PDA

View Full Version : !Viva La Mexico! The Ride


Kev95GS
01-26-2006, 10:35 PM
Allright.

I'm not real sure how to go about this, so the only way I know how is to start at the beginning and post a whole lot of pictures. Let me know if I've got to many or get to long winded.

We started talking about a trip to Mexico's, Copper Canyon around the camp fire at Blue Ridge Motorcyle Camp Ground, Crusoe, NC in October of 01 or 02, can't remember, but it came to fruition on 1/8/06. We met a several guys that night and 2 were coming south from PA after having been on a ride. One from MS and the other, I believe, was from TX. They told us about the area and we knew we needed to go.

We left home 1/6/06.
Dan, my sister-in-laws husband.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54021985-M.jpg

our bud Jim

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54021984-M.jpg

and me, Kevin

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54021991-M.jpg

and least I forget, my ride...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54021981-M.jpg

Dan and I met at the end of his street and we rode about 35 miles and hooked up with Jim at I-40 and Hwy 96 at 7:00 am. It was 35 and flurries all the way till about 40 miles east of Little Rock. (Thats where the pictures were taken when we finally saw the Sun.)

Hit TX around 3 pm and hit Dallas around rush hour... who timed this...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54021996-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022240-M.jpg

We stopped for the night at the SLEEPGO around 7:30, it was a bed.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022245-M.jpg

We had about 768 BMW miles and it was a GOOD DAY!

It was a dry county... Meant we got out earlier and got to the border earlier.

Kev95GS
01-26-2006, 11:06 PM
Day 2 we head out after breakfast at the Waffle House... a must... around 6:45 and chased our shadows for the rest of the morning

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022249-M.jpg

We got gas and burritos in Pecos, TX...

Then on to Marfa,TX...is that ridges in the background?

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022574-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022571-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022577-M.jpg

We got to the border around 4 pm, checked it out, and set up camp at an RV park east of Presidio, TX on Hwy 170.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022583-M.jpg

The sunset was nice and Mexico was just over those mountains! :dance

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022584-M.jpg

I think we rode about 565, BMW, miles and it was another GOOD DAY!
:jose :beer

BradfordBenn
01-26-2006, 11:28 PM
Way to Go!!! :lurk

Kev95GS
01-26-2006, 11:55 PM
Up with the Sun... Big Bend is over there about 65-70 miles but we'll do that later... it got cloudy and it was about 38.
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022585-M.jpg

The border crossing took us about 30 mins and we were in Ojinaga, Chihuahua, Mexico... :bolt
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54031168-M.jpg

We're heading to Chihuahua, the capital of the State of the same name, and has a population of about a million people. We get to ride through the desert and over a few hills on the way.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022838-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022842-M.jpg

This is looking back into the good ole' U S of A :usa We've been climbing along the way.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022845-M.jpg

When we get in to Chihuahua it was BUSY and HOT.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022849-M.jpg

We stopped at the Pemex for gas and I noticed a Senor taking pictures of Dan while we're getting off the bikes and filling up. He was a reporter for the local periodico, El Diario, and with the help of another guy at the Pemex asked us some questions and said he was going to put an article in the paper the next day. What a trip...

After eating some lunch at a roadside taco stand, that was very good and on a busy road, we head on toward Cuauthemoc and we start getting into more fertile areas with pasture, hay, huge Apple orchards...Cuauthemoc was a pretty good sized town also and was very busy.

This picture is actually looking back east toward Cuauthemoc but it shows it well.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54035491-M.jpg

As we get closer to Creel it becomes much more mountainous, we get pine trees and CURVAS... :rocker

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022852-M.jpg

Kev95GS
01-27-2006, 12:09 AM
We went through San Juanito, a lot smaller than the other towns we had gone through, but still very active and busy. People out all over the main street and cars driving like they were in a parade.

We got into Creel around 4:30 - 5:00 and again, people everywhere, but not a big town.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022857-M.jpg

With the help of Raul (he stopped us as we came into town and lead us on his bicycle) we found 3 Amigos Canyon Expeditions to pick up some maps. I had e-mailed ahead and they were very helpful. Here is their web site, if you go there check them out.

http://the3amigoscanyonexpeditions.com/3amigos_001.htm

Raul is on the far left, and we are in front of 3 Amigos
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54059831-M.jpg

We talked with Salvador at 3 Amigos and asked about the activity in all the towns we went through. It was Domingo, Sunday, everyone goes to town and all the ladies dress up. It was quite lively and we saw our share of nice ladies, throughout the trip, regardless of the day.

We stayed in the Hotel Los Pinos for 350 pesos, a little less than $35, for a room with 3 beds and a bath.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54022863-M.jpg

Jimmy had a little oil leak that was from the donut gasket around the spark plug. He had adjusted his values before we left and the gasket got pinched.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023113-M.jpg

We found a nice quiet place to "practice our Espanol" and relax a little. :drink

We ate dinner at the restaurant in front and it was good stuff. :eat

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54038649-M.jpg

It gets cold when the sun goes down as the town is at 7,669 feet and sits in a valley in the Sierra Tarahumara.

We head for the bottom of the Batopilas Canyon tommorow, to Batopilas, which sits at about 1,500 feet. I have "visions of sugar plums dancin' in my head" as I go to sleep.

We rode about 332, BMW, miles today and it was a DIA MUY BUENO! :clap :thumb

PUDGYPAINTGUY
01-27-2006, 06:41 AM
Good on ya Kev, nice pics. A question for you, what insurance were you able to secure for you and your bike over in Mexico please? I want to take a trip late in the year and looking for ideas early...thanks

riderR1150GSAdv
01-27-2006, 07:30 AM
Nice photos!! :D Looks like you guys had a great time! Thanks for the link too :wow
So ,eh..... where is the rest of the story? :lurk :lurk Inquiring minds wanna know, you know? :bliss :rofl

Kev95GS
01-27-2006, 08:36 AM
Pudgy,
"what insurance were you able to secure for you and your bike over in Mexico please?"
I went through a link on Horizons Unlimited, another invaluable source of info. The link is below and the insurance portion is about mid-way down the page. It gives you quotes from a few different companies.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/country/mexico/entry.php

Rider,
Patience is a virtue... plus I only have about 400 photos to sift through. :type
the fun is just beginning... We're only through day 3, we got 10 more to go! :brow

Kevin

PUDGYPAINTGUY
01-27-2006, 09:13 AM
Pudgy,
"what insurance were you able to secure for you and your bike over in Mexico please?"
I went through a link on Horizons Unlimited, another invaluable source of info. The link is below and the insurance portion is about mid-way down the page. It gives you quotes from a few different companies.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/country/mexico/entry.php

Rider,
Patience is a virtue... plus I only have about 400 photos to sift through. :type
the fun is just beginning... We're only through day 3, we got 10 more to go! :brow

Kevin


Thanks Kevin, I can't wait for the next installment...
Andy

riderR1150GSAdv
01-27-2006, 01:37 PM
Rider,
Patience is a virtue... plus I only have about 400 photos to sift through. :type
the fun is just beginning... We're only through day 3, we got 10 more to go! :brow

Kevin

Yeah I know, but it's blowing hard and I am bored, 'cause I can't work and ride reports are cool. :D :D So I'll wait some more.... :lurk :lol :rofl

Kev95GS
01-27-2006, 09:49 PM
Day 4....
Let's go to Batopilas.... :bliss

Jimmy still had to do some maintenance work...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023117-M.jpg

Dan & Jim fix the steed, I'm not much help in that area, and we head for desayuna... breakfast...
These are early morning on the main street and highway in Creel.
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023120-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54059838-M.jpg

We ate in the front room and she cooked in the side room, which was her kitchen, her and her family lived in the rear.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54059839-M.jpg

We had burritos con huevos y corrizo, esta bien.

People would be on the sides of the road most everywhere we went, I always wondered what they were waiting for...
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54059843-M.jpg

The back of these trucks would be "Standing Room Only" to the most extreme.

The roads had been good, so far, all the way. My only caution would be if its was raining or has been. The uphill grades are especially bad. The oil tracks in the center of the road would definitely be slick in wet conditions.

The road out of Creel was very nice. We took a "brisk" pace and stopped a few times to say WOW...
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/53172583-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060749-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023124-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023130-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023134-M.jpg

After about 50 miles of smiles.... :D :D :D :D :D x10

We find our turn...
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023137-M.jpg

Kev95GS
01-27-2006, 10:04 PM
The road goes to gravel for about 40 miles and it's time to let the air out and get on the pegs. The road starts out very nice and rolls through pine trees and pasture.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023139-M.jpg

Then you start to see signs of the Canyon.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023369-M.jpg

This would be Jimmy... I like to take my time and get a few photos so I stay at the rear.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023374-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023377-M.jpg

Looks like a drop off to me! :jawdrop

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/53172585-M.jpg

This is what the GS is made for. We went Interstates, highway, twisty and now gravel. The roads were well maintained and well traveled. It would definitely be messy in the wet season and in several of the switch backs it was obvious that water would be there in the rains.

Jimmy again

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023390-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023394-M.jpg

Hodag
01-27-2006, 10:21 PM
more, more, more

Kev95GS
01-27-2006, 10:36 PM
We had to share the road with more than other motorized vehicles.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023398-M.jpg

and as we descended the flora changed.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023401-M.jpg

We stopped at the bottom after crossing the bridge...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023406-M.jpg

The other direction...
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54023411-M.jpg

Since we are at the river level the road stays lower in the canyon through La Bufa and on to Batopilas.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54024283-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54059988-M.jpg

This picture of La Bufa is coming back from Batopilas, but notice the slag from the mines. The town once had thousands of residents and had some of the richest veins of the time. Now it has 1 family.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54024260-M.jpg

Everything is up now!

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54024266-M.jpg

I came around the corner down here and there sits Jimmy in the ditch. He just ran off into the soft stuff on the side and just slid off, no get off. Everything was OK after he got it out, just a smelly clutch. I didn't have time to get a picture. When I got off, to go help, and put her on the center stand she sunk. I almost dropped mine trying to go help my bud.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54132259-M.jpg

There was a nice view though.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54024270-M.jpg

Kev95GS
01-27-2006, 11:25 PM
OK, Batopilas is just around the corner so we mount back up and head to town.

TA DA!!!! There she is!!!! !Batopilas is muy bonito!

Here is a link to some info on Batopilas.

http://www.coppercanyon-mexico.com/cc-mex/ccbato.htm


http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061034-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060774-M.jpg

The city is on the right side of the river and we drive down the old cobblestone streets.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54062774-M.jpg

:nra I'm kinda feelin' like a cowboy. :jose

This is the street in front of our hotel, Hotel Batopilas, and the 2 people are Bob and Mary... more about them in a moment.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54024289-M.jpg

Hotel Batopilas. Lt Dan is settling up with Dona Tina. Un cuarto con tres camas, 240 pesos. We had a hot shower as well. Our room was there on the left side as you went in the doors, right on the street.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54024273-M.jpg

We inquired about aparcamiento, open the doors and pull em on in.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54024276-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54024281-M.jpg

So, we got there. Now I'm tired, I think I've had enough for tonight. I have a bunch to put in about some of the folks we met, places we went, food we ate and I don't think I can do it justice till tomorrow.
More Later... Hasta Manana mi amigos!

Kev95GS
01-28-2006, 06:47 PM
Howdy All,

I hope everyone had as good a day as I did. It was beautiful today but I needed to clean up The Old Girl.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54221645-M.jpg

Before...
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54221632-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54221640-M.jpg

After....
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54221638-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54221658-M.jpg

Anyway hope everyone had a great day.

On with the story.

Kev95GS
01-28-2006, 07:58 PM
After we got situated at the Hotel Batopilas we met Bob and Mary who were staying in the hotel as well.

Both live in CA and Bob had been coming to Baopilas for 20 years or so. His first trip he got stuck there by a rock side that wasn't passable for 3 weeks a lady took him in and kept him fed and he helped out around town and others. He knows many of the locals and had been a guide in the town and surrounding area in the past.

Mary works for a large pharmaceutical company and was up for an adventure and came down with Bob, they had only known each other for a short time.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54226048-M.jpg

We went down toward the Central Plaza to see what we could see.

We saw this on the way.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54059987-M.jpg

And this.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54062776-M.jpg

This is looking back up the street toward the Hotel Batopilas from about 3-4 blocks south. The man in the yellow shirt and white skirt is a local Tarahumara Indian. We had also seen one walk out of the middle of the canyons when we crossed the bridge for the first time. (the one you could see from the top of the Canyon overlook from earlier).

Our new friend Bob gave us a bunch of pictures that he had taken of one of the Tarahumara villages playing thier version of football with a hand carved wooden ball against a neighboring village. They are very colorful and resourceful. These Indians are renowned for being able to run very long distances and having great stamina. They usually do it kicking one of the wooden balls.

If you turn right just past the Tarahumara, the El Zaguan is about a block down on the left. We'll go there in just a few.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54059983-M.jpg

This one is a block further south still looking up the same street. This was a very nice old church.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54059985-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54230932-M.jpg

This was a swinging bridge to get to the other side of the river. There were a lot of homes and a school on the other side. Notice the yellow sign?

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060769-M.jpg

It's a public safety annoucement letting everyone know what a save load limit is on the bridge.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060772-M.jpg

We headed down to the El Zaguan for a refreshment. We should have gone here first so would know where we were.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060752-M.jpg

This was looking out the back of the cantina area. Nice backdrop.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54230923-M.jpg

This was the Cantina looking the other way.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060754-M.jpg

riderR1150GSAdv
01-28-2006, 08:07 PM
Waaaaaay cool! :thumb Thanks for sharing the ride!!! :thumb :dance

Kev95GS
01-28-2006, 08:38 PM
We met "Antonio" or "Romido", pick one, he told us he had 2 names gave them both and told us to call him Antonio. That night while we talking to Bob and Lynn, I haven't introduced her yet. She's about 60 and lives alone, full time, in Batopilas for about the last 7-8 years, has a small Jewelry store and sells some of the local Tarahumara crafts and I believe was from MI. They didn't know anyone named Antonio. We told Bob "the guy we were talking to ffor the last 2 hours at the cantina", he says "His name is Romido". We knew they knew one another as Romido's mother is who had taken in Bob when he was stranded and they had told us about it at the El Zaguan. I guess Romido thought we could remember Antonio better.

Jimmy is on the left, or Himmy now, then me, then Romido in the yellow shirt, Dan, Romido's best friend Carlos and I have forgotten the other guys name.


http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060758-M.jpg

Romido's father built the stone water tower you see in the pictures and Romido is a mason as well. He had been learning English and we were all practicing with one another. What a great experience. :beer

We went to dinner at the Swinging Bridge Restaurant that evening.
Here is Lynn, Himmy and Dan. The food was fantastic. We all had the same, vegetarian plate, and it was great. The rice had a lime flavor to it with a peice of fresh cilantro on it. The guacamole was fresh and tasty. :eat

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060763-M.jpg

We also met Suzanna and her brother Nachito. Their father, Nacho, owned the restaurant and was a friend of Bob, Roberto as the local called him, and Lynn's.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060761-M.jpg

If you showed them their picture on the screen after you took it they got a huge kick out of it and wanted to see more. Too fun!

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54060766-M.jpg
and Batman.

The local police came in around 8:00 and ran all the local off. New law from the new Mayor. The visitors didn't have to leave till 10:00. Lynn and I hung out for a minute and I had to walk back to the Hotel Batopilas by myself.

This was on the plaza and a couple of kids were playing Soccer there as well.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54231047-M.jpg

We had decided to stay 2 nights in Batopilas, we had only planned on 1 originally but knew after we had been there no more than an hour that we had to stay at least 2.

Kev95GS
01-28-2006, 08:52 PM
Waaaaaay cool! :thumb Thanks for sharing the ride!!! :thumb :dance

Thanks Rider. I've seen other ride reports that I really got a kick out of so I figure I should try and return the favor.

I got a huge amount of info from Adventure rider. In particular from threads by gaspipe and lasvegasrider. Lasvegasrider talked to me on the phone about various things. Great guy.

Quick question for everyone. My wife says I tend to get a little excessive.
Should I try to trim it back some?

Kevin

Kev95GS
01-28-2006, 09:51 PM
2 Stories, Concunos and El Stinkay! El Stinkay!

Romido is the first one.

I introduced Lt Dan on the first page as "My sister in laws husband" Here is why -

I told you we were practicing our respective new languages. I told Romido that Dan & I are brother in laws, that "Mi esposa y Dan's esposa es hermanas". He told me that we weren't and that in Espanol we were "concunos" (should have tilde over n) I think a loose translation is "with in laws", not "cunados" (should have tilde over n), "brother in laws". We discussed it for about 1/2 and hour and he drew graphs on the table with his Sharpie (if your ever there look for the word written on a table) to illustrate. He was right and we don't really have an English word, that I know of anyway, that correctly describes being married to in laws. My wife is his in law and his wife is my in law. The way I see the concunos is a pretty good describtion.

The best part to me, of the story, was that we were able to learn from each other and everyone appreciated the others eagerness to communicate in the others native tongue. I'll never forget concunos and I will think about Batopilas everytime I introduce someone to my sister in laws husband.


El Stinkay! El Stinkay!

Our room was on the street and there is no glass in the windows. Just screen and wood shutters to shut from the inside. We had 3 beds and Himmy and Lt Dans beds were up against the street side wall, under the windows. I was woke up from just dropping off with the sound of a truck pulling up right in front of the Hotel Batopilas and parking and leaving the engine running. The fumes were coming in Dan's window. He gets up and yells outside in English a few times and got no response. Finally he starts yelling at them, "El Stinkay! El Stinkay!" They pulled around the block after a few minutes of Dan yelling at them to "Turn it Off! El Sinkay" and come back and park there again and leave it running. Same scenario, El Stinkay, El Stinkay!

The yelling probably woke me more than anything and I started laughing at Dan.

I tell him, "I don't think they understand "El Stinkay". Its not a word in Espanol"

"Well its stinks and its coming right in my window. They won't cut it off"
"El Stinkay! El Stinkay!"

I was giggling like a kid. Laughing my head off yelling back "El Stinkay! El Stinkay!"

They finally shut it down and get a room at the Hotel Batopilas.

Dan gets back in the bed laughing his butt off too and says "I guess that guy doesn't speak English or Spanish, but he's sure got a fine looking woman."

We both went back to sleep laughing like little school girls. I can't remember if Himmy ever woke up.

This is getting long but the best parts coming.

Fast Forward to Wednesday morning and we are packing up to head out along with the couple that is in the truck. I never saw them on Tuesday but saw the truck. We talked a little in the courtyard around the bikes and turns out the guy is German and works for BMW autos in Berlin. He goes out to start the truck, same one that was under the window. It ran on propane and was rather hard to start so once it finally started he didn't want to shut it off.

We stood out on the sidewalk and talked with them for a few more minutes and he starts to shut the door and pull away. We tell them "Adios" and he pulls away yelling "El Stinkay! El Stinkay" :rofl :rofl :rofl :bliss :laugh

We all cracked up all over again.

Oh, and he did have fine looking woman. Lt Dan can't speak much Espanol but he can spot a fine looking woman.

Kev95GS
01-28-2006, 10:04 PM
Both nights we went to sleep in Batopilas we were laughing. It was good.

There was always some type of background noice. In the moutains you would stop and there would be goats roaming around on the hillsides above you, below you. In the cities people, autos, chickens.

In batopilas we heard roosters all night, livestock walking on the cobblestone streets outside our windows. The garbage can was suspended on a pivot, outside Himmies window, and some sort of animal would get in it at night, screech, and when it would move away the pivot would screech again then clange against something. The roosters would start at one end of the canyon and make a rooster chain to the other end. One would crow, then the next, finally it was close to you and move on north till you couldn't hear then start at the south again.

We were on complete and total sensory overload.

All our senses were assaulted by all the new things and experiences. Not the normal everyday similarity that we grow used to. New language, people, customs, food, surrounding, sounds, smells.... :rocker :dance

Today Bob was going to take us around to see some of the area. But first we wander around town and get some desayuno and cafe.

This is the gazebo that I had passed last night, nice either way.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54230927-M.jpg

We start north heading out with Bob and Mary to take our tour.

On the way we watched "Caballo Blanca", The White Horse. I had read about this guy on Gaspipes ride report on Adv Rider. His name is Micah True(sp) and is an American. He runs, alot. He was running here in sandals. Bob knows him and stopped to tell him something. They say he has run from Batopilas to Urique in 10 hours. It's takes normal people 2 days on the rocky trail into the other canyon.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54059986-M.jpg

The plants are beautiful.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061031-M.jpg

Did I mention the mines of Batopilas?

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061033-M.jpg

The aqueduct runs to just below this mine entrance where it used to turn electric generators. The aqueduct starts 3 miles up the canyon. Batopilas was the second city in Mexico to receive electricity because of the mines and the need for the aqueduct.

This is above the aqueduct.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54251967-M.jpg

The bridge is the one we came into town on and we are going across it and to the south to see the old San Miguel Hacienda ruins.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061032-M.jpg

Kev95GS
01-28-2006, 11:08 PM
I'll show you one of the Poinsettia(sp) "trees".

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54254349-M.jpg

I'll show you the ruins tomorrow. I gotta crash.

!Hasta Manana!

Kevin

Kev95GS
01-29-2006, 09:40 AM
Buenas Dias,

We are headed to the mine ruins. The Batopilas area had been mined for silver for a very long time but 1880 Alexander Sheppard purchased the mines for around $600,000 and moved his rather large family and entourage to Batopilas from Washington DC. They mined more than 20 million ounces on silver from the mines before closing them down. Most of the buildings in the area, the aqueduct, electricity, etc where a direct result of his building up the mines and area. The employed as many as 1500 people and had a company store, medical facility that the workers did not have to pay for and numerous other advances for the day.

There is a book written by the second to youngest son, Grant Sheppard, called the Silver Magnet. It was written in 1938 and is no longer in print. Usless you happen to know someone who had re prints done. We did. I purchased a copy from Lynn and would recommend the read to anyone either interested in Batopilas, life in Mexico from the 1880's through the 1920's, and especially if you have been there. The description in the book come to life once you've seen where he is describing. Check your local library or go buy one from Lynn in Batopilas, the later would be my suggestion.

This was the main offices for the mines.
the photo was taken from the east side of the building with the mountain side going up behind us.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061035-M.jpg

Going around the right side you went down some stairs and could look up from the bottom floor. There were 3 all together.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54254350-M.jpg

This was between the building and the river. The west side of the building.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54062775-M.jpg

Behind us, from the original front shot, there was a building that used to be guest quarters and it butted up to the retaining wall were the moutainside was cut back to make some flat area. The first photo is kinda blurry but it will give some perspective. Notice the rooster.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54291556-M.jpg

Then this is looking up from the same position. The guest quarters back wall is on the left.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54291558-M.jpg

They tried to make every convenience available.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061037-M.jpg

It was a four holer and had a nice ventilation stack in the middle. Bob told us that the main house had water flowing under the toilets and so would auto flush, right down to the river. Good thing the EPA didn't find out.

These pits were for part of the process to liberate the silver from its residence in the stone. They apparently used arsenic in the process and there is still some there. They didn't want you to get around it.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54251965-M.jpg

I had to take a picture of the old machine shop. It just needs a roof, some benches and few motorcycles in there and we would all feel right at home.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54291559-M.jpg

There was some building going on in the area where we were. I didn't take any pictures and was torn as to whether I thought it was a good thing or not (as if my opinion mattered anyway). It looked like there was going to be some hotel rooms there, close to the old Hacienda, actually using one of the old buildings.

There is talk of paving the road and there is obviously more and more tourism there. My fear is that by making it easier to get there and less adventurous that it will become more commercialized and will lose some of its appeal, however, the locals could probably use the boost. Whatever is best for them. :thumb :dunno

We're hungry... :eat

We walk back to town and find a nice restaurant old the Plaza Chica called Carolinas. It was muy bien. Himmy on the left, Lt Dan in the middle and me.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54291562-M.jpg

It's still customary to have a siesta in early afternoon so "when in Mexico". We hung low for a while and even took a little nap. After our siesta Dan & I did some laundry with the locals.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54251962-M.jpg

We washed em' in the river and laid em' on big rocks to dry. There were several local women with their families doing the same and the cows just watched.

We met Martin and his father. They were some more friends of Roberto's.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54291567-M.jpg

Kev95GS
01-29-2006, 10:06 AM
After having a siesta, doing the wash and just hangin' out for a while we went back to El Zaguan before heading to dinner with Bob and Mary. Romido wasn't there but a few of the locals were playing cards. I didn't watch to see what they were playing but there was money on the table.

Bob had stopped in a small tienda on our way to the ruins earlier in the day and made arrangements for dinner. The restaurant was on the back porch of Dona Clarita's home and the menu is whatever she is having that day.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061043-M.jpg

This is the back porch where we set and the there was a balcony that overlooked the river off of this. WOW, what an experience.
The balcony is to the right in this picture.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061321-M.jpg

The little girl stayed with us most through most of dinner. Of course I took some pictures and she wanted to see them. I asked her name and she told me Anna. Then her mother said her name was Jeniffer. Later I asked her again and she told me "Anna"

Oh man, what a meal. Everything was fresh, fresh, fresh. First we had vegtable soup that was in a chicken stock with fresh carrots, potatoes, onion and large chunks of fresh goat cheese. Then two enchiladas. Again with fresh goat cheese and little small fresh chives cut up on top, just the right size and so tender. I got a pictures of one before is was devoured.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061041-M.jpg

!Muy Sabroso! !Muy, muy Sabroso! Very Tasty!

Our hostess is sitted next to Bob in the top left. Dona (should have tilde on n) Clarita. She was probably 70's and was a very fine cook and lady. When Bob introduced us to her we all stood and took off our hats. She got a huge smile on her face but was quite humble and almost blushing at the same time.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061042-M.jpg

Bob wouldn't let us pay, he wouldn't even tell us how much to leave as a "propina", tip. We left her about 100 pesos which was too much but none of us could have had that experience, for that much, back home.

We left with full bellies and we're still experiencing...

Total sensory overload and total emersion.

Himmy commented that the meal and experience was "Killa". Another source of laughter for the evening.

Kev95GS
01-29-2006, 11:04 AM
After reflecting back on our experiences in Batopilas I think about the book I mentioned earlier "The Silver Magnet". In it a phase is repeated several times. "Dios es grande", God is Great. It was used in cases were people may have survived something that should have been disastrous or in cases where indeed just "Dios es grande".

That is the feeling that I have when I reflect back.

God had indeed smiled on us in our adventure. We would probably not have experienced many on the things we did in Batopilas if it had not been for Bob. Mary certainly had a wonderful guide for her first experience in the area as well. She was staying about 2 weeks before taking the train to Los Mochis on the Sea of Cortez, then a ferry to Baja and a bus ride back to the states. Bob said he would stay until it was time to go.

My bike got a new name at the dinner. "La Chica Vieja (b-a-ha)", "The Old Girl", I had been thinking about for a few days and it was made official this night.

It was our last night in Batopilas and as I mentioned before we went to bed giggling like little school girls with the sounds of the night all around us.

We got up the next morning and walked down for breakfast. I had Huevos Rancheros and again "Muy Sabroso". I think Himmy had Hot Cakes and I believe Lt Dan had Huevos con Salchicha, bologna. We walked around for a little and talked with Temo, our bar tender at El Zaguan.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061319-M.jpg

The plan is to head south down the river, through town, and go to Satevo. This village is home to the "Lost Mission". It was apparently built sometime in the 1600's as theree is a bell in the tower with a 1600's date on it. I didn't climb it to verify and you will see why in a minute.

Our way down the canyon to Satevo.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061327-M.jpg

A nice view of the Mission.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54254356-M.jpg

What a sight in the middle of this remote place. We were told that the Tarahumara were enslaved to build this and that they were none to happy about. So much so that after if was constructed that they killed 6 or 7 Jesuit priests and they had no other history of killing or warring with others. (not sure as to the validity but take it for what its worth). None the less it is quite impressive.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54254358-M.jpg

from the opposite corner

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54254365-M.jpg

the Belltower

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061342-M.jpg

the alter

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54300984-M.jpg

from the alter looking to the entrance

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061353-M.jpg

& out the front door to the view. !Dios es grande!

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061339-M.jpg

We took the key back to the nice lady who lived behind the mission and headed back up the canyon to Batopilas and the climb back up the canyon.

WE WILL RETURN TO BATOPILAS ONE DAY!

We waved and honked as we went through town and with expectations of new sights and adventures, but fully willing to stay longer in Batopilas, we departed.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54254344-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54251971-M.jpg

Watch out for these guys...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061358-M.jpg

We stopped in La Bufa and talked with some guys on 4 wheelers. They were doing a story for Quad magazine. When I took a picture of the slag I must have hit the button by mistake and took this photo. But it looked like a good fairwell to where we had been. It was completely unintentional.

Adios mi amigos.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54024264-M.jpg

Back across the river.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54251978-M.jpg

We made our way back up the canyon and back to Creel for the night.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54061369-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54251974-M.jpg

Kev95GS
01-29-2006, 11:35 AM
We had told Dona Tina, the owner of Hotel Batopilas, that she was "muy amable", very amiable, hospitible, and she said the same of us and told us to stay with Margaritas in Creel. We believe the owners are related in some way.

When we get to the plaza in Creel another young man runs up to help us out. "Donde esta Margarita's". He indicates that he will show us and takes off in run across the plaza. Gotta keep up. When we get there we realize that it is Raul again. The young man who showed us around the first night. Margaritas is where he wanted us to go the first time, so we obliged this time.

Our friend Raul. I asked him how old he is, 14. "Are you a "chico" or "hombre". "no chico, hombre". Not a boy, a man.
We asked about his bike. It has a flat.

Raul in front of Margaritas

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54062777-M.jpg

Margarita's was a nice place. It was 550 pesos for a room with 2 beds and bath, but included dinner and breakfast for each of us. Himmy slept on the floor with the air mattress.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54062780-M.jpg

Lt Dan and I had a few cold beers in the cantina and were entertained by Pepito and his guitar. His voice filled the room and Himmy said that he could hear him in the room.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54062778-M.jpg

Dinner that night was only average as compared to what we had been enjoying so far. It seemed to be a little more "homogenized", maybe since there are more tourists here. Creel is a stop on the train. As we came in we saw flat bed rail cars with many large RV's and automobiles on them. They would put them on the train and travel either from Los Mochis north or from Chihuahua south.

We met several other guests that night. A couple from Montana, I believe, and he was an Iron Butter. He had seen our plates and commented that he had done his Iron Butt aroundd 85.

We also met an English lady, with a quite proper English accent, who was traveling alone and was enjoying her travels.

The next morning we had frost on the bikes and had to move them into the sun to get them started.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54062781-M.jpg

The bikes wouldn't start in the morning when we stayed in Creel the first night as well. We think it is a combination of the altitude, cold and gas. They would finally start after Himmy would thumb the starter. Then and only then would they start. It was pretty weird. We laughed but Himmy would get his started first then Lt Dan would have him hit his starter, vaarrrroom, then I would have him hit mine, vaarrroom. Good thing we had Himmy, there was no BMW dealer around. Lt Dan's was always the hardest to start, even though it is a 1200. Go figure.

I had seen this little girl on our first stop here. She was selling baskets and I didn't buy one then. This time I did.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54062782-M.jpg

The plan today is to go El Divisadero, basically a train stop with a fantastic view of 3 of the Canyons, a very nice Hotel and some vendors. Then on to Basaseachi and the falls.

riderR1150GSAdv
01-29-2006, 01:45 PM
Thanks Rider. I've seen other ride reports that I really got a kick out of so I figure I should try and return the favor.

Quick question for everyone. My wife says I tend to get a little excessive.
Should I try to trim it back some?

Kevin

Your very welcome!! :laugh

Don't you dare trim it back :nono Or else.... ;) ;)

Kev95GS
01-29-2006, 02:34 PM
So on to El Divisadero. WOW!

These next 4 pictures are connectors. Imagine overlapping them to get the whole picture.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54307282-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54307288-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54307293-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54307296-M.jpg

You can see the Batopilas and Urique canyons from here. The Batopilas would be to the north and Urique to the south. The first picture in the above set is looking toward the Batopilas. The last is looking toward the Urique.

For a little perspective

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54307303-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54307299-M.jpg

Another toward Batopilas Canyon

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54307306-M.jpg

The train stops here for 20 minutes and the local Tarahumara sell there wares here.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308474-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54307312-M.jpg

The train station

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308471-M.jpg

When you go here make sure to go hungry. Bob had told us that "the grub there is great". He hadn't steered us wrong yet and this time was no exception. :eat :bliss

In the covered area there were 55 gallon drums that have been converted to stoves and warmers. Let me tell you it was great! You can see one of the stoves in the foreground of this photo.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308473-M.jpg

Kev95GS
01-29-2006, 03:26 PM
We were southwest of Creel and we went a little further south to see if we could find another vantage point. We didn't but we were on the road to Urique. With hindsight we kinda wished we had continued on down into that canyon to Urique, but alas we went back to Creel and on to Basaseachi.

As you come north from Creel you come out of the mountains and pine trees to more pasture area.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308132-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308135-M.jpg

We went back through San Juanito and turned west. We traveled through the valley and started back into the mountains again.

I've showed this one before but now it is in context as to where we were.
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54035491-M.jpg[

A little booty shot.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308139-M.jpg

The road to Basaseachi after this picture is AWESOME! Unfortunately it was so awesome I didn't get any pictures. I guess you'll have to go for yourself. :stick

It was just a squiggly mass of curves, climbs, descents, switch backs. :dance :twirl :rocker

It was getting dark we we reached Basaseachi and we camped for the first time in Mexico. It was very nice, in the pine trees. We set up camp, 50 pesos a man and 25 pesos for an overflowing wheelbarrow of wood for our fire. We needed the fire. Especially in the morning.

It was about 50 or so when we went to bed. I woke up more than once in then night getting cold. Before is was over with I had on 2 pairs of long johns, 2 pairs of socks and was inside 2 sleeping bags. I finally got up at around 5am, got the fire going and hung by bare feet in front of it.

IT WAS 17 FREAKIN DEGREES! FAHRENHEIT!

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308142-M.jpg

The hex head just didn't want to start till it got warmed up and Himmy hit the starter.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308470-M.jpg

We met Molly and Max here. They were traveling in their home. They were from New Jersey. Molly, mother, Max, son. Father left and wasn't sure where he wanted to live. So they sold the home, bought a small camper van and had been traveling for about a year while the "dad" made up his mind.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308155-M.jpg

We had breakfast with what we had and Molly and Max shared what they had, for us sharing the fire, and we head off for the falls. We decided we needed to go to another spot to see them because we where on the top side of the falls and wanted to see the away version.

On the way over we went through a Military Checkpoint. We had gone through one on our first day and it wasn't a real big deal. The first one they did want to see through some of our stuff. I my guy wanted to see inside my Kermit chair bag to make sure it wasn't a gun. After they were done they wanted to know if we had cigarettes. I did and gave them a pack.

At the checkpoint this morning they only wanted to know about the bikes. We talked for a while and then...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308145-M.jpg

Oh, they wanted to know if we had cigarettes. I gave them my last 2 American Marlboro Lights and we went on to the falls. We came back through a little later and they just waived us through.

Basaseachi Falls is the 2nd highest in Mexico, it has a free fall of 246 meters. It was quite spectacular even though it was the dry season. I could only imagine it in the wet season.

The lead up..

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308153-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308150-M.jpg

The teaser...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308464-M.jpg

The falls...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308465-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54308148-M.jpg

Tonight would be our last night in Mexico and we head out of the falls and back toward Cuauhtemoc and Chihuahua.

Kev95GS
01-29-2006, 09:16 PM
I've been on Mexico time and after updated any mileages or my feelings on the end of the day as with the first 3 days. The all kinda rolled together. :stick :clap :jose

We're currently on the 8th day, Friday, viernes, 13 Enero, 13 January.

Day 4, Lunes, 9 Enero. From Creel to Batopilas. 92, BMW, miles and it was the BEST DAY YET. !EL MEJOR DIA TODAVIA!

Day 5, Martes, 10 Enero. From Batopilas to Hacienda San Miguel. 0, BMW, miles, but probably a few on foot, and it was the !EL MEJOR DIA TODAVIA!

Day 6, Miercoles, 11 Enero. From Batopilas to Satevo, back through Batopilas and on to Creel. 102, BMW, miles and it was the Hardest day yet. Muy dificil Dia todavia.

Day 7, Jueves, 12 Enero. From Creel to El Divisadero to San Rafael (should've stayed on that road :brow ) back to Creel and on to Basaseachi. 212, BMW, miles and it was A Squiggly Day. (Don't even think I'll try to figure that one out in Espanol. I would guess it contains the word "curvas". I learned this from the Federale (sp), the tall one in the picture, he wanted to know how fast in the "curvas y recto", curves and straight.

That should catch everything up. We are headed back down the Squiggly road to Cuauhtemoc.

Kev95GS
01-29-2006, 10:18 PM
Middle of Day 8 we ran into the Polici in Cuauhtemoc.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54344279-M.jpg

We head on to Chihuahua and get in around 3 or 4 and fill up at the Pemex. Lt Dan gets direction to El Diario while we're there and we head off to the newspaper. Remember on page 4, Domingo, where the reporter took pictures. We're going to find the article.

We finally realize we need help, it is a large, crowded, busy city at 4 on Viernes, Friday. Lt Dan, hes always up front, I'm always in the back, (you get to see the show from the back) asked a delivery guy on a scooter to show us where. First he points, knows that want work and takes us a few blocks, points again, nah, still gotta show us, goes a few more blocks, points, we get split up and he just takes us. We tip him and off we go into El Diario. Himmy stays with bikes on the sidewalk and calls his Diane, his wife.

The senoritas at the receptionist desk spoke no English, however they were quite attractive, but we finally got them to understand. Un foto on Domingo, 8 Enero, en El Diario on Lunes, 9 Enero. I saw the light go on and one starts to tell us to go sign in, the other shakes her head and says "No" and motions that she will just take us. Chicks dig bikers. :dance
PS my wifes heard this story pretty much the same way. :laugh

She took us to a Security guard that spoke English and we thanked her profusely. He took us to the archives and asked the lady to help find the article. They looked through everyday and couldn't find it. He tells us that he rides an 883 and remembers reading the article. He asked us to wait a minute... COOL, riders always help other brother riders. :rocker :thumb

He came back and started thumbing through the front page section and produces this....(see attachment at bottom)

The translation is probably a little loose. Someone that works with my wife translated it and she typed it up.

We got three copies and headed out of town after muy, muy, !Muchos Gracias mi amigos!

Kev95GS
01-29-2006, 10:58 PM
We got out of Chihuahua pretty easy and head on to Aldama.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343047-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343050-M.jpg

It's mostly brown, desert and mountains again and has been since Cuauhtemoc.

When we got to Aldama we could only find one Hotel, the lady says it was the only one becuase Chihuahua is so close. We got un cuarto con tres camas for 450 pesos and started our last night in Mexico.

There wasn't much around and we had a nice courtyard.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343051-M.jpg

We met Malco, 8...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343052-M.jpg

and his sister, Sarah, 6...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343054-M.jpg

They conned Himmy into a ride around the courtyard.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343055-M.jpg
http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343057-M.jpg

They were cute kids and they were learning English in school so we practiced some with them.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343058-M.jpg

I have 2 daughters 7 & 4 and all the kids made me miss mine.

It's our last night in Mexico and our last night with Himmy. Tomorrow, once we cross back over the border, Himmy becomes Jimmy again and heads back to Nashville.

Lt Dan and I are to meet up with our buddy Sonny, who's already in Presidio and had came over from Austin, and we plan to spend tomorrow night in Big Bend then ride the River Road on Domingo and then head to Austin.

We rode about... I guess I didn't write down my mileage that day, but I think it was about 335, BMW, miles and it was a Tres Aventureros Dia.

charleshickman
01-30-2006, 02:54 PM
Great report. Great pictures.

I did the road to Batopilas last year on an unloaded DR650 (other than my ample self), and left some pucker marks on the seat. My admiration for doing it on fully loaded GS's.

Kev95GS
01-30-2006, 03:05 PM
Thanks Charles. I really loved that place!

Wait till you see some of the Big Bend stuff. :bliss I will try to wrap this thing up in a day or so.

Kevin

riderR1150GSAdv
01-30-2006, 06:25 PM
Thanks again for sharing!! :brad

Kev95GS
01-30-2006, 08:13 PM
Thanks again for sharing!! :brad

Thanks Rider,

Thanks, for letting me know.

The dichotomy of the rest is killing me.

Kevin

PUDGYPAINTGUY
01-30-2006, 08:14 PM
Great report Kevin,thanks for the pics and taking the time. I showed them to my wife and she says I can have a hall-pass in the future to go down there...awesome! :D

Kev95GS
01-30-2006, 08:21 PM
Great report Kevin,thanks for the pics and taking the time. I showed them to my wife and she says I can have a hall-pass in the future to go down there...awesome! :D


!VAMOS! !VAMOS! !VAMOS!

When do you want to go? :brow

Acutally, I think this will be my curtain call for a while. I realized how much I was missing and how unfair it is to "mi Esposa", Peggy, to be gone so long.

I can't think of a better way to hang up the "Big Spurs" than on a trip like this!

I will, however, NOT, be hanging up the weekend "SPURS"! :bikes

Kev95GS
01-30-2006, 08:31 PM
Ya'll wanna go to Big Bend?

PUDGYPAINTGUY
01-30-2006, 08:55 PM
!VAMOS! !VAMOS! !VAMOS!

When do you want to go? :brow

Acutally, I think this will be my curtain call for a while. I realized how much I was missing and how unfair it is to "mi Esposa", Peggy, to be gone so long.

I can't think of a better way to hang up the "Big Spurs" than on a trip like this!

I will, however, NOT, be hanging up the weekend "SPURS"! :bikes


Kevin that sounds great! I get a tour guide and your wife and mine gets a trip to buy some fresh tortillas and sangrias...lol. Muy Bueno!!!

I'll leave the spurs thang alone for now as we have just met...lmbo :D

Kev95GS
01-30-2006, 10:07 PM
Day 9, Sabado, 14 Enero.

We got up before the Sun and pack up to head for the States. :usa

Aladama is on the north side of Chihuahua so we get a nice Sunrise.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343061-M.jpg

We head on toward Ojinaga and stop for breakfast. My last day there and I have Hot Cakes. Someone other than me has had them everyday since we have been in Mexico so I figure I better have em' before we leave. They were good but I wish had Huevos Rancheros.

The Mexico border takes about 20 minutes and the US border takes about the same after they open up 2 more lanes.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343067-M.jpg

As I mentioned, Himmy has to head to the corral so we bid our farewells and Jimmy heads to Pecos for burritos.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343068-M.jpg

We called to see about Sonny and got a message he was right down the street. We started to suit up and he pulls in the parking lot. Not 10 mins from when Himmy leaves.

He didn't see us, but we saw him. Lt Dan takes the stern and I take the starboard. We scared the crap out of him, he just about dropped the bike. Later that night he told us we almost met "Thunder & Lightning" (motioning to his biceps)... How corny is that? :dunno

Jimmy, Dan & I had met a couple, Bob & Joanne, at the RV campground the first night camping in Presidio. They had matching KLR's and were the camp hosts.

They wanted us to tell them how the trip went when we returned so we stopped to let them know. They claimed they were going in March when their committment was up at the Loma Aloma.

We take off south east down TX 170...

WOOOOOO WHHHHOOOOOOO!!!!!!!
Compress, decompress, right, left, right, compress, decompress.... On and on.

Sorry no pictures but if you have to ask... you wouldn't understand. :rocker :rocker :rocker :rocker

The road follows the terrain along the Rio Grande and you go through washes and back up (all on asphalt and concrete) up hills, down, around, up, down.

I've ridden Top Thrill Dragster at Cedar Point

http://www.cedarpoint.com/public/inside_park/rides/thrill/ttd/specs/index.cfm

and..... OK, Top Thrill was better, but not by much...

We stopped for a photo op.

Here's Sonny.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343073-M.jpg

In front of the Rio Grande
Mexico to the right, USA to the left.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343074-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343070-M.jpg

We head on to Study Butte and Big Bend!

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343076-M.jpg

Kev95GS
01-30-2006, 10:39 PM
Terlingua & Study Butte are pretty much the same place. IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STICKS. Big Bend was 'bout 2 miles past that so we were officially "BEHIND THE STICKS"

What a fantastic place!

We had just come from an incredible experience in Mexico where all our senses were assaulted from every possible angle. Sound, color, language, smell, food, culture...

Now we were in the middle of nowhere with nothing other than God's Glory assaulting us. !Dios es Grande!

I told you it was a dichtomy.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343082-M.jpg

This place was almost as far away from the other as it could be... yet it was right across the border no more than 400 miles, as the crow flies, from Batopilas.

We camped on the western side of the park at the entrance to the Chimney's West trail.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343091-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343089-M.jpg

Sonny and Lt Dan discuss the finer qualities, and best screen set up of the Garmin V...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343087-M.jpg

as the Sun went down over Mexico.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343093-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343095-M.jpg

Looking east.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343096-M.jpg

and back to Mexico

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343097-M.jpg

After the Sun went down, and before, it was overcast. There was a full Moon behind the clouds and we had a little hole over us for a while. Ozone?

But it was mostly overcast and you could still see like this.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343100-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343102-M.jpg

When we went to bed there was COMPLETE & UTTER SILENCE. No kidding. (Some may have experienced this before or may be suprised by my reaction. I have never experienced this kind of solitude.) No insects, no wind noise, no roosters, no dogs, no automobiles, no airplanes, no windchimes, no cell phones, no radios, no refrigerators, no central heat, no TV, no trains, no interstates, no clocks, no fans, no computers... you get the picture, ABSOLUTE SILENCE.

Except for the occasional snore or :fart

I honestly have never experienced a place quite like this and I went to bed in complete AWE!

I'm still not sure about mileage because I had left a day off in Aldama but it was the end of day 9, Sabado, 4 Enero and it was a Very Quiet Night.

BradfordBenn
01-30-2006, 10:42 PM
Tell me again what I am doing at the office :banghead

Kev95GS
01-30-2006, 11:01 PM
You are investing your time now, so you may have your own time later to spend as you will. :brow

Sorry, I don't mean to be a smart..., I come by it naturally. :stick

Kevin

Kev95GS
01-30-2006, 11:05 PM
I'm outie.
I should be able to get through Big Bend tomorrow and then cover the Texas Hill Country on Miercoles o Jueves. There aren't a whole lotta pictures in the Hill Country. Come to think of it there may only be 1. :rocker :bliss :dance :stick

DADODIRT
01-31-2006, 01:11 PM
Thanks for posting all the great pictures!!
I was supposed to do a trip down there last year but family stuff took over. Looks like it'll be 2007 till I can go. I can't wait. Ride on......

Kev95GS
01-31-2006, 06:28 PM
Thanks for posting all the great pictures!!
I was supposed to do a trip down there last year but family stuff took over. Looks like it'll be 2007 till I can go. I can't wait. Ride on......

De nada,
It's really been my pleasure. It's helped me remember and relive the whole thing.

You do need to make the trip. It is well worth it. Post yours when you get back. :brow

Kevin

Kev95GS
01-31-2006, 08:50 PM
Day 10, Domingo, 15 Enero

We start the morining by stripping down the steeds.

"La Chica Vieja" is ready for some gravel, dirt, sand, large rocks, ...
We let some air out of the tires and are going to explore the River Road in Big Bend. :nyah

That is Pena Mountain in the background.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343104-M.jpg

We head down Old Maverick road toward Santa Elena Canyon and the Rio Grande.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343085-M.jpg

Sonny likes to play. :burnout

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343105-M.jpg

Just the Santa Elena

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343107-M.jpg

On the River Road

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343110-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343114-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343116-M.jpg

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343118-M.jpg

The River Road was nice and pretty well maintained but we got to a checkpoint... They were having a 25K and 50K run in the park today and all the runners were on the River Road ahead of us.

We chose to take Black Gap Road, which is an unmaintained road, instead of bothering the runners on River Road. As soon as we turned on it the gravel got deep so we had to stay back and keep the weight off the front. It was even more fun when a runner would be coming at you and you would have to change from one track to the other, through the really deep stuff. WOO HOO! :bolt

Got my attention more than once.

Part of Black Gap road

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343125-M.jpg

Another spot looked like a good photo opp.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343121-M.jpg

Sonny volunteered to be the "re-inactor" (is that a word).

Up...

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343126-M.jpg

and back down. :D

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343128-M.jpg

Kev95GS
01-31-2006, 08:55 PM
We found a nice spot close to the end of Black Gap, at Glenn Spring campsite and took a little break. There was actually a little water crossing at the bottom of the road here. (I mean really little)

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343130-M.jpg

We were back on River road and things were going along quite smoothly, or at least for the moment. Lt Dan and Sonny are much better at this stuff than I and they were pretty far ahead by now. I was pretty feeling pretty comfortable becuase it was graded and maintained, not like Black Gap were I would expect something like wahed out hills, large rocks, etc. I came over a little rise with a slight turn and there in the middle of the road was very deep, very fine, sand. I knew it was going to get squirrelly and made the mistake of slowing down. When I hit the sand there was a very deep rut in it that you couldn't see and I went down in it. I swear it was at least a foot and a half deep. You know the rest, down I went, no biggy, and it was more like a fall over than a throw off. :laugh

It was really pretty funny and I laughed. I was about to get my camera but a truck was coming up so I had to pick up La Chica Vieja and took off. The sand was very, very fine. Like Talcum powder.

I headed on out and was cautious for a while and just when I started to think there wouldn't be any more... :nyah . This time I kept up my speed and tried to pick a line. No problem except for a bottomless pit that you couldn't see and I bottomed out the front forks. Stayed on though and powered on through.

When I caught up to Lt Dan and Sonny, they were stopped so I didn't really catch up. I told them and we laughed but they told me about their experience there.

They were riding almost side by side with Lt Dan on the left and Sonny on the right with Lt Dan a little ahead. Dan said he caught air over the rise and hit the sand pretty hard. Sonny was right behind and said that the sand flew up in the air just like water (at least 8 feet in the air) and covered him like a wave. Of course he couldn't see but went on through fine. Boy it would be nice to have a helmet cam.

We had lunch at the Rio Grande village and blasted, quite literally, back to break camp and head east so we could hit some of the hill country tomorrow on our way to Austin.

Part of the Chisos Basin

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343131-M.jpg

On the road after leaving the park.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343133-M.jpg

We rode on till after dark with Sonny in the lead and saw him hit his blinker. Once we got to the spot we knew why. Stinkin' Deer. :uhoh

The blinker seemed to go back and forth many times. No telling how many we saw but I bet there 2 we didn't see for every 1 we saw.

It was time to get off the bikes. We stopped in Sanderson, TX for the night.

The shower felt great that night after eating all that dust. A bed was nice too. :snore

We rode about 80, BMW, miles on the gravel, sand, etc in the park and about 293, BMW, miles for the day. It was a Grande Day.

Kev95GS
02-01-2006, 08:54 AM
Big Bend was a great place and should be a destination of its own. We could have spent at least 2-3 more days and explored a lot more of it, Chisos Basin and many other places. It would be worth it for me just to experience the SILENCE at night again.

so... onward...

Day 11, Lunes, 16 Enero.

Lt Dan & I were up with the Sun and went to get Sonny (he camped down the road instead of crashing on the floor, he's a true adventurer). He wasn't ready so we went and got some breakfast while he packed up.

Back on the road and we head southeast on TX 90 to Del Rio on to Bracketville and then Hwy 334 to north on 55 to Camp Wood. Along the way we stopped here. The water was so clear it was unbelievable.

I pretty sure it was on Hwy 55 just before Camp Wood.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343137-M.jpg

The other direction

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54738530-M.jpg

At Camp Wood we hit Texas Ranch Rd 337. Man what a road. You must ride this road if you are within 500...1000 miles... heck just make it a destination and ride it many times! :brow :clap :brad

Sorry no pictures on this road. I had my mind on other things. :bliss :rocker :thumb Many curves up and through the Hill Country.

We stopped at Frio Canyon in Leakey, TX. Nice place that caters to riders in the area.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343140-M.jpg

Back on 337 and it is better than the last part we were on. :twirl :dance :thumb YEE HAAAAA!!!! RIDE THIS ROAD!!!!

We hit Hwy 16 and head to Kerrville for lunch and a couple of Sonny's friends came over from Austin to meet us for the ride in. Jordan and Larry.

It had been overcast and mostly windy most of the day but it got worse in Kerrville. There was a front coming in and the wind was blowing us all over the road. It was still good though.

We stopped off in Luckenbach.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343141-M.jpg

Left to right. Sonny, me, Jordan and Larry.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54344281-M.jpg

Off we went to Austin. Jordan was on a ST1300 and Larry on a 1800 Gold Wing. Those guys couuld ride! It stayed very windy all the way into Austin but we only had a few sprinkles on the way.

We had no rain on this trip except for this little bit. It sure looked like we were going to get dumped on though on this day.

We when got to Sonny's house we had to do a little maintenance on the bikes. Lt Dan had bent his rim and broken the steel belts in his tire in Big Bend but we had come all the way with no problems. Just made sure to check it every so often. I had a loose wire on my tail light, no biggy.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343144-M.jpg

We ate at Rudy's in Austin and had some great brisket and a great hand washer. Check it out if your in the area. We need one of these places in Nashville.

Lt Dan, Stacy, Sonny and the Rudy's gang.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343148-M.jpg

We went to bed with a full belly, clean hands and knowing we would hit the road for home in the morning.

We rode 436, BMW, miles today and it was a WOO HOO, Hill Country, Day!

Kev95GS
02-01-2006, 09:06 AM
Day 12, Martes, 17 Enero

We needed a tool to get the front tire off the Hex head so we had to go to the Honda shop, Jordan works there and Sonny has and buy a tire and put it on. What great guys.

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343152-M.jpg

Got it changed and off we go after all our goodbyes.

We took I-35 out of Austin to Waco and took Hwy 31 to Tyler.

Can you say...."Windy"?

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54343042-M.jpg

Pretty much an uneventful day and we stopped around 7 pm in Lonoke, AR. We talked to the families back home and it was snowing, pretty good too.

We rode about 545, BMW, miles and it was The Last Night.

Kev95GS
02-01-2006, 09:12 AM
Day 13, Miercoles, 18 Enero.

We head out about 7 am and head for home. No pictures but once we hit Memphis there was still a lot of snow in the shadows on the side of the road. We passed a guy in a Chevy pickup and he cheered us on toward the finish line. Window down and thumbs up as we go by. Thanks Dude!

We got home around 1:30 pm. Good to be home.

Here was my welcoming committee. (a re-inactment :brow ) :dance


My girls, Olivia (left), Lauren and La Chica Vieja!

http://kev95gs.smugmug.com/photos/54737444-M.jpg.

We rode 354, BMW, miles and we were HOME!

Kev95GS
02-01-2006, 09:30 AM
A few thoughts on the trip.

Almost everyone we tell about the trip asks, "Are you crazy?" "Weren't you worried about banditos?"

The answer is always the same. "We never felt treated at any point in the whole trip. Everyone we met was hospitable, freindly and gracious." "Everywhere we went we saw people smiling, happy and content" "Are we crazy? Maybe but not becuase we went to Mexico.?"

I am sure that there are dangerous places in Mexico and my thoughts are that they are mostly around border towns, large cities and tourist areas. Or if you happen to stumble on someones "patch". :brow You'd have to be in a lot more remote places than we went though.

Mexico is a very, very nice place and the folks there seems to appreciate those that come and try to be part of whats going on and try to communicate.

It's also seems that there is a lot of progress going on either in the large cities and in the out lying areas. As I said there is talk of paving the road to Batopilas.

Border crossings went exceptionally smooth on both counts. I don't know whether it is normal or not, but we never had a hiccup.

Mexico had a lot to offer as far as roads go too. You could have a twisty, curvey adventure, a gravel and single track adventure... Make your own road.

Another thing that Lt Dan brought up was the fact that during the whole 13 days of the trip we saw no one traveling like us. No motorcycles packed down, not even in the warmer climates. We did see some bikes around Chihuahua but they weren't traveling, they were Sunday riders. Where was everybody? Get on the road!

If you have every considered going to Mexico my advice is to DO IT!
Take a little time to research it and decide what you want out of your trip. There are plenty of sites on line that can give you all the info you need and more!

Thanks for going along and letting me share our experience.

By the way, I have tried to get Lt Dan and Himmy to log on and let everyone know their side of the story (and make sure I didn't embelish anything), but so far I have been unsuccessful.


Thanks again!

Kevin

:bikes

goferu
02-02-2006, 03:33 PM
Wonderful pics and good commentary....

Kev95GS
02-03-2006, 09:16 PM
Wonderful pics and good commentary....


Thanks man!

I'm sure I went too far!

Kevin

:bikes

Letsbike
02-04-2006, 07:40 AM
Kev,your ride sounds fabulous! Will you let a girl go with you next time?!
P.S.---that Dan guy looks hot!!!

Kev95GS
02-04-2006, 09:01 AM
Kev,your ride sounds fabulous! Will you let a girl go with you next time?!
P.S.---that Dan guy looks hot!!!

I don't think I can keep up with you! But we could give it a try.

and as for Lt Dan, looks can be deceiving. :rofl :laugh

mistercindy
02-07-2006, 09:55 PM
Great thread!

Lgarp77
02-10-2006, 09:41 AM
I sure wish I could have gone with you guys, this thread almost made me feel like I did. Great shots and words. I sure hope Dan doesn't see Letsbike's post though, his helmet is already too tight now! Just kidding, Dan. Hope to ride with you soon. G.L.

kbasa
02-10-2006, 10:44 AM
Best trip report here in a long time, if not ever.

:thumb

Thanks for taking us along, Kev.

Kev95GS
02-10-2006, 11:09 AM
I sure wish I could have gone with you guys, this thread almost made me feel like I did. Great shots and words. I sure hope Dan doesn't see Letsbike's post though, his helmet is already too tight now! Just kidding, Dan. Hope to ride with you soon. G.L.

Hey Gary,
I wish you could have gone too. There's always next time! :dance

If you would have gone we would have had 4 generations of GS's on the ride!

Cya

Kevin

Kev95GS
02-10-2006, 11:16 AM
Best trip report here in a long time, if not ever.

:thumb

Thanks for taking us along, Kev.

Blushing... I don't know about that... :dunno

but I got a lot out of it for sure. It was nice to recollect and relive.

Thanks

Kevin

BubbaZanetti
02-10-2006, 11:36 AM
its threads like this that make me realize how important picture taking is, i never take enough.......

awsome report man!

Kev95GS
02-10-2006, 01:05 PM
its threads like this that make me realize how important picture taking is, i never take enough.......

awsome report man!

Thanks. Everybody usually rags me about taking a bunch of photos but it helps me remember the trip.

I just put em a folder on my computer and go look at em every now and then. :thumb

BeerTeam
04-03-2010, 06:38 AM
A great trip :thumb