View Full Version : Fuel Pump--R1150R
Acejones
12-05-2009, 01:10 PM
Fuel pump on '03 RR quit. I swapped relays (horn and fuel pump), still nothing, checked fuse (good). Power to both fuse and relay good. I bought the Beemer Boneyard fuel pump and before I put it all together I decided to put 12v directly across terminals; nada, nothing. Am I missing something here ? Shouldn't the pump work when I do that ?
I don't want to finish the assembly until I understand this.
HELP !
jingdog
12-05-2009, 01:46 PM
You mean 12v on the terminals of the old pump (or the new one?) If the pump doesnt work with directl 12 volts to the terminals its shot or you got the polarity mixed up!
PGlaves
12-05-2009, 01:55 PM
You mean 12v on the terminals of the old pump (or the new one?) If the pump doesnt work with directl 12 volts to the terminals its shot or you got the polarity mixed up!
I'm not sure on the Oilhead pumps - never needed to try it - but on the classic K bike pumps reversed polarity spins it in the opposite direction from normal. Useful tip for dislodging crud.
Acejones
12-05-2009, 02:11 PM
I've tried it on both the old pump and the new one and nothing happens. How could I have two bad pumps ?
Acejones
12-05-2009, 02:27 PM
Update ! Evidently I had a poor connection on my jumper. When wired directly the pump does in fact workand whats worse, so does the old one. I don't know what to do now. Is it possible that something else is causing the pump not to work when installed in the tank ?
jingdog
12-05-2009, 02:29 PM
Hmm hard to believe a new pump could be bad! But what other way is there to make it work except by putting 12v across the terminals? Whats your 12v source?
jingdog
12-05-2009, 02:32 PM
Update on update. Wire the pump into the relay and see if it works now. If not it could be you were wrong that the relay was OK. Also could be a fault in the wiring from the ignition switch to the relay. Basically, you want the pump in the circuit (like it would be if it were in the tank assembled) to work when you turn on the key.
Acejones
12-05-2009, 03:15 PM
Jingdog,
Thanks very much for following this. I understand what you are telling me, but I don't believe I understand how to do it. What about the plug that plugs into the tank ? There are three wires, Brown (ground) and a green and yellow wire and a white wire with a Blue (or it could be black stripe). Is there a way to test it and if so, how? It seems that would tell me if powere is getting to the pump.
Thanks and please stay with me on this,
Dennis
PGlaves
12-05-2009, 04:25 PM
A little, but not a lot of help because I don't have a wiring diagram.
The three wires are:
Ground = Brown
Power to the Pump = ?
Wire to the Fuel Level Sender = ?
You need to test for power for a few seconds, key on, kill switch flipped on, in neutral or sidestand up, on the wire bringing power to the pump.
I presume you have the plate out of the tank. Just plug the connector to the plate into its socket at the frame and test at the terminals that connect to the pump motor. Do the test between the +12v pump lead and the ground pump lead.
Remember the pump only runs a few seconds at switch-on unless the engine is turning over.
Acejones
12-05-2009, 04:43 PM
Paul,
Thanks ! I'll have to look at this tomorrow. I'll be back.
Funduro
12-05-2009, 11:15 PM
Don't put 12 Volts across the float terminal and ground or you will fry the magnetic reed switch in the float assembly. See my recent posts on this problem. I had a similar problem and it was the fuel filter not the pump. Again, look at my recent posts on this topic. Good luck.
136388
12-05-2009, 11:53 PM
I have a 97 R850R that quit running without any warning. The fuel pump quit and I went ahead and ordered one from Beemer Boneyard and installed it, along with having to recondition the tank's interior due to the lining peeling off. I, too, checked for relays and fuses and both were ok. When I installed the new fuel pump assembly it failed to work. I checked for continuity and found the ground wire (brown wire) that feeds through the flange lacked continuity. Since I was preparing for a week-long ride (the next morning) I went ahead and "tapped" a ground wire in to the existing brown wire and grounded it on one of the fuel pump's exterior flange bolts to get a good ground. Sure enough...it fired right up! Radio Shack makes these really nifty little wire connections with teeth on the eyelet to get a good connection.
A local non-BMW motorcycle mechanic indicated that he'd heard of this problem happening but had not actually seen it. In the meantime I'm, "ridin like I stole it" but I'm looking for a replacement fuel tank flange with good electrical connections.
I'm just glad I didn't spend the 4 bills for a BMW fuel pump! By the way, I have a back up fuel pump. Good luck!
Acejones
12-06-2009, 01:57 PM
Thanks to all who supported me on this project. I got the shoehorn out and put the pump assembly back in the tank after oh so carefully tightening the tiny nuts on the plate. I poured a little fuel in the tank, hit the starter and felt like Dr. Frankenstein ! "It's Alive !!"
I still think these things are examples of rediculous engineering run amok. There are simpler, and just as effective ways to build something.
Anyway, Thank you all.
jingdog
12-06-2009, 04:31 PM
I still think these things are examples of rediculous engineering run amok. There are simpler, and just as effective ways to build something.
A new R90/6 would be so sweet!
Acejones
12-06-2009, 05:27 PM
I had a R80RT for a short while and hated it. I think it was the fairing. Maybe naked would be better.
I like the looks of faired bikes, but always prefer to ride naked.
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