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View Full Version : front springs-Progessive or Works


snowcat
03-12-2005, 02:24 PM
Has anyone tried both the progressives and Works?
I just bought a used Works rear shock and want to upgrade the front springs also.
Works springs cost more but are threy better?
Would they "work" better since I'm using a Works in the bacK?
Dave
88 K75C

deilenberger
03-13-2005, 10:59 AM
Has anyone tried both the progressives and Works?
I just bought a used Works rear shock and want to upgrade the front springs also.
Works springs cost more but are threy better?
Would they "work" better since I'm using a Works in the bacK?
Dave
88 K75C

There is a difference (I've had both, several times..)

My current bike has Works in it. Mostly because I got a $100 gift certificate for Works at a rally.. but that's not the only reason.

If you're willing to spend a bit of time playing with the cross-over point adjuster on the Works springs - you can fine tune the springs to exactly how you want them. Since I have a Wilbers in the back, I thought it would be worth the time to do this.

With the Progressives - which are progressively wound - you have no control over the spring rate. It increases as the springs are compressed, so it starts out quite soft and gets progressively stiffer. This is good for small bump, but not ideal for large ones - the springs tend to really stiffen up on the large ones to the point they almost feel solid.

With the Works - you have two spring rates, with an adjustable crossover point (the tubing inside the top spring). The soft spring is a fairly short one, and goe above the stiffer spring. Inside the soft spring is a piece of tubing - which comes in 3 lengths. The soft spring will compress UNTIL it is the length of the tubing, at which point it becomes solid and all spring force goes to the long stiffer spring - which is linear (equal spring force until it "binds" up, which won't happen since the forks would be fully compressed before that happens.)

The Progressive tends to dive quite a bit under braking, the Works does also - but only for a short distance before the top spring has crossed over to the bottom spring. The crossover point is adjustable by replacing the tubing inside the top spring. It takes on my K75S - about 15 minutes to exchange the tubing. I played with mine, and found I liked the middle length tubing the best. Good combination of small bump absorbtion, combined with resistance to dive after an initial 2" of dive.

The Progressive is put it in and forget about it since there is no real adjustment available (aside from initial preload) - the Works requires a bit more work to optimize - but IMHO is worth it.

Whew - longer answer than you probably wanted.. :)

snowcat
03-13-2005, 12:19 PM
I also think the extra money's worth it.
Good advise again as usual
Thanks again
Dave
88K75C