K1200lt drive noise

[KTHALIN]

I am new here. Was in Florida running back from Key's when it started to grunt and grown. Bikes in Naples. The grown with some small vibration was in sink with the roatation of the rear wheel. Gear lub up to proper level. Clutch slipping and gear lub leaking slightly from rear drive wheel mounting seal. The grawl was inconsistant and better some times then others. Looked at breakdown and see a damper in line, clutch plate in the middle of the motor, wondering what kind of job it is to tair down and repair. I live in MN and will be going down over christmas. Is there special tools need to get to the clutch for replacement?

[58058D]

From your description, it is possible you might have several issues, clutch and clutch slave, plus final drive. A groaning final drive is not a good sign.....Check the LT sites for info on LT final drives going bad and what the fix (replacement?) is. Clutch replacement is a doable job with the right tools and place to hoist the frame off the engine. Clymer manual is a must, as well as a buddy or two that is a decent mechanic and strong. Suggest you do a search on Clutch Replacement here in the Brick forum. Many threads over the years have dealt with this. Along with the slipping clutch is the question of Why? Failed seals in the 'dry' clutch housing area (from engine side or trans side...or due to a failed clutch slave cylinder?) I spent about $500 on a clutch and slave cyliner replacement job and took about 15 - 20 hours over a weekend or two. Many here can do one in 8 hours or less. Shop rate is about $1500-2000 parts and labor. Final drive? Again, see the LT specific sites that others with LTs can recommend. Good luck...

[roy]

The growling noise could be either worn tires or final drive bearing. To check for the bearing going bad put the bike on the center stand and grab the rear wheel at the 6:00 & 12:00 O'clock positions. Try and rock the wheel, if it moves your bearing is starting to go bad.

Second step, drain the final drive oil to see if you have metal flakes on the drain plug.

Slipping clutch:
Did the clutch seem spongy or did the fluid level in the clutch reservoir change? These are both signs that the clutch slave cylinder is failing or has failed. When it fails it will pump fluid onto your clutch disk.

I would get both problems identified before riding the bike any further.

Good Luck

Roy

[Polarbear]

I lost two FDs on a 2001 KLT. Both went around 25000 miles and never again after that. The wheel wiggle is the best test and a oil look see(drain) more often in a very clean oil pan. My clutch area! Well, the KLTs have NO relief hole for oil to escape the clutch housing, if it accumulates in there. I DRILLED a drain hole in mine, very small one eighth inch hole down there at the RIGHT place in the bottom of the clutch housing and let oil drip/escape the housing. My rear main seal had begun to leak EVER so slowly and I did not want it to fowl my clutch, so the hole definately did the job, letting the minute oil drip escape. Its a call you have to make, depending on your oil issue around the clutch. It worked for me and I did not have to do a clutch job/ seal replace for another 40000 miles. Its still running with new owner at 110000, still working fine with a slow oil seap from the rear main seal. A small rag, "out of sight", folded under there, collects any oil that may escape and off the rear wheel. It will save you having to do a BIG job ahead of its time. I know its a bandaide idea , but another idea thrown in for your pleasure:). Randy:thumb:usa

[PGlaves]

The hardest thing to diagnose are noises described by someone long distance.

But the the two things that come to mind are final drive bearing and drive shaft universal joints.

Either can often be diagnosed by putting the bike on the centerstand and manipulating the wheel. Check for wobble in the wheel by grasping the wheel at opposite sides and see if you can feel any play in the wheel. And with the gear box in neutral rotate the wheel, listening and feeling for any gritchiness as you turn it.

[KTHALIN]

Ordered a cylmer and armed with tool box. Is there a BEST place to order parts? Looking for fast turnaround in shipping. That means that they have the stuff in stock. Suggestion welcome.

[roy]

Not sure where you are located but I would try my local dealers first. You said you was in Florida from your original post and I believe there are a couple good dealerships. Not sure of there exact location. Daytona, Orlando maybe...

If you want quick delivery do NOT use Chicago BMW. Quick to them is some time next year.

Good luck

Roy

[98lee]

The grown with some small vibration was in sink




I knew the LTs came with EVERYTHING, but what year did they add a sink to them? The GW guys are going to be SO jealous.:stick




:dance:dance:dance

[roy]

I knew the LTs came with EVERYTHING, but what year did they add a sink to them? The GW guys are going to be SO jealous.:stick




:dance:dance:dance

Well.... The top box is shaped sort of like a sink:thumb

[KTHALIN]

Reviewed the manual and it looks doable to repair drive system in the drive way but the clutch looks like you need a hospital as to hoist up the frame to get at it. The special tools are like most as they want to make it sound like you have to spend the dollar to get the job done. Always a way around it to get to the same result. I will let you guys know what you need to pack in your sink to do the job on the road.