Side stand switch

[85343]

I have a 1995 R1100RSL. I would like to change the side stand switch to the RTP model which allows starting the engine with the side stand down. I remember seeing a parts list a few years ago. I can't locate the list. MAX BMW thinks it requires the switch and a wire harness. Max couldn't find the parts list either. Does anybody know what parts are required?

Thanks

Kurt

[brando]

Kurt,

Try this article. It's from the IBMWR website.

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/run_on_sidestand/sidestand_start.shtml

Bob Randolph
Ann Arbor, MI

[MCMXCIVRS]

I just wired in a relay myself. Total cost $0, since I had the relay and the wire in my toolbox all ready, but even buying one at the auto parts store has got to be cheaper than the BMW parts. I tied into the neutral light wire to close the relay and bypass the side stand switch. It works like a charm, all saftey features still intact, plus able to run the engine on the side stand.

[alien_hitchhiker]

I have come so close to disabling that side stand switch, it really is a PITA. I'm stopped every time though by this visual image of myself riding off with the sidestand down (again). BMW put that thing there for fools like me.
Steve-O

[85343]

I hadn't thought about a relay. Great idea. I spent $3.69 on a universal relay and wired it in parallel with the side stand switch. Works like a charm. Runs with the side stand down unless it is put in gear.

Thanks

[dzimbric]

My 2004 RT will run on the side stand provided the bike is in neutral. This must be something that was addressed by the factory on later models. You may just need to review the RT wiring diagram. If the neutral switch was in parallel with the side stand switch it would allow the bike to run with the sidestand down, provided the bike is in neutral.

[alien_hitchhiker]

Aaah! I'm begining to see.
So, the conversion still protects from self inflicted injury. Clicking into gear with the sidestand down will cut-off the engine. Hmm. This makes the conversion sound very worthwhile. I'm definitely going to take a look at this. It would be so nice to let the bike warm up for a minute in cold weather without having to put it on the centerstand.
Steve-O

[PMGbmw]

I drove off twice on my 96 with the stand down (previous owner disabled switch) and got lucky both times so I reconnected it back to the factory way. I would like to tie it into being in gear or not, how did you two above wire it so that it works in N but shuts off in gear? Can you draw up a diagram? Thanks.

[manicmechanic]

Check out the Internet Riders R1100 tech area. There is a thread with description and pix.

[CanadianGS]

Does anyone know if running an oilhead on a sidestand creates any oil circulation (or lack there of) issues? :dunno

[kbasa]

Our R1100S and our R1150R will both idle on the sidestand as delivered from the factory. I doubt there are oil circulation issues.

[bmwmick]

Does anyone know if running an oilhead on a sidestand creates any oil circulation (or lack there of) issues? :dunno

It will cause no problem at all, the factory made it standard in 2003 or so.

Mick

PS I just finished wiring a relay into my sidestand today. Very easy with a
Bosch relay. Starts and idles on the sidestand and kills the engine if I
shift to any gear.

[BubbaZanetti]

Our R1100S and our R1150R will both idle on the sidestand as delivered from the factory. I doubt there are oil circulation issues.


i was gonna say, i can't immagine the guy that rode my bike 4,000 miles in 5 years before i bought it started the bike enough to care about such a mod

neutral engaged - bike runs w/sidestand down

[110997]

Any pictures of the modifications? I'm interested in removing the switch, but don't want to add another relay (don't want something else that can break) is it as simple as closing the circuit?

Derek

[scjack]

Yep, just close the circuit.

[Xaque]

It will cause no problem at all, the factory made it standard in 2003 or so.

Mick

PS I just finished wiring a relay into my sidestand today. Very easy with a
Bosch relay. Starts and idles on the sidestand and kills the engine if I
shift to any gear.

Hmm... no oil circulation problem, but the manual does clearly state not to run the oilhead without riding it around. It warns that it will create an overheating situation...

Now... the manual says alot of things...

And I did watch a certain professional BMW stunt rider let his 1200GS idle for quite a long time without much care...

just my $.02

-Xaque-

[breyfogle]

Yep, just close the circuit.

Or in less technical lingo, cut both wires anywhere easily accessable, twist together the two bare ends, wrap with black tape, done !!

[flash412]

Or in less technical lingo, cut both wires anywhere easily accessable, twist together the two bare ends, wrap with black tape, done !!Two years later, black tape adhesive tape fails and tape falls off, twisted wires touch frame, blow fuse, motor dies (or refuses to start).

For a more permanent solution, solder the two wires together and then cover the joint with heat-shrink tubing.

[lorazepam]

Two years later, black tape adhesive tape fails and tape falls off, twisted wires touch frame, blow fuse, motor dies (or refuses to start).

For a more permanent solution, solder the two wires together and then cover the joint with heat-shrink tubing.


slide the heat shrink tubing on before soldering the wires or you will do it twice.

[AntonLargiader]

Any pictures of the modifications? I'm interested in removing the switch, but don't want to add another relay (don't want something else that can break)...Derek

The CHP modification uses all BMW parts, plugs right into the existing harness. You don't want a relay... your bike depends on a lot of relays already, and they basically don't break. It's more expensive to buy the CHP harness, but much easier to install if you aren't deft with electronics.

[flash412]

slide the heat shrink tubing on before soldering the wires or you will do it twice."There is no better lesson than the knowledge one gains when one f#$%'s up." - Wayne Miller

[breyfogle]

Two years later, black tape adhesive tape fails and tape falls off, twisted wires touch frame, blow fuse, motor dies (or refuses to start).

For a more permanent solution, solder the two wires together and then cover the joint with heat-shrink tubing.

Electrical tape is a whole lot better than masking tape, duct tape or Scotch tape !! Not everyone knows how to solder or use heatshrink-tubing.

[flash412]

Not everyone knows how to solder or use heatshrink-tubing.Them whats don't are the folks with NO binniz modifying their electrical systems unaided.

[The_Veg]

So which is worse, that switch, or just spring-loading the stand to retract when you take the bike off the stand, a la Airhead? I rather like the Airhead method. One less thing to do with my feet as I'm getting ready to start rolling.
My old Brick had a goofy linkage to the clutch mechanism that either retracted the stand when the clutch was pulled, or kept the clutch from being pulled (and therefore prevented starting to be allowed due to the clutch switch not closing) depending or whether or not the bike was on the stand.
But back to the thread, I'd rather fake out the switch than buy a bunch of precious factory parts to solve the problem. Less parts, less things to go wrong, etc.

[lorazepam]

Veg, The ST I have has that stupid retracting sidestand. I sure wish I could put the sidestand down comfortably without having to get off the bike. I would love to have a stand like the RRS has vs that stupid spring loaded pos.

[lorazepam]

"There is no better lesson than the knowledge one gains when one f#$%'s up." - Wayne Miller

Do it a couple hundred times and you will forget once or twice, trust me.

[The_Veg]

The stand issue might be a peculiarity to different models. I hear much more griping than praising about self-retracting stands on older Airhead designs. Mine is prefectly easy to deploy from the saddle- maybe it's one of those things they improved right before killing off the Airhead. I've heard also the the frame mine uses (same frame as the GS of that year) is smaller than the /7 frame- I don't know this for sure, but maybe that means that the stand mount is closer to the saddle.
Point being, a well-placed and well-designed self-retracting stand seems ideal. That, or not putting a switch on the thing and actually allowing the rider some points for having intelligence.

[manicmechanic]

I used a short piece of wire and two male bullet connectors, crimped to the wire, then used as a jumper. Unplug the switch, attach the jumper \, no problem. You won't have to do any repairs later, just remove the jumper and reattach the switch plug.

[breyfogle]

Veg, The ST I have has that stupid retracting sidestand. I sure wish I could put the sidestand down comfortably without having to get off the bike. I would love to have a stand like the RRS has vs that stupid spring loaded pos.

I'm not familiar with the ST, but on the /6 I had, the spring loaded retraction "feature" could be eliminated in about 5 minutes. With the stand in the down position, if the LH engine mounting bolt that also holds the sidestand retraction spring attach gizmo is loosened and then retightened, the attach gizmo rotates just enough so that the spring tension no longer retracts the stand.