thought they could.

delhonrock
02-16-2006, 09:23 AM
Great Help, thanks, it was the synthetic blinker fluid that fixed it...

Actually, cleaning all the socket and bulb connections fixed the problem. Just a little corrosion of the electrical connections seens to have caused the intermittent problem.

Thanks again, sorry it took so long to get back.