Transmission slip/missed gear

[eddiepat62]

Hi all - This issue has happened 5 or 6 times on my R1200R - I am looking for ideas, suggestions, solutions. PS - Me being a dumbass is an idea that I have already considered.

When riding mountain/canyon twisties, I will downshift before the turn as needed. Maybe from 4th to 3rd, maybe from 3rd to 2nd.

OCCASIONALLY, I feel the shifter engage, but when I let the clutch out - I am NOT in any gear. Then I am. Suddenly at speed and in a turn.

This is not a good feeling.

Has anyone else experienced this? Rider issue? Transmission? Clutch?

When it happens it's critical NOW.

[SPOKESMAN]

False neutrals. Used to happen maybe once a day on the Japanese bikes I used to ride. Never had it happen on my RT.

I always attributed it to less than perfect shifting technique and not anything more dire. It never got worse over the life span of the affected bikes.

What causes it mechanically? Can it be corrected mechanically? Couldn't tell you.

[PGlaves]

It could be caused by a defective shift forks (plural) if it involves gear changes between more than one set of gears (1st-2nd; 2nd-3rd; 4th-3rd; etc.) or a single shift fork if always the same gears.

But - it is far more likely caused by what I call lazy foot. The transmission requires a long throw on the lever, and a firm deliberate foot. Sometimes adjusting the angle of the shift lever makes all the difference in the world. Sometimes the shifter is loose causing erattic shifts.

First check the lever/linkages. Then make an effort to always shift completely. If the problem persists, see your dealer.

[RoboRider]

I sometimes miss the shift from 1st to 2d and hit neutral on my RT, but it is always my fault coupled with a tranny that takes a good long solid stroke to get past neutral. I never miss a downshift. Certainly the BMW tranny is more work to shift than my Honda CBR600RR, but it's not a problem.

I can't comment on whether you have a mechanical issue, but if you don't, here's what I recommend. The R1200s will run comfortably from 20 mph to 70mph in 2d gear (approx 2k to 7k RPM on the RT). When in the twisties, you can put it in 2d gear and never need to shift. There are VERY few corners that require an entry speed of less than 20 mph, and how often do you exceed 70 mph in aggressive twisties. Occasionally, even on the Dragon, maybe twice, there are some spots where you can hit 3d gear but I always run the Dragon in 2d, the whole way, never dropping below 20 and never exceeding 70. Give it a try.

Robo

[deilenberger]

I'll agree with Paul, and make a few suggestions (since I own an R12R)..

1. Lubricate the shift linkage. There are two Helm joints (ball-socket joints) with felt rings around them. Dribble some motor oil on the felt rings - it will work it's way into the joints. Then look at where the shaft the pedal is attached to goes through the frame - lubricate where it passes through the frame. I've had success doing this with a simple oil can - a few drops of oil at the joint of the shift-lever/frame seems to work fine.

2. Adjust the linkage so the end of the pedal sits a bit higher. That will give you more down on the downshift. You can do this one of several ways: you can adjust the shaft between the helm-joints - loosen both nuts and turn the shaft. If it's made right, turning it one way will move the helm-ends together, the other way apart; remove the pedal from the shaft coming through the frame and rotate it one spline. That's what I did on mine. Worked fine. You must fully remove the bolt to remove the pedal. ; change the lever going into the transmission one spline. Has the same effect as doing the pedal, and the pedal is MUCH easier so I don't suggest doing it this way.

Between the two - I think you'll be quite happy with how the R12R shifts. I am. I try to remember to do the linkage lube at every oil change... since it's an exposed linkage if you ride in a lot of weather it will need lube that frequently.

[Andy VH]

BMW flat twins, until the new 6-speed tranny appeared, do NOT tolerate wimpy shifting. I know, because to this day if I make a wimpy shift, my bike lets me know it. Make your shifts deliberate and firm. Get used to feeling the shift lever reach the end of the shift travel with each shift. On BMW twins, the shifts are more of a firm LIFT or PUSH, but no taps at the gearshift like a Jap bike.

[eddiepat62]

Thanks for the tech AND rider advice.

While winding 2nd up through the entire ride isn't something I will do, I do appreciate the procedural nudges.

[RoboRider]

Hey Eddie,

Keep in mind that I'm not talking about winding up second gear to 7000 RPM and keeping it there. Using the Dragon as a reference, in 2d gear, the bike is going from about 2500 rpm to 7000 rpm over and over: up, down, up, down, etc. There is no harm you will do to your engine, NO HARM, by using 2d gear in this manner.

The boxer engine CRUISES best at a constant 4-5k RPM, too. Don't lug it.

Best,
Rob

[Arkyride]

I was having the same problems on my "09 RT--but figured out that when I downshifted, I was not giving enough clearance to the shifter to return because of new boots that didn't flex with my foot. Now that I am aware of the problem, and try to remember it--it's ok. May adjust the shifter down just a tad if it persists:)