Another RS Project

[habdala]

One thing let to another and now the inedible. I purchase a 79 R100RS three weeks ago with 65k miles from the original owner, bike look good to clean and ride but after further inspection the timing chain needed replacing, valves adjusting and the list keeps on going. It was a deal could not refuse since I got a good deal on two bikes. The bike has original everything, from tools, owners manual, Tyre pump, and bike lock in the frame, bike was built for the European market and imported into the US in 92

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SufyYAnz3wI/AAAAAAAALy0/uRyrKN_k0qA/s720/IMG_3459.JPG

I replaced timing chain and sprockets, adjusted valves, rebuilt carburetors and now I'm working on the breaks. The master cylinder located under the tank is leaking and I see rust under that area.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SufveoJ-3mI/AAAAAAAALyI/N-uyhtzp7Pw/s720/IMG_3641.JPG


I decided that since I have tore down half the bike I might as well keep on going and check clutch, spline and replace a few gaskets here and there, the battery tray is also rusted and needs attention the rear brakes works fine but I will go over and freshen the pads and fluid. I guess for a 30 year old bike a few things need to be checked and fixed before I can ride it.

This is where I'm right now.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Suf1twMdnMI/AAAAAAAALzo/0UV_SihyZOg/s720/IMG_3654.JPG.

[mikeb921]

Great bike. You're doing the right thing. Bring it up to date maintenance wise and you'll be able to ride it pretty much worry free. Those white saddle bags really should be on a "Motosport" model. I'll bet someone here will be willing to trade you a set of black ones for them.

Ride Safe
MB

[jamesdunn]

Nice bike. Keep us posted on your progress.

[habdala]

Great bike. You're doing the right thing. Bring it up to date maintenance wise and you'll be able to ride it pretty much worry free. Those white saddle bags really should be on a "Motosport" model. I'll bet someone here will be willing to trade you a set of black ones for them.

Ride Safe
MB

Bags are in great shape and yes, I want to trade or find a used set in black.

Thank you,

H.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SufyYAnz3wI/AAAAAAAALy0/uRyrKN_k0qA/s720/IMG_3459.JPG

What are those two gauge-looking dials below the right side cover, just in front of the Krauser?

[mikeb921]

What are those two gauge-looking dials below the right side cover, just in front of the Krauser?


They look like European inspection discs, but what the hell do I know.

Ride Safe
MB

[tricyclerob]

Habdala,
I have a real nice set of black bags I would trade for the white ones if you would like to ping me off list. thanks, rj

[habdala]

What are those two gauge-looking dials below the right side cover, just in front of the Krauser?

Looks like a work or union decals.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SujaS7yJAKI/AAAAAAAAL2M/r4u_YKWVWGY/s720/IMG_3668.JPG

After removing the oil filter I found this

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SujUbYKlzZI/AAAAAAAAL1w/uJEtD6Go_bU/s512/IMG_3667.JPG

Gasket was not seated properly. Don't know how it did not leak more oil

[habdala]

I removed mufflers and rear tire, is there a better way to remove the tire? it was a pain.

Mufflers removed
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SujpFS7BzSI/AAAAAAAAL30/hhZwKBY9FIY/s720/IMG_3663.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SujphXDE19I/AAAAAAAAL38/8JImB9J-KGA/s720/IMG_3662.JPG

Tire removed
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Sujp2sZwllI/AAAAAAAAL4E/zCEj8uT6qC8/s720/IMG_3670.JPGhttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SujqDHxNK7I/AAAAAAAAL4g/0eiOBYwoZ9A/s720/IMG_3674.JPG

So far so good, gears in the rear looking good the only bad is the rear rotor, I will have to replace since has groves.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Sujqmys6q4I/AAAAAAAAL4o/4PuWnzy6QF0/s720/IMG_3673.JPG

Here is some good break fluid.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Sujrox8fbEI/AAAAAAAAL5E/FYD3u4WyvWA/s720/IMG_3669.JPG

I should have taken pictures of the front fluid, it looked like chocolate milk.

[monsondm]

I have a couple of sets of Krausers that I would be interested in trading for the White ones. Those look like real early ones as there is no indentition for the BMW logo. Where are you from? Mine are in MI.

[habdala]

I have a couple of sets of Krausers that I would be interested in trading for the White ones. Those look like real early ones as there is no indentition for the BMW logo. Where are you from? Mine are in MI.

My bags will look good on your bike but the bags might be spoken for but not sure I'm in Northern VA.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

This is turning into an interesting project, one I've been looking for on an RS, so I'll just live vicariously through your work (and wallet, hehe).

If the oil filter wasn't sealed properly, its probably worth sliding the cylinders back to look at the cam followers (lifters) and take a looksy at the crank. There is something called the $2000 o-ring that, if you are new to airheads you should definitely read. It applies to oil cooled and non-oil cooled bikes. Suffice it to say that there is a lot of pressure going through the oil circuit and an incorrect o-ring installation can ruin an engine--hopefully not in your case. Keep the old filter and cut it open for inspection. Here are a couple links (gobs of information on this):

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?p=119895
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/Oil.htm
http://www.airheads.org/content/view/189/49/

If you need a hand synching carbs, PM me, I am in Northern Va frequently and happy to help.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I have a couple of sets of Krausers that I would be interested in trading for the White ones. Those look like real early ones as there is no indentition for the BMW logo. Where are you from? Mine are in MI.

Nice bike! His white Krausers are early, they are the bayonet/receiver style, so your pannier mounts would need the metal tang on the aft end. I think those are available on fleabay from time to time. :type

[crazydrummerdude]

Nice.

:lurk

[jamesdunn]

Annapolis is right about the 2,000 dollar O ring. It is worth checking out but if it sounds good and your oil light does not stay on you're probably fine. It seems your bike has some defered maintenance issues. In reviewing your photos it is apparent you need new seals for the pushrods. You probably already knew that.

[habdala]

Annapolis is right about the 2,000 dollar O ring. It is worth checking out but if it sounds good and your oil light does not stay on you're probably fine. It seems your bike has some defered maintenance issues. In reviewing your photos it is apparent you need new seals for the pushrods. You probably already knew that.

No problems with the oil light does go away after bike starts. Yes push rods seals are on the list and all the gaskets that will go along with the rod job.

[535is]

I have a couple of sets of Krausers that I would be interested in trading for the White ones. Those look like real early ones as there is no indentition for the BMW logo.

Those are the Krauser Krausers. I have a set, as well as the white Motorsport bags the English bikes came with. There is a depression for the roundel right where those roundels that say "Krauser" are located. It's just not the same location as the BMW-branded ones. In order to help out another Motorsport owner, I'd consider trading off the white Krausers I have. PM me if you don't get a shot at these.

The OP's bike looks great, but those white bags really are out of place on it.

[swall]

Your brake fluid actually does not look atypical.

[habdala]

Rear tire and final drive removal, the rear tire as I mention before is not easy to remove unless there is a better way to do it but even after removing the rear fender it was still difficult, I had to remove the caliper to free the rear tire. The swing arm was easy after reading a bit in how to remove the four bolts that attach the final drive to the tranny, I should have read it before I removed the tire and brake because you need to use the brake to stop the cardan to remove those bolts, lesson learned.

When I disconnected the plastic boot between the swing arm and tranny this watery oil poured out. Is that oil from the tranny? Looks like heavy oil.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SupGvbFe67I/AAAAAAAAL7g/G6GLot8a2rA/s512/IMG_3695.JPG

Swing arm and final drive removed

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SupGrH5DKZI/AAAAAAAAL7Y/c8jxnXdrD_I/s720/IMG_3698.JPG


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SupG1g4fOPI/AAAAAAAAL7o/yv2e0Wk04Uw/s720/IMG_3699.JPG

This is what the bike looks now.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SupMOVclvRI/AAAAAAAAL8s/Tl-EwZcg88I/s720/IMG_3702.JPG

[tghsmith]

no the shaft has its own gear lube, as long as the trans output and the final drive input seals are good. doesn't look bad as long as there isn't any rust in the u-joint or bell coupling regions, from the pics it looks like the clutch lever pin on the back of the tran is installed with the clip on top, make sure you put it in with the clip on the bottom.

[jamesdunn]

No problems with the oil light does go away after bike starts. Yes push rods seals are on the list and all the gaskets that will go along with the rod job.

Do not forget to drop the oil pan and install a new gasket. The oil pickup may and probably will need to have the bolts tightened. Clean everything up while you're in there. Use a newer fiber gasket, although these may be all that are available now.

[Yarddog]

I'm loving this thread...I'm doin' the same thing on my R100/7 right now, and I'm able to follow along and see what things look like BEFORE I get mine to that point, as you're a little ahead of me!! Yep...plagerizing yer project...hey, it's what I do! LOL

[habdala]

I'm loving this thread...I'm doin' the same thing on my R100/7 right now, and I'm able to follow along and see what things look like BEFORE I get mine to that point, as you're a little ahead of me!! Yep...plagerizing yer project...hey, it's what I do! LOL

Wrong guy to follow! Just having fun tearing this thing down the real project begins when you put it back together.

[kbasa]

BTDT, last year.

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/DSC0005/256260533_r5sDk-L.jpg

After:

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/DSC0002/383998418_4qMnR-L.jpg

If I can offer one bit of advice, it would be to do something every single day for this project. Projects stall when you take time off, so do one little thing each day. It could be reading the manual, organizing parts, shopping for new parts, cleaning parts or whatever, but do something every day to keep the momentum going.

[kwb210]

And I don't mean WHAT repair manual?
I mean what brand or whose repair manual are you using? I am half way into my 1977 R100/7 clutch and using a Clymers and a factory, they somewhat compliment each other, plus articles from various experts i have copied off. I have taken lots of pics, made notes, and used zip lock sandwich bags for ALL bolts w/ a piece of paper in the bag with a note. One of the reasons is that so many of my projects get interrupted and then I have a memory issue, like what the heck is that bolt for! My bike has 72,000 miles and was VERY well cared for, i got lucky. My intention on the repairs is to bring it back at least close to the original specs.
Keep us posted!
Thanks
Kurt
1977 R100/7

[535is]

from the pics it looks like the clutch lever pin on the back of the tran is installed with the clip on top, make sure you put it in with the clip on the bottom.

Not to be a snot, but ... why? I ask because I nearly lost the pivot pin a month or two after I got my bike when the e clip went missing. I noticed that the clip depression (that doesn't actually have a clip specified for it) was on the bottom. So it serves no purpose whatsoever. At least when it's at the top, if you put a clip on it (as I plan to upon reassembly), the thing has to overcome gravity to come out.

Actually, I find the whole design to be baffling. It can't be some critical engineering reason because I've seen at least three different arrangements of pins/bolts on different Airheads. I don't blame those backyard 'hacks' who have substituted a bolt of the proper diameter for the pin. At least they won't suddenly find themselves pulling a clutch lever that does nothing ...

[tghsmith]

I've seen about three differant types of pivot pins out there, if it has clip on one end and a larger end on the other, slide it in from the top so it won't fall out if the clip goes astray. best to fit the bolt and nylock nut that went into use 81 on. basically if the pin falls out halfway and you pull in the clutch you just bought a replacement back trans plate....

[habdala]

BTDT, last year.

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/DSC0005/256260533_r5sDk-L.jpg

After:

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/DSC0002/383998418_4qMnR-L.jpg

If I can offer one bit of advice, it would be to do something every single day for this project. Projects stall when you take time off, so do one little thing each day. It could be reading the manual, organizing parts, shopping for new parts, cleaning parts or whatever, but do something every day to keep the momentum going.

Great advice, I will keep the flame going specially in the winter days.

[habdala]

And I don't mean WHAT repair manual?
I mean what brand or whose repair manual are you using? I am half way into my 1977 R100/7 clutch and using a Clymers and a factory, they somewhat compliment each other, plus articles from various experts i have copied off. I have taken lots of pics, made notes, and used zip lock sandwich bags for ALL bolts w/ a piece of paper in the bag with a note. One of the reasons is that so many of my projects get interrupted and then I have a memory issue, like what the heck is that bolt for! My bike has 72,000 miles and was VERY well cared for, i got lucky. My intention on the repairs is to bring it back at least close to the original specs.
Keep us posted!
Thanks
Kurt
1977 R100/7

I know I will wind up with a bunch of spacers, washers and a few bolts thinking where do these go?

[Bob_M]

I know I will wind up with a bunch of spacers, washers and a few bolts thinking where do these go?

Kbasa had enough parts left over to make a /2
:bolt

[kbasa]

And I don't mean WHAT repair manual?
I mean what brand or whose repair manual are you using? I am half way into my 1977 R100/7 clutch and using a Clymers and a factory, they somewhat compliment each other, plus articles from various experts i have copied off. I have taken lots of pics, made notes, and used zip lock sandwich bags for ALL bolts w/ a piece of paper in the bag with a note. One of the reasons is that so many of my projects get interrupted and then I have a memory issue, like what the heck is that bolt for! My bike has 72,000 miles and was VERY well cared for, i got lucky. My intention on the repairs is to bring it back at least close to the original specs.
Keep us posted!
Thanks
Kurt
1977 R100/7

YOu're putting all the nuts and bolts and small assemblies in ZipLoc bags and marking them with a Sharpie, right? This will help you when you go to reassemble. I drew diagrams on bits of paper and threw them in the bag with the bits in a couple instances.

DO NOT THROW THEM INTO A BIG BUCKET.

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/DSC0017/258843603_xX4Sw-L.jpg

[tghsmith]

murphy's law of mechanics states "if you take something apart and put it back together enough times, you will end up with two of them and neither will function."

[kbasa]

murphy's law of mechanics states "if you take something apart and put it back together enough times, you will end up with two of them and neither will function."

:lol3

When I had my CS apart, I had the centerstand welded so it's stronger. I had a couple of bits added to the centerstand itself, which creates a bigger contact patch on the frame. It only cost me $20 or something, but the centerstand is way stronger.

If you look at the frame in this photo, you can see where the centerstand was contacting and how the frame was starting to wear. Now, with a bigger contact area, I know the stand won't collapse on me.

I added little feet to the base, but wouldn't do that again. It makes the bike harder to get on the centerstand.

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/DSC0030/295219028_MykZy-M.jpg

[535is]

I've seen about three differant types of pivot pins out there, if it has clip on one end and a larger end on the other, slide it in from the top so it won't fall out if the clip goes astray. best to fit the bolt and nylock nut that went into use 81 on. basically if the pin falls out halfway and you pull in the clutch you just bought a replacement back trans plate....

... and my back trans plate has a kick starter sticking through it, so I doubt I'd find it cheap and used. I think I'll go with the bolt. Not only is it a visually verifiable installation, I can see no reasonable way to extract that e clip once it's been installed. Heck, I'm not entirely certain how to get it in. Parts diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/j/w/0.png

#11 goes on #12 between the clutch arm and the pivot ear on the gearbox. I wonder if a teflon or nylon washer in there where the e clip goes might smooth things out.

[Yarddog]

Wrong guy to follow! Just having fun tearing this thing down the real project begins when you put it back together.

No, no, you da man!!! I think I may pass you though pretty soon, although you're moving pretty fast...and I agree with the suggestion to do a little each day... sometimes momentum fades... I don't have the passion for this project, frankly, that I did for my Harley project a year ago, but, hey...

[habdala]

Racquetball tournament no play with the toys Grommet.:bolt

[habdala]

YOu're putting all the nuts and bolts and small assemblies in ZipLoc bags and marking them with a Sharpie, right? This will help you when you go to reassemble. I drew diagrams on bits of paper and threw them in the bag with the bits in a couple instances.

DO NOT THROW THEM INTO A BIG BUCKET.

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/DSC0017/258843603_xX4Sw-L.jpg

Sunday will be my day of organizing my parts, I did used marked Ziplock bags I think was a great idea after reading a post by other inmate in this forum. No diagrams for me just a bunch of photos I have taken before I remove a part showing electrical connections and attachments to that area. It's been a interesting project for me.

Thank you all for your comments and recommendations.

[habdala]

:lol3

When I had my CS apart, I had the centerstand welded so it's stronger. I had a couple of bits added to the centerstand itself, which creates a bigger contact patch on the frame. It only cost me $20 or something, but the centerstand is way stronger.

If you look at the frame in this photo, you can see where the centerstand was contacting and how the frame was starting to wear. Now, with a bigger contact area, I know the stand won't collapse on me.

I added little feet to the base, but wouldn't do that again. It makes the bike harder to get on the centerstand.

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/DSC0030/295219028_MykZy-M.jpg

Why? it doesn't feel like the center stand lock in place?

[kbasa]

Why? it doesn't not feel like the center stand lock in place?

Eventually, the sides of the centerstand get spread out. You'll go to put the bike on the centerstand and it'll go all the way over and fall down.

[habdala]

Eventually, the sides of the centerstand get spread out. You'll go to put the bike on the centerstand and it'll go all the way over and fall down.

I see! I don't know if this matters but my RS has the ride-off centerstand

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I see! I don't know if this matters but my RS has the ride-off centerstand

Reynolds Ride-Offs use the same notch, and in theory could spread also, but I think their design is a bit stronger. On mine, so far so good.

[habdala]

I removed the valve covers and cylinders, all looks good but there is some sideways play in the connecting rods but no in or out, is that normal?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zWJU_xlI/AAAAAAAAMBs/lqtvsba4KtQ/s720/IMG_3713.JPG

Left cylinder head

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zUbYp5OI/AAAAAAAAMBE/yCUnek01vzY/s720/IMG_3708.JPG

Left cylinder

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zVLmwltI/AAAAAAAAMBU/WLCTfHLVP8k/s720/IMG_3710.JPG

Piston top and bottom, they look good.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zXTyWiMI/AAAAAAAAMCY/TnNNgl6OCbs/s720/IMG_3718.JPGhttp://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zXgxudkI/AAAAAAAAMCg/dMzh-OKAVnY/s720/IMG_3719.JPG

Tranny out

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zTNV07XI/AAAAAAAAMAk/besBazLWyR0/s720/IMG_3704.JPG

There was no grease in the spline but looks good no signs of wear.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zTbQpnrI/AAAAAAAAMAs/OqHEGCIXU6Y/s720/IMG_3705.JPG

Engine out

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zb6rNgDI/AAAAAAAAMEQ/7HA31iOK0IU/s720/IMG_3733.JPGhttp://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zcBXErOI/AAAAAAAAMEY/Dm5SGvxCHKU/s720/IMG_3734.JPG

Frame

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zchH3IQI/AAAAAAAAMEo/DBRkbCkcRKE/s720/IMG_3736.JPG

I will remove the clutch to see if needs a new plate, 65K miles don't how long will the go but since I' there should be cheaper to do it now than later.

Any other suggestions?

[kbasa]

Those splines look kinda worn to me. They should be a uniform thickness from base to tip.

[habdala]

Those splines look kinda worn to me. They should be a uniform thickness from base to tip.

I measure it and reads .925 out middle and back of the shaft.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su9SleskylI/AAAAAAAAMIc/OHU2r41Kxqk/s720/IMG_3757.JPG

Here is a better picture

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su9SjZbSx6I/AAAAAAAAMH0/fBQ9lWUzuew/s720/IMG_3752.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su9SkfMYSPI/AAAAAAAAMIE/Dskq0yrEU2o/s512/IMG_3754.JPG

There is some play but is tight.

[habdala]

Looks good and the thickness of the friction plate is within limits I think, correct me if I'm wrong. PO installed a light flywheel and replaced the rear main seal a few years back.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su9OQb0Fd7I/AAAAAAAAMHQ/o9kZkToNmKQ/s720/IMG_3744.JPG

Friction plate

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su9OM_xLfNI/AAAAAAAAMHI/6JoX3ybdxnY/s720/IMG_3746.JPG

Spring looks good to me but questionable.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su9OI2Q3edI/AAAAAAAAMHA/lH8Sk7Gpa4A/s720/IMG_3747.JPG

Looking from the bottom looks good.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su9OcK7SdXI/AAAAAAAAMHY/kD7w-EUDYLk/s720/IMG_3750.JPG

[20774]

My Haynes says that the minimum thickness for a clutch plate is 5.75mm thru the 1980 model year. Your measurement is right at the min thickness...are you really going to reuse that part? Haynes also lists the relaxed height of the fingered spring as 17.1-17.7mm.

I'm facing a clutch rebuild on my /7 and will likely do it this winter. I have nearly 100K on the clutch. Without even measuring things, I plan on replacing everything. I don't EVEN want to go back in there again in order to just squeeze out a few more thousand miles on a questionable part. I'm there...it's getting replaced. That's just me I guess!

[habdala]

My Haynes says that the minimum thickness for a clutch plate is 5.75mm thru the 1980 model year. Your measurement is right at the min thickness...are you really going to reuse that part? Haynes also lists the relaxed height of the fingered spring as 17.1-17.7mm.

I'm facing a clutch rebuild on my /7 and will likely do it this winter. I have nearly 100K on the clutch. Without even measuring things, I plan on replacing everything. I don't EVEN want to go back in there again in order to just squeeze out a few more thousand miles on a questionable part. I'm there...it's getting replaced. That's just me I guess!


Wow! big diff, my Clymer says 4.5 mm I tought I was good for another 50k miles.:banghead

[kbasa]

Excellent flywheel lock. :thumb

[20774]

Wow! big diff, my Clymer says 4.5 mm I tought I was good for another 50k miles.:banghead

Hold on there...you might be right :hungover I see the "service limit" as 4.5mm. What I was reading was maybe the thickness range?? It lists 5.75 - 6.25mm. I mistook the 5.75 as the lower limit. You might be good to go... Sorry...

[habdala]

Hold on there...you might be right :hungover I see the "service limit" as 4.5mm. What I was reading was maybe the thickness range?? It lists 5.75 - 6.25mm. I mistook the 5.75 as the lower limit. You might be good to go... Sorry...

Good.... I just saved some mula for a while that is. :twirl

[habdala]

Excellent flywheel lock. :thumb

We need to use the tools in hand :idea

[habdala]

Frame ready for powdercoat.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su-a2g3B8zI/AAAAAAAAMLQ/Wn9f88ZJxsM/s720/IMG_3770.JPG

[tghsmith]

put a touch of the moly paste were the spring fingers come in contact with the back of the plate....

[Yarddog]

There's another thread goin' that discusses powder coating on the frame...in it, you'll not that some folks, myself included and especially, believe that powder coating has NO advantages for the end user, but does have advantages for the production process...folks have gotten it confused with porcelain coating, which isn't appropriate for frame coating anyway...

My suggestion is to paint the frame using the technique I and others have espoused on that other frame...don't waste money or effort on powder coating!

[kstoo]

... there is some sideways play in the connecting rods but no in or out, is that normal?


2 cents. That is 'normal' if they are sliding sideways, not rocking. The rod bearings are not really expensive but getting to them later will be. They might feel ok but it is best to take em out and measure. That is my new policy now anyway.

On that spline, the diameter measurement doesn't mean much. Visually compare the spline shape to the part that the clutch plate has not worn down by the transmission.

[AntonLargiader]

Frame ready for powdercoat.

I think you know it's not nearly ready; you have to remove everything including the front subframe, steering head bearing races, centerstand, gas tank mounts, sidestand stop, etc. The frame unit needs to be completely alone. Then it needs to be degreased, and the threaded holes and bearing pockets need to be masked off, but the coater will probably do that stuff.

[habdala]

I think you know it's not nearly ready; you have to remove everything including the front subframe, steering head bearing races, centerstand, gas tank mounts, sidestand stop, etc. The frame unit needs to be completely alone. Then it needs to be degreased, and the threaded holes and bearing pockets need to be masked off, but the coater will probably do that stuff.

Here we go, now is ready. I need to do the swing arm too but don't know how to remove the drive shaft from it.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SvCK09IApwI/AAAAAAAAMN4/7QQxWXGsi6A/s720/IMG_3779.JPG

[AntonLargiader]

I still see a SH bearing race. It's tempting to say you can leave it in there to protect the pocket from powder, but you can't degrease the area with the race there. The grease that's in back of it can contaminate the coating when it burns off in the oven.

Edit: or is the pocket just shiny?

[habdala]

I still see a SH bearing race. It's tempting to say you can leave it in there to protect the pocket from powder, but you can't degrease the area with the race there. The grease that's in back of it can contaminate the coating when it burns off in the oven.

Edit: or is the pocket just shiny?

It's just shiny, they are going to sand blast and wash the frame before powder. This guy does a lot of bike and motorcycle frames he knows his stuff.

Check out his gallery:

http://www.figureengineering.com/

[wuzred]

Not trying to hijack this thread but, someone mentioned having to replace the timing chain and sprockets. Are there telltale signs this should be done short of taking the front of the engine off for inspection?
My '82 RS has 162,000 on the clock and runs great.

[jamesdunn]

Not trying to hijack this thread but, someone mentioned having to replace the timing chain and sprockets. Are there telltale signs this should be done short of taking the front of the engine off for inspection?
My '82 RS has 162,000 on the clock and runs great.

I think the best thing to do would be to have an airhead mechanic that works on 'em with frequency have a listen. As the chains wear they do get noiser, but with time, your"ear" has adjusted to the sound. It is my understanding it is the sprockets etc. that wear more than the chain.

[20774]

It is my understanding it is the sprockets etc. that wear more than the chain.

And it's my understanding that one of the sprockets is more likely to wear...the smaller diameter one I would think...rationale escapes me at the moment.

But if I'm in there, I'm likely to replace both just because...

[kbasa]

I added a bunch of stuff when I had my powdercoating done: battery cage, centerstand, brackets to hold the instruments, the little rods that hold the S fairing in place, etc. I sorted through all my parts and found all the little black bits and sent them along.

If I'd been thinking, I'd have sent along a bunch of parts from my Honda. :bluduh

I went with a semigloss, which was pretty close to the factory finish.

[kstoo]

All this talk about powder coating...
I just sold a set of fork sliders to a fellow that had his powder coated. His were warped from the powder coat process and unusable. Careful ... be careful what you throw in the powder coat batch there.

[habdala]

All this talk about powder coating...
I just sold a set of fork sliders to a fellow that had his powder coated. His were warped from the powder coat process and unusable. Careful ... be careful what you throw in the powder coat batch there.

Yes! 400 degrees is bound to do some damage on metal.

[habdala]

I'm working on the carbs and replaced floats, all seals and diaphragms. I removed the butterfly and my question is how much light to you need to see after I put back together?

To much?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SvMNhyrUHWI/AAAAAAAAMQE/RUeXXw1IQA8/IMG_3787.JPG

Not enough?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SvMO2FBHKII/AAAAAAAAMQo/LPHitktSn58/IMG_3789.JPG

Before
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/St-vdWF8jGI/AAAAAAAALjo/IP5VMwL_Sbs/s720/IMG_3551.JPG

After

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/St-vevNa8QI/AAAAAAAALkI/hVeraCuDItU/s720/IMG_3555.JPG


I used a can of Berryman carb cleaner parts, it does a good job.

[habdala]

I added a bunch of stuff when I had my powdercoating done: battery cage, centerstand, brackets to hold the instruments, the little rods that hold the S fairing in place, etc. I sorted through all my parts and found all the little black bits and sent them along.

If I'd been thinking, I'd have sent along a bunch of parts from my Honda. :bluduh

I went with a semigloss, which was pretty close to the factory finish.

Do you have any pictures of your frame after it was done?

[RecycledRS]

The carb valve should close COMPLETELY! The less light the better. Check and see if the valve is in backwards, the edges are cut at an angle to aid in this and can easily be put on backwards. Carbs starting to look clean though.

[habdala]

Not trying to hijack this thread but, someone mentioned having to replace the timing chain and sprockets. Are there telltale signs this should be done short of taking the front of the engine off for inspection?
My '82 RS has 162,000 on the clock and runs great.


Mine had a lot of front end noise, after I replaced the chain and sprockets the noise is gone.:clap

[habdala]

The carb valve should close COMPLETELY! The less light the better. Check and see if the valve is in backwards, the edges are cut at an angle to aid in this and can easily be put on backwards. Carbs starting to look clean though.

There is a dot on the flap that points upward and out. Is that correct?

[RecycledRS]

Sorry don't know about a dot but do know they have to close almost totally. I have sometimes left the screws loose and tried closing the valve and moving it until it is right, then tightening the screws.

[habdala]

Sorry don't know about a dot but do know they have to close almost totally. I have sometimes left the screws loose and tried closing the valve and moving it until it is right, then tightening the screws.

I will check that again.

[kbasa]

Do you have any pictures of your frame after it was done?

Here's the whole saga. I probably should have taken pictures of the bits when they came back.

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/4014731_6i3Kh#P-1-20

[habdala]

I will check that again.


Flaps are installed correctly, my understanding was to have a little light showing.

[habdala]

Here's the whole saga. I probably should have taken pictures of the bits when they came back.

http://kbasa.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hardware/airhead-resurrection/4014731_6i3Kh#P-1-20


Nice! I like the color too

[kbasa]

Nice! I like the color too

Thank you. It's a 1984 R100CS Last Edition.

[RecycledRS]

I'm guessing with that much light showing past the butterfly the engine will rev a good 2500 to 3000 rpm at idle. Anybody else have a guess?

[wuzred]

Mine had a lot of front end noise, after I replaced the chain and sprockets the noise is gone.:clap


Thanks, I'll have to give it a listen up front, maybe borrow her stethoscope...I'll wipe it off later.:nono

[tghsmith]

with the idle adjuster backed away(no contact) the butterfly should close completely. loosen the screws and adjust it so(it has room for movement) DO NOT forget to peen the bf's screws after.. the dot on the choke(fuel enrichment ) shaft should be pointed towards the side with the large bump when the levers are reinstalled....

[habdala]

I did not clean the engine before starting this project and I recommend doing it cus you will have to to a thorough job before installing seals and gaskets. I used a large cup from your fave taco place to cover your connecting rod it does work pretty well as it fits perfect and seals the hole before cleaning, I also used a couple of oil caps to cover the push rod holes. To clean the engine I used CRC Brakekleen spray can works well with the provided tube and can control the spray.

Before

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zb6rNgDI/AAAAAAAAMEQ/7HA31iOK0IU/s720/IMG_3733.JPG

After

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SvNw7Vz8nVI/AAAAAAAAMSY/ksRbbaZaA_c/s720/IMG_3791.JPG

Oil pan, looks clean and no metal shavings at all.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SvNxAj2O_3I/AAAAAAAAMSg/4BDvdT5EhYE/s720/IMG_3797.JPGhttp://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SvNwxjCuB-I/AAAAAAAAMSQ/mmI8Jw1_2UQ/s720/IMG_3795.JPG

I also dissected the oil filter.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SvNwtgbE2BI/AAAAAAAAMSI/pI7qovUFp1s/s720/IMG_3796.JPG

[jamesdunn]

Good looking oil pan! Bike was never put away for a spell with dirty oil. Oil pickup bolts tight?

[habdala]

Good looking oil pan! Bike was never put away for a spell with dirty oil. Oil pickup bolts tight?


I did not go in there.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I did not go in there.

Now is the time. I've read that loc-tite is good on the pickup bolts. Careful torquing the pan bolts (I'm guessing you know this by now, on an aluminum block). I actually replaced all of mine. I think (not 100% sure) that they can stretch.

I'm envious of your project. The bike seems to be in good shape.

[habdala]

Now is the time. I've read that loc-tite is good on the pickup bolts. Careful torquing the pan bolts (I'm guessing you know this by now, on an aluminum block). I actually replaced all of mine. I think (not 100% sure) that they can stretch.

I'm envious of your project. The bike seems to be in good shape.

When I removed the oil pan screws they where only tighten to about 3 or 4 lbs that might explain the oil around the pan.

[Yarddog]

Back to engine cleaning for a moment...I loved your idea of plastic cups to cover the big holes in the block!!! My favorite technique for cleaning of this type is to use regular Gunk, which is basically pressurized diesel in a can, for the first go round...let it soak, then carb choke cleaner REALLY goes to town on it... Yeah, I have used brake cleaner, too, and it works real well, but for this stuff, the carb cleaner also is good...

[habdala]

Thanks, I'll have to give it a listen up front, maybe borrow her stethoscope...I'll wipe it off later.:nono

I usually use a 3ft wooden broom handle or stick, works great for listening engine noises, one end in the engine the other end hold it with your hand and put your ear on the knuckle on the index finger.

[kbasa]

Back to engine cleaning for a moment...I loved your idea of plastic cups to cover the big holes in the block!!! My favorite technique for cleaning of this type is to use regular Gunk, which is basically pressurized diesel in a can, for the first go round...let it soak, then carb choke cleaner REALLY goes to town on it... Yeah, I have used brake cleaner, too, and it works real well, but for this stuff, the carb cleaner also is good...

I used a bunch of WD40 and a brass brush. It takes a while, but it looks really, really nice afterwards. Don't use a steel brush. It'll leave particles on the case that will rust.

[habdala]

Today I was looking into getting some bids on repainting the RS parts, I was blown away by the first quote 1800~2000 wow! Tank, fairing, front fender, seat and side panels. I guess I will have to learn another trade:D

Color input will be taken into consideration.

My choice:

Black

http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/schemepages/schemer100rs.htm

http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/photos/schemephotos/R100RSR%20(2).JPG

[habdala]

I used a bunch of WD40 and a brass brush. It takes a while, but it looks really, really nice afterwards. Don't use a steel brush. It'll leave particles on the case that will rust.


I will try that.

[Yarddog]

I used a bunch of WD40 and a brass brush. It takes a while, but it looks really, really nice afterwards. Don't use a steel brush. It'll leave particles on the case that will rust.

Well, then, that's probably the only good thing I know about WD40 then, other than gettin' the water outta yer distributor! I sure don't recommend it as a lubricant, but thanks for that tip...I've heard that works...

[Yarddog]

It takes a LOTTA work to prep the surfaces, even if you take just the parts to be painted into the shop...and just cuz they're small doesn' t mean it's any easier or takes any less time...You got quoted probably the goin' rate, but DON'T forget that good work doesn't come cheap...and cheap work is never good! Paint is not where you want to cheap it out, because even if a cheap paint job initially looks good, down the road is where yer gonna find out whether the substrates are doin' their jobs...

Paint, and paint prepping, is tough work...the irony is that nobody seems to squack when they get charged $85-90 an hour for the parts changers to do what they do at the local dealership, but for a body man to charge $40 an hour? Oh, you'd think they were serial killers!!! And it takes decades for a body man to hit his stride, and a parts changer (AKA 'technician') can go to school, get a certification, and can earn the company a buncha money!!!

Anyway, need to get off that soap box...sounds like you might wanna find a pal willing to paint for less...don't forget that a good $400-500 of that quote is gonna be just materials...that is, IF they use good materials!!!

[mmmalmberg]

+1 on not using steel brush but you can use stainless steel brush. Or at least I do...

[kstoo]

Today I was looking into getting some bids on repainting the RS parts, I was blown away by the first quote 1800~2000 wow!

That is why I like the color "patina" so much. I can't see paying well over $1000 so that I can worry about every little scratch. I like to ride gravel roads with no anxiety. Sand & gravel trucks, just frikken annoying.

[Yarddog]

That is why I like the color "patina" so much. I can't see paying well over $1000 so that I can worry about every little scratch. I like to ride gravel roads with no anxiety. Sand & gravel trucks, just frikken annoying.

And, yeah, this is a good point, too... As long as you get good materials, so for a thousand bux, figure on $450 of that goin' towards materials, so what you will be gettin' is $650 worth of labor...

[habdala]

that is, IF they use good materials!!![/QUOTE]
That is the question...

[Yarddog]

Yep...my point perzactly!!! They ain't cheap anymore...especially here in California, but it's true across the board...you truly get what you pay for!

[habdala]

Yep...my point perzactly!!! They ain't cheap anymore...especially here in California, but it's true across the board...you truly get what you pay for!

I guess I will have to find a friend of a friend who can do the job, is hard to find the right guy for a paint job, I did made a mistake a few months ago when my son put a dent on the car and I took the car to the cheapest guy in town and now I can see why but I did save a grand on the job.

Maybe I should prep and just get a quote for the paint job.

[Yarddog]

Well, I got mine down to the frame yesterday, but I'm not gonna open Pandora's box and remove the swing arm and rear drive...I'll paint the frame as it, since I'm not building a show piece, only a nice lookin' road bike!!!

[kbasa]

Well, I got mine down to the frame yesterday, but I'm not gonna open Pandora's box and remove the swing arm and rear drive...I'll paint the frame as it, since I'm not building a show piece, only a nice lookin' road bike!!!

Check the shaft for notching. Mine was notched pretty badly and it took me a while to source a shaft.

[monsondm]

Habdala:

Are you getting the photos I sent you to your email address? If you still have my email address and your server is blocking mine, email on my site. If not respond on the MOA site. Dale Monson, Big Rapids, MI

[habdala]

Habdala:

Are you getting the photos I sent you to your email address? If you still have my email address and your server is blocking mine, email on my site. If not respond on the MOA site. Dale Monson, Big Rapids, MI


PM sent!

[habdala]

Ok, I have the frame at the powder coating and found a painter for the plastics. Now I find myself asking should I replace that or the other but here is a few things I will do:

Replace points and condenser, spark plugs, wires and coils, voltage regulator, (I messed it up) push road seals, head gasket, oil pan gasket, cylinder rings, lube the spline, clean and lube the clutch throwout bearing, front end bearings, wheel bearings, rebuild calipers and master cylinders, brake pads, brake lines, new rear rotor, and cables except speedo.

I have done:

Timing chain and sprockets

Here is what I might do:

Valve Job, new starter-solenoid, clutch, new exhaust.

I have cleaned the oil pan and installed new gasket, I torqued the screws to 5lbs, I think that is plenty tight.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SvYmdQqsM7I/AAAAAAAAMUQ/FY10c-gAiMs/s720/IMG_3801.JPG

All button down

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SvYmfo8IzTI/AAAAAAAAMUY/BrvIo7bR4Y0/s720/IMG_3804.JPG

And the wallet getting lighter

[habdala]

Has anyone found an aftermarket starter with the following specs:

Lighter, more torque, less power demand?

[20774]

Has anyone found an aftermarket starter with the following specs:

Lighter, more torque, less power demand?


I think this fits the bill...

http://www.motoelekt.com/starter.htm

[habdala]

I think this fits the bill...

http://www.motoelekt.com/starter.htm

Thank you!

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Looking good. This is downright inspirational, maybe we could all gather around and watch you work (and your wallet begin to float), group inspiration sessions. :stick

5lbs oughtta be plenty, agreed on the oil pan. The voltage regulator is a nice upgrade to an electronic one anyway, it starts charging at lower RPMs than the OEM. My Hella that I bought at Bob's BMW starts at about 2200 RPM instead of 4k or higher, so it won't generate more power but will start charging sooner and is more reliable.

On the brakes, have you considered switching to braided stainless, teflon-lined lines? IMO, less flex delivers much braking punch than rubber. When you rebuild the calipers, the torque values (if you have Brembos) for the allen bolts is pretty beefy, like 44 ft. lbs. Another thing to consider replacing on them are the pins that the pads ride upon.

A brass or bronze wool work wonders for cleaning and don't leave anything behind that can rust. :drink

[habdala]

Got my frame back and the guys at Figure Engineering did a wonderful job Len, the owner is a nice guy and great to deal with. Here are some pictures

Before

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su-a4b-VREI/AAAAAAAAMME/jmjmiVoOaNE/s640/IMG_3776.JPG

After

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwCNDyz9yGI/AAAAAAAAMg4/YWBD1QA7Ugc/s640/IMG_3822.JPG


Before

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su-a49T9bVI/AAAAAAAAMMU/7oUbZWXlpco/s640/IMG_3778.JPG



After

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwCNHIoQUTI/AAAAAAAAMfk/X1YKeAWEGhQ/s640/IMG_3832.JPG


Before

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zeONud3I/AAAAAAAAMFI/gZ4_26SutEQ/s640/IMG_3740.JPG

After

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwCNHlE4zXI/AAAAAAAAMf0/8p_O-8dGCOk/s512/IMG_3834.JPG


I will have more pictures after I start putting this thing together.

[habdala]

Looking good. This is downright inspirational, maybe we could all gather around and watch you work (and your wallet begin to float), group inspiration sessions. :stick

5lbs oughtta be plenty, agreed on the oil pan. The voltage regulator is a nice upgrade to an electronic one anyway, it starts charging at lower RPMs than the OEM. My Hella that I bought at Bob's BMW starts at about 2200 RPM instead of 4k or higher, so it won't generate more power but will start charging sooner and is more reliable.

On the brakes, have you considered switching to braided stainless, teflon-lined lines? IMO, less flex delivers much braking punch than rubber. When you rebuild the calipers, the torque values (if you have Brembos) for the allen bolts is pretty beefy, like 44 ft. lbs. Another thing to consider replacing on them are the pins that the pads ride upon.

A brass or bronze wool work wonders for cleaning and don't leave anything behind that can rust. :drink


Thank you Tony, please stop by as I need the support you are talking about specially with the wallet issue.

[RecycledRS]

Lookinnng Gooood!

[habdala]

Been cleaning wires and parts to go back on the bike and I tell you is a tedious and hard work specially if you don't have the proper equipment to do such task.

Painted swing arm

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwSKDb0UCxI/AAAAAAAAMjQ/5QyO-68jo5E/s512/IMG_3844.JPG

Heads, now the cover will need some kind of finish.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwSKLKFj_TI/AAAAAAAAMjo/GZtoDvFuZWc/s512/IMG_3846.JPG

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Heads, now the cover will need some kind of finish.

Looking good.

A fellow Airhead turned me onto bumper paint for a low sheen black that'll make you think you are an artist with a rattle can (get one of those handles). It sure made a difference on my bike, which was showing a lot of use and abuse.

I bead blasted my covers, then put two coats of hi-temp Engine paint followed by 3 coats of (believe it or not) bumper paint last January. It turns out to self-level nicely and then with just a dap of wax rub it for a light sheen to look like factory. I glued a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to a small block of wood and sanded the fins. Here's a picture I took tonight, the bike is pretty dirty right now in the middle of my RT fairing project so pardon the mess.

I was happy enough with it to do the engine top cover and the airbox. I bought a spare timing chain cover from ebay and just cleaned it up tonight. It'll get the same treatment and then be mounted when I get around to a new timing chain.

20162

[Yarddog]

I'm paintin' my whole engine black...now THAT'LL be different!

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I'm paintin' my whole engine black...now THAT'LL be different!

Here's a preview: http://tinyurl.com/Black-Engine :whistle

[Yarddog]

Thanks, AA...I can already see it in my mind in my /7 with black...all black...RT fairing and bags!!!

[20774]

I'm paintin' my whole engine black...now THAT'LL be different!

You're only joshin', right? That'll will affect the ability of the engine to cool by covering all the poors and putting a layer of paint over it.

[Yarddog]

You're only joshin', right? That'll will affect the ability of the engine to cool by covering all the poors and putting a layer of paint over it.

Not to any significant extent at all...there are TONS of engines out there that are painted all black...aircooled and watercooled...the key is to not get the paint too thick...two coats will work well...

No offense, but we've heard this argument for years, and I'm of the opinion that it could actually help cooling...but thanks for your concern!!!

[habdala]

Looking good.

A fellow Airhead turned me onto bumper paint for a low sheen black that'll make you think you are an artist with a rattle can (get one of those handles). It sure made a difference on my bike, which was showing a lot of use and abuse.

I bead blasted my covers, then put two coats of hi-temp Engine paint followed by 3 coats of (believe it or not) bumper paint last January. It turns out to self-level nicely and then with just a dap of wax rub it for a light sheen to look like factory. I glued a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to a small block of wood and sanded the fins. Here's a picture I took tonight, the bike is pretty dirty right now in the middle of my RT fairing project so pardon the mess.

I was happy enough with it to do the engine top cover and the airbox. I bought a spare timing chain cover from ebay and just cleaned it up tonight. It'll get the same treatment and then be mounted when I get around to a new timing chain.

20162

Good tip Tony, I will do the same. Do you have the brand for the bumper paint?

Thanks!

[20774]

No offense, but we've heard this argument for years, and I'm of the opinion that it could actually help cooling...

None taken... Hmmm...wonder why BMW didn't think of this?? :D

[Yarddog]

None taken... Hmmm...wonder why BMW didn't think of this?? :D

Well....there's that 'vaunted Teutonic engineering' again!!! LOL Naw, I'm not one of those that think the sun rises and sets on what the guys who built these did... Painting the engines black, really, is an exercise in style, and back in the day, style really didn't matter to these guys...in my case, the engine surfaces are so corroded that the easy way out is to prep the surface and paint 'em with high heat paint...the only concern I have is that I normally hit the bare surface with a self etching primer, and then you get into that heat exchange issue for sure...

[Bob_M]

... Painting the engines black, really, is an exercise in style, and back in the day, style really didn't matter to these guys...

Back in the day of the Slash 5s and Slash 6s engineers created the shapes and colors of the bikes, but with designer Hans Muth creating the look of the R90S and his magnum opus, the R100RS, BMW gave style a very high priorty that engineers had to accomodate.

You want to talk about style:

[kbasa]

Been cleaning wires and parts to go back on the bike and I tell you is a tedious and hard work specially if you don't have the proper equipment to do such task.

Painted swing arm

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwSKDb0UCxI/AAAAAAAAMjQ/5QyO-68jo5E/s512/IMG_3844.JPG



Why didn't you send the swingarm housing with the frame? :scratch

[habdala]

Why didn't you send the swingarm housing with the frame? :scratch


I could not take out the shaft and was afraid of the heat bending or melting something inside.

I'm not done with the swing arm yet, it will look just like the frame.

[Yarddog]

That's good thinkin, habdala...I decided not to take off my swingarm or rear drive when I paint my frame...don't wanna open up Pandora's Box, and there's just no strong reasons to do so...

[mikeb921]

That's good thinkin, habdala...I decided not to take off my swingarm or rear drive when I paint my frame...don't wanna open up Pandora's Box, and there's just no strong reasons to do so...


One strong reason would be to clean, inspect, and re-grease the swingarm bearings (may have been years since it's been done). Another strong reason would be to check the U-joint ( probably been years since that's been checked also). The swingarm can be painted without removing the driveshaft, just mask it off. I've done a few like that. The rear drive can be cleaned up and inspected easier while off the swingarm too.
Good luck.

Ride Safe
MB

[habdala]

One strong reason would be to clean, inspect, and re-grease the swingarm bearings (may have been years since it's been done). Another strong reason would be to check the U-joint ( probably been years since that's been checked also). The swingarm can be painted without removing the driveshaft, just mask it off. I've done a few like that. The rear drive can be cleaned up and inspected easier while off the swingarm too.
Good luck.

Ride Safe
MB


I did all that without taken the shaft out. I powder coated my frame and that is why I decided against baking the swing arm with the shaft in it, heat can damage metal specially the ring that holds the shaft together, I might be wrong here but better safe than sorry.

[mikeb921]

I did all that without taken the shaft out. I powder coated my frame and that is why I decided against baking the swing arm with the shaft in it, heat can damage metal specially the ring that holds the shaft together, I might be wrong here but better safe than sorry.


Good on you. I saw that you painted it so I'm sure it looks great and you'll feel better knowing you checked everything out.
Ride Safe
MB

[Yarddog]

One strong reason would be to clean, inspect, and re-grease the swingarm bearings (may have been years since it's been done). Another strong reason would be to check the U-joint ( probably been years since that's been checked also). The swingarm can be painted without removing the driveshaft, just mask it off. I've done a few like that. The rear drive can be cleaned up and inspected easier while off the swingarm too.
Good luck.

Ride Safe
MB

Points well taken, thanks!

[habdala]

i had some time off Friday so i did a little work on the bike. The heads are been redone since the exhaust have more play than the intake, I also noted a imperfection on the top the exhaust valve and the washer under the spring on the same valve also had signs of over heat.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Sv9mD2c4wdI/AAAAAAAAMcY/R1Lamuetn4Y/IMG_3821.JPG

Still waiting on a a few parts from Elektrik and the heads will be done in 6 weeks so I decided to start putting the rest of the bike together, I have replaced the bearings on the swing arm, front and rear wheels.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Swcec45fJuI/AAAAAAAAMlo/xfBJ6y5GkVg/s640/IMG_3848.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwdYA0LZGFI/AAAAAAAAMps/gRv3B-jOmiI/s640/IMG_3863.JPG

I installed new oil filter. PITA for the next oil change.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwdYAXUYPvI/AAAAAAAAMpc/EIg-l3HHtpc/s640/IMG_3861.JPG



http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwdYAvFG7NI/AAAAAAAAMpk/M1Bt5VIBKv8/s640/IMG_3862.JPG


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwdYBKqYvVI/AAAAAAAAMp0/BTitvG4uqJk/s640/IMG_3864.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwdYBnde9DI/AAAAAAAAMqE/zNWsdsglb2w/s640/IMG_3866.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwdYCPCFSmI/AAAAAAAAMqQ/NKD2tsR2fTo/s640/IMG_3867.JPG

Rebuild front master cylinder

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su-a1MkaFkI/AAAAAAAAMKw/8S_KW03se_A/s640/IMG_3767.JPG

I got a set of Progressive rear shocks (no springs) 168.00 they are beefier and the springs fit perfect with a minor mod.

[Yarddog]

How come ya didn't paint the headlight bucket? Or did you? Have you ever been worried about carrying all the weight of the bike on the oil pan? Or is that acceptable? I haven't used my motorcycle jack because of that...

[habdala]

How come ya didn't paint the headlight bucket? Or did you? Have you ever been worried about carrying all the weight of the bike on the oil pan? Or is that acceptable? I haven't used my motorcycle jack because of that...


Bucket will be painted in a few days. Weight now is not bad without wheels forks and swing arm, tomorrow I will install the swing arm.

[Yarddog]

How about when it's back together?

[Yarddog]

I notice that the powder coating appears to be EXTREMELY thin, with no filling of imperfections...interesting...also a very matte surface...I'll be using self-etch with two coats of PCL flat black, which will dry to a satin finish...will be interesting to compare...I expect that the paint method will provide some filling of imperfections... on a frame, it doesn't matter a lot...

[habdala]

How about when it's back together?

I will say by Feb will completely done.

[habdala]

I notice that the powder coating appears to be EXTREMELY thin, with no filling of imperfections...interesting...also a very matte surface...I'll be using self-etch with two coats of PCL flat black, which will dry to a satin finish...will be interesting to compare...I expect that the paint method will provide some filling of imperfections... on a frame, it doesn't matter a lot...

Yes thin and easy to scratch, the advantage was to remove and stop the rust. Got any pictures of your project?

[Yarddog]

Yes thin and easy to scratch, the advantage was to remove and stop the rust. Got any pictures of your project?

Only the reference photos that I took while taking it apart...which I have copied yours for the same reason...when I start putting it back together, I might do so, although it's not my habit to photo-document my projects...Not sure whether it's laziness, or whether I've done so many over the years that the only photos that count are the ones that exist in my mind...

BUT...if you're interested, I will certainly do so...and attach them here...this is the thing that concerns me about powder coating, and you've said it yourself...thin and easily scratched...I'm gonna use a conventional painting method, and it won't be thin nor will it be easily scratched... I know what the advantage in terms of a production line that powder coating is, but I'm of the opinion that for something that you and I are doing, the regular painting method is superior... What would probably be better, perhaps ideal (and ungodly expensive!) would be porcelain coating...

None of what I'm saying is intended to be any sort of criticism, only a way to discuss the pros and cons of both methods, and perhaps this may help somebody down the line to make decisions as to whether they would prefer to paint their frame versus powder coating it... I suspect that you might not have the wherewithal to paint your frame, as I have, and it just worked out that a powder coating facility was more convenient, perhaps less expensive, than a paint shop.

I've bantied about the advantages of both methods in this, and other, forums before, and the general concensus has been that for most uses, conventional painting actually is superior than powder coating...on the other hand, for a production line, the quick turnaround time for powder coating seems to work better...That's why your pictures are so very interesting to me, and what you are saying, and what the photos are showing, is that powder coating is maybe not the way to go, in many cases...

I very much appreciate your sharing them with us, and very much appreciate your candor in discussing these things...Now what I'm wondering is whether there is different levels of powder coating, perhaps multiple coats like conventional painting, so as to enhance the surface smoothness...

If you had it to do over again, and if both methods were equally available to you, would you powder coat the frame, or would ya have it painted conventionally?

Thanks for your help, my friend!!!

[habdala]

Only the reference photos that I took while taking it apart...which I have copied yours for the same reason...when I start putting it back together, I might do so, although it's not my habit to photo-document my projects...Not sure whether it's laziness, or whether I've done so many over the years that the only photos that count are the ones that exist in my mind...

BUT...if you're interested, I will certainly do so...and attach them here...this is the thing that concerns me about powder coating, and you've said it yourself...thin and easily scratched...I'm gonna use a conventional painting method, and it won't be thin nor will it be easily scratched... I know what the advantage in terms of a production line that powder coating is, but I'm of the opinion that for something that you and I are doing, the regular painting method is superior... What would probably be better, perhaps ideal (and ungodly expensive!) would be porcelain coating...

None of what I'm saying is intended to be any sort of criticism, only a way to discuss the pros and cons of both methods, and perhaps this may help somebody down the line to make decisions as to whether they would prefer to paint their frame versus powder coating it... I suspect that you might not have the wherewithal to paint your frame, as I have, and it just worked out that a powder coating facility was more convenient, perhaps less expensive, than a paint shop.

I've bantied about the advantages of both methods in this, and other, forums before, and the general concensus has been that for most uses, conventional painting actually is superior than powder coating...on the other hand, for a production line, the quick turnaround time for powder coating seems to work better...That's why your pictures are so very interesting to me, and what you are saying, and what the photos are showing, is that powder coating is maybe not the way to go, in many cases...

I very much appreciate your sharing them with us, and very much appreciate your candor in discussing these things...Now what I'm wondering is whether there is different levels of powder coating, perhaps multiple coats like conventional painting, so as to enhance the surface smoothness...

If you had it to do over again, and if both methods were equally available to you, would you powder coat the frame, or would ya have it painted conventionally?

Thanks for your help, my friend!!!

I'm glad I took many pictures, yesterday when I started putting the bike together I went back to my picture collection (280 and counting) and look where the wires and the rest of the parts go, it pays to get good quality pictures as I was able to zoom in and see if I the spacer or washer was in the right place. One thing I will do next time is wash the engine before tearing it down.

I'm not going to do a show bike, I started this project to bring the bike to a mechanically sound condition, the bike was a bit neglected and need it a lot of things look after before I could ride this bike anywhere and I know that when i'm done, I will have the knowledge to fix or be able to tell what is wrong it.

If I had to do it all over again regarding the paint, I will probably go with regular spray paint and perhaps from a can after I beed blast the frame. I must say that the guys at Figure Engineering did a great job for the price and I have no regrets.


Please fell free to post your pictures here if you want, the more the merrier.

[habdala]

I have one question to an expert in tranny's

I removed the top screw that holds the plate to secure air box covers in place, I been looking at my Clymer manual and shows nothing holding or otherwise, but does it hold anything inside?

Thank you!

[20774]

I have one question to an expert in tranny's

Hmmm...I didn't see a formal question there... :D What was your concern?

[habdala]

Hmmm...I didn't see a formal question there... :D What was your concern?
Right!

Does it hold anything inside the trany?

[20774]

Does it hold anything inside the trany?

Does the '79 R100RS have the clam shell and round air filter? Then, is the bolt #3 in this picture:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0395&mospid=47886&btnr=13_0480&hg=13&fg=20

It is my understanding that bolt just holds the spring down which locks in the air filter cover halves in place. There's another bolt that holds a internal baffle that you don't want to loosen. I've not been inside a tranny and in looking at pictures of trannies that are on the web, I don't see where it is. So, I wouldn't touch any other bolts other than the one above.

[RecycledRS]

This diagram shows the internal baffle (actually a small oil channel that moves oil to the front case bearing on the output shaft). Item #14 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0395&mospid=47886&btnr=23_0249&hg=23&fg=05 If this bolt is loosened the channel can come loose and jam in the gears. Surfice to say this is not good. When I rebuilt my transmission I found the channel bolt to have been overtightened (sptipped) at some time by a PO and the channel was dragging on top of the grears! Thought I took pictures but can't find them now.

[20774]

This diagram shows the internal baffle (actually a small oil channel that moves oil to the front case bearing on the output shaft). Item #14

Thanks! I looked in the fiche before but I wouldn't have thought that was a baffle, but they can take different shapes depending on what they need to do.

[habdala]

Thanks! I looked in the fiche before but I wouldn't have thought that was a baffle, but they can take different shapes depending on what they need to do.

It seemed to long just to hold the CLAMPING SPRING one thing though, I did not hear anything dropping inside.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SwgV7_UXrlI/AAAAAAAAMtA/JrUHRYZrvWg/s640/IMG_35501.jpg

[RecycledRS]

Did you take the bolt right out?

[20774]

I think that bolt is OK to remove...it's the other one, wherever it is, that's the problem one. The clamping spring is not needed for the square airbox. Either that bolt is also removed, or else it's inserted with sealant. Gear oil can seep up through this bolt if not tight enough or sealed properly. Shouldn't need a lot of torque.

[Yarddog]

I took mine out, and ran it around for a month or so like that...no problem...although I think this is a cheesy way to handle a simple a task...woulda preferred a more direct fastening! Opppss...there's my bad side again!

With regard to stripping the paint and using rattle can, I would agree with the stripping part of it...but using rattle can would produce the same problem you have now...a very thin, scratchable finish...would prefer ya to use HVLP equipment...for a frame like this, you can plug a simple, inexpensive, detail gun into your compressor and do a far better job, and if it's the first time you have ever used this equipment, what better time to learn!!! If you already have a compressor, and I suspect you do, then getting set up to spray is probably cheaper than taking your frame to the powder coaters!!! And if you're going for show quality, you can use a primer-surfacer between the conversion coat and final coat to fill the imperfections...

I didn't take quite as many photos, but yours are a lot better than mine, lemme tell ya!

[mikeb921]

http://s379.photobucket.com/albums/oo237/Rideoften/

I'm really enjoying this thread. The above link is to my brothers /5 cheapo resto. He wanted to freshen up his daily rider R50 and had a budget of about $500. If you go to full screen reverse order, you can see the disassembly and reassembly in order. We painted the part of the frame that was most damaged using rustoleum rattle cans. If you only use the first half of the can you can get a half way decent job. We did piston rings, valve job, all seals and gaskets in engine and tranny. Heli-coiled a couple of stripped fasteners and replaced many fasteners with stainless steel. Relaced rear wheel with stainless spokes. I'm sure I'm forgeting something but it was a fun project. I like to do more professional jobs but he had a budget and we stuck to it. All parts came from Hucky's BMW. Habdala, I'm enjoying the photos and Yarddog would love to see your photos as well. The key is, everybody have fun and do the best you can.

Ride Safe
MB

[habdala]

Did you take the bolt right out?


Yes.

[habdala]

http://s379.photobucket.com/albums/oo237/Rideoften/

I'm really enjoying this thread. The above link is to my brothers /5 cheapo resto. He wanted to freshen up his daily rider R50 and had a budget of about $500. If you go to full screen reverse order, you can see the disassembly and reassembly in order. We painted the part of the frame that was most damaged using rustoleum rattle cans. If you only use the first half of the can you can get a half way decent job. We did piston rings, valve job, all seals and gaskets in engine and tranny. Heli-coiled a couple of stripped fasteners and replaced many fasteners with stainless steel. Relaced rear wheel with stainless spokes. I'm sure I'm forgeting something but it was a fun project. I like to do more professional jobs but he had a budget and we stuck to it. All parts came from Hucky's BMW. Habdala, I'm enjoying the photos and Yarddog would love to see your photos as well. The key is, everybody have fun and do the best you can.

Ride Safe
MB

Not bad for 500, I already spend his budget on the brakes alone!

Nice job on the resto

[RecycledRS]

Back to the mystery bolt, if its the oil channel/baffle bolt, it will not tighten up on reinstallation as the bolt goes through an unthreaded hole in the transmission and is held inplace by a threaded bit on the channel/baffle.

[habdala]

Back to the mystery bolt, if its the oil channel/baffle bolt, it will not tighten up on reinstallation as the bolt goes through an unthreaded hole in the transmission and is held inplace by a threaded bit on the channel/baffle.

This one treads on the tranny case.

[habdala]

Little by little the project is coming along and still finding new things to replace or rebuild, the rear main spline is worn out about 50% and I will have to replace it.

Is this something I can do? I want to get this done right but don't want to spend an arm and a leg to do it. Any suggestions will be appreciated.


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SxBzloIJw6I/AAAAAAAAMxU/AId1DoLjBp0/s640/IMG_3897.JPG

Upgraded charging system

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SxFxUAPgKSI/AAAAAAAAMyc/loQEjhIbQlc/s512/IMG_3891.JPG



New starter

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SxFxeHOzHEI/AAAAAAAAMyk/4-wMsrYEbSU/s640/IMG_3882.JPG

[kbasa]

I don't think you can do the final drive yourself, so look for a used one.

[crazydrummerdude]

What kinda starter?

[habdala]

What kinda starter?


Nipponden$$$o by Elektrik.

[jamesdunn]

You have accomplished much in two months!

[habdala]

Rear Master Cylinder

Before

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Su8zOinx49I/AAAAAAAAL-w/fYidcGgWYms/s640/IMG_3686.JPG

After

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SxG8sGMn6wI/AAAAAAAAMzY/jztxj-0k3yQ/s640/IMG_3902.JPG

[Yarddog]

I'm jealous that you've HAD the time to get this far along in 2 months! Had I been left to my own devices, MINE woulda been this far along, but NO! The GF's fence needed rebuilding...the cousin's van needed a strip & paint... WWWAHHHH!

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Looking really good. Everything is so clean. Enjoying this post! :thumb

[habdala]

I don't think you can do the final drive yourself, so look for a used one.

I'm looking around for used ones and they are in the same or worst condition than mine, Huckys sells a spline repair kit for 147. I have taken mine apart and is not that difficult to do but I think I need to remove the satellite gear in order to fit the new spline. I think there is a post here in how is done just can remember who posted.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SxHYa7AVrvI/AAAAAAAAM0Q/wdaH5wURlv0/s576/IMG_3906.JPG

[rbleau]

A local shop has had good fortune having the spline welded up and then teeth recut. I have examined the work and believe it to be a viable solution. Dunno cost. If interested, I will PM you the guy's name and number. Or you might find someone local to do the job.

I used the low mileage (17k or so) rear drive from my 77 RS barn bike, so I got fresh splines, a non-stripped filler plug and a better 33/11 ratio than what I had on my R100S.

[habdala]

A local shop has had good fortune having the spline welded up and then teeth recut. I have examined the work and believe it to be a viable solution. Dunno cost. If interested, I will PM you the guy's name and number. Or you might find someone local to do the job.

I used the low mileage (17k or so) rear drive from my 77 RS barn bike, so I got fresh splines, a non-stripped filler plug and a better 33/11 ratio than what I had on my R100S.


Please do send the info. Questions:

Can I use a drum brake unit?
How can I tell the gear ratio on mine?


Thank you!

[habdala]

Time for brakes calipers and need a few suggestions on what to do and or not while rebuilding the front ATE's and rear Brembo.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Time for brakes calipers and need a few suggestions on what to do and or not while rebuilding the front ATE's and rear Brembo.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Wow, front ATE and rear Brembo? If you can find a pair or Brembos for the front (and fork lowers from an 81-84 RS or RT), you might like the stopping power. If you need good condition handlebar mounted master cylinder, I have one I'll contribute to your efforts. I just helped a neighbor sort though the necessary parts to convert his '78 R100/7 to dual Brembos, if you have any interest.

Other things, bleeding (at least front Brembos, rear could be different--I have a drum) the brakes is not rocket science, but to properly bleed out all the air, the caliper needs to come off the fork leg because the bleeder is not the high point in the mounted position. I put two piece of a paint stir stick between the pads (caliper off the rotor to bleed them. Don't let them hang from the brake lines. You can use ziptied through the mounting holes, etc.

ATE's are a different beast, so if you stick with them...disregard my Brembo blabber.

You may want to consider SpeedBleeders and a MightyVac to bleed them. Makes short work of it.

Stainless (Teflon lined) brake lines make more sense to me, as them 'give' less. My thinking is that they are more rigid than rubber brake lines and give/flex less when the brakes are applied, therefor that energy is transmitted to the caliper pistons. Better stopping power.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I'm looking around for used ones and they are in the same or worst condition than mine, Huckys sells a spline repair kit for 147. I have taken mine apart and is not that difficult to do but I think I need to remove the satellite gear in order to fit the new spline. I think there is a post here in how is done just can remember who posted.


Might want to pick up the phone and speak to Tom Cutter or Ted Porter for advice.

[habdala]

Wow, front ATE and rear Brembo? If you can find a pair or Brembos for the front (and fork lowers from an 81-84 RS or RT), you might like the stopping power. If you need good condition handlebar mounted master cylinder, I have one I'll contribute to your efforts. I just helped a neighbor sort though the necessary parts to convert his '78 R100/7 to dual Brembos, if you have any interest.

Other things, bleeding (at least front Brembos, rear could be different--I have a drum) the brakes is not rocket science, but to properly bleed out all the air, the caliper needs to come off the fork leg because the bleeder is not the high point in the mounted position. I put two piece of a paint stir stick between the pads (caliper off the rotor to bleed them. Don't let them hang from the brake lines. You can use ziptied through the mounting holes, etc.

ATE's are a different beast, so if you stick with them...disregard my Brembo blabber.

You may want to consider SpeedBleeders and a MightyVac to bleed them. Makes short work of it.

Stainless (Teflon lined) brake lines make more sense to me, as them 'give' less. My thinking is that they are more rigid than rubber brake lines and give/flex less when the brakes are applied, therefor that energy is transmitted to the caliper pistons. Better stopping power.

Tony,

I will take you up on that generous MC offer, I was looking into the Brembo upgrade but do I need to change handle bars? right now I have the flat uncomfortable euro style that I will like to change if the RS fairing allows it.

[habdala]

Might want to pick up the phone and speak to Tom Cutter or Ted Porter for advice.

I did get a second opinion from Bob's and Anton and the spline is bad but still have about 30k left on it so I will leave it alone. Anton suggested Hansen's in OR, Bob's does the fix and they say they have a permanent solution to the problem.

[jamesdunn]

Tony,

I will take you up on that generous MC offer, I was looking into the Brembo upgrade but do I need to change handle bars? right now I have the flat uncomfortable euro style that I will like to change if the RS fairing allows it.

You can use a K75S handlebar within the confines of the RS fairing. You'll have to lose the dash pad.
JD

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Tony,

I will take you up on that generous MC offer, I was looking into the Brembo upgrade but do I need to change handle bars? right now I have the flat uncomfortable euro style that I will like to change if the RS fairing allows it.

I'll second the K75S bars on an RS. I don't have an RS, but have a couple friends with them, one with K75S bars and one without. No question the K75S bar feel better and still keep the RS look. The USA high bars (like on my R100) would probably be very out of place on an RS and may interfere with the fairing.

The only think I am not certain of, is the length of the various cables. Certainly, the high bars require longer cables, but I don't think the K75S bar would so you would probably be ok with what you have. With the handlebar mounted master cylinder, you may lose an inch or so of tight turning raduis (parking lot, garage stuff, etc.) but it'd be well worth the effort. You could probably use it on your existing, uncomfortable bars too but now is probably the time to swap bars and get something you can use IMO.

PM me for the master cylinder please.

[habdala]

You can use a K75S handlebar within the confines of the RS fairing. You'll have to lose the dash pad.
JD

Do you know what is the upward gain?

[habdala]

I'll second the K75S bars on an RS. I don't have an RS, but have a couple friends with them, one with K75S bars and one without. No question the K75S bar feel better and still keep the RS look. The USA high bars (like on my R100) would probably be very out of place on an RS and may interfere with the fairing.

The only think I am not certain of, is the length of the various cables. Certainly, the high bars require longer cables, but I don't think the K75S bar would so you would probably be ok with what you have. With the handlebar mounted master cylinder, you may lose an inch or so of tight turning raduis (parking lot, garage stuff, etc.) but it'd be well worth the effort. You could probably use it on your existing, uncomfortable bars too but now is probably the time to swap bars and get something you can use IMO.

PM me for the master cylinder please.


PM sent!

[jforgo]

In order to fit K75S bars on a 1982 RS, I had to replace the left switch assembly - it was too short. The cables were fine.
But on a 1978RS, no problem with anyting on the bars.
go figure!

[Yarddog]

In order to fit K75S bars on a 1982 RS, I had to replace the left switch assembly - it was too short. The cables were fine.
But on a 1978RS, no problem with anyting on the bars.
go figure!

As I am putting the RT fairing on my /7, I had the same problem, but I just soldered in wire extensions...prolly went a little TOO long, but when I put it back together, I'll fix that...

[AnnapolisAirhead]

In order to fit K75S bars on a 1982 RS, I had to replace the left switch assembly - it was too short. The cables were fine.
But on a 1978RS, no problem with anyting on the bars.
go figure!

I made my own harness extension when I put my RT fairing on, its not hard but in retrospect, I might just buy that part of the wiring harness if I were doing again.

On the other hand, I've also given through to looking for an RS fairing and K75S bars for the summer and making all the harness to the headlight, detachables with disposable heat shrink over them. that way I can protect the connections while riding, and its easy to slice off to detach for a fairing switch. In the Winter, I'm liking my tall bars and RT fairing as is.

[Rubytuesday]

Interesting news about K75S bars. I take it they're slightly higher than the standard, euro bars. Are they any wider, at all? I don't mind leaning down to the Euro bars but I've always found them too narrow. There's just not enough leverage there.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Interesting news about K75S bars. I take it they're slightly higher than the standard, euro bars. Are they any wider, at all? I don't mind leaning down to the Euro bars but I've always found them too narrow. There's just not enough leverage there.

Yes, they are a tad wider and provide more leverage. I think this comes at a cost of reduced tight turning radius as the fairing gets hit, but its workable on my friend's RS.

Others may have better info and measurements.

[jamesdunn]

Do you know what is the upward gain?

The part # is32 71 1 453 072 for the K75S bar. To figure the gain you have to measure along the handle bar. Unfortunately I don't know the exact gain, but I am guessing around an inch or so, does not sound like a lot but you'll notice it when you ride. You can modify the dash pad if you want to keep the look original.

[jforgo]

I made my own harness extension when I put my RT fairing on, its not hard but in retrospect, I might just buy that part of the wiring harness if I were doing again.

On the other hand, I've also given through to looking for an RS fairing and K75S bars for the summer and making all the harness to the headlight, detachables with disposable heat shrink over them. that way I can protect the connections while riding, and its easy to slice off to detach for a fairing switch. In the Winter, I'm liking my tall bars and RT fairing as is.

Just pick up an RS. Then, if you take one down to work on, you can ride the other.

[jforgo]

Yes, they are a tad wider and provide more leverage. I think this comes at a cost of reduced tight turning radius as the fairing gets hit, but its workable on my friend's RS.

Others may have better info and measurements.

Both will turn inside the fairing, like they are supposed to. Depending at what angle you set the KS bars to, your knuckles can be whacking the inside of the fairing; as you go higher you are also encountering the slope back of the fairing.

Either one really does not give you a lot of leverage. Riding city streets, or especially any unpaved situation, the RS is not the happiest bike. Open highways, on the other hand, make them sing.

[Bigrider]

I think the R90S bars will work also. They have perhaps a 1 1/2 inch lift and 1 - 1 1/2 inch set back. They are just a tad wider than the RS bars.

Dave H
San Antonio, Tx

[jpberens43639]

Mine were about like yours at 90,000 miles. 1981 R100RS

South East Sales / Milwaukee BMW knows a machine shop near by.
I took it all apart and walked in with just that gear. The shop they sent it too
chopped off the old & welded on a new end and machined it. looked like brand new. Cost about $90.00 five years ago.
130,000 miles plus now and all is well yet.

If Bob's permanent fix is not too expensive, might be the way to go when your ready.

[habdala]

The part # is32 71 1 453 072 for the K75S bar. To figure the gain you have to measure along the handle bar. Unfortunately I don't know the exact gain, but I am guessing around an inch or so, does not sound like a lot but you'll notice it when you ride. You can modify the dash pad if you want to keep the look original.

I think you loose the dash pad if you add the K75s bars.

[habdala]

Mine were about like yours at 90,000 miles. 1981 R100RS

South East Sales / Milwaukee BMW knows a machine shop near by.
I took it all apart and walked in with just that gear. The shop they sent it too
chopped off the old & welded on a new end and machined it. looked like brand new. Cost about $90.00 five years ago.
130,000 miles plus now and all is well yet.

If Bob's permanent fix is not too expensive, might be the way to go when your ready.

275 at bob's if you bring the ring gear. Hucky's has the part but you need to cut the weld and that might a problem in the long run

[jamesdunn]

I think you loose the dash pad if you add the K75s bars.
You do lose it as I previously mentioned (easy way).... or it can be modified if you wish. The R90S bars mentioned by someone else will not work within the confines of the fairing. Your only option is the K75S bar which looks right and works right.

[jforgo]

I think the R90S bars will work also. They have perhaps a 1 1/2 inch lift and 1 - 1 1/2 inch set back. They are just a tad wider than the RS bars.

Dave H
San Antonio, Tx

I have these on my R65. Too wide to turn inside RS fairing. very nice bend for a naked bike, though.

[Bigrider]

I checked my source. The folks above are correct, the 90S bars are too wide. Sorry for the bad info. These bars are nice on bikes without the fairing. I have them on my fairing-less RS

Dave H
San Antonio, Tx

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I was just looking into K75S bars versus standard RS bars on 1981-1984 (although I think even as far back as 1977 are the same). MaxBMW lists 3 different bars available for the RS, one of which looks like the K75S bars more or less. Has anyone seen #2 in this diagram mounted on an RS? I wish they gave dimensions.

Hassan, perhaps these would be a good candidate for your project? Not too far forward, not too far back. I'm think about it to migrate my RT to the RS fairing.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Here are the K75S bars, looks like they are angled back more and have less rise than the ones pictured for an RS.

[Radar41]

I think you loose the dash pad if you add the K75s bars.

Yes, you will be unable to use the dash pad if you switch to the K75S bars, however, the trade off in comfort was well worth it. With my lanky 6'1" body and long arms it was really a good tradeoff. MUCH more comfortable on long runs. Additonally the K75S bars give you some adjustments (up/down) not available with the stock RS bars.

radar:)

[habdala]

I was just looking into K75S bars versus standard RS bars on 1981-1984 (although I think even as far back as 1977 are the same). MaxBMW lists 3 different bars available for the RS, one of which looks like the K75S bars more or less. Has anyone seen #2 in this diagram mounted on an RS? I wish they gave dimensions.

Hassan, perhaps these would be a good candidate for your project? Not too far forward, not too far back. I'm think about it to migrate my RT to the RS fairing.

Yes! #2 in what I want, I have a set coming next week and I will find out if they will work or not. I will keep you posted.

[habdala]

Yes, you will be unable to use the dash pad if you switch to the K75S bars, however, the trade off in comfort was well worth it. With my lanky 6'1" body and long arms it was really a good tradeoff. MUCH more comfortable on long runs. Additonally the K75S bars give you some adjustments (up/down) not available with the stock RS bars.

radar:)


Thank you radar, that is what I'm looking to accomplish, comfort for style. Did you have to replace cables?

[habdala]

Here is a nice picture of what you can fit on the RS, not sure on the front but might work.

http://www.myphoto.com/Scrambler/12021/86149

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I think the center set (chromed ones) are what my friend's RS has. I just measured them, they are 22" across, end-to-end, 9-1/4" on the center piece and 8" from bar-end to the bend. I think these are wider and he has them tilted up, very comfortable.

The issues are that you can only tilt them up so much before the handlebar mounted master cylinder interferes with the tachometer. The brake lever also touches the fairing, so in tight spots, turn radius is increased a big. I think it you had this arrangement with bar backs, it might be ideal.

[habdala]

I think the center set (chromed ones) are what my friend's RS has. I just measured them, they are 22" across, end-to-end, 9-1/4" on the center piece and 8" from bar-end to the bend. I think these are wider and he has them tilted up, very comfortable.

The issues are that you can only tilt them up so much before the handlebar mounted master cylinder interferes with the tachometer. The brake lever also touches the fairing, so in tight spots, turn radius is increased a big. I think it you had this arrangement with bar backs, it might be ideal.


Yes, looking for a set of bar backs now. If anyone was a set in the closet let me know!

[habdala]

What is the best way to clean the cylinders? I heard of soap and water is that correct?

Does anyone has info on how to replace the push-rod tubes?

THNX

[crazydrummerdude]

What is the best way to clean the cylinders? I heard of soap and water is that correct?

What I've done is hone, soap/hot water, reassemble with light oil.

[Radar41]

Thank you radar, that is what I'm looking to accomplish, comfort for style. Did you have to replace cables?

All my cables were long enough, I did double check the routing to make sure there were no "crimps" or binds. So far I have about 5,000 miles on the change and have no regrets, in fact the last long run was a 400 mile day with no cramps in my shoulders.

radar:usa

[habdala]

Between work and waiting for parts I have moved pretty slow in this past couple weeks, project is coming along fine and taking my time to make sure all is put back to where it belongs! Even though I have label all the bags getting the right screw or washer to the same location is close to impossible and find myself going back to ACE to pick up new screws washers and what not to button thins thing up.

It is amazing how simple they are, I also realize that I made the right decision on taking it apart rather than just changing fluids and go. I found that the right cylinder had newer rings, the intake valve had overheated at some point, the front and rear master cylinders needed new seals etc etc.

I received my heads back from the shop today and after checking the seats I found that the right exhaust was leaking so another week or so before I can finish the top ends.

I'm learning a lot and thanks to you guys for your input and wisdom, with out you and this forum I would have not taken the risk and would have payed trough the nose. I apologize for my bad English and I hope to do a restoration soon so i can use the English language correctly.

Pics:

K75 handlebars

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SywuETh00XI/AAAAAAAAM64/TmEsI8iXRKI/s640/IMG_3935.JPG

Rear:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SywuE4YyLHI/AAAAAAAAM7A/J3wcrJb7QYg/s640/IMG_3936.JPG

Jugs cleaned and ready to install:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SywuFRNFPPI/AAAAAAAAM7I/Ksa4PfsbEvM/s640/IMG_3937.JPG

Heads:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SywuGHnrsyI/AAAAAAAAM7Y/a0ZpDFqQE_Y/s640/IMG_3939.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SywuGqhpWvI/AAAAAAAAM7g/N-FxJAHvbHU/s640/IMG_3940.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SywuG3-UoxI/AAAAAAAAM7o/Hdw61yVVWP0/s640/IMG_3942.JPG

The color of money.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/SywuHaby4GI/AAAAAAAAM7w/Z-tZI9LuWWU/s640/IMG_3943.JPG

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Looking goooooood! :thumb

Sorry to hear about the heads. K75 bars look nice.

Were you able to pull away from the snow shovel long enough to make any headway? Got 19" here.

ps. I have no problem understanding your English. If we put together a Mexico ride, just wait until I butcher the Spanish language!!

[habdala]

Just a few more parts! Front brakes still squishy, I thought i got all the air out.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Sz0qJTWUVkI/AAAAAAAANBI/1vjYbVt0a4k/s640/IMG_4013.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Sz0qORmykpI/AAAAAAAANBQ/CFri3EN35iQ/s640/IMG_4014.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Zn_-ykqkxqM/Sz0qRUKGzjI/AAAAAAAANB8/jvDVfzoUxHs/s640/IMG_4019.JPG

Happy New Year!

[AnnapolisAirhead]

You've been a busy man...damn, that's a sharp looking bike!

[RecycledRS]

You do good work habdala. Looks very nice.

[habdala]

You've been a busy man...damn, that's a sharp looking bike!

Tank you Tony, I can't keep those rubber boots in place, I might change for gaiters.

Still looking for the Brembo fork sliders.

[habdala]

You do good work habdala. Looks very nice.

Is been a great project I really enjoyed it.

Thank you!

[PHMarvin]

Tank you Tony, I can't keep those rubber boots in place, I might change for gaiters.

Still looking for the Brembo fork sliders.

Hi,
I can't help you with parts, but when I had my '81 R100RT, 2 '84 R100RS's and '95 R100RT, I put 3 or 4 drops of glue on the boots and glued them to the fairing. It wasn't enough glue so I couldn't remove them if necessary nor enough to destroy the boots while removing them, but it was enough that they stayed in place. I did get tired of replacing fork seals, though, and finally mounted gaiters.

[habdala]

Hi,
I can't help you with parts, but when I had my '81 R100RT, 2 '84 R100RS's and '95 R100RT, I put 3 or 4 drops of glue on the boots and glued them to the fairing. It wasn't enough glue so I couldn't remove them if necessary nor enough to destroy the boots while removing them, but it was enough that they stayed in place. I did get tired of replacing fork seals, though, and finally mounted gaiters.


Thank you Phil,

I think I will go with gaiters too.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Hassan, Bob's sells both 11 and 13 ribbed gators. I went with the 11 ribbed ones and glad I did. They both fit the same length, but the 11's are stretched out just a bit, so plenty of room when turning without any rubbing.

It's an exercise in patience getting the clamps onto the lower, forkslider end. I think I actually invented a few new swear words before the dust had settled.

[jforgo]

Hassan, Bob's sells both 11 and 13 ribbed gators. I went with the 11 ribbed ones and glad I did. They both fit the same length, but the 11's are stretched out just a bit, so plenty of room when turning without any rubbing.

It's an exercise in patience getting the clamps onto the lower, forkslider end. I think I actually invented a few new swear words before the dust had settled.

Yes, it is even more fun when you have a cast ATKstyle fork brace across there!

[jforgo]

Between work and waiting for parts I have moved pretty slow in this past couple weeks, project is coming along fine and taking my time to make sure all is put back to where it belongs! Even though I have label all the bags getting the right screw or washer to the same location is close to impossible and find myself going back to ACE to pick up new screws washers and what not to button thins thing up.

I received my heads back from the shop today and after checking the seats I found that the right exhaust was leaking so another week or so before I can finish the top ends.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

What was your method for checking the seats?
Did they use new BMW valves, or aftermarket?
Seems amazing the shop did not check them first - but at least they are fixing it.

Not sure if you have Lowes there, but they sell a fair assortment of bagged metric hardware. Including metric wave washer, which work so much better than the split style. I have taken to buying bags of especially the wave washers, nuts, and nyloc nuts. Along with other typical screw sizes. This practice has been a huge time saver for me!

[habdala]

What was your method for checking the seats?
Did they use new BMW valves, or aftermarket?
Seems amazing the shop did not check them first - but at least they are fixing it.

Not sure if you have Lowes there, but they sell a fair assortment of bagged metric hardware. Including metric wave washer, which work so much better than the split style. I have taken to buying bags of especially the wave washers, nuts, and nyloc nuts. Along with other typical screw sizes. This practice has been a huge time saver for me!

To check the seats I use Carb cleaner in the chamber.

My ACE hardware store carries far more stuff than our Lowes, this store is well stocked with metric washers, nuts, bolts and my fav, well nuts! I use them on my rice burn machines.

[habdala]

Hassan, Bob's sells both 11 and 13 ribbed gators. I went with the 11 ribbed ones and glad I did. They both fit the same length, but the 11's are stretched out just a bit, so plenty of room when turning without any rubbing.

It's an exercise in patience getting the clamps onto the lower, forkslider end. I think I actually invented a few new swear words before the dust had settled.

I bet! you have to teach me those words once I get my gaiters.

[jforgo]

To check the seats I use Carb cleaner in the chamber.

.

So you just hold the head, rocker side down, put carb cleaner in the valve area, and see if it comes out the other side?

[PHMarvin]

So you just hold the head, rocker side down, put carb cleaner in the valve area, and see if it comes out the other side?

Yes! In the old days, I did it with gasoline, and still would today if I needed to do that check. But carb cleaner seems to work, too. With the valves closed, you don't want any wetness on the rocker side ofthe valves. If it is wet, the head is not ready to be put onto the engine. The valves need to be lapped, at the least.

[jforgo]

Yes! In the old days, I did it with gasoline, and still would today if I needed to do that check. But carb cleaner seems to work, too. With the valves closed, you don't want any wetness on the rocker side ofthe valves. If it is wet, the head is not ready to be put onto the engine. The valves need to be lapped, at the least.

Seems like something a shop should do before allowing work to leave. Although it is always best to check things for yourself, anyway.

[habdala]

So you just hold the head, rocker side down, put carb cleaner in the valve area, and see if it comes out the other side?


What I do is put carb cleaner or gasoline in the chamber area, the chamber is with the carb and exhaust connect to the head, if you see any liquid on the valve seat then you have a leak, this is called the poor man test.

[habdala]

Seems like something a shop should do before allowing work to leave. Although it is always best to check things for yourself, anyway.


Always test or check what a shop does, I learn my lesson many years back when a shop left the rear tire shaft bolt loose, no damage was done but that was the time that made me think twice about bringing the bike back to that shop and double check any work they do.

[Yarddog]

Always test or check what a shop does, I learn my lesson many years back when a shop left the rear tire shaft bolt loose, no damage was done but that was the time that made me think twice about bringing the bike back to that shop and double check any work they do.

When I refreshed my pancone last year, I had a shop remove the primary and reinstall... when I got it up again, I was riding it, and as time went on (we're talking less than a hundred miles) the clutch started slipping, and at the same time, the adjustment moved... turns out that the mechanic either didn't properly tighten the clutch basket bolts, or didn't use LocTite on 'em...or both... Very annoying...I wound up removing each bolt, shooting carb choke cleaner on the threads to clean 'em, and used LocTite 242 on 'em...no problems since...

We shouldn't have to do this sort of thing guys, but it just seems like we gotta supervise the people that we PAY to do our work for us...I hate to be a nosy customer, or an OCD customer, but anymore, that's the onliest way that I make sure things are done right...a lotta times, I KNOW how to do the job, it's just more expeditious, for one reason or another, to have someone do the work... In the case I just outlined, I chose to have a shop do the work rather than buy the special tools, since in 35+ years of Harley ownership, I've never had occasion to use those tools...I can damn well assure ya that the next time I need my primary taken apart, I'll buy those tools my own self and down my own damn work!! And I WON'T buy the tools from that shop!