Oil Drain Bolt Torque?

[TZOLK]

On an '05 GS?? The Bottom 23mm Drain bolt torque?

[TZOLK]

Thanks!! Does that apply towards an '05 F650GS also? I didnt see the model listed.

[sgborgstrom]

The good faqmiesters over at f650.com say 40nm on the F650GS...I'd doubt your '05 is much different.

Very good write up on the whole oil-change process here: http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/gsoc.htm

Steve

[GlobalRider]

On an '05 GS?? The Bottom 23mm Drain bolt torque?

23mm? That is a strange size and quite big for the hex size of a drain bolt.

Are you sure it isn't 17mm or 19mm?

I'm not familiar with the F650 other than I think it has oil in the frame and maybe extra drain plugs. Is there a drain plug in the engine and the frame?

[maggie1]

23mm? That is a strange size and quite big for the hex size of a drain bolt.

Are you sure it isn't 17mm or 19mm?

I'm not familiar with the F650 other than I think it has oil in the frame and maybe extra drain plugs. Is there a drain plug in the engine and the frame?

He's referring to the GS, not the Classic. They are very different in some ways.

[lorazepam]

Tighten till it strips, then back off a quarter turn.

[dlearl476]

Tighten till it strips, then back off a quarter turn.

Sadly, that's exactly what a lot of BMW tech's do, and never let on that they did it. Todd, I'd say spend a couple of hours cruising the FAQs over on www.f650.com. I'm a big believer in proper torque, but I do oil drain plugs by feel and BARELY enough to keep them from leaking. The fact that there is a factory part number for F650 drain plug repair speaks volumes. I think 40nm is WAY high for a steel plug in an aluminum case, even if it is 23 mm. I would suspect 10-12 nm would work just fine.
Then again, my F650 is an Aprilia built <'99. YMMV.

[GlobalRider]

Tighten till it strips, then back off a quarter turn.

That is what separates a craftsman from your local shop mechanic. I do my own work for that reason.

[PGlaves]

It helps to always think about what the faster is and does. A drain plug isn't holding anything in except itself. Hefty clamping force is not required. It is a big plug in a big hole so the oil will drain quickly. For all it is holding onto the bike a 4mm (or smaller) capscrew would be more than sufficient. It does not need to be gorrilla tight like a wheel bolt, head bolt, or frame bolt which is actually holding big parts of the bike together with 8mm or 10mm threads.

If you use a new crush washer and a short wrench (I use about a 4" wrench on all plugs) you can easily feel the washer flatten, and when it has the plug is plenty tight to keep itself from falling out.

Paul Glaves

[dano]

I never torque drain plugs bolts......PERIOD. They're not a stressed fastener.


Hand tighten only! :thumb

[Chickenman_26]

23mm? That is a strange size and quite big for the hex size of a drain bolt.

Are you sure it isn't 17mm or 19mm?Yes, he's sure. Matter of fact, it's 24mm. And the recommended torque is 40nm.

[rreynold6]

If you check with the FAQs at F650.com, you will find that stripped drain plugs are a "fairly" common occurance on the F650. Because of the vibration of the Rotax single many people do overtighten the plugs and strip them. Quite a few 650 riders including myself, (I've owned two F650s including my current "02 GS) have addressed the insecurity about the plug backing out by drilling the plug and safety wiring it. It takes away the temptation to overtighten the plug. Just FWIW, I also safety wire the master link on the chain as do some other F650 riders. While the F650 is unbelievably smooth for a big bore single, it WILL vibrate things loose. My drain plug is one thing I don't want to lose.

Rick