'94 R1100RS Clutch replacement

[lsouth3]

After recently buying an R11RS and repairing the engine, it's time to replace the clutch on my "other" bike, also a 94 R11RS. I have been taking it really easy on this clutch for the last year or so especially in 4-5 gears. I have the Haynes and BMW manuals but have not been able to find a good pictorial in the forums. There's gotta be one here someplace! Also if anyone has tricks or suggestions I'd like to know what's out there. My plan is to teardown and evaluate, then order parts. It appears that on my model a "kit" will likely be necessary as only the friction plate is sold as a separate item. Are there any upgrades or aftermarket parts such as a pressure plate or spring plate out there that could be obtained without buying the entire assembly? Although I have replaced several automobile clutches this will be my first motorcycle dry clutch. I will appreciate any input.
Thanks,
Lee

[boxerr]

The early clutches were a problem, so the new parts will be the updated clutch kit.

I did the clutch on my old 1993 model RS, and was supplied with a kit. Best way to go, that way it is all new.

Not a 5 minute job though.

[69zeff65]

I would get the latest model of the clutch slave cylinder and install that as well, unless its a cable type.

[John Brase]

While this is not a complete how-to, here is a link to some pictures I took while doing mine last Spring. You might find them helpful.

http://jbrase.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/BMW-Clutch-RR/8391157_aMH54#550801781_vBkdk

John

[lsouth3]

Perfect !!
Thanks John. :clap:clap

[MCMXCIVRS]

I would get the latest model of the clutch slave cylinder and install that as well, unless its a cable type.

94 model is a cable actuated system, but its worth looking at the cable too while its apart.

Be sure you replace the clutch bolts and lock washers as they are one time use only (torque to yield). Also, I'd look carefully at the rear engine seal while its apart as its pretty easy to change at that point. The flywheel bolts also must be replaced if it it removed.

[lsouth3]

Thanks. All points taken. I will replace the cable. It's the original. The rear seal is a must as well as the bolts and washers.
I'll have to see the push rod and piston before ordering them. I'll also replace the left side cam chain tensioner with the upgrade.
I really appreciate the thoughtful input.
Lee

[kbasa]

When I did ours, I did not disassemble the entire final drive and such, but removed the trans, paralever and final drive as a unit. The only reason to disturb the paralever is to get at the neutral switch. I cut the harness and installed a four pin connector using AMP connectors. I shrink wrapped it to keep it watertight. I could then wheel everything aft of the clutch out in one piece on a transmission jack. I removed the rear wheel, of course.

Use the guide pins from BMW or find some bolts to help you guide the trans off the bike. If you want to borrow the pins, let me know. I have a set, along with the clutch arbor.

Use a tie down to hold the rear subframe up and out of the way. You'll need to pull it up farther than you'd like.

Put every part or assembly in a ziploc bag and mark it with a sharpie.

If you want to do a canisterectomy, now is the time.

We had a "beta" bike and the whole clutch assembly was upgraded. We just bought a whole kit and I replaced everything.

[kbasa]

Thanks. All points taken. I will replace the cable. It's the original. The rear seal is a must as well as the bolts and washers.
I'll have to see the push rod and piston before ordering them. I'll also replace the left side cam chain tensioner with the upgrade.
I really appreciate the thoughtful input.
Lee

Oh, if you haven't upgraded the throttle cable, do so. Most bikes had this done. Check the part number on the sleeve. The new ones had a teflon liner and are much easier to work.

[lsouth3]

Thanks KBasa. Both my RS bikes have the original cable on the throttle. They will be replaced. I WOULD like to borrow your pins and arbor.
My E-addy is lsouth3@gmail.com. Please email me and I'll send my Texas address back to you. I'd like to get the postage both ways too if you please.
Thanks,
Lee

[flars]

"...Be sure you replace the clutch bolts and lock washers as they are one time use only (torque to yield)..." The manual says to replace these, but they are NOT torque to yield, just torque value. TtY is on the flywheel (clutch housing) bolts.

You will need something to hold the flywheel while removing and torquing the bolts. I used a bent piece of metal wedged into the flywheel teeth and the engine cover.
When reinstalling the transmission, be sure to grease the locating pins or you will have a bear of a time getting the trans back on.
The clutch changed in 12/97, so you will have to buy the entire kit (housing, diagphragphtdm - however you spell it - spring, clutch housing cover, friction plate), since I am pretty sure you won't find a replacement friction plate for the pre-12/97 clutch.
The only difficult part for me (on my '98 RS) were: sliding the trans back because it was stuck to the locating pins, and then there is a wiring bundle that curls around the rubber mount on the left that holds the battery box in place, and attachs to a grounding screw on the top of the engine. The wire was very short, and had to be held up out of the way in order to slide the trans back (and no, there weren't any wire ties holding it in place that I could have loosened in order to get some fighting room up there).
The tail has to be lifted a LONG way in order to slide the airbox out. The tail has to be dropped all the way down in order to reinstall the airbox.

Actually a pretty easy job.

[lsouth3]

More good stuff! Thank you Flars. Some dealers are making the friction plate available now. Do you feel that you needed the other parts or that you just had to buy them to get what you needed? I'm still planning to teardown before I order parts. There are wide variances on the price of parts from one online dealer to the next. For example the kit goes for 510.89 at some places and as low as 461.00 at another. Wide range

[flars]

I had 140,000 miles on my clutch, and it was behaving just fine. Since I was in there to fix the transmission, I replaced it. I bought a complete used clutch from beemerboneyard for not much more than the price of the friction plate. It had 23,000 miles on it, and the friction plate thickness was close to new.
BTW - while you are taking everything apart - if you happen to find a hard plastic bushing about a quarter inch long with a hole about 4 mm in diameter, let me know where it goes. Seems I have one left over. Pretty sure it goes on the left side somewhere...

[lsouth3]

I'll watch for it!

[lsouth3]

BTW - while you are taking everything apart - if you happen to find a hard plastic bushing about a quarter inch long with a hole about 4 mm in diameter, let me know where it goes. Seems I have one left over. Pretty sure it goes on the left side somewhere...

Flars, I haven't found anything that resembles the bushing you describe. Could it be something that you "picked up" from the road surface somewhere? I found lots of those things, mostly dead insects and small pebbles. :dunno

Thanks to your post I was very careful to tie all the loose hanging stuff out of the way and removal was a breeze.
Lee

[lsouth3]

. If you want to borrow the pins, let me know. I have a set, along with the clutch arbor.

The clutch is replaced. I made the pins and alignment tool. Thanks, though!

[lsouth3]

DONE! Been for a long ride and all is well. Thanks again to all those who helped with suggestions, pics and support.
Flars, I did not find any hard plastic bushing at all.
Lee :thumb :dance

[Kaltzg]

BTW - while you are taking everything apart - if you happen to find a hard plastic bushing about a quarter inch long with a hole about 4 mm in diameter, let me know where it goes. Seems I have one left over. Pretty sure it goes on the left side somewhere...

I bet the bushing that you have left over goes on one the alignment pins on the starter cover. See item #2.

http://www.webparts.com/diagram.php?btnr=12_0766&mospid=47944&hg=12&fg=15

[kbasa]

. If you want to borrow the pins, let me know. I have a set, along with the clutch arbor.

The clutch is replaced. I made the pins and alignment tool. Thanks, though!


Woo. That was fast.

Sorry I didn't get them out. :hide

[John Brase]

DONE! Been for a long ride and all is well. Thanks again to all those who helped with suggestions, pics and support.
Lee :thumb :dance

Congratulations.:thumb It is an intimidating looking job but if you take your time and pay attention it turns out to be not so bad. And a lot better than the $12-1500 the dealer gets for the job.

John

[jimbobmw01]

I am the second owner of this 96 gs with rather low mileage that is just starting to slip in 4-5 gear if I push it. The local shop suggests this might be due to a seal leaking. I am planning to do the job myself, so, where is the best place for parts? What parts do you think I will need? My first clutch job. Help!

I have a good lift to work from, but would I be better off on the floor with a floor jack under the tranny? All advice would be appreciated. Also, I would like to borrow those pins, Dave, if they have been returned.

[MCMXCIVRS]

I am the second owner of this 96 gs with rather low mileage that is just starting to slip in 4-5 gear if I push it. The local shop suggests this might be due to a seal leaking. I am planning to do the job myself, so, where is the best place for parts? What parts do you think I will need? My first clutch job. Help!

I have a good lift to work from, but would I be better off on the floor with a floor jack under the tranny? All advice would be appreciated. Also, I would like to borrow those pins, Dave, if they have been returned.

Working on a lift is fine. No need for a jack if you seperate the FD and swingarm from the transmission. If you remove it all together, it can be pretty akward and heavy to handle, and a jack might help. Seprating the components is not a bad idea anyway as it gives you the opportunity to inspect and lubricate the pivot bearings and the drive shaft splines.

[jimbobmw01]

Thanks for the advice Ed. I would rather stay off the floor.
Jim Moore

[lsouth3]

PM sent.
Good advice.
I had to replace one of the rear pivot bearings and later learned about Tom Cutter's bushings in one of Paul Glaves' postings. That's for sure the way to go. You'll need a 30mm socket for the nuts on the pivot screws. Tom also has the Honda Moly 60 paste you'll need for lubing the splines and the contact points on the clutch kit.(sparingly) I also made a rather crude but very effective bearing puller that I'll send to you if you need it.
Lee

[lsouth3]

Jim ,
Here is a link to a discussion that you might read before you disassemble the drive shaft prior to removing the transmission.

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41725

Also, I replaced both input and output shaft seals in the tranny since I was in there. And if you're having difficulty with the neutral switch, it is a good time to replace it.
Lee

[Andy VH]

I can speak from direct experience with having done the clutch three times myself on my 94 R1100RS. The first time was because the rear main seal had failed and oiled the friction plate by 60,000 miles. So I only replaced the friction plate to save some bucks. BUT! At about 100,000 miles the clutch started slipping again. So I took it apart again, and again replaced the friction plate because I thought the flywheel and pressure plates looked good yet.

Well, only 20,000 miles later I had a slipping clutch when hard on the throttle again. So I took it apart again, and I wasted a LOT of time trying to figure out then why a new friction plate would not solve my slipping issues. In fact I could not even get the clutch to work right by simply replacing the friction disc again. That is, until the dealer and I finally figured out the extremely shallow "cone type" wear pattern on the flywheel and pressure plate, which resulted in only a 1/4" edge of contact on the friction plate.

So I finally ponied up the bucks for the complete clutch kit, $375 I think it was (after I had already spent the $125 for the friction plate), and put it back together and everyhting worked perfectly, as it has now for another 23,000 miles with no problems at all. So, when it comes time to replace the clutch, don't go cheap like I tried with only the friction plate. Get the complete clutch kit and do it right, once.