K 100 Shifting concerns [Archive]

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roy

03-30-2005, 07:54 AM

On my 85 K100 I occasionally have trouble getting this bike into fifth gear. It almost seems like the gears will not mesh as if one of them is not turning similar to trying to shift into 1st while sitting still.

Some back ground and symptoms:
1) I pulled the transmission to lube the clutch splines. Did not dismantle the transmission or clutch assembly.
2) Clutch does not grab or slip during use. Shifting first through fourth is smooth.
3) It always comes out of fourth gear smoothly but will not go into fifth. It takes considerable (in my opinion) force to get the bike into fifth when this happens.
4) Once in fifth gear it never jumps out of gear.

Trouble shooting I have tried:
1) Double checked oil level in transmission.
2) Double checked oil is 80-90W GLI 5 spec.
3) Put bike on center stand in garage. With bike idling tried shifting through the gears. Some times smoothly into fifth, some times not. Note: When doing this if I pulled the clutch and wait, the rear wheel stops spinning so I know the clutch is not dragging.
4) I double-checked that the exposed cable length is correct.
5) I have tried shifting while driving at different RPM’s and there does not seem to be any noticeable sweet spot that I have found.

Is this a carry over from the oil-heads? I have read some articles on the shifting problems some them seemed to suffer from.

Any suggestions or thoughts on this or is it normal so quit worrying and drive?

Thanks

GSTom

03-30-2005, 08:27 AM

Roy, my '88 K100 does exactly as you describe, and has done so for the 20,000 or so miles I have owned it (currently has 62,500 on it). If I shift at a higher RPM from 4th to 5th (around 5,000) it seems to be better. Also if I pre-load the shift lever by putting a just little toe pressure on it before pulling the clutch lever, it seems to snick into 5th better. After a time you do this subconsciously.
I switch back and forth between riding a R100GS and the K-bike, and it happens worse after I have been riding the GS and the K-bike has been sitting. After a few miles on the K I get the knack of making smooth shifts back. YMMV. I look forward to others weighing in with their experience.

Bruce_C

03-30-2005, 08:57 AM

Roy
When you changed the trans. oil was there much grit on the magnetic drain plug?
When I first got my '85K100RT (had 37,250mi. now 55,800 in 14 mos.) the shifting was "notchy" and the drain plug was loaded with grit. I flushed (100mi. rides) it several times with 90wt. dino oil and lastly switched to Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic (i stayed away from 80-140wt.).
Trans. action has been first rate ever since. It is also a lot quieter.
I also change the gear oil in the trans. and rear drive every other oil change (or every 6,000mi.) as a part of regular maintance.
Bruce C :)

roy

03-30-2005, 09:45 AM

When you changed the trans. oil was there much grit on the magnetic drain plug?
When I first got my '85K100RT (had 37,250mi. now 55,800 in 14 mos.) the shifting was "notchy" and the drain plug was loaded with grit.

Drain Plug was clean no grit. Mileage is 43,000.

I am using dino oil.

bikerfish1100

03-30-2005, 09:57 AM

trade over to synth. really no need to change fluid every 6K, but you could if you like beating up the environment and your wallet that extra little bit.

you said you tried different rpms as shift points. what kind of variations did you try? i have never met a beemer (in 25 yrs of riding them) that did not much prefer to shift above 5k on a vigorous acceleration.

rbowen02

03-30-2005, 11:16 AM

roy

03-30-2005, 12:40 PM

you said you tried different rpms as shift points. what kind of variations did you try? i have never met a beemer (in 25 yrs of riding them) that did not much prefer to shift above 5k on a vigorous acceleration.

Bikerfish @ 5k in 4th gear I would have the local constable standing by my side way to often.

I tried in ranges between 2 & 4 normally shift around 3500.

It really didn't seem to make much difference in those ranges.

roy

03-30-2005, 12:46 PM

Hello,
I don't know if this is related or not (I apologize for bad netiquette if it is...I'm new), but I have a difference of opinion with friend of mine about skipping 1st gear. I would keep our respective opinions anonymous in case I'm wrong, but I say that skipping first gear and starting out in 2nd gear is fine (I've done it for years). My friend says it's bad for the transmission and I have just been lucky and eventually I will regret not going through first gear...even if it is 2 seconds before I shift out of first into second. Who's right?
Thanks,
Ron :dunno

Ron,

Starting out in second will potentially put more wear on the clutch plate itself but unless you are dumping the clutch for hole shots it should have no effect on tranny life.

Side note: pick-up trucks with 4-speeds had what was known as granny low. This was almost never used and they lived forever. Farm tractors almost never are started out in low and they are almost always under load.

there is my opionion for what it is worth.

deilenberger

04-01-2005, 11:54 AM

As others have mentioned:

1. Preload the lever before pulling the clutch in (slight pressure upwards with your toe)

2. Synthetic gear lube - I prefer BMW's 90W-140 - it works well and isn't terribly expensive. It is particulary good when the transmission gets hot, which is when mine became knotchy to shift

3. Speed matching - may help

But - there is also a known problem with the early K bike transmissions. The shift drum wasn't properly hardened and can wear, causing these sort of problems. Doing 1, 2 & 3 should help slow down or eliminate additional wear.

Hopefully what happened to my '85 K transmission won't happen to yours (at the Trenton MOA rally - I was WAY out in the boonies, when during a shift the transmission locked into a false neutral. I was finally able to force it into 3rd, and rode back to the rally in 3rd - about 50 miles.)

Best,