Notchy final drive universal joint.

[mark from maine]

I just removed the final drive and U-joint from a 98 R1100 RT with 26K. Separated the U joint from the final drive and noticed that when rotating the rear half of the U- joint there is a slight notch at about the halfway point thru its path of travel. Is this normal or an indication that it is time to replace? Thanks,
Mark

[Dave_Faria]

I imagine there are driving habit "what ifs" that make a difference as to when the drive shaft fails. I checked mine for the 1st time at abt 30k miles and it was notchy. I just did a transmission spline lube at 75k miles and did the drive shaft splines as well. Since I still had wet grease at the drive shaft bearing seals and they seemed tight, but notchy, I'm choosing not to worry abt it.

2004 RT

[mark from maine]

Dave, Thanks for your reply. Yours was notchy at 30 K and mine at 26K. There must be others who have had a similar experience. Was wondering if others replaced the driveshaft and universal joint, ($691.82 !) or like you Dave just kept riding. Anybody care to comment?
Thanks,
Mark

[bikerfish1100]

at 77K i have not redone my driveshaft, but i do have some suggestions regarding eventual replacement.
1) i picked up a low mile (11K) used one for about $150. that's MUCH better than new at $600+ in my accounting book. it sits on the shelf, awaiting the time for transplant.
2) there are several outfits that will rebuild worn driveshafts (replacing the u-joints with zerk-fitted items). one in Cali (don't recall name, but i could find it if requested), and Bruno's in Canada (do a search, you'll find him) Either option is superior to another non-serviceable OEM unit, and either one costs far less than new (about $200 iirc, once 2way shipping is included)

[Dave_Faria]

I believe in spares also. I also have a spare drive shaft from the Beemer bone Yard. It has 14k on it and cost $200. If you like the bike and are going to keep it a long time you might want to pick up a few spares. My other BMW is 32 years old and a daily commuter. They will just go and go and go if you take care of them.

[mark from maine]

Thanks for your input Dave and Bikerfish. I just sent off an email to Brunu's to see about a repair.
Mark

[bikerfish1100]

you might want to contact these guys as well http://www.machineservice.com/

price is superior to Bruno's, and you don't have to mess with over the border stuff.

[Andy VH]

I replaced the driveshaft assembly on my 94 R1100RS at 115,000 miles, and yes it was notchy but still functional. I could sense the vibration at the footpegs. I got a low miles used driveshaft on ebay, and the matching rear u-joint from beemberboneyard, and installed it myself. Cost me about $125.

By the way, the driveshaft and u-joint from an 1150 will fit on the older R1100, as long as you replace both the driveshaft assembly and u-joint.

[jm1515]

you might want to contact these guys as well http://www.machineservice.com/

price is superior to Bruno's, and you don't have to mess with over the border stuff.
+1 on Machine Service.
Had my FD Ujoint back in less than a week, nicely rebuilt including a grease fitting....
Mine had a touch of notchiness at ~39300miles........

[Pierce]

I just had my u-joints rebuilt by Machine Sevice a couple of months ago. Turn around time was about 10 days and it cost me $300 for both of them! The notchyness that you have in the u-joint is not necessarily a bad thing right at the moment. It's just easier to move the u-joint at that point because that is where it operates the most. As long as there is no play/slop it is probably still good to go. The technician at machine Service explained that to me. But for the price I just told him to go ahead and rebuild them. It's for piece of mind for my upcoming trip to Salt lake City this May.

[mark from maine]

It's just easier to move the u-joint at that point because that is where it operates the most. As long as there is no play/slop it is probably still good to go

Thank you for that explanation. That describes mine perfectly. I will also give machine services a call.

Mark

[Happy Wanderer]

I have a (probably) dumb question. What exactly does "Notchy" mean? Anybody have photos they could share?

I've read about problems with drive shafts, U-joints and final drives on oilheads but I don't think any of these are particularly a problem on a 96 R1100RT. Am I correct? :ear

Since my bike has needed a starter, cylinders, pistons, rings, fuel pump and lots of tinkering due to surging so far with less than 40K miles on it so far, I might as well get ready for everything else! :doh

[bikerfish1100]

I've read about problems with drive shafts, U-joints and final drives on oilheads but I don't think any of these are particularly a problem on a 96 R1100RT. Am I correct? :ear



all of these areas are potential concerns on any/all oilheads. in fact, potential problems on any BMWs built with the paralever rear design- which first appeared in the 1980s. some models/years seem to be more prone to failures than others- but none are fully immune, nor are any fully guaranteed to experience a problem.
however; fretting and worrying about it as a likely catastrophe is not all that productive. best is to keep an eye on operations, inspect as possible (at time of tire changes, every few months check for pivot bearing wear, etc), repair or replace as necessary.

[mark from maine]

156357, "Notchy" was probably not an accurate description of what I felt. I will try again. When I rotate one half of the universal joint in one direction the resistance is less when the u joint is nearing the mid point of it's arc. There is no roughness. No actual notch area. No loose play at any of the connections. I have reinstalled it and am going to ride it this season. I may send it out for a rebuild next winter.
Mark