/6 Front suspension advice

[photorider]

I have an R60/6. I've heard of people using two top plates on their triple trees to stiffen-up the front end. I happen to have an extra one lying around. Is this as simple as just slapping it on there? Any modifications necessary? Lastly, is this worth doing or a waste of time? Thanks in advance.

[ccolwell]

I've never heard of this but it makes sense. I put a billet aluminum top triple clamp on my '84 R100 and it made a big difference. It was much thicker than the stock piece and installing it required shortening the headlight bracket. I'd guess, but don't remember, that something similar would need to be done where the triple clamp attaches to the sterring head.

[vanzen]

I have an R60/6. I've heard of people using two top plates on their triple trees to stiffen-up the front end. I happen to have an extra one lying around. Is this as simple as just slapping it on there? Any modifications necessary? Lastly, is this worth doing or a waste of time? Thanks in advance.

Doubling this plate MAY create an issue
of not having a sufficient mechanical connection (enough thread contact)
between the center nut and the neck stem,
and that between the cap nuts and fork stanchions ...
Beyond this concern,
without being welded or somehow fastened together in a way that effectively doubles the bending moment,
I cannot imagine any significant benefit vs a single plate.
I have NEVER tried this "mod" –
but would suggest further and definitive research before giving it the 'go ahead'.

IMO & Experience,
The stock plate is a good design that efficiently resists any loads that the forks encounter in the real world.
If the Type-247 is ridden and / or braked hard enough –
the fork stanchions and neck-stem area of the frame will flex
and flex significantly
before the upper-tree is stressed beyond it's design capabilities –
so if perceived flexure is an issue in your riding, these areas should be given priority.
Adding a cast or machined upper-tree to a stock bike may have "cool factor"
but will not improve handling one twit.

Placing a second lower 3-tree just above the limits of front wheel travel
in combination with a fork brace at the slider tops,
thus significantly reducing the unsupported length of those spindly stanchions, however ...

Claims of "improved performance" with the installation of a machined "Japanese style" upper tree
... will only be anecdotal evidence.
I welcome anyone who has tested and compared these after-market parts and the stock plate in an objective & scientific manner,
or has subjected the 2 designs to Simulation Modeling and Analysis –
to dispute any of the above statements with their data.
I am wrong often enough such that my feelings won't be hurt !

[DS74BMW]

I was at Re-Pscycle last week, and they have a thicker R60 top clamp they sell, had a local fellow CNC these for them. What I noticed was that the stem area was recessed to maintain same stem thread engagement; i.e., the extra thickness of the clamp was carried on top - no headlight bracket mods needed.

I agree with Vanzen - I don't know if you'd realize any significant difference. I also agree with him about the fact the 36mm stanchions are spindly - I can see mine flex with the sidecar attached. I bought some K100 triples/forks to alleviate that. They are 41.4mm diameter.

My other bike has 44mm stanchions, and I added a CNC-machined fork brace to that, and it made a noticeable dif in the way the bike feels [this bike weighs about30# more than my R60]. I will come up with some sort of fork brace for my K100 forks - I think that is a worth-while addition.