View Full Version : Question on Handlebar risers for 2008 R1200RT
cowboyatheart
09-30-2009, 10:07 PM
Hi. I ordered the handlebar risers from mototechniques. They finally arrived.
Do I need to use any type of lock tight on the bolts? Do I need to torque to a specific amount (ft-lbs)? Or do I just do them up firm.
Any directions, suggestions or cautions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
andrewsi
09-30-2009, 11:57 PM
Do not use loc-tite. In fact, a light coat of Molybdenum anti-seize is what's called for. You should see some of this grey paste on the existing bolts when you undo the handlebars. You can typically buy a small packet of this (Permatex anti-seize) for a buck or two at any auto parts store. Doing the bolts hand-tight and not overdoing it is more than sufficient - it's a very simple and quick job provided you have the right tools handy. I don't have the actual torque value handy, but it's not excessive, it's not like wheel bolts or something. :-)
If I remember correctly, the existing bolts are Torx but the 4 additional ones that come with the risers will be a standard hex key, so (annoyingly) you'll need two different tools to complete the job.
ojhengen
10-01-2009, 10:56 AM
Ditto the torque. Not too tight!! The torque values should be with the instructions you receive. Be careful that you don't lose the rubber O-ring gasket that fits between the handlebar (or bar back) and base. It keeps water out of the cylinder. It is an easy job; just don't strip anything. For my money, it was worthwhile. I took them off once, after using them for nearly two years, and after a few weeks put them back on. They keep me from straining my neck to look up.
Atomicman52
10-01-2009, 12:52 PM
I just installed them, left them on for a couple of weeks, removed them for a couple of days and reinstalled them agan. I'm still up in the air on how much I like them or not!
but the installation is so simple. really nothin' much to add, but yes it is too bad they don't use TORX on the risers. Also the finish really does not match anything on the bike. would be nice if it was the same as the Bars themselves.
Just in case you drop a tool, be sure to cover your tank and so forth with a couple layers of heavy towels. Preferably something long down each side, you don't want to pooch up any surfaces!
AKBeemer
10-01-2009, 12:58 PM
If anyone has a set and decides against using them, then PM me please. I'm in doubt about using them and buying an unwanted used set will save two people some money.
lfranklin
10-02-2009, 10:57 PM
Tell me a bit more about the rubber O ring. I installed mine (Moto Tech's) over a year ago. I did not see or read anything about the O ring. so I did not install it under the risers. I also called Moto Tech to get the torque value ( i can try to find it if someone needs it or just call the co).
Leon Franklin 08 RT
RTRyder
10-03-2009, 08:05 AM
BMW RepRom calls for 19 Nm of torque "Handlebar to fork bridge", that equates to roughly 14 ft/lbs.
Atomicman52
10-03-2009, 07:12 PM
Tell me a bit more about the rubber O ring. I installed mine (Moto Tech's) over a year ago. I did not see or read anything about the O ring. so I did not install it under the risers. I also called Moto Tech to get the torque value ( i can try to find it if someone needs it or just call the co).
Leon Franklin 08 RTthere are rubber -O- rings that sit in the recess where the forks are attached to the triple clamp top plate. (same plate you attach the bar risers to)
they simple sit in the circular recess around the bolt and nut directly under each bar riser (or handle bar if you don't have risers) to help seal out moisture.
As I remember there are 2 , one on each side?
lfranklin
10-03-2009, 11:53 PM
Thank you for the info on the O rings. I will pull my bars and risers to make sure they are in place.
cowboyatheart
10-09-2009, 10:59 PM
Thanks everyone for the advice. I will now get onto doing it.
Any thoughts on what brand of torque wrench is a good one to buy?
cowboyatheart
12-11-2009, 10:56 AM
Do not use loc-tite. In fact, a light coat of Molybdenum anti-seize is what's called for. You should see some of this grey paste on the existing bolts when you undo the handlebars. You can typically buy a small packet of this (Permatex anti-seize) for a buck or two at any auto parts store. Doing the bolts hand-tight and not overdoing it is more than sufficient - it's a very simple and quick job provided you have the right tools handy. I don't have the actual torque value handy, but it's not excessive, it's not like wheel bolts or something. :-)
If I remember correctly, the existing bolts are Torx but the 4 additional ones that come with the risers will be a standard hex key, so (annoyingly) you'll need two different tools to complete the job.
Hi, just getting around to doing this. A winter type of addition. The only local stuff I can get is Permatex Copper Anti-Seize (which has copper flakes in it). Is this okay to use?
andrewsi
12-11-2009, 01:05 PM
Should be fine. This isn't a high-temp application or anything, so exotic formulations aren't really necessary. I think any Permatex anti-seize should do nicely for something as simple as this.
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