Hard starting RT in the cold

[scottie boy]

My beloved R1150RT has approx. 16k and has been exceptionally reliable. That said, on a recent overnight trip to the mountains it sat outside all night with temperatures down into the 20's. In the morning, it took four or five tries to get it running and it sounded like crap for maybe 20 seconds until the oil started flowing. I know Boxers are cold natured but I was curious as to how I can prevent this. Would switching to a synthetic oil help or do I just have to put up with the jabs from my Yamaha riding buddies?

[RTRandy]

Tune up always helps. Are you pulling the idle lever up all the way and holding it there during start? ( Don't mean to sound insulting) I've been told not to give it any gas with the throttle lever pulled all the way up when starting. ( I used to do both) . I've also been told it's a good idea to leave the idle lever in the up posistion until you're showing one or two bars of heat on the temperature gauge before dropping it back down.

[ian408]

Has nothing to do with the idle lever. It's cold cranking.

It was in the 30's the other day when I started mine. It turns over very
slowly.

Ian

[bmwmick]

My beloved R1150RT has approx. 16k and has been exceptionally reliable. That said, on a recent overnight trip to the mountains it sat outside all night with temperatures down into the 20's. In the morning, it took four or five tries to get it running and it sounded like crap for maybe 20 seconds until the oil started flowing. I know Boxers are cold natured but I was curious as to how I can prevent this. Would switching to a synthetic oil help or do I just have to put up with the jabs from my Yamaha riding buddies?

Scottie,
Here's what works for me. I run Mobil 1 15-50 in my bikes year-round. Synthetic flows better in low temps.
When you try to start it, leave the throttle closed all the way and do NOT set the fast idle lever up until the engine catches then immediately set it to the first or second notch to keep it running. Since we have no real choke, the more you open the throttles, the leaner the mixture. With the throttle bodies closed all the way, the mixture is richer and the engine will be easier to start. The Motronic only knows if the air and oil is cold or hot. If it's cold, it sends a wider pulse to the injectors to provide a richer mixture for starting. If you add more air (by cracking the throttle bodies open either with the fast idle or the throttle) you lean the mixture.
This works well on my K1100 and my R1100. I've helped several riders start their bikes in sub-freezing temps and this routine always works.

[dbrick]

That's really interesting, Mick. It makes sense. I don't usually have much trouble starting the bike, but I will consciously adopt your plan the next cold morning I'm out there. (Not today. It's threatening rain for later and I've got bad back pain — a million excuses!)

[username]

i believe the battery has less power-producing capacity when it is very cold.

[dano]

Most definitely run full-synthetic oil in your bike.

I have a 2003 R150RT that I bought new. I was running MOBIL 1 15w/50 in it at 1200 miles, with the dealership's full blessing.

Full-synthetic handles both the cold and hot temps better than dino oil.

[hurricane]

bmwmick: Can't wait to try that advice on use (or non-use) of the fast idle on a cold start. Sometimes it does take me a couple of starts to make it fire up.

The only problem I have is remembering your advice until winter or the next trip. Our first "cold" day is still not here. T-shirts are still uniform of the day.

[bmwmick]

Yeh,
Rub it in :brow It's been in the high 20's recently here in sunny AZ. :clap

Mick :type

[BradfordBenn]

Yup, weather is weird. I was in Phoeniz for Monday and Tuesday and it was cold enough I had to wear a jacket. I am now in Denver and am walking around in short sleeve shirts. :dunno