93R100RT tranny install

[Itchy]

Removed tranny for circlip correction. Moved engine forward and pulled tranny off.
Much work to get to that point. Was not thrilled with that method. Used a Clymers for guidance, yikes. Engine is back on mounts. Is it easier to drop the swing arm and install reconditioned tranny coming in from rear and leave engine on mounts. Any tips anyone could share on that. I'm not a mechanic but I thought this work(tranny removal/install) would be a good way to get know my bike on a whole new level.
Thanks :usa

[mneblett]

Is it easier to drop the swing arm and install reconditioned tranny coming in from rear and leave engine on mounts.
In short, yes -- and removing the battery tray is usually at least desirable (and often necessary). You'll need a 27 mm socket that had been turned down or ground down enough to fit within the frame hole around each swingarm locknut.

[dduelin]

I have only done it by disconnecting the swingarm and pulling it back so I can't compare that to moving the engine forward method.

[Manfred]

In short, yes -- and removing the battery tray is usually at least desirable (and often necessary). You'll need a 27 mm socket that had been turned down or ground down enough to fit within the frame hole around each swingarm locknut.

FYI, I found a half inch drive 27 mm socket at Ace hardware that fit nicely with no changes required.

[Itchy]

Thank you everyone for taking the time to share your insights.
They are helpful and appreciated.
Paul

[pmdave]

Yup, just onbolt the battery box, remove the swing arm studs, and pull the swing arm and final drive back for clearance.

If there is any evidence of engine oil seepage, this would be a good time to replace the rear main seal with the latest and greatest. If you pull the clutch, mark the position of the pieces so you get it back in the same balance. And stuff a rag temporarily in front of the crank to keep it from slipping forward. (or just be really careful to not push the crank forward and allow the inside thrust washer to fall off the pins.)

When reinstalling the repaired transmission, use some really good lube on the splines. (see guard dog lubricants for moly paste)

Line up the clutch as well as possible, and insert the transmission, but leave all the bolts just finger tight until you can run the engine and shake the transmission into alignment. THEN snug up the bolts.

When installing the clutch arm, consider using a bolt and nylock nut instead of the pin and clip. When the clip falls off, it typically allows the arm to break off the cast lugs, and you get to start ALL over again.

Take a good look at that rubber U joint boot before pulling the swing arm into position. If it's got any cracks, replace it. Do use new bolts (short, no lockwasher) securing the U-joint to the transmission output. Note that you can center the swingarm with the threaded pins. Put in a little preload before locking the big nuts.

If your swingarm plastic covers are loose, dab some silicone seal around the flange and glue it in.

Consider changing the location of the battery ground wire from the transmission vent bolt to the subframe. The vent bolt screws into aluminum threads, and is very easy to strip. All it needs to do is hold the speedo drive in place and vent the transmission.

pmdave

[beemerguru]

Moving the engine forward to remove the tranny is common for the pre-'70 models because the frame and engine had different dimensions..so it worked fairly easily. Post '69, it's a real PITA to try it..as you found out.

Going in from the rear with the right tools takes one person and maybe 1 to 1 1/2 hours...and no heavy slug of an engine to move around!

[Itchy]

pmdave,

That was some really in depth and practical advice.
Many thanks for taking the time to think it through and put it to paper.
Aces !

beemerguru - thanks as well for confirming some already good advice.

Springtime will be here before we know it
Safe ridin' all

paul

[Yarddog]

Ironically, I just put the tranny and engine back into the frame today...engine first, then tranny...waiting for the "special" lock washers to arrive to bolt the driveshaft to the tranny...or...not...

[Itchy]

Yarddog,

Snowbum, in his article titled Driveshaft, Bolts, Threads, Tools, Etc, had an interesting take on the bolts and lock washers for the flange connection. I mention it in case you were not aware of the considerations mentioned. Worth a read.
Good luck.

Paul

[Yarddog]

Thanks, Paul, I did just that...I appreciate the advice! Looks like Snowbum and I are on the same page, which means that he knows a HECK of a lot more than me, and I just happened to think it thru somewhere along those lines, if that makes sense!!! I'm gonna be using his 'good grunt' method of torquing them down, as I normally have a good feel in terms of evenness of torque...I'm not certain why the lock washers are 'special', but since Grade 5's and Grade 8's are both available locally in the correct size, I have some choices, unless I elect to wait for the 'special' ones to arrive...

I gotta say, there's probably more and better organized technical advice available on these airheads than there is on anything else I've had the pleasure to work on, including, but not limited to, Harleys, Chevy four wheel drives, Jeeps, flycasting, bass guitars, what have you...I mean, Snowbum's web site, and not just his by the way, is so FULL of info and pretty easy to get one's arms around!!!

Again, thanks for pointin' me there...

[20774]

YD -

I think Paul may have been referring to the use of long bolts with lockwashers. BMW went away from those quite a few years ago...there's a service bulletin to that effect. The issue was that the washers could fracture and fall way from the bolt, leaving the bolt effectively loose. Then it can loosen over time, with the other bolts having to share the load with potential for failure and/or loosening themselves.

The current approach is to use short bolts, blue loctite on clean/dry threads, and a good grunt as you indicated. Dealers may still have the long bolts with lock washers in stock. Steer clear of those.

[Yarddog]

YD -

I think Paul may have been referring to the use of long bolts with lockwashers. BMW went away from those quite a few years ago...there's a service bulletin to that effect. The issue was that the washers could fracture and fall way from the bolt, leaving the bolt effectively loose. Then it can loosen over time, with the other bolts having to share the load with potential for failure and/or loosening themselves.

The current approach is to use short washers, blue loctite on clean/dry threads, and a good grunt as you indicated. Dealers may still have the long bolts with lock washers in stock. Steer clear of those.

Thanks...I have the short fasteners installed, and all was well when I took it apart, so when the washers arrive, I'm good to go!!!

[20774]

Thanks...I have the short fasteners installed, and all was well when I took it apart, so when the washers arrive, I'm good to go!!!

I just realized I mistyped in my previous post...I've corrected it. You want the short bolts and no washers. You can't use the long bolts with no washers as the unthreaded portion of the bolt shank will likely prevent the bolt from reaching full torque and the protruding length of the longer fastener on the other side of the flange could impinge on the tranny output seal.