Airhead n00b with some questions.

[jmerlino]

I brought home my first airhead yesterday, and today I took it out for a good ride. It's an '82 R100. Naked, no fairing or windshield.

I'm hooked. This bike feels like "mine" in a way that my F never did. So I'm very excited to have this bike, and I plan on putting quite a few miles on it.

To that end, I've got some questions about maintainence and "restoration". I put "restoration" in quotes, because I'm not really looking to restore it to a like-new condition, but I do want to clean it up and make it look like a clean, well-maintained old bike, rather than a dirty, neglected old bike. So, a few questions for the gurus here:

1) Is it okay to use de-greaser on the anodized aluminum parts? For some reason, I've got it in my head that it's not, and I don't know why (I probably read it on the dang Interweb somewheres). The wheels (snowflake) and the engine block and cylinders are really cruddy-looking, and I'd like to get them as clean as I can.

2) The tank has got a few dings in it, and I'd like to get it looking good. Can you get touch-up paint that matches BMW colors, and if so, where? Also, can someone point me for a good procedure for doing touch-ups?

3) The bike tends to feel a little uneven around 4000 RPMs, especially in low gears. By uneven, I mean that it feels a little surgey. It's not terrible. It's not like the bike is bucking or anything, but I can feel some intermittent "pulling". Any ideas what this could be? Carbs out of sync?

4) I need a storage solution. Eventually I want to pick up a pair of the Hepco-Becker classic Krasuer repro side cases, but untill I can free up the cash for that, I need some way to carry stuff around with me. I'm thinking about picking up a pair of cheap faux-leather throw-over saddlebags, but I'm also open to other suggestions. Gotta be cheap, though, as it's a temporary thing. Ideas?

That's all I can think of just at the moment. I'm sure I'll come up with other stuff, eventually. Thanks in advance for your help.

[flash412]

1) Is it okay to use de-greaser on the anodized aluminum parts? For some reason, I've got it in my head that it's not, and I don't know why (I probably read it on the dang Interweb somewheres). The wheels (snowflake) and the engine block and cylinders are really cruddy-looking, and I'd like to get them as clean as I can.A GOOD hardware store should have Aluminum Jelly. Follow the instructions. Do NOT get it on painted parts.2) The tank has got a few dings in it, and I'd like to get it looking good. Can you get touch-up paint that matches BMW colors, and if so, where? Also, can someone point me for a good procedure for doing touch-ups?BMW used to offer touch-up sticks. They might still for a bike of your vintage. Check with Chicago BMW.3) The bike tends to feel a little uneven around 4000 RPMs, especially in low gears. By uneven, I mean that it feels a little surgey. It's not terrible. It's not like the bike is bucking or anything, but I can feel some intermittent "pulling". Any ideas what this could be? Carbs out of sync?Start with a complete tune-up. Until you know that the air filter is clean, the valves set right and the timing spot-on, you're wasting your time to mess with anything else.4) I need a storage solution. Eventually I want to pick up a pair of the Hepco-Becker classic Krasuer repro side cases, but untill I can free up the cash for that, I need some way to carry stuff around with me. I'm thinking about picking up a pair of cheap faux-leather throw-over saddlebags, but I'm also open to other suggestions. Gotta be cheap, though, as it's a temporary thing. Ideas?Mount a Pelican Case for a top box, or two for saddlebags. If you want REALLY cheap... bungee a milk crate on the luggage rack.

[jmerlino]

Thanks, Flash. I'll do a little investigatin' on your suggestions.

[bprigge]

I've got a set of throw-over saddle bags that I use for touring on my R75/6.
I think they're Chase Harpers, not leather, but I'm very happy with them.
Did about 5k in trips with them last year. The bags were about $130 at
Dennis Kirk's. Also, a small 'bug screen' type windshield makes a big difference out on the highway and they look cool on an airhead. I'm talking about the type thats only about a foot high. Enjoy your new ride!

Bruce

[jmerlino]

I've got a set of throw-over saddle bags that I use for touring on my R75/6.
I think they're Chase Harpers, not leather, but I'm very happy with them.
Did about 5k in trips with them last year. The bags were about $130 at
Dennis Kirk's. Also, a small 'bug screen' type windshield makes a big difference out on the highway and they look cool on an airhead. I'm talking about the type thats only about a foot high. Enjoy your new ride!

Bruce

Ah - I went ahead and ordered the H&B's. That's what credit cards are for, right? ;)

On the windshield - I was thinking about ordering a Deflector Screen from National Cycle. It's bigger than what you describe, but it has hardware that allows for quick attachment/removal without tools. I figured I could put it on for highway trips and take it off for tooling around town. What do you think?

(Here's a link (http://www.nationalcycle.com/catalogue/FramesetDeflectorScreens.html) to the Deflector Screen. I'm looking at the DX model.)

[mthelmet]

I garee with what the other has said.
BNut before the AL Jell, try Simple Green soap, spray let stand for about 2 m,inutes then use your hose to wash off, repeat as needed.

[bprigge]

Joe. Yes! Thats the kind I was refering to. Maybe they are a little over a
foot high. I have one for summer riding. I run a Pacifico fairing with lowers
for early spring and fall. It adds about a month on both ends of the riding season. Its plenty ugly though! (the Pacifico fairing). Bruce

[lkchris]

Surge at 4K rpm is one or more torn carb diaphragms.

They're an every 2 yrs replacement item.

[pmdave]

Welcome to the wonderful world of airheads. The bad news is that you have to do certain maintenance items regularly. The good news is that you can futz with your airhead and enjoy the simplicity. Parts are only beginning to dry up, and lots of items can be substituted.

Yes, rebuild the carbs. With today's corrosive fuel, consider changing to the Bing alcohol-proof floats and bowls. (black plastic, not aluminum) If you aren't familiar with old BMWs, either send the carbs to the Bing man to get them rebuilt, or better yet, carefully overhaul yourself. Carb kits are available from BMW dealers.

Yes, redo the ignition. If the points are pitted, replace, grease the rubbing block, set gap, static time, and then time with an inductive strobe. Clean the terminals at the coils to ensure good contacts. And if the plug wires are old and brittle, consider replacing them. You can use silicone jacketed copper core plug wire from your local auto store. And NGK 500 ohm plug caps (from your local Japanese bike shop) are reasonably priced and work as good as the original big rubber blobs.

Yep, torque the heads, set the valves, go for a run, and then check compression. The latest BMW valve clearance spec is .008" ex and .006" in, but you can set the intakes for .005" if you prefer. If compression is less than 100 lbs. you should think about a valve job soon. If you need to know how to check compression, ask.

With rebuilt carbs, ignition tuned, and valves set, it should start easily and purr.

Depending on the ozone level of your part of the world, you may need to replace certain rubber parts, including fork boots and U joint boot.

Later, when you're feeling energetic, think about a clutch spline lube, rear drive spline lube, and wheel bearing lube. Mostly a matter of time, not money.

Owners News has regular columns on airhead maintenance that provides all the details, photos, and tricks.

pmdave. :thumb

[bmwmick]

Thanks, Flash. I'll do a little investigatin' on your suggestions.

Joe,
Bob Fleischer has a GREAT Airhead site here:
http://home.jps.net/~snowbum/techindex.htm
You should also give some thought to joining the
Airheads: http://www.airheads.org/


Nevermind :banghead

[jmerlino]

Yes, rebuild the carbs. With today's corrosive fuel, consider changing to the Bing alcohol-proof floats and bowls. (black plastic, not aluminum) If you aren't familiar with old BMWs, either send the carbs to the Bing man to get them rebuilt, or better yet, carefully overhaul yourself. Carb kits are available from BMW dealers.


Yeah, this definitely needs to be done. The right side carb has a sticky float valve and sometimes when I open the petcocks, it likes spit fuel all over the place.


Yes, redo the ignition. If the points are pitted, replace, grease the rubbing block, set gap, static time, and then time with an inductive strobe. Clean the terminals at the coils to ensure good contacts. And if the plug wires are old and brittle, consider replacing them. You can use silicone jacketed copper core plug wire from your local auto store. And NGK 500 ohm plug caps (from your local Japanese bike shop) are reasonably priced and work as good as the original big rubber blobs.


Unnecessary, I think. This model has an electronic ignition timer, and the (indy) dealer who sold it to me said that he replaced the unit for me. Starting is generally not a problem.


Yep, torque the heads, set the valves, go for a run, and then check compression. The latest BMW valve clearance spec is .008" ex and .006" in, but you can set the intakes for .005" if you prefer. If compression is less than 100 lbs. you should think about a valve job soon. If you need to know how to check compression, ask.


Also needs to be done.

I think I'm going to let Max BMW have it and do a 10,000 mile service on it. This should clear up most of that stuff, shouldn't it?

[manicmechanic]

As someone who maintains my own bikes, along with those of other people, I usually take my bikes to a dealer every few years and tell them to "pretend it's your bike, and go over it in that fashion." Another set of eyes can be a good thing.