R100 changing to an RT

[timrfo]

I have a 1977 R100 I really like but I'd like a lot more wind protection . Does anyone know how big a job that would be to make it into an RT/ and apox. cost? I looked at the Hannigan fairing but I have a a buget and it was a little more than I wanted to spend. Tim

[mutineer]

a nice R100 sells for not much difference than a R100RT, selling the one to buy the other seems like the most cost effective way to get there

[shire2000]

If you keep an eye on Fleabay and other areas, you can quite often pick up a Hannigan for very little $$. Same as for an RT fairing, but quite often you will need to pick up all the parts from more than one person.

As to mouting the RT fairing on your R100. You will need to have your front stem drilled and tapped to acept the top "spider" mount for the fairing. You will need to change a lot of the wiring, get a new ignition switch, different handle bars. May have to change the headlight bucket. And of course paint to match the bike. Then, to accomodate the heavier front end, you really should upgrade the front suspension.

All in all, it is probably a lot cheaper to just sell what you have and buy a nice RT. Save you a bundle and everything is already done.

[Yarddog]

Naw...not that big a deal...because I'm doin' the same exact thang to my '78 R100/7...the holes for the fairing mount are already there, drilled and tapped...use the same exact headlight bucket...there's a blank mount on the headlight that replaces the ignition switch that currently mounts there, saw one on eBay a week ago for ten bucks...if you can't get it there, order it from a BMW source, probably still available...yeah, you gotta extend the wiring to the handlebar switches, but that's easy...I'm using the same handlebars...and I doubt whether I'll have to do anything to the front end, if so, maybe heavier springs or fluid or both, but I'll cross that one when I come to it...I've relocated my ignition switch to a hole I bored in the top of the windshield, but if the fairing you get has the clock/voltmeter mount, there's an ignition switch hole there already...

I bought my bike one day, the very next day the fairing was listed on craigslist for what I thought was a reasonable price...it was rough, but I have the technology to get the job done...if you aren't adept mechanically, yeah, it will be a tough job, but if you know what you're doin', it really ain't brain surgery...

[timrfo]

Thanks for the replies, I'll keep my eyes open for some used stuff. I I kinda hate to trade for another bike ,after I got this one running so good. Tim

[lkchris]

Trading for another bike will not only be easier, it will be cheaper.

[Yarddog]

I might be true that trading for a real RT might be cheaper...possibly...I doubt that this would have been the case in my situation...I paid under $2000 for my R100/7, paid $300 for the fairing, etc, will probably have another couple hundred in this and that...I won't have the RT rear fairing, but that's fine, I don't think it adds anything functional to the bike, my GF loves the comfort of my scooter as is, and the bike just runs like a champ... So if you are patient and take advantage of good deals when they come along, it might be possible to economically convert that bike to an RT...or maybe not...just depends.

[jforgo]

I would first make sure your 1977 actually has the mount with holes welded on the steering stem. These would have started with the RS, for which 1977 was the first year. Not sure these would have been on all frames that early, such as yours. Seems like a major PITA to retrofit that.
later bikes, even my R65, have those mount holes

[Yarddog]

Very simple...drill holes and tap for your fastener of choice...the stem has plenty of meat for that, and it's how BMW did it in the first place...however, be REAL careful how long those bolts are...they don't need to be over a half inch long, the originals are real short...still got a couple in my toolbox...couldn't find 'em when I needed 'em, went out and bought new ones...

[Yarddog]

There are some RT fairing parts on eBay right now...some by a seller name of bmw.viking...there's a complete fairing also, however, in my opinion, it's vastly overpriced...I think you could dern near buy everything new for what that seller wants for it...

[jamesdunn]

Thanks for the replies, I'll keep my eyes open for some used stuff. I I kinda hate to trade for another bike ,after I got this one running so good. Tim
Boy, can I relate to this post. Once you have got your bike just right, it is difficult to sell and contemplate purchasing another bike that may have hidden issues.

[timrfo]

Boy, can I relate to this post. Once you have got your bike just right, it is difficult to sell and contemplate purchasing another bike that may have hidden issues. You said it all thank you.. Tim

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I'm doing exactly what you are contemplating. With all the upgrades, new valve job, electronics, dual plugging, etc. there's no way I'd sell to buy another and think it was cheaper. I know myself too well, any additional ride I get gets a going through, piece by piece.

BTW, I ordered that special plug...only to find that the guy I bought my fairing from had included one in the fairing compartment--so if you want/need one PM me, its yours for cheap.

I think that the first thing to do is verify you have two holes drilled and tapped in the steering head--as was posted before 1977 is about the time they seem to have started that.

My fairing came complete with every little washer, bolt, trim, etc. so I think I got lucky. My Vetter, which has faithfully served me well came off with 6 bolts, two hose clamps and a wiring harness disconnect.

The headlight buckets, I believe are the same but I bought a spare and painted the inside with high gloss epoxy (appliance) paint for better visibility. Also going to install a small LED light with a switch. If you haven't moved your fuses out of the headlight and want to, this would be a good time to do that. My RT fairing came with two slots near the ignition for that--so I can easily replace fuses without going intot he headlight bucket, which will now require removing the front glass lens before you get to the actual headlight. Not a biggie, but just realize that extra protection/airfoil means another layer to strip to get to the goodies in the bucket and some restricted access (ergo the light).

One other thing to consider when sourcing a fairing is that some actually came on bike without crashbars. So if you have and want to keep your crashbars, make sure the holes are in the fairing lowers. If not, drilling could be an exciting deal.

With respect to the wiring harness, there's likely to be some differences as the part numbers are different. My take on that is that replacing the front end portion of the wiring harness on a 30-some year old bike will only extend the life, so I'll fabricate (or probably order) the parts accordingly.

While I am in there, I am adding a flipped-upside down lower triple clamp, sistered up tot he existing one and a CNC machined top clamp.

Keep us posted or PM me if you want to talk on the phone about it.

[Yarddog]

I agree that sacrificing the engine guards is a definite disadvantage...locating and placing the holes for them is very much risky business, so in my case, they are going away...

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I'm making more progress on my R100 to R100RT fairing project. Here are a few things to note (I'll post a web article on the whole process once complete):

Pry the two nylon (white) plugs out of the front of the steering head, vertically stacked. If your bike does NOT have these, make sure you drill and tap to M8x1x12 if you want to use the OEM hexbolts (most sizes I think are M8x1.25x12). If you don't have these holes (pre-1978???) and aren't willing to drill and tab, then this isn't the fairing for you.
Removal of the handlebars, fork nuts (sprung) and steering head nut are necessary because the fork ears need to be removed (they are replaced by the ears on the frame/spider).
Remove the clock and voltmeter from their brackets. These will be mounted in the dashpad immediately below the windscreen. This mean that you'll also need to remove the metal mounting bracket which sits on top of the triple clamp.
If, like my bike, you have the fuses moved outside of the headlight bucket (for easier maintenance), those will be led up to the dashpad as well, and sit between the clock and voltmeter.
I had to remove a badly torn handlebar dashpad that had a switch for auxillary lights. Very hard to get the switch out and I destroyed the pad--it was in rough shape anyway. It also houses the 4-way flasher button (not sure if that was stock or added to my bike).
I decided to service the steeringhead bearings while I have things apart this much
I also decided to install a CNC'd aluminum top clamp in place of the thin OEM one. I bought mine from a very talented precision machinist from the PA Airheads clan. others are around as well.
Cover your front fender. If the nbike is on a lift, strap it down, remove the negative battery cable and leave the wheel OUT of the wheel chock. Turn the wheel to the left, against the stop on the lower triple clamp, before you remove the fork and steeringhead nuts. This will only put pressure against the stop, not twist the forks.


More later....like how to extend the key switch to the center of the dashpad, it is originally on the left side of the headlight with a 27mm (same as swingarm nuts) nut. There is a very fine threaded plug that BMW sells--I have a spare if anyone is interested.

Note: there is no such part that I could find to extend the key switch wires to the dash, so I'll fabricate and heat shrink an auxiliary harness.

I bought a headlight bucket from an RS, but it doesn't have as many holes in it as mine. Its a shame too, because I painted the inside with bright white, high gloss epoxy paint to see better. I planned on putting a switched LED light inside too. If anyone is interested, PM me.

Pics to follow.

[jforgo]

I have an rt which was stripped, then reconverted. there was enough wire on the ignition switch to do the relocate to dash

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I have an rt which was stripped, then reconverted. there was enough wire on the ignition switch to do the relocate to dash

Yeah, I'd guess since it went the otherway around, they likely kept the original RT length. In my case, the bike was a naked R100 initially, then a Vetter Windjammer III fairing added, but the ignition switch remained on the left of the headlight (never lengthened). RT's from the factory had that length built into the wiring harness...which is about $800 I don't want to spend just for those extra 5-6 inches.

[Yarddog]

This isn't an ad for eBay, but there a coupla more pretty complete fairings newly listed there...reasonably priced at the moment, BUT...you know how it goes when folks start bidding early on...could get jacked up into the stratosphere pretty quickly...I think the $1300 one is still listed, but that's a silly price, in my opinion.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I bought a complete fairing (complete with all parts, screws, nuts, frame/spider, washers, clips, etc.) missing only the headlight and the headlight ring for $325 off ibmwr. The guy just didn't want a fairing anymore, paint, windscreen, mirrors and compartment covers all in great shape--I just have to paint it to match. I drove a few hundred miles to pick it up as shipping can be crazy and I didn't want any possible damange to a part not made anymore (e.g. just make an adventure out of it).

If you crawl the usual haunts on the net and are patient, anywhere from 300-800. Its no small task to fit it though. You can find decent deals. $1300 is insane...unless you want mine for that price of course. :stick

UPDATE: There are a few RT fairings listed on ibmr right now including one in Oregon for $425, no cracks or broken tabs.

[criminaldesign]

late on the reply as you found a fairing but what about windshields like national cycle and such...?

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I have the original RT windshield, but will probably crown the project off with a lightly tinted one of these: http://clearviewshields.com/shop/product.php?id=19

[Yarddog]

I agree with ya AA...$1300 IS insane, and I actually thot about contacting that seller and expressing that, but...hey, he can ask what he wants for it...I think it's been posted for a coupla months at least...that's the trouble with eBay anymore... used to be you could get some good deals, not too often anymore... folks get on there DAYS before the auction ends, make bids, and pump up the price...I kinda wonder if those guys aren't ringers, actually...

Back to the subject matter...I agree with you, also, AA, that fitting a fairing really IS no big deal...maybe if one isn't mechanically inclined or doesn't have the right equipment, it could be a biggie, but I kinda assume...and maybe I shouldn't...that anybody asking questions here has the horsepower to get it done... and, of course, the FIRST thing one should buy when deciding to work on any vehicle is the shop manual, and the Hayne's manual actually has some valuable info regarding fairings...

The other thing I suggest for anybody considering installing an RS/RT fairing on their naked bike is to make copies of those photos in the eBay ads, store them in your hard drive or outrider, or both, and use them for reference...very valuable resource...

[AnnapolisAirhead]

The local airhead chapter in my neck of the woods is quite active and I am lucky to have several RT bikes to check out when I get stumped. One has even removed his fairing, had it painted and re-installed.

Clymer's does a pretty good job of depicting the fairing components. I don't have a Haynes though, maybe better?

I think the toughest parts are getting the spider/frame on straight, routing of wiring and lastly, making the proper extensions to those components that don't exist on a naked (e.g. elongating the ignition/key wires, etc.).

I'm planning on mounting the fairing without the storage compartments and riding is for a while to make adjustments. Then, I'm trying to shave 1/4-3/8" of the outter edges of the storage compartments in order to pull the inner edges off the tank yet not so much that water gushes through in the rain. I never liked the way they rub on the tank and have seen more than a few tanks that were stoved in right at that area from the simplest of tip-overs. I'll install dense poly-foam and a piece of the heavy clear plastic that they use on the leading edge of car hoods.

[Yarddog]

Yeah, it's a relatively easy job...never thought about leaving off the storage compartments to save the tank...not real sure why they couldn't have designed in a half inch more clearance...I tried to figure out why the square access hole in the lower part of the fairing that is between the upper center part and the louvered section...what does it access? In my case...nothing anymore...I fiberglassed/filled it closed...

Well, in general, I HATE Clymer's manuals...and have ever since the late sixties, so if they are actually doing something right for once...bully for them, thanks, I'll check that out, might be worth buying the Clymer's for just that reason alone! I've always liked the Haynes manual, and in this case, the Haynes manual really does cover some ground not normally covered in shop manuals...plus it's hardback!

Thanks for the headsup, AA, and the good ideas!

[6220]

I finished mounting an RS fairing on my R80 last summer. Now I have the bike I wanted to buy in 1985! It only took me 11 months and over $2,000 to search out all the parts (several special ordered from Germany), get it painted, assemble the wiring harness the fairing required that the stock bike never had, etc. And a friend sold me the fairing pieces for only $150! Don't underestimate the complexity of this job, I tore my hair over all sorts of problems. I put the Everlast system on my bike faster than I mounted that fairing!

Karen
Phoenix

[AnnapolisAirhead]

... Now I have the bike I wanted to buy in 1985! ... I put the Everlast system on my bike faster than I mounted that fairing!


But you have the bike you want. its worth that alone, in my opinion. I sourced an RT fairing in excellent shape with every little nut and bolt put back where they were prior to the PO removing it. I'd love to see a picture of your R80RS...I met a guy in NC who did one.

To be clear, its no easy task but certainly worth it to me. I'm keeping track of what I've had to do, what I chose to do (service items like forks, gators, etc.) and part numbers I had to order. So far, I am into it for under $500 ($325 of that was for the fairing). I'll make my own harness extensions in the proper wiring colors and gauges. The painting I think will be the biggest expense, so I am considering a repaint of the bike to a color I want. I also have a set of lufty tanks and need them to match too.

More later for anyone interested and I'll post pics or a website. :beer

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Does anyone know that the rectangular rubber access cover on the underbelly of the main fairing is for? It's about 1.25 x 2.25 inches, black rubber slightly off center towards the left side of the bike. Possibly an access plate for the steering dampner? If so, I'd rather have had an access hole for the oil filter. :bang

[jforgo]

Possibly an access plate for the steering dampner? . :bang

bingo!

[Yarddog]

Since I don't have a steering dampner, I simply filled the hole with fiberglass and used kitty hair to build, then regular polyester filler over the top, then primed...

I'm just not finding my fairing project to be difficult at all...to be fair, this ain't my first rodeo in terms of restoration/conversion projects, and I'm very well equipped...and I do my own pro-grade finishing and painting, so that's a help... I thought I'd keep a record of the project, but the only pix taken so far were to help me remember where everything went!!