lowering k75 height options

[dg123]

does anyone have any ideas for lowering the riding height of a 1994 low seat model k75. it is too tall for me (i'm 5'7".) when i bought the bike (used) it had been converted to a high seat model. i had it reconverted back to the low model with a low corbin seat. the low corbin seat was still to high. i talked to the local bmw dealer about ways to lower the seat/riding height. he said putting on shorter shocks might work. he also said to look at bmw forums for discussions about others who might have wrestled with the problem. so here i am. i don't want to have to sell the bike because it is too tall. can anyone help? thanks.

[kbasa]

You can put lower profile tires on the bike and pick up about another inch. You can also put a shorter shock on the back and raise the forks in the triple clamps to get some more. I think Works sells a shorter shock for that bike.

The biggest problem with the K75 for less tall folks is the width of the frame. It'll splay your legs out pretty well. If you have muscular thighs, it's even worse.

[bmdubyou]

I agree...beemers are about the tallest thing on 2 wheels. I saw in a JCW magazine they had lowering bracket things for some Jap bikes...but did I see in the Anon book an ad for shorter shocks?

[Eric1514]

See if you can find a bike with the factory low seat that you can sit on. Corbin saddles run wide and like Dave said, your legs get splayed out. The factory saddle might be narrower.

If that works for you, you might find the parts you need at:

http://www.ibmwr.org/market/

I'm 5'6" with a 30" inseam and I can put both feet down flat on my K75.

Good Luck,Eric

PS-Eventually I will get a Works shorter shock and lower the forks in the triple clamp so I can use the standard height Corbin saddle I have which I find more comfortable and attractive.

[CustomSarge]

I've heard of having an upholsterer narrow the seat nose for inseam clearance.
As for shock length, the first limit/tradeoff you hit is the rear tire to inner fender clearance. The shorter the shock, the stiffer it must be for equal load capacity.

My K11LT has a stock K75 rear shock ~1.5" shorter, with the tubes 1.25" up in the clamps. Around town it's fine, but loaded for tour, it can bottom out on severe dips. Probably due to stock spring tension.

I've got a K75 setup to see how short I Could make one, without being irreversable. The tubes are 4"(!) up in the triple clamps, with Really small tires & a 2.5" shorter shock. I had to use 30wt in the forks! It feels like a minibike, but impractical to leave that way.

Between seat & shock, you should be able to get a workable height. Good Hunting... <<<)))

[wndsrfr]

I just lowered mine--'92 K75RT using a Progressive rear shock that is 3/4" shorter than stock and sliding the front fork tubes up in the triple clamps. The work was a piece of cake to accomplish and the bike is so much more responsive now I can hardly believe that it's the same bike. I got the shock from Forever Endeavor Cycles in St. Louis--their website is www.abcbmw.com and I'm extremely happy with their service and responsiveness. I'm advocating doing this first before seat mods since the payback in handling is so good that it's worth it based on that alone. Then if you need seat mods, go for it on that basis.

[Eric1514]

When you put a shorter shock on the rear and lower the clamps up front, does that change anything with regards to the center stand?

TIA,
Eric

[wndsrfr]

Yes......it definitely makes it harder to get up on the center stand.....takes a good one,.. two,... Pull & Stomp on three to get it up there when on a hard surface. Still quite easy on soft surface. I expect that I'll modify mine during those cold weeks this winter to get it back to "normal"......it'll require some judicious cut/weld to get it right--anyone with experience here??

[deilenberger]

Yes......it definitely makes it harder to get up on the center stand.....takes a good one,.. two,... Pull & Stomp on three to get it up there when on a hard surface. Still quite easy on soft surface. I expect that I'll modify mine during those cold weeks this winter to get it back to "normal"......it'll require some judicious cut/weld to get it right--anyone with experience here??Unless you have the later K11 straight leg stand - you really can't cut/weld - think about where the legs will end up when it's in the up position.

What to do?

Don't use the centerstand except in the garage. For gas fillups - your shortened bike is almost upright due to the stock sidestand and shorter suspension - it's not an issue. When parked - the bike is MOST stable on a side-stand (bigger triangle footprint.)

In the garage - make a ramp from two pieces of 3/4" plywood. Make one longer than the other. Pull in the garage, put bike on sidestand, put ramp in front of wheel, take off sidestand and drive up the little ramp, put on sidestand, then centerstand and just kick the ramp out. It takes LOTS less time to actually do this then to read how to do it.

The ramp should work to make the bike about as easy as getting up on the centerstand with a stock suspension. It also helps keep from overstressing the centerstand - which can lead to it breaking.

I've been doing this for about 10 years now.. it's just second nature once you're used to it.

Best,

[Eric1514]

How can you tell if the forks on your bike are at stock height? Is there a reference mark somewhere?

TIA,
Eric

[CustomSarge]

Stock length is when the tops of the tubes Just clear the upper triple clamp.

As for cut/weld: I've done it 5 times, resizing both side & center stands. I liked the results, but Don is right, it isn't for everybody. The new up positions are something to be tolerated or dealt with by Really changing the stands and/or exhaust system. I figure on doing it at least twice; what I think will work, then making That work. Also, keep an eye out for a stock spare.

I Really like the shortened bikes' feel & handling. Lower CoG, foot traction & tighter steering response are powerful incentives to the Dark Side. I say Go Boldly, dang little is irreversable, but I sponsor crazy.

like what you ride / ride what you like... <<<)))

[johnnyquest]

does anyone have any ideas for lowering the riding height of a 1994 low seat model k75. it is too tall for me (i'm 5'7".) when i bought the bike (used) it had been converted to a high seat model. i had it reconverted back to the low model with a low corbin seat. the low corbin seat was still to high. i talked to the local bmw dealer about ways to lower the seat/riding height. he said putting on shorter shocks might work. he also said to look at bmw forums for discussions about others who might have wrestled with the problem. so here i am. i don't want to have to sell the bike because it is too tall. can anyone help? thanks.

One other thing that no one's mentioned: When you lower the bike you will sacrifice lean angle.....you won't be able to lean over as far which could affect corning ability. Whether or not this will be a problem depends on your riding style.

JQ

[wndsrfr]

Don's suggestion for making use of the centerstand easier got me to experimenting, and with three pieces of 3/4" plywood I've found the solution! I cut two pieces about 2'x2'--one for the front wheel, one for the rear and placed them on the garage floor where the wheels always end up planted with a gap in the center.....you're probably already following me by now. The third smaller piece 1'x2' is placed along the left side to take the sidestand. What a piece of cake it is now to place it on the centerstand which rests on the garage floor, 3/4" lower than the wheels--thanks for the idea, Don & I think my solution is easier than dealing with a ramp... :clap

[deilenberger]

thanks for the idea, Don & I think my solution is easier than dealing with a ramp... :clap

No problem - I still think mine was easier - I had the two pieces of plywood the right size laying around. It's only been about 10 years now I've been using these, and I keep MEANING to screw the damn things together, but I haven't gotten aroundtoit.. somehow riding keeps getting in the way :laugh