KGT Wheel Removal (2009)

[Semper_Fi]

The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.

Lastly, please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner. Most Auto Parts stores and service stations will accept used oil and lubricants, tires and batteries, please check for your local availability.

This article, text and photos are Copyright of the individual authors and the BMW MOA, any copying or redistributing is permitted only by prior written authorization.

[Semper_Fi]

This DIY will cover removing and installing the Front and Rear Wheel Assembly on a 2009 KGT 1300.

Tools


T20 for the ABS Sensor Bolt
T30 for the Fender Mounting Bolts
T45 for the Caliper Bolts
3/8" drive torquewrench
Front Axle Socket - I use a Marc Parnes tool*
19mm wrench or socket to use on the Axle Socket tool
Front Wheel Stand - I use a PitBull Stand*


* Not affiliated with manufacturer just utilize their products

[Semper_Fi]

Put the bike on centerstand
Remove front fender
Remove Calipers
Remove ABS Sensor
Remove Right Side (Throttle Pinch Bolt)
Loosen quick release axle
Lift front wheel with front stand
Remove axle
Remove Wheel Assembly

[Semper_Fi]

So let's start - put the bike on the centerstand.

Shop Tip - if you plan to take both tires off, and you plan to use a PitBull lift, you will want to remove the rear tire first.

[Semper_Fi]

Using a T30 remove the indicated Fender Bolts (Throttle side)

[Semper_Fi]

Same with the Clutch Side

[Semper_Fi]

The pull straight out, the full fender comes off - set aside

[Semper_Fi]

Fender off

[Semper_Fi]

Unclip the ABS wire harness from the brake line. 2 locations

[Semper_Fi]

Harness removed

[Semper_Fi]

Using a T45 remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts

[Semper_Fi]

To remove the caliper you need to spread the pads a little - this is easily done by twisting the caliper slowly as your are pulling it off.

As you pull back twist to push the pads apart a little.

DO NOT ACTIVATE THE BRAKES AS THIS WILL PUSH THE BRAKE PADS OUT

[Semper_Fi]

Caliper removed, now onto the other side

NOTE - I left the caliper hanging because I was only going to be away for one day as the tires where being swapped - if you want feel free to support the caliper if so desired

[Semper_Fi]

Using a T45 remove the other 2 Caliper mounting bolts

[Semper_Fi]

Using the same twisting technique start removing the clutch side caliper

[Semper_Fi]

Calipers are now removed, next is the ABS Sensor

[Semper_Fi]

Using a T20 torx remove the ABS Mounting bolt

[Semper_Fi]

Once the bolt is removed you can pull out the ABS Sensor

[Semper_Fi]

This image shows the sensor fully removed.

It is important to note its position when you are lifting the front end to avoid pinching or damaging the wire/sensor.

[Semper_Fi]

Please note that the way the PitBull lift supports the bike it impeeds access to the pinch bolt you need to remove.

So prior to lifting the bike I loosened the pinch bolt and loosened the quick release axle and then lifted the bike.

Getting ready to place the bike lift under the fork legs.

[Semper_Fi]

Using a T45 loosen the right (Throttle) side pinch bolt ONLY.

DO NOT LOOSEN OR REMOVE THE CLUTCH SIDE PINCH BOLT AS THIS AFFECTS THE ALIGNMENT OF THE WHEEL

[Semper_Fi]

Use an axle removal tool to remove the axle.

This tool from Marc Parnes is used in conjuction with a 19mm wrench or socket

[Semper_Fi]

As I did not want to loosen the axle when the wheel was in the air, I am breaking it free here before the lift.

[Semper_Fi]

Prior to lifting make sure the ABS Sensor and Wire are clear of the lift points where the wheel stand will contact the fork legs indicated by the green arrow.

[Semper_Fi]

While loosening/removing the quick release axle - support the wheel assembly to aid in the removal process.

[Semper_Fi]

Unscrew and remove the axle.

[Semper_Fi]

Pull the wheel off - pay attention to the rotors and fork tubes, it will be a little snug but will come out.

[Semper_Fi]

This is the clutch side view of the spacer in the fork which should NOT have its pinch bolt loosened or removed

[Semper_Fi]

After a day's rest my new tires were mounted on the bike.

Two things to be aware of, most tires are directional, meaning they need to be mounted in a specifc manner to maximize the thread design.

The is a mark on the tire that indicates how is should be mounted on the bike.

Shown below is one such mark - green cricle highlight

The other thing to confirm directionality is that the ABS ring of the wheel goes on the Clutch side

[Semper_Fi]

Shown here is the tire in place, but not secured.

A 5 step process, of which shown is 1 thru 4


Insert tire in the correct orientation in between the fork legs

Work the brake disks and ABS ring into position without damaging the disks, ring or fork legs. (Not difficult to do just need to go slow and be carefull)

Once the hub center is in line to the axle placement, lift the wheel up to meet the axle as it is being passed thru the left (Throttle) side fork leg - Green Arrow

Manually turn the axle to ensure proper thread engagement

Tighten to spec

[Semper_Fi]

Tighten the axle until hand tight and this will be enough to support the wheel assembly and the bike so that you can torque the axle to spec after the bike is lowered off the stand.

[Semper_Fi]

Now torque the axle to its specified value of 50Nm (37 ft-lbs)

[Semper_Fi]

Tighten the loosened pinch bolt and torque to 19Nm (14 ft-lbs)

[Semper_Fi]

Install ABS Sensor, ensuring proper routing of sensor wiring

[Semper_Fi]

Secure ABS sensor with mounting bolt

[Semper_Fi]

Working from the clutch side install clutch side caliper.

Come in at and angle and "wrap" the caliper in place onto the brake disc

[Semper_Fi]

Install the caliper bolts and thread them in confirming proper thread engagement.

[Semper_Fi]

Torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)

[Semper_Fi]

Attach ABS Sensor wire clips onto brake line

[Semper_Fi]

Repeat caliper install with the throttle side caliper, again coming in from an angle to mount the caliper

[Semper_Fi]

Ensure proper thread engagement of the caliper bolts and torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)

[Semper_Fi]

Prior to installing the fender back on you may want to check the threads as mine were slightly corroded.

I chased the threads with an M6 x1.0 Tap

[Semper_Fi]

Mount the fender.

[Semper_Fi]

CRITICAL FINAL STEP

You need to pump the front brake lever to set the caliper pucks back position onto the discs for the brakes to work correctly

Shown below is the very first pump action - as you can see the brake lever is at its normal position

[Semper_Fi]

Now the lever is pumped and reaches all the way to the bar.

That is why you do this in the garage and not on the road!!

[Semper_Fi]

After a few pumps the pads are set in the front caliper and you will have proper lever action to safely activate the brakes.

[Semper_Fi]

Removal process:


Remove Exhaust pipe cover guard
Loosen Exhaust clamp
Remove Exhaust Hanger Bolt
Remove exhaust
Remove Wheel


Starting with the Exhaust pipe cover guard use a T25 to remove

[Semper_Fi]

There is a tongue and groove interface feature on the back side of the guard

[Semper_Fi]

Loosen Exhaust clamp using a T45 torx

[Semper_Fi]

After you have loosened the clamp you need to remove the Exhaust hanger bolt.

CAUTION - ensure you are supporting the exhaust as this is the last mechanical securing item

[Semper_Fi]

SHOP TIP - After you remove the muffler you will have the exhaust system open - to prevent any foreign material to fall in you may want to stuff a rag to prevent such an occurrence.

[Semper_Fi]

Put the bike in gear and remove the wheel bolts using a T-50

[Semper_Fi]

The replacement process for the rear wheel is as follows


Install wheel onto rear hub
Install Wheel Lugs and torque to spec
Install muffler
Mount hanger
Tighten exhaust clamp
Install exhaust cover shield



IMPORTANT NOTE - The Wheel bolts DO NOT get any lubricant or locking material applied to them, they go in dry, they come out dry

[Semper_Fi]

Below shows the tire mounted onto the rear hub.

The wheel bolts have been put in, hand tight, ensuring the wheel is properly seated then torque as outlined.

The torquing sequence is a diagonal pattern shown below:

1 to 2

2 to 3

3 to 4

4 to 5

Tighten to 60Nm (44 ft-lbs)

[Semper_Fi]

The next step is mounting the muffler, it is a two step process.

The first mouting is the muffler onto the exhaust opening (Green arrow) and then swinging the muffler up onto the top mount location (Blue Arrow).

[Semper_Fi]

Mount the muffler handing bolt hand tight as you need to ensure that the muffler is properly spaced to the rear wheel.

[Semper_Fi]

Ensure that there is 10mm of spacing between the muffler and the rear wheel

Shop Tip - by having the muffler hanger and muffler clamp hand snug - you can position the muffler to be in the proper alignment before completely tightening.

[Semper_Fi]

Once the spacing is set tighten the muffler clamp to 35Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Then tighten the muffler hanger to 22Nm (16 ft-lbs)

[Semper_Fi]

Done!!