planning a trip 2 Nova Scotia> Niagra Falls

[bmwrider88]

Howdy folks,

This summer i am planning a round trip from my home in Central PA up to Southern Vermont, into Maine (Brunswick area), out to Nova Scotia, and across Canada to Niagra Falls, then back home.

I have house hook-ups in both VT AND ME, so no need for places to stay between Central PA and Grafton VT, or between Grafton VT and Brunswick ME, tho suggestions for food along the way, in New York State and VT/NH/ME are welcome.

**We are on road bikes NOT Dual Sport, so hard surfaces are gonna be the rule for us.

**This is also a leisure run, we'll have the women-folk along.

**We are looking for B&Bs and Mom & Pop motels, and decent places for food, coffee, etc.

The main criteria is to avoid freeways, major motorways, interstates, or turnpikes!

US/Canadian hiways and State/local roads with the possibility of a short jaunt on the occasional major motorway to connect routes remaining open.

What i DON'T know is what's happening between Round Pond, ME and Niagra Falls, other than we want to get out onto NS, and stay in Canada between, say, Halifax and Niagra Falls.

we'll almost certainly take US 1 > Can 1 up to St John out of Round Pond
UNLESS there are ferries from ME to NS.

From what i can glean off the 'net, ferries no longer run between Maine and Nova Scotia? Is this TRUE or FALSE? This could make a big difference in our route planing and timing allotments.

Any and all information & suggestions are welcome in planning this adventure.

POIs, restaurants, B&Bs, Mom & Pop motels & restaurants, home cooking, even cocktails, ales, and breakfast/coffee stops, gasoline stops, whatever.

Thanks!

[martinPH]

Bob Weber will respond as soon as he sees your post.

From what i can glean off the 'net, ferries no longer run between Maine and Nova Scotia? Is this TRUE or FALSE? This could make a big difference in our route planing and timing allotments.
Yes this is true

[BMW Triumphant]

Hwy 401 is the freeway you will need to use from Montreal to Kingston. There just are no other viable routes.

Once at Kingston, you can head south and take a very scenic route with a free ferry thrown in, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ontario_Highway_33. At the western end, you could return to the 401, but I like to follow Hwy 2 along the shore of Lake Ontario from Trenton to just East of Port Hope. Then, it's back to 401 for the crossing of Toronto, until you take the 427 South and then follow the QEW ( Queen Elizabeth Way) to Niagara Falls.

The Niagara area is wine country. See http://wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com/ for a few ideas and a map. There is a road parallel to the QEW to the west, nestled under the Niagra Escarpment that is pleasant and will get you near a whole bunch of wineries.

If I'm around when you are due to arrive in Toronto, I might even be able to show you the route.

There is a Niagra region chartered club you could contact as well. Should have mentioned the Quinte chartered club west of Kingston as well.

Great ride, but you will likely do freeways a fair amount in Canada.

[bmwrider88]

Hwy 401 is the freeway you will need to use from Montreal to Kingston. There just are no other viable routes.

Once at Kingston, you can head south and take a very scenic route with a free ferry thrown in, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ontario_Highway_33. At the western end, you could return to the 401, but I like to follow Hwy 2 along the shore of Lake Ontario from Trenton to just East of Port Hope. Then, it's back to 401 for the crossing of Toronto, until you take the 427 South and then follow the QEW ( Queen Elizabeth Way) to Niagara Falls.

The Niagara area is wine country. See http://wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com/ for a few ideas and a map. There is a road parallel to the QEW to the west, nestled under the Niagra Escarpment that is pleasant and will get you near a whole bunch of wineries.

If I'm around when you are due to arrive in Toronto, I might even be able to show you the route.

There is a Niagra region chartered club you could contact as well. Should have mentioned the Quinte chartered club west of Kingston as well.

Great ride, but you will likely do freeways a fair amount in Canada.

Thanks! I'll take a look at the routes and links you posted. Since this is in the VERY early stages, not certain yet of just when we'll be in the area but i'll let you know when we get the dates nailed down. if we could hook up, that'd be nice, i'll buy you a coffee or beverage of choice.

Cheers!

Tom

[bmwrider88]

Just a thought- i know we'll be in French-speaking areas, through Ontario, but not so certain about Nova Scotia. I have a French Phrasebook i plan to bring, but have no real skills in French.

Any tips about the use of -or expectancy of the use of- French, would be appreciated.

[BMW Triumphant]

I have never found a problem with needing French in Quebec. Could happen in very rural areas, but unlikely. Very friendly and tourist aware.

[walterK75]

Include a trip around the Cabot Trail in Novia Scotia.

[Paul_F]

Howdy folks,
This summer i am planning a round trip from my home in Central PA up to Southern Vermont, into Maine (Brunswick area), out to Nova Scotia, and across Canada to Niagara Falls, then back home.

Canadian universities and colleges offer residence accommodations during the summer months. Check out http://www.aucc.ca/canadian-universities/our-universities to find colleges/universities along your route. Once you have zeroed in on a campus, look for the Tourist/travellers information. I often pay between $30-$40, depending if breakfast is served. Lots of good two lane roads through New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. If you follow the Gaspe Pennisula, you will most likely be taking Hwy 132. If this is the case, take the three hour ferry from Matane to Baie-Comeau on the north shore of the St. Lawrence. It is a more scenic ride. Do stop and stay in Old Quebec City. No that will not be inexpensive, but worth the visit to stay in a European city. In Ontario, yes you will most likely have to take the 401 unless you detour north to scenic back roads and then head due south to Niagara Falls. When in the Toronto area, pay the exorbitant toll fee for the 407. That way you will live to see another day. The 401 around Toronto is the most heavily travelled road in North America. LA freeways were a Sunday afternoon ride compared to our Toronto 401. Allow yourself lots of time to really enjoy the ride. Don't forget to ride the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island when in Nova Scotia. You will overwhelmed by just how friendly our neighbours on the east coast are.

[Newstar]

Not sure if this is in your travels or not but I recommend Northern Outdoors in The Forks, ME.

We stayed here in a very nice cabin for less than we'd pay at a good Holiday Inn. Although listed as a "resort", it's not as plush as you would expect a resort to be. It's clean and comfy and the brew pub onsite is reasonably priced and excellent!

Northern Outdoors (http://www.northernoutdoors.com/site/resort/the-forks-resort-center.html)

For what it's worth, I'll take the north woods area of Maine over the coast any day!

[32232]

The main criteria is to avoid freeways, major motorways, interstates, or turnpikes!
Thanks!

Eastern Ontario is lovely country and you'll really enjoy it if you stay off the 400 series.

There's really no alternative entering Ontario from the east except 401. (FYI, Ontario highways in the 400 series are all multi-lane, limited access.) If two lanes are your preference, at Brockville (lovely town) take 29 to Smith's Falls, (headquarters for the Rideau Canal, a UNESCO world heritage site). http://www.rideau-info.com/
Then east on Highway 7 to Peterborough, headquarters for the Trent-Severn Waterway. The Rideau and the Trent are both national historic sites. In Peterborough you'll find the Peterborough Lift Lock, one of the seven engineering wonders of the world. The amazing part is it's over a hundred years old. Take the short boat cruise that goes through the lock; you'll never see anything like it again. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peterborough_Lift_Lock

East on Highway 7 and if time allows you can jog north on Highway 12 and take Highway 9 through the countryside and drop south on #10 through Orangeville. That will take you around the worst of Toronto.

If you want to stay off major highways, avoid 401 and Toronto like the plague. A survey I read last summer said traffic is worse than any other city in North America, including LA or Chicago. I pass through T.O. a couple times a year and regret it every time.

If you're in a hurry and must traverse the city, as mentioned above, take 407 (toll road) east and connect to the QEW (Queen Elizabeth Way) to Niagara. The 401 in the city risks gridlock on a fourteen lane expressway. The QEW will be a zoo regardless. If you like big cities the alternative is to head downtown, park the bike and enjoy for a day or two.

Once you reach Hamilton, Highway 20 is a much nicer ride east through the Niagara wine country than the QEW and it brings you straight into Niagara Falls by the "back door".

When you get to Niagara Falls, ride north on the Niagara Parkway to Niagara-on-the-Lake. Quaint tourist town with good restaurants, upscale hotels and shopping for the ladies.

[hondarider]

If you're headed to southern VT, I can recommend a scenic twisty 2 lane route through the Berkshires of Western Mass...over Mount Greylock...and delivering you into Bennington or Wilmington depending on your destination. Northwest CT is nice if you're making your way up from PA. Let me know if you're interested...I'll send you a map of my favorite route from CT to VT.

[AKsuited]

You might consider SR 2 from Troy, NY across to SR 2 in Massachusetts, and taking that route across Mass. It's a little less mountainous than Vermont. It's my route of choice to Maine.

Bar Harbor is one of my favorite spots. There's a good KOA and a mix of motels from very expensive to very reasonable.

Harry

[Quanto12]

If the ferry is still closed from Bar Harbor to Yarmouth N.S., the ride on Route 1 to Calais Maine is great! Right before Calais you could cross the border to Campobello Island to visit The Franklin Roosevelt cottage(summer home). Then take the two short ferries to Deer Island and main land New Brunswick, Canada. Then you would have to take the highway to Saint John to take the ferry to Digby, N.S.
Once there, you could follow the coast south to Yarmouth and keep going around towards Halifax through Lunenburgh and Peggy's Cove. Nova Scotia is great where ever you go, but like someone mention, Cape Breton is worth the ride. The two tourist attraction I suggest for that area is of course "The Cabot Trail" in the "Cape Breton Highland National Park" , and " Fort Louisbourgh" near Sydney. Coming from Cape Breton, head for Pictou to take the ferry to Wood Island P.E.I. Like "martinph" said, Bob Webber will give all you need for NS,
There, head for Charlottetown and then follow the east coast to Cavendish to see the beach. Then go towards Borden to cross the Confederation Bridge back to New Brunswick.
Here take route 15 towards Cap-Pele and stop for the best fried clams and scallops you'll ever taste, at the "Bel Air" restaurant or the "Aboiteau" restaurant. In Shediac, you have the warmest waters in the Northumberland Strait, at Parlee Beach. If you follow the east coast on rte 134( and take rte 636, 475 and 117, for scenery) and rte 11, you can't go wrong! Half an hour pass Shediac, you would be going by my place, and if I'm around at this point, I'd be more than happy to show you around and a place to stay. Here we have the "Kouchibouguac National Park" with the best sand dunes around. Depending how much time you have I could suggest more for New Brunswick, like Fundy National Park, Hopewell Rocks with it's highest tides in the world, Magnetic Hill, following the Saint-John river and more!
Once in Quebec I would follow Paul F's suggestion and take the ferry to Baie-Comeau, from Matane, much better scenery on that side.

As for the french thing in the Maratime provinces (NS, NB, PEI, and NFL) don't worry, all us frenchmen are biilingual, and be more than happy to help you out. And if you find somebody that can't speak english, you'll have a blast listening to him or her trying!!!lol
I mostly camp when I travel so I'm not that familiar with B&B. If you do camp, You can't go wrong with Canadian National Parks and campgrounds in the maritimes. If you want coffee, well guess what we have, Tim Horton's, in pretty much every town you'll go through.

Hope this helps a bit!

Art.

[gsjay]

Are both Ferries, from Portland & Bar Harbor out of business?

If they are this surely has had to have a negative impact on tourism there.

We took the CAT several years back, after having a crossing on the Portland Ferry cancelled just weeks before our trip. It was a real cluster! 14 members of our local club, all scurring around at the last minute rebooking......

Enjoyed Nova Scotia every much, will hope to get back there soon.

Jason

[bmwrider88]

Thanks everyone,

There's a lot to digest there. Fortunately, my big Atlas has detailed maps of Canada, and my GPS also has lifetime Canadian Maps. The info on the "400" series roads being akin to our US Interstate system is great info, as they don't "look" that big on the maps :brow . Looks like i may get a lesson in route planning for my GPS!

I have to figure a time-line across Canada to Niagra. Google Maps suggests that, in a bee-line, it's "one day, 10 hours" (Halifax to Niagra) so it appears that maybe three-four days could include some nice scenic riding and a stop in Olde Quebec City. No desire to get into Toronto this time round. Tho it is a city on my "list", i will either drive into it by car sometime or fly up. i think a long weekend there would be a treat at some point in my life.

Art,
We may see you as we swing thru, and as we develop more completely the route we'll choose. At this time i really don't even know how many total days we'll have, but i'll be referring back to this thread from now until departure. At the very least, perhaps we may pop by for a quick visit. Thank you sir, for the invite. that's very gracious of you.

Just roughly trying to get any sense at all of what kind of time it takes to say, go from Digby, around south, to Yarmouth and up the East Coast, it appears -again according to Google Maps- that it's perhaps a full day all the way to Halifax? That would be waking up in St John, taking the ferry across, and doing that ride. It seems from what i can glean, that the ferry ride over to Digby is 2-3 hours? Am i off base on this? BTW, we aren't locked in to going into Halifax, per se, but that's kind of been a target during this initial (and loose) planning phase. I guess, by looking at my Atlas, the route from Digby around to Halifax only covers about half of Nova Scotia, so i'll have to more closely consider the routes you have all suggested with the sights and POIs along the way.

Harry, & Hondarider,

I've only just Google Mapped (a tool i use frequently) the routes from Harrisburg PA up to Grafton, VT, and from Grafton over to the Brunswick, ME area. The first day out, up to Grafton, is going to be a pretty big day. Tho i've only taken a bare-bones peek at the route, it looks like it suggests US 219 up into NY state, then eventually bypassing Albany and entering Southern VT in that SW corner. The suggestion from Grafton over to the Brunswick area is a quickie 4-5 hour ride, so we may stretch that a bit, to include a trip over the White Mountains, which i think would have us going thru Conway, NH, and almost straight across ME. I certainly welcome any and all suggestions, and greatly appreciate your input and knowledge. Less busy routes may just be as quick as a more direct route with more traffic on it. We basically have all day, with a couple gas stops and a lunch stop in there. As long as we don't have to really put a hustle on then we are keeping to the "leisure" plan.

This is all really helpful info, i deeply appreciate it. Keep an eye on this thread and we'll all see how the trip develops. If any one wants to PM or Email anything specific, that would be great. Feel free to post it here, in the hopes that others may also benefit from your suggestions. My email address can be found in my public profile, i do believe. If not, just ask and i'll PM it to you.

Have a great day everybody!

Tom

[bmwrider88]

Canadian universities and colleges offer residence accommodations during the summer months. Check out http://www.aucc.ca/canadian-universities/our-universities to find colleges/universities along your route. Once you have zeroed in on a campus, look for the Tourist/travellers information. I often pay between $30-$40, depending if breakfast is served. Lots of good two lane roads through New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. If you follow the Gaspe Pennisula, you will most likely be taking Hwy 132. If this is the case, take the three hour ferry from Matane to Baie-Comeau on the north shore of the St. Lawrence. It is a more scenic ride. Do stop and stay in Old Quebec City. No that will not be inexpensive, but worth the visit to stay in a European city. In Ontario, yes you will most likely have to take the 401 unless you detour north to scenic back roads and then head due south to Niagara Falls. When in the Toronto area, pay the exorbitant toll fee for the 407. That way you will live to see another day. The 401 around Toronto is the most heavily travelled road in North America. LA freeways were a Sunday afternoon ride compared to our Toronto 401. Allow yourself lots of time to really enjoy the ride. Don't forget to ride the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island when in Nova Scotia. You will overwhelmed by just how friendly our neighbours on the east coast are.

Hi,
and thanks for the advice. We may look into your suggestion to stay at some universities along the way. And we will almost certainly take the ferry from Matane over to Baie-Comeau to travel down to Quebec on the North side of the St Lawrenece on the 138. I am up for a stay in Olde Quebec, but also must consider the opinions of those whom i'm traveling with.

From Quebec, it appears to get complicated. A preferable route would most likely be a northern one, away from busier roadways, staying away from Montreal? My Atlas makes it look pretty dense, as tho the suburbs merge from one to another along the way, between cities. From Quebec to Ottowa, it appears there is a series of roadways in the 300s which seem to be smaller but not extremely rural- tho they are many between the two cities.

Out of Ottowa, it appears the Rte 7 is a direct route that may be similar to our US hiways- smaller than a major motorway with at-grade intersections, down to Peterborough or Lindsay? from there a wide swing around North of Toronto somehow would be welcome, to arrive at lakeside in order to come into Niagra from the West, perhaps on Rte 3?

Don't know how easy that would be but any suggestions are welcome.

It has been suggested that we might go all the way up to Sidney on Nova Scotia, everyone says the Cabot Trail is worth the ride. From there we may just bee-line across New Brunswick to Matane, then slow it down a bit from there to Niagra. Out of Niagra, it is a good day's ride out of Buffalo on US 219, then cutting more Southeast to my home.

I'm trying to figure loose mileages and times from point to point, not really knowing just yet what our total time allotment will be... of course we want to leave some wiggle room, but IMO our main interests lies in Nova Scotia, and then perhaps Quebec, and Niagra. Looks like we'll have 3 days to Saint John, then 2-3 days on NS, with perhaps another 3 from Sydney over to Quebec?

If we ride the Cabot Trail out of Sydney, Google maps lists it as 16 hours over to Matane, on secondary roads, using the *avoid Highways* option! which means two days for us.

This suggested route cuts across the base of the Gaspe Peninsula. Unfortunately, but i fear that time constraints will allow only so much. Some discussion will illuminate our priorities as a group, i suppose, and all will be revealed eventually!

Cheers.

Tom

[dwyandell]

A couple of thoughts from someone who thinks Cape Breton is one of the most beautiful places on earth.
First, you'd be absolutely nuts to blow through any part of Nova Scotia from the Bay of Fundy eastward. Take your time here, it is gorgeous, with little traffic, and so much to enjoy.
Route-wise, as pointed out already the border crossing at Lubec via Campobello Island and the various connecting ferries is SOOO much better than the Calais crossing and Route 1 route. Slower, but. . .who can resist a tiny ferry that putters by fishing villages? If you're a trucker, take Route 1 via Calais but otherwise, go through Lubec and take the ferries.
Second, the whole Bay of Fundy area/Fundy Nat'l Park is a natural wonder that is not to be missed, and ripe for exploring on a motorcycle (yes, the roads are paved). The Provincial and national parks around the Fundy area are clean, uncrowded, well maintained and are terrific to stay at ; I'm sure there are good B&B's also. I've hit a few parks on the Northern side (the PEI side) that were overcrowded with none of the beauty of the Bay of Fundy. . .maybe just bad luck, tho.
Re: Cape Breton .. . .be aware that tourist season starts in June, and you WANT to go at that time (things close in the off season, including many restaurants, pubs and lodging) Bras d'Or is beautiful and the Cabot Trail (northern circle) is a must for scenery, but--do you like music? Following Route 19 down the west side (this is called the Ceilidh trail) will bring you to the musical heart of Cape Breton, including Inverness and Mabou. I highly recommend the Inverness Beach Village for lodging and a stopover. . family run, humble cottages but on a swimmable sandy beach. Be sure to stop in Mabou at the Red Shoe pub, and explore to the West as far as Mabou Mines, Mabou Harbour, and West Mabou. And go to a square dance--not just to dance, but to see the whole community--all ages from 3 to 90-- come out at once and have fun together.
The only problem with stopping and exploring in Cape Breton is that you won't want to leave.

[RoboRider]

Consider

http://www.novascotia.com/en/home/planyourtrip/getting_here/by_land/novascotiamotorcycling.aspx

[CanadianSteve]

:ca Have good suspension for your bikes ... my wife has back issues, we are considering not taking our R100RS to Nova Scotia anymore because the roads are so terrible, frost heaves are unreal !!! Our place is near Antigonish, we find the back roads to be almost unrideable. Also visit Tor Bay if you get the chance ... beautiful sand beach and open ocean views !
Steve

[tourunigo]

:ca Have good suspension for your bikes ... my wife has back issues, we are considering not taking our R100RS to Nova Scotia anymore because the roads are so terrible, frost heaves are unreal !!! Our place is near Antigonish, we find the back roads to be almost unrideable. Also visit Tor Bay if you get the chance ... beautiful sand beach and open ocean views !
Steve
your brush stroke is far too broad and gives the wrong impression. Lots of roads that I would say have a 'challenging aspect' to them but that's it. If you're in a hurry go to Nevada (for example) but things are a bit different here. Ask any of the Salty Fog Riders Rally attendees if the roads are unrideable. I found the roads around Oklahoma City somewhat unrideable so it happens everywhere. (btw, there really are some disgusting backroads in places; politics often trumps citizen needs. Also, Tor Bay is wonderful and we encourage anyone traveling through our area (Larry's River; about six miles from Tor Bay) to visit that beach. - Bob

[tourunigo]

A couple of thoughts from someone who thinks Cape Breton is one of the most beautiful places on earth.
First, you'd be absolutely nuts to blow through any part of Nova Scotia from the Bay of Fundy eastward. Take your time here, it is gorgeous, with little traffic, and so much to enjoy.
Route-wise, as pointed out already the border crossing at Lubec via Campobello Island and the various connecting ferries is SOOO much better than the Calais crossing and Route 1 route. Slower, but. . .who can resist a tiny ferry that putters by fishing villages? If you're a trucker, take Route 1 via Calais but otherwise, go through Lubec and take the ferries.
Second, the whole Bay of Fundy area/Fundy Nat'l Park is a natural wonder that is not to be missed, and ripe for exploring on a motorcycle (yes, the roads are paved). The Provincial and national parks around the Fundy area are clean, uncrowded, well maintained and are terrific to stay at ; I'm sure there are good B&B's also. I've hit a few parks on the Northern side (the PEI side) that were overcrowded with none of the beauty of the Bay of Fundy. . .maybe just bad luck, tho.
Re: Cape Breton .. . .be aware that tourist season starts in June, and you WANT to go at that time (things close in the off season, including many restaurants, pubs and lodging) Bras d'Or is beautiful and the Cabot Trail (northern circle) is a must for scenery, but--do you like music? Following Route 19 down the west side (this is called the Ceilidh trail) will bring you to the musical heart of Cape Breton, including Inverness and Mabou. I highly recommend the Inverness Beach Village for lodging and a stopover. . family run, humble cottages but on a swimmable sandy beach. Be sure to stop in Mabou at the Red Shoe pub, and explore to the West as far as Mabou Mines, Mabou Harbour, and West Mabou. And go to a square dance--not just to dance, but to see the whole community--all ages from 3 to 90-- come out at once and have fun together.
The only problem with stopping and exploring in Cape Breton is that you won't want to leave.

Additionally, consider September as a good touring time. Campgrounds are still open and many of the tourists have taken their kids home for school and thus less traffic. Better weather too. Red Shoe in Mabou is a fine stop. Don't forget to stop at the Glenora Distillery on your way. - Bob

[tommcgee]

If you're a trucker, take Route 1 via Calais but otherwise, go through Lubec and take the ferries.

There's a brand new crossing SW of Calais/St.Stephen at Milltown that's designed for high volume unlike the old crossing on two lane city streets. It connects directly to Rte 1 in New Brunswick, which has had major construction the past few years to make it a divided highway. It's still being worked on in some sections. (Update your GPS maps) Very pleasant crossing and ride to the Salty Fog in 2011.

And yes, I've taken the ferry from L'Etete to Deer Island to Eastport -- beach departure and beach landing on Deer island and in Eastport. It's a good ride if you can take the time and the weather is nice.

Bumpy roads? I like bumpy roads.

Old crossing is near "A" -- New crossing at St. Croix reservoir. There is also another tiny crossing at Milltown between the two.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/6443606337_e968df3503_o.png

[deilenberger]

Don't forget to stop at the Glenora Distillery on your way. - BobAnd if you're REALLY lucky - the Distillery might have a room cancellation the day you stop. If they do - TAKE IT. The whiskey is amazing ($$$ but still amazing), and the food and entertainment in the bar even more amazing.

One of those "glad I did it.." sort of stops. Something really memorable. You don't have to worry about drinking too much - no one I know could afford to..

Gotta get back to NS soon..

[dwyandell]

+1 on the Glenora stop. . . forgot that one.
One more important thing though- - the people in Nova Scotia are as nice as you will ever meet, from an ice cream stop to an emergency. Another reason to slow down a bit and take some back roads up there.

[tourunigo]

+1 on the Glenora stop. . . forgot that one.
One more important thing though- - the people in Nova Scotia are as nice as you will ever meet, from an ice cream stop to an emergency. Another reason to slow down a bit and take some back roads up there.

slowing down a bit can be meditative and pleasant. It may take a few days to decompress but when you do you can get into a nice little zone. People and places seem somehow more vibrant. However, your planning must include a stay much longer than plugging in a couple of days to "do Nova Scotia". With about 5,000 miles of shoreline roads it might take a spell to get to even half of it. Personally I think a /5 a perfect bike for the task..... but I'm biased.

Glenora's too pricey for my wallet but the visit is excellent, entertaining and very educational.... with top drawer Scotch (yes, they have now received Scotland's blessing to call it Scotch :clap

One more note: it is quite possible that a 'slow ferry' between Portland and Yarmouth may happen by summer. Worth keeping an eye on. - Bob

[martinPH]

I found that 2 weeks is Nova Scotia, Was, if anything, just enough! I didnt want to leave.
Bob tell them about the Bakery near the ferry; I cant remember the name.

[tourunigo]

I found that 2 weeks is Nova Scotia, Was, if anything, just enough! I didnt want to leave.
Bob tell them about the Bakery near the ferry; I cant remember the name.

That must be the one down in Lahave on what we call the South Shore. Going south on route 103 take exit 10 and then #3 highway ( one of those backroads). Visit Mahone Bay and then onward into Lunenburg (stop here for a while and walk around and stay if you can!). Now, just out of Lunenburg on #3 take a left on #332 (Lighthouse Route) Soon you'll be in East Lahave. There's a little cable ferry that crosses the Lahave River. Get off the ferry and turn left and the bakery will be there on the riverside. Go in and listen, smell, look around ...... mmmmmmm. Great folks with equally great food (more in the bakery line) Sit and enjoy. A slight drift back in time can be had. Buy a little sumpin' fer later. That whole beautiful journey was only 16 miles long but you could easily spend the day.

Those that 'do Nova Scotia' on the main highway system (103 for example) are condemned to the most modest of experiences and will leave this beautiful Province without ever seeing it. Come and enjoy! Consider our Salty Fog Riders Rally in September as an option :thumb - Bob

[flyhi2cfar]

My opinion based on a September 2011, 3 week trip to the Salty Fog.
Bob W. is the guru & his two thousanth seven hundred fifty post is true... slow down & enjoy a coastal ride like you can only dream of! You wont be sorry. The roads are fine for "sightseeing" speeds there, especially 2 up... they add character :blush

[tourunigo]

My opinion based on a September 2011, 3 week trip to the Salty Fog.
Bob W. is the guru & his two thousanth seven hundred fifty post is true... slow down & enjoy a coastal ride like you can only dream of! You wont be sorry. The roads are fine for "sightseeing" speeds there, especially 2 up... they add character :blush

:blush .... However, speaking of characters......:rofl Looking forward to meeting up again with you and Dara. - bob

[Paul_F]

From Quebec, it appears to get complicated. A preferable route would most likely be a northern one, away from busier roadways, staying away from Montreal?

Out of Ottowa, it appears the Rte 7 is a direct route that may be similar to our US hiways- smaller than a major motorway with at-grade intersections, down to Peterborough or Lindsay? from there a wide swing around North of Toronto somehow would be welcome, to arrive at lakeside in order to come into Niagra from the West, perhaps on Rte 3?

Don't know how easy that would be but any suggestions are welcome.

Tom

I have taken motorcyclist friends' advice and routes and gone around Montreal and I have also just taken the most direct route through that city. I prefer the most direct route.

Hwy 7 from Ottawa to Peterborough is a not too heavily travelled two lane road. You should enjoy that route. From Peterborough, there are a number of back roads, all north of Toronto that could take you to Orangeville and Erin and from there, head south to the Niagara region. Do visit Niagara on the Lake.

It will not be necessary to go as far south as Hwy 3 to reach Niagara as there a number of paved county roads north of Hwy 3 that will lead into Niagara, once you have an Ontario map.

[DARRYL CAINEY]

Paul is right, once you get into Niagara on the Lake make sure you take River Rd.
south to Fort Erie, about 30 miles of million dollar homes 60 km road past
Niagara Falls. Lots to sightsee and beautiful ride along the niagara River.

[bmwrider88]

you guys are awesome,

Thanks!

We may have to rethink this a bit.... of course our real problem is time. I am with all of you in that i don't like whirl-wind tours- they leave you feeling like you have missed the Heart and Soul of a place. To miss the H&S of Nova Scotia might be regrettable!

Perhaps, as someone suggested, we might just forget about going over to Niagra Falls, and spend the bulk of our time on Nova Scotia as everyone suggests, then meander over to Quebec for a taste of that great city (one night, maybe two), and just go home from there. It looks like we'll have two weeks, with weekends on either end.



Reality check please?

We definitely will take US 1 from Round Pond ME up to St John (if they open a ferry from Portland to (Yarmouth?) Nova Scotia, we'll re-think that). We'd probably want to take the slower route and the small ferries and crossings. I see a night in St John. Google Maps puts it about 5-6 hours from Round Pond to St John (?)

Next day, we take the ferry over to Digby, and meander our way along the coast for a full day to a night's stay in Lunenburg. it's unclear to me but i think it's realistic to expect to do this in a day of riding the slower, coastal roads?

I'll have to really look at the locations of that small beach, the Glenora Distillery, and the other nice suggestions, to see where along the way these places are- then we may adjust accordingly.

From Lunenburg, it looks like a full day up to Sydney? Sticking to the coast, maybe longer with another night's stay in there somewhere? We DO want to ride the Cabot Trail, and "do" Cape Breton. As i said, we will almost certainly get to the Distillery and the beach village mentioned above....

Leaving Nova Scotia, it seems like a solid two day ride to Matane? The ferry ride to Baie-Comeau and the ride down to Quebec in one day?

************************************************** ***************

I really see this shaping up into two targets- Nova Scotia being primary and Quebec City (Olde Quebec) secondary- with some serious get-along up, to, between, and back. Well, *serious* being relative- with us still staying off the Superslabs, sticking to secondary roads... i guess by serious, i mean utility stops only with no real sight-seeing on these legs between, say, Nova Scotia and Quebec, for example, or between Quebec and home.
The Scenic riding days will begin in earnest when we leave Round Pond to go North to St John, and end when we leave Nova Scotia- tho from Baie-Comeau down to Quebec will be a leisure run, i think- this looks like an easy day's ride.

As for the roads, suspension, and whatnot, my 93 RS has the Ohlins gas shock on it, so i'm guessing the suspension is OK here- Ohlins was at the National last summer and i had those guys "tune" my shock- which was far off the factory settings. It's now set for my weight and riding style. My alternate ride is my 88 K100, also with a recently rebuilt (by the factory) Ohlins gas shock... so i THINK we can handle whatever comes our way. Our travel partners are on a new D/S Moto Guzzi- i don't see them having any issues at all. We're planning no camping, so there's a huge load of gear we WON'T be toting. I don't see the bikes being overloaded, or packed to capacity.

SO...
Thanks a million, everyone, for your input and suggestions. Please keep 'em coming. I love things like the small bakery, and the little beach village with square dancing. I think i can speak for everyone and say this is what we are looking to discover on this trip. This is the very stuff that, in my mind, comprises the heart and the soul of a place.

I've written this post before going back to the maps and PC, so please excuse if my proposed path has skipped any of the suggested stops.

Cheers, all!
Have a great day.

Tom

[32232]

Tom,
That's a more realistic target. Take your time, Halifax is a lovely city, see Lunenburg, and spend at least two or three days on Cape Breton Island. Stop in at Pictou on your way to eastern Quebec, as well. You'll enjoy that pace much more.

[bmwrider88]

Tom,
That's a more realistic target. Take your time, Halifax is a lovely city, see Lunenburg, and spend at least two or three days on Cape Breton Island. Stop in at Pictou on yor way to eastern Quebec, as well. You'll enjoy that pace much more.

Thanks Dave,
looks like that's going to be the gist of our focus.
we'll look at Pictou.

Tom

[bmwrider88]

I found that 2 weeks is Nova Scotia, Was, if anything, just enough! I didnt want to leave.
Bob tell them about the Bakery near the ferry; I cant remember the name.

more elaboration on the Bakery location, please? somewhere in St John? or Digby?

sounds like it's right up our alley!
small places for good local food are exactly what we are looking to discover. any and all info on out of the way or low key spots to eat is A-OK.

we've decided not to go to Niagra and to just spend more time on Nova Scotia.
we WILL get over to Old Quebec City for two nights.


we'll probably try the low key border crossing in St Stephen, might be a good place for lunch if anyone knows of a decent place in town there?

[martinPH]

The bakery is not far from Lunenburg, towards Halifax. We spent several hours there.
If you visit Quebec city, you can leave your bike close to the info booth and take a bus for $3.00 to the old city. You will want to leave your boots behind and wear walking shoes.

[bmwrider88]

The bakery is not far from Lunenburg, towards Halifax. We spent several hours there.
If you visit Quebec city, you can leave your bike close to the info booth and take a bus for $3.00 to the old city. You will want to leave your boots behind and wear walking shoes.

we are planning to stay 2 nights in Old Quebec City.

i was looking at reviews on Trip Advisor
(a fantastic resource BTW) but what i really want to know- is there a GARAGE?- isn't what folks are talking about in their hotel reviews...

any advice about hotels in Old Quebec would really help. i know it's gonna be expensive but what the heck- i also know it'll be worth it. and a nice chance to just get of the bikes completely for a couple days...

[deilenberger]

any advice about hotels in Old Quebec would really help. i know it's gonna be expensive but what the heck- i also know it'll be worth it. and a nice chance to just get of the bikes completely for a couple days...Well - there is Le Château Frontenac.. (been staying there on and off for about 40 years.. it was a LOT cheaper 40 years ago..) http://www.fairmont.com/frontenac

The Frontenac is the premier hotel in the old city.. and the prices reflect that, but there are some deals to be found at it if you shop with things like Priceline and Orbitz. Right across the street is IMHO one of the world's best resturants (Aux Anciens Canadians), and the Frontenac is right on the boardwalk/prominade. You can walk to almost any old-city attraction you want to, tour buses leave from right in front, the funicular to the lower old city is right outside.. It's a great location, and if you're only doing it once, it's worth the $$$$. When we've stayed there (about a dozen times now..) we parked the car and spent several days walking. It is safe to walk at 2AM in the morning in old Quebec..

Bikes aren't allowed in the old city.. but you should be able to find parking not too far from the gates. I believe there are public buses you can then take into the old city. Just outside the gates of the old city there are some large chain hotels like Hilton, etc. Not bad - but modern. Small hotels and B&B's are all over - in and outside the old city. They usually have some parking available (for a price.)

FWIW - the first time we stayed in the Frontenac - we first had a room for $17/night. It was up in very top of the tower, and we found out about the early AM 21 gun salute for some battleship entering the city.. so we moved down a few floors and paid $14/night. Things have gone up just a bit since then..

Gotta get back there soon - hmmm.... always wanted to do the winter festival.. (January-February..)

[tourunigo]

more elaboration on the Bakery location, please? somewhere in St John? or Digby?

sounds like it's right up our alley!
small places for good local food are exactly what we are looking to discover. any and all info on out of the way or low key spots to eat is A-OK.

we've decided not to go to Niagra and to just spend more time on Nova Scotia.
we WILL get over to Old Quebec City for two nights.


we'll probably try the low key border crossing in St Stephen, might be a good place for lunch if anyone knows of a decent place in town there?

see post #27; if you would like a map I can post. mmmmmm .... don't want to miss it eh? - Bob

[bmwrider88]

see post #27; if you would like a map I can post. mmmmmm .... don't want to miss it eh? - Bob


got it Bob.
thanks. that's the kind of stuff i typically seek out, the little places that make up the character of a place, a spot the average person passing thru might not find.

[tourunigo]

got it Bob.
thanks. that's the kind of stuff i typically seek out, the little places that make up the character of a place, a spot the average person passing thru might not find.

If coming from Halifax direction: "Going south on route 103 take exit 10 and then #3 highway ( one of those backroads). Visit Mahone Bay and then onward into Lunenburg (stop here for a while and walk around and stay if you can!). Now, just out of Lunenburg on #3 take a left on #332 (Lighthouse Route) Soon you'll be in East Lahave. There's a little cable ferry that crosses the Lahave River. Get off the ferry and turn left and the bakery will be there on the riverside."

However, if coming from Yarmouth direction on the 103, take route 331 (also part of Lighthouse Route) and it follows the shore up to that bakery and ferry in East Lahave (they pronounce it with a long a sound not a soft a) That turn onto 331 is 10 miles past the turnoff to Liverpool. Look for it on the right. Follow 331 (lots to see on this path) for 22 miles and the bakery and then ferry will be on your right (river side). Take ferry across the Lahave River and reverse my original post.

Also a great little historic pub in Chester about half way between Halifax and the bakery. :eat:drink - Bob

[bmwrider88]

Thanks bro.
we'll be coming out of the south, sticking to the 3 and 331, as close to the coast as we can, avoiding the bigger roads all the way. Planning to stay in Lunenburg, maybe for a couple days (?)- thinking it'll be a good place to hang even for exploring Halifax and the surrounding area, maybe even the west side of the peninsula- before moving up to Cape Breton Island & the Cabot Trail...

the distances don't seem too vast. there's a great distance calculator on the
Nova Scotia.com site which is going to invaluable for us.

[tourunigo]

Get Harold and Wendy's book http://www.motorcycletourguidens.com/ It is the original and truly invaluable resource for places in Nova Scotia done at a wee bit slower pace. Lots of ads in it but I guess they have to support a good thing somehow. BTW, Nova Scotia mainland is a peninsula and Cape Breton Island, while part of Nova Scotia, is an island. - Bob

[bmwrider88]

My bad, Bob. right you are. :deal

i sent off for an M/C guide book off the main tourism website for Nova Scotia. bottom left on this page:

https://www.novascotia.com/en/home/planyourtrip/travel_guides/default.aspx

another person off ADVrider is sending me a NS motorcycle tour guide book as well, so perhaps one of the two will be the one you speak of? if not i'll pick one up... i may wait until the 2012 version hits, tho.

[Paul_F]

Well - there is Le Château Frontenac.. (been staying there on and off for about 40 years.. it was a LOT cheaper 40 years ago..) http://www.fairmont.com/frontenac

Bikes aren't allowed in the old city.. but you should be able to find parking not too far from the gates.

FWIW - the first time we stayed in the Frontenac - we first had a room for $17/night. It was up in very top of the tower, and we found out about the early AM 21 gun salute for some battleship entering the city.. so we moved down a few floors and paid $14/night. Things have gone up just a bit since then..

Gotta get back there soon - hmmm.... always wanted to do the winter festival.. (January-February..)

You've got us beat. Forty years ago the Frontenac cost my wife and I $19 a night, with an additional $5.00 per night for valet parking.

Bikes are permitted in the old city IF you have an hotel reservation. Did that last fall.

[tourunigo]

My bad, Bob. right you are. :deal

i sent off for an M/C guide book off the main tourism website for Nova Scotia. bottom left on this page:

https://www.novascotia.com/en/home/planyourtrip/travel_guides/default.aspx

another person off ADVrider is sending me a NS motorcycle tour guide book as well, so perhaps one of the two will be the one you speak of? if not i'll pick one up... i may wait until the 2012 version hits, tho.

roads won't change much but some of the events will so get the 2012 when you can. Usually at the tourist centers as you come into the Province. Better to get it early though. Also, it just may happen that a ferry between Portland and Yarmouth might appear. Trouble is that you are then into a forced choice because two shore roads ( ie Digby and Annapolis Valley vs South Shore and Lunenburg, Mahone Bay, Chester and...... the Lahave Bakery....... ah... take an extra three days and do it all :clap). Maybe we can meet up whilst upon yer journey? - Bob

[bmwrider88]

Bob,

i think from Lunenburg, we can spread out to Halifax and catch that east side with the Annapolis valley and all that? in a day trip or two? i am certain we'll want to do a whale watching trip in thereat some point. another member of this forum has sent me a couple PMs/emails with some good info, including an outfit who does whale watching tours on a mid sized boat.

it looks like we will spend several days in the area - Between the peninsula and then Cape Breton Island- before more or less
dead-heading it over to Old Quebec City. seems we are thinking it'll be sometime in June right now. i'l try to remember to PM you before we leave and give you my number, email, etc.

with any luck we can milk this thread until then! :bar

[Paul_F]

it looks like we will spend several days in the area - Between the peninsula and then Cape Breton Island- before more or less
dead-heading it over to Old Quebec City. seems we are thinking it'll be sometime in June right now. i'l try to remember to PM you before we leave and give you my number, email, etc.

with any luck we can milk this thread until then! :bar

It might three, maybe two days, instead of one getting to Quebec City if you went around the Gaspe Bay Peninsula, but being so close it'd be a shame to miss such a scenic ride.

[bmwrider88]

i figure two rock solid days over to Quebec. think we'll cross the St Lawrence at Matane and ride down the north side of the river. unfortunately there's a time constraint, and we just can't do it all. :cry
we're *settling for* several days in Nova Scotia, and a couple nights in Old Quebec City. Missing the Gaspe Peninsula will give us a reason to come back up sometime!

thanks for the heads up tho. i appreciate your input. :thumb

Tom

[Jogitu]

Just a thought- i know we'll be in French-speaking areas, through Ontario, but not so certain about Nova Scotia. I have a French Phrasebook i plan to bring, but have no real skills in French.

Any tips about the use of -or expectancy of the use of- French, would be appreciated.

I have been to many French speaking parts of Canada on my bike trips over the last two years. I know Bonjour and Poutine and that is it for my French. It is not an issue except they will address you in French first as they will assume it is your language. If you really get off the beaten path and we did you may have a harder time ordering lunch but you will be ok. I sort of like the fact I have no idea how to speak the language as it makes the trip a bigger adventure. Don't worry and trust me you will be fine. As far as interstates they are not bad there like ours. In New Brunswick it is like riding a country road due to lack of traffic. When it comes to Toronto or Montreal it is a freaking nightmare. Whatever roads you choose in New Brunswick, PEI or Nova Scotia will be fine. In some parts of Canada the only way to get somewhere is on the big slabs. I love riding in Canada. The roads are in great shape and have no traffic unless you hit the two big Cities I mentioned. Ottawa and Quebec City are a breeze on the big slabs.

[Jogitu]

My 2011 trip to Nova Scotia

https://picasaweb.google.com/114347703165768851651/NovaScotia?authkey=Gv1sRgCJW6kti84tOK_AE

[bmwrider88]

Kevin,
thanks for the info!

[Holly]

Do plan to spend lots of time in NS and a couple of days in Quebec. I always take HwY 7 from Ottawa to Hamilton instead of the 401. If you are going to take that route, let me know and I'll route you from Peterborough to the 407--the most expensive toll road in the world, but it does get you around Toronto. Plus the toll cameras often have trouble getting the license plate on a fully loaded bike (stay to the side of the road but not on the shoulder (too much garbage--the toll is cheaper than new tires) and go fairly quickly past the cameras. If I'm home when you are coming through, you are welcome to stay at my place near Hamilton. I know the good road from Hamilton to Niagara Falls and can show you around the Falls as I was born there.

Holly

[bmwrider88]

Do plan to spend lots of time in NS and a couple of days in Quebec. I always take HwY 7 from Ottawa to Hamilton instead of the 401. If you are going to take that route, let me know and I'll route you from Peterborough to the 407--the most expensive toll road in the world, but it does get you around Toronto. Plus the toll cameras often have trouble getting the license plate on a fully loaded bike (stay to the side of the road but not on the shoulder (too much garbage--the toll is cheaper than new tires) and go fairly quickly past the cameras. If I'm home when you are coming through, you are welcome to stay at my place near Hamilton. I know the good road from Hamilton to Niagara Falls and can show you around the Falls as I was born there.

Holly

Holly,
thanks! i appreciate that info, and your gracious offer. unfortunately (depending on how you view it) we are going to skip going to Niagra Falls this time out. we have a time constraint, and have decided that Niagra Falls/Toronto should just be another whole trip... the area is only about 6 or so hours from home, and i always wanted to go to Toronto for a few days anyway.

instead we are going to just make Nova Scotia our primary focus, then definitely spend a couple nights in the Old City of Quebec. if you know anything about Old Quebec, that information would be most helpful.

Cheers, and thanks again!
Have a great day.

Tom

[bmwrider88]

The "plan" is coming together for our trip. So far we are booked into hotels in

Bar Harbor, ME - Highbrook Motel
Saint John, NB - Chipman Hill Suites
Lunenburg, NS - Smuggler's Cove Inn

Couple questions so far:

turns out there are only TWO ferries from Saint John to Digby- 12:00 noon & 14:00 (2:00 PM). Is it worth the wait or should we go around by land onto the peninsula? We have the Lunenburg hotel booked for the night after Saint John. We thought we'd take the ferry and ride the south coast around to Lunenburg making it a full day, but now, not so sure.

We are thinking we'll go from Lunenburg where we actually booked three nights
(tho may stay only two) up onto the Island to ride the Cabot Trail. Haven't booked any lodging up there yet- thinking we'll ride and choose a place each evening as we go.
Do-able? or not?

[tourunigo]

The "plan" is coming together for our trip. So far we are booked into hotels in

Bar Harbor, ME - Highbrook Motel
Saint John, NB - Chipman Hill Suites
Lunenburg, NS - Smuggler's Cove Inn

Couple questions so far:

turns out there are only TWO ferries from Saint John to Digby- 12:00 noon & 14:00 (2:00 PM). Is it worth the wait or should we go around by land onto the peninsula? We have the Lunenburg hotel booked for the night after Saint John. We thought we'd take the ferry and ride the south coast around to Lunenburg making it a full day, but now, not so sure.

We are thinking we'll go from Lunenburg where we actually booked three nights
(tho may stay only two) up onto the Island to ride the Cabot Trail. Haven't booked any lodging up there yet- thinking we'll ride and choose a place each evening as we go.
Do-able? or not?

Trip by ferry with Lunenburg destination: three hours by water and 1.5 by land.

Ride Around: 308 miles to Lunenburg. Leave early and arrive in 4-5 hours. You could be there before the ferry sails eh?

stop in Chester for the best pub food in the oldest pub in Canada (maybe): http://www.focslechester.com/

PM for more info if you like. - Bob

[tommcgee]

The "plan" is coming together for our trip. So far we are booked into hotels in

Bar Harbor, ME - Highbrook Motel
Saint John, NB - Chipman Hill Suites
Lunenburg, NS - Smuggler's Cove Inn


Highly recommended, "The Colony" in Hulls Cove (Bar Harbor). Been staying there several times a year for many years. If you rent a "motel room" rather than a cottage, you can park the bike under the overhang and keep it out of the rain/dew.

Great place, decor straight out of 1955, clean, very reasonable, family run, nice people. Was there this past Sunday.

Best breakfast in Bar Harbor is a tossup between 2 Cats and Jordan's Restaurant. JR is more traditional. Both are reasonably priced. I often choose by what time I get up. 2 Cats opens at 7, Jordan's opens at 5.