gear oil drain plug frozen

[richardstutz]

I just bought a 1998 r1100r and I'm trying to replace the fluids. I can't get the gear oil drain plug loosened. It's a 6mm hexhead bolt and I can't break it lose to save my soul. So far I broke a 6mm socket. I can only get heat on it from right side of the bike. Has anyone run across this problem before.
Thanks
richar Stutz

[jingdog]

If you ran the bike 50 miles that would heat the plug up some. (although making the mufflers hot too) It takes a 6mm allen key, right?

[richardstutz]

I took it on a 25 mile ride to warm up the engine oil and final drive oil which I had no problems changing. The gear oil drain plug is the only oil plug that won't come out.

[richardstutz]

According to the fiche for the R1100R the drain bolt is a 8MM hex. This one for some reason is a 6MM hex. The gear oil fill plug is a 8mm hex. Go figure....

[PGlaves]

I'm not sure what you are trying to loosen. My parts diagram shows a drain plug that looks just like the one (in the horizontal "tunnel" on the right side below the fill plug) on Voni's R1100RS and it takes a 13mm socket.

#6 in the drawing below.

Are you sure you are trying to loosen the drain plug and not a loctited fastener that holds something inside like a baffle plate or something?

[richardstutz]

Yep! #6 is it. It's the one in the tunnel. I did notice on the fiche it mentioned there is now an updated plug.....

[richardstutz]

My first post mentioned I could only get heat on it from the right side. I meant the bikes left side. You can get a torch on about half that tunnel from behind. As soon as you get a torch near the tunnel the flame goes out.

[PGlaves]

Does it take a socket? What size?

Or an internal hex (Allen) tipped socket?

[philbromwich]

Go to Sears or a decent Autoparts store and purchase an impact driver.
You would normally use this tool on screws or allen headed bolts.
Your drain plug has a shoulder on it,:bikes so this tool should do it.
As you strike the tool it wants to turn and so break free the plug.
If you get the plug out then check it out good and if necessary replace it with a new one,of course at the minimum you should renew the crush washer.

[richardstutz]

It takes an internal 6mm hexhead socket. I have a impact tool and have been using it. I don't want to screw things up beyound repair. I have a picture of what I'm working with but I can't get it one here. Maybe I shouldn't be working on the bike...:)

[richardstutz]

Paul,

I sent a picture to your e-mail address

Thanks

[PGlaves]

Paul,

I sent a picture to your e-mail address

Thanks

Here is the picture I got in the email, folks. It is a 6mm internal hex plug that takes a 6mm Allen type socket or long allen.

I sent a longer email that said in a nutshell to get a "pencil torch" that uses butane - to apply some heat right around the plug, and to use the hand impact driver. Since the plug is shouldered the impact driver won't damage the threads, but it might strip out the Allen hex. Then it is straight fluted extractor time.

[richardstutz]

Thank you for the information Paul

[JimMoore]

I had a similar problem once. I never got the thing off. I ended up running a thin piece of plastic tubing down into the fill hole and siphoning the transmision oil out. It took alsmost a quart to refill it, so I figure I got most of it out.

[bikerfish1100]

fwiw, i use a Milwaukee heat gun (sold for stripping paint) for things like this. plenty heat, and no flame to mar surfaces or to go out.
sounds like last person to install got a bit exuberant with their torquing forces.

[manicmechanic]

I encountered one like that on a customer's bike. After getting the plug out, I determined that there was no crush ring.

[jingdog]

I agree with bikerfish an electric heating gun is the way to go. (I use one at work all the time) If you get that thing out dont put it back! By all means replace it with a hex head bolt type!

[kantuckid]

Perhaps a left hand twist drill bit set is in order-after the suggestions already made are exhausted. I don't think you will have to go to that extreme.

[dhgeyer]

I had a similar issue, although not as bad, with the fill plug on the final drive on my '96 R850R. I know it had been tightened to spec, because I did it myself with a torque wrench (I always do), but for some reason it "Grabbed". I broke a hex socket trying to loosen it, but finally pounded it loose with a large allen wrench. I was afraid I was going to strip out the internal hex surfaces, but it didn't happen. Since then, I tighten that plug to less than the spec in the service manual.

[windman]

I had the same issue and used an "Easy-Out". The plug came out smoothly with no issues. Easy-Outs can be found at Sears but may require cutting to fit.

[PGlaves]

This is a problematic application for some types of extractors. The size and depth of the hole do not lend themselves well to most reverse twisted extractors. The extractor bottoms before the edges can twist in and grab.

And, it is not a good location to drill a hole in the plug because of the risk of contaminating the transmission internals with debris from drilling.

If heat and a hand impact driver don't work and strip out the internal hex, I would want to use a Hansen straight fluted extractor which drives into the stripped hex and grips. I have had good luck with driving no deeper than the existing internal hex in that plug.

[nrpetersen]

I gather from the picture that this plug sits in the bottom of a well such that you can't get on it with a punch (correct?)

Otherwise applying as much torque as possible while the using a punch and hammer to drive the plug face in a radial direction (assuming there is radial access somewhere) would help crack it loose.

Assuming it actually is in a completely inaccessible well, (who in hell designed that?) You might even try using a punch & hammer to drive it towards the transmission while applying max possible torque (two people). The axial shock might cause it to loosen

Any heat of course will help since it expands the aluminum case more than the steel plug.

[PGlaves]

It is located in what I call a tunnel - that directs the draining gear oul outward so only some of it falls on the exhaust. Punching in a circular fashion simply won't work due to the recess in which it is located.

Punching inward is also likely to have no effect since it has a stout shoulder and (maybe) crush washer already pulled too tightly to the face of the casting.

At this point I'd try a shot of Kroil penetrating oil and then again heat and impact.

[richardstutz]

The gear oil drain bolt finally broke loose. It took a very large easy out and big pry bar. I now have the 13MM drain plug installed. I never did get any heat on it. The pencil torch wouldn't burn in the tunnel. Not enough oxygen.
Thanks for everyone's help. Now on with my restoration project.
Rich

[PGlaves]

The gear oil drain bolt finally broke loose. It took a very large easy out and big pry bar. I now have the 13MM drain plug installed. I never did get any heat on it. The pencil torch wouldn't burn in the tunnel. Not enough oxygen.
Thanks for everyone's help. Now on with my restoration project.
Rich

Good Work!

[richardstutz]

I forgot to mention that there was not a crush washer on that drain bolt.

Rich Stutz

[kgadley01]

I forgot to mention that there was not a crush washer on that drain bolt.

Rich Stutz

Glad you got it out...I had the same problem with my 99 RT. there wasn't a crush washer on mine either. there is now. :thumb

[JKERSH1]

Wasn't the crush washer on the tranny drain plug deleted after late-1996, or 1997, on the R1100's?

[jingdog]

My 96 GS didnt have one when I bought it used in 07. That trans was rebuilt by BMW.

[69zeff65]

When I work with these extra tight plugs and bolts that use an allen or tox head I always make sure I put a light coat of "valve grinding compound" on the inserted end of the key or wrench, then I will give the other end a nice solid rap with the correct size hammer just to make sure its seated and the impact will assist in the losening process. I also have in my bag of tricks a very old and very useful, hand held, hammer operated impact driver that does the job when all else fails.

[PGlaves]

Wasn't the crush washer on the tranny drain plug deleted after late-1996, or 1997, on the R1100's?

Yes, or so BMW said. And they changed the torque spec from 18nm to 30nm or thereabouts. But I use one anyway. And the plug with the hex head instead of the internal hex too. There is still plenty of thread engagement and you get the tactile feel of the washer crushing to know when it is tight enough, and the lock washer effect of the crush washer without it being gorilla tight. Exactly what they were thinking eludes me, but that has happened more than once in the past 30 years.