Where to tap into lights?

[pmdave]

I'm in the process of adding some driving lights to my '03 R1150GS Sport. I'm using a relay, so all I need is to tap into the high beam circuit somewhere. The trigger circuit would only be active when the high beam is on, powering the relay coil through a switch. That way, the driving lights would only come on if the switch was on and the high beam selected.

So, where's the best place to tap into the high beam circuit? As a last resort I could tap into the wire near the bulb connection, but I'd rather tie in closer to the source.

Note that I'll be off to the RA rally for the rest of the week, home next week, so there is no hurry for a response.

pmdave

[knary]

Curious: why are you wiring them with the high beam rather than putting them on a switch?

[kbasa]

On mine, I have a switch that operates the relay to turn the lights on. I took power from the accessory outlet on my R12GS, which is switched. If I was on an 1150, I'd probably pull the relay's power from the pilot light, which is switched.

I suppose the advantage of having them wired to the high beam is that they just go on when you turn on your high beams. Different strokes, right?

[Xaque]

I suppose the advantage of having them wired to the high beam is that they just go on when you turn on your high beams. Different strokes, right?

This is my next project for my r1150r.

My plan is to have a master switch, but the relay would alow me to easily dim both my high-beam and running lights when I encounter an oncoming vehicle without having to fumble around with two switches.

-Xaque-

[knary]

On mine, I have a switch that operates the relay to turn the lights on. I took power from the accessory outlet on my R12GS, which is switched. If I was on an 1150, I'd probably pull the relay's power from the pilot light, which is switched.

I suppose the advantage of having them wired to the high beam is that they just go on when you turn on your high beams. Different strokes, right?

I hooked into the pilot light for the driving lights on my bike. As for why I didn't tap into the high beam circuit, I wanted to be able to leave the high beam on. This gives me some choices about how much light I want pointed down the road. There are times when the high beam isn't too much, but the driving lights are (e.g. wide interstate with oncoming traffic but no one heading my direction).

[PacWestGS]

I like mine (Amber) independant and tagged into a switched power line. I use them day and night for both my visiblity and to be seen by others.

IMHO, if you only use them at night and switch highbeam and driving lights off together, it will get pretty DARK in front of you waiting for your brain to catch up. I like to drop the highbeams and if the car coming at me has a problem, drop the fog/driving lights until passes are complete.

[lorazepam]

My driving lights are on a spdt (single pole double throw) switch. switch in the middle is off, switch up, they come on with the high beams only. switch down, they are on all the time. Makes it nice to have them on all the time during the day, and switchable at night.

[knary]

My driving lights are on a spdt (single pole double throw) switch. switch in the middle is off, switch up, they come on with the high beams only. switch down, they are on all the time. Makes it nice to have them on all the time during the day, and switchable at night.


oooo....aaahhh....

Now that sounds like the best option yet. :nod

[PacWestGS]

Clarification: Are we talking about, over 55-watt halogen lights, cause if we're not I just aim them low enough not to be pissin' people off and leave them on. :dunno

That is why I like a combination Fog/Driving beam.

Christmas is going to be Z-Technics Xenon lights :clap :clap they will probably be set up like Loraze's :thumb

[BradfordBenn]

I connected mine to the battery with Manic Mechanic's help. Then there is a switch for turning them on and off. Works for me.

[109949]

On my R1150R, I tapped the relay trigger voltage off the marker light inside the headlight. This light is fused to 4 amps and is switched via the ignition switch.. The current draw of the relay is minmal so you shouldn't blow the fuse unless something is wrong. I also installed a switch in that circuit to turnthe lights on or off. There are some pretty nice water tight handlebar switches on the market. I have a black one that blends nicely with the bike. If you trigger your driving lights off your highbeams, you can only have them on when you have your high beams on. With a switch, you can point your driving lights wherever you suit but can have them on with your low beams as well. I find that I use this in traffic where I want the driving lights on and don't want to blind oncoming traffic with my main high beam. During the day, the driving lights remain off. Good Luck.

[Hodag]

My driving lights....

all ten of them?

[j-budimlya]

I'm in the process of adding some driving lights to my '03 R1150GS Sport. I'm using a relay, so all I need is to tap into the high beam circuit somewhere. The trigger circuit would only be active when the high beam is on, powering the relay coil through a switch. That way, the driving lights would only come on if the switch was on and the high beam selected.

So, where's the best place to tap into the high beam circuit? As a last resort I could tap into the wire near the bulb connection, but I'd rather tie in closer to the source.

Note that I'll be off to the RA rally for the rest of the week, home next week, so there is no hurry for a response.

pmdave

It's pretty easy to get to, and you can do it without cutting the wire, jsut carefully remove a section of the insulation and solder a light guage signal wire to the power wire, then seal it very well with moisture proof coating and tape it on top....then you get the benefit of having the new bright lights automatically turned off when you need to start or restart the bike....big plus to not have to fiddle with a switch in the moment....and of course, you can still install a switch on this signal with to provide an additional option....

[manicmechanic]

Ah, Benn, just remember that we connected the lights to the battery, the coil operating voltage came from the tail light circuit. Just trying to be accurate. If we'd wanted to, and had the time, we could've tapped in to the high beam for the trigger, then they'd only be available on high beam.

Marvelous job on that "other" site, too!

[PacWestGS]

Well at least you didn't tap into the 'Brake-Light', then the Aux lights would only come on during braking. :dance

Sorry couldn't resist... :laugh

[manicmechanic]

We could very well have done that, considering it was "the morning after the night before" at Loraz's Solstice event. And the events of that night are still a bit fuzzy....

[pmdave]

Thanks for the input.

As some have already noted, the purpose in tapping into the high beam circuit is so the aux lights are only available when the high beam is selected. The aux lights are on a switch.

Having the aux lights relay triggered through the lights circuits means someone can't come along and turn on your aux lights with the key off, and the lights go out when the starter is engaged--just like the other lights.

Aux lights generally don't have focused lenses or beam height masking, and they can too easily be pointed in other driver's eyes. That's my main consideration in triggering from the high beam circuit. When you switch to low beam for oncoming traffic you're almost blind anyway, and when you flick back to high, the added lights would come on.

However, I like the idea of being able to select whether the aux lights signal comes from the high or low beam. Simple= use a double throw switch, one side to yellow, one side to white. That way, I can switch the aux lights to the low beam circuit if I want, and leave them on all the time.

And, while I'm messing around with the wiring, why not insert a switch into the system to turn off the low beam for situations where I don't want the headlight on?

Yes, I know I could simply peel back a little insulation and solder in a wire close to the headlight, but I was hoping to find some less conspicuous place to tap in. One suggestion from a rally rat was to prod around at the other end of the handlebar switch wire, where there is reputed to be a plug-in connection (in that maze under the tank) It appears that the bundle from the left switch pod disappears into the main wiring harness. Where does it go?

pmdave

[PUDGYPAINTGUY]

I placed the auxilliary lights on a seperate switch feeding from a power circuit but with a second hidden micro switch that powers all accessories to prevent someone tampering and leaving stuff on. This power goes to Chatterbox, GPS, fog lights and side case 110v supply along with XM too.

The micro switch has a tiny light in it so that I know to do a visual check before leaving the bike. Just a thought.

[lorazepam]

sorry dave, when I said on all the time, I meant when the key was on. I think mine is wired the same way, and the switch in the center position is off all the time.
I also have a set of motolights mounted to the calipers, and keep them on all the time. I dont want anyone using the excuse they didnt see me coming.

I found a pair of 8 red flashing led modules that I have attached to the rear brake bulb, along with an led tail/brake light bar.

I added a fiamm 130db horn to replace the bosch "little honker" that came on the bike.

I leave the bags on my bike, and they have reflective material on the rear of each.

I like to see and be seen.

The flashing led's are just below the screws on the bar, on the wide areas.
http://lorazepam.smugmug.com/photos/3899714-M.jpg

Front view in the daytime. I have since relocated the motolights to the calipers. The fork mounts were from a former bike and didnt work well.
http://lorazepam.smugmug.com/photos/11917138-M.jpg

[PUDGYPAINTGUY]

Great looking bike, thanks for the pics...as for the lights you have them linked to the ignition power then lorezpam?

[knary]

If you tap into any of the 'regular' lights (headlights or parking light) to power the relay, you can't just turn on the light unless you've got the key in the on position. For the power for the lights themselves, it's easy to just run a line to the battery.

[lorazepam]

what knary said. The power that runs the actual lights runs off the battery. The high beam and the parking light are the power for the relay that turns them on. I would draw a simple circuit for you but I dont have a program to do that.

[lorazepam]

Oh by the way dave, I would personally wire the switch through the socket area like you mentioned. The thought of wading through the harnesses to find the right plug is more than I would care to do. Nicking a wire getting it apart, and making it all fit properly is my nightmare.
I did the same thing to the led lights (attached to the bulb socket) to keep the resistance down and not mess with the brake/ tail light bulb sensor.

[Xaque]

I'm wicked bored at work... so here is a simple diagram for the SPDT switch thrown into the works... I'm working on my "master plan" so y'all can get a flavor for that....

http://static.flickr.com/24/51937436_cf992b001b.jpg

Note: That "stock head lamp" would be switched at the handlebars... and one would also relay a seperate power lead for the aux lights... but y'all get the idea. ;)


-Xaque-

[Xaque]

Mmmmm..... happiness is a well wired lighting setup.... mmmmmmmm.......

http://static.flickr.com/30/51948246_d4d1361c4f.jpg

-Xaque-

[lorazepam]

The only thing I would change would be to have the right leg of the spdt switches connected to a power source going off with the key. forget to turn them off, and you come out to a dead battery.

[Xaque]

The only thing I would change would be to have the right leg of the spdt switches connected to a power source going off with the key. forget to turn them off, and you come out to a dead battery.

Yeah... to keep the diagram simple I labeled the Batt "switched power" instead of showing another relay setup for supplying a direct batt lead controlled through the parking light (or similar switched circuit).

Sorry it's so small. I put it together in Paint... and that's the only size I can get it to upload to the web as...


-Xaque-

[lorazepam]

looks good, and it shows what can be done to make the lights work any way you like.

[manicmechanic]

Just picking on you, Loraz, but have you considered getting those new cables yet?

[pmdave]

Update on the GS wiring:

I looked carefully at the low beam circuit, and the only logical place to do anything is at the loom to the bulb socket. I cut the white/yellow wire, spliced in some wire to both ends, and installed a switch to turn the low beam off if needed.

I tapped into the high beam wire (white) near the plug on the upper left, and extended a wire to a switch and back to the aux relay. This provides a trigger for the aux lights relay. With the aux lights switch on, turning on the high beam activates the aux lights.

I decided to not install an additional switch to select hi or low beam as the trigger for the aux lights, but that can be done easily at a later date, since the switches are in the same location--mounted on the left side of the "fairing".

I also added two LOUD horns (Fiamm style) under the sides of the "beak".

The aux lights are powered by one relay, the horns by one relay each. The relays are powered from the battery via a fuse panel secured to the top of the air cleaner housing.

The fuse panel has six fuses, one for external power, including two parallel connectors, one molex, one SAE style, to accept a battery charger or supply vest, GPS, etc.

I previously added an LED tail light with a decaying flash pattern on the brake side, and aux LED lights to the back of the panniers. I really like LEDs, for a variety of reasons.

The relays I used are (believe it or not) from Wallmart. They have a kit with a relay, switch, yards of wire, etc. for $20 or less, and the relays are 30A capacity and wired with connector plugs. The horns were from an auto store. The LED tail light was from the BMW dealer.

Thanks for all the advice and ideas.

pmdave

[BradfordBenn]

Sounds like you have your self lots of flexibility and some nice safe additions with the horns.

[lorazepam]

Just picking on you, Loraz, but have you considered getting those new cables yet?

Ordered 'em, just have to go get them at the dealer.